?

Hi Bill,

Hopefully here's some pics you might find interesting.

.177 cal, precharged pneumatic. Get around 55 shots on a 3000 psi fill.

The stock was the most difficult part for me!

Dave

On January 12, 2019 at 5:41 PM "Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io" <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:

?

I'm thinking cut rifling, but button has some advantages, and disadvantages, that differ from those of cut rifling cutters. So I may have to play with both, and see which works better for the things I want to do. I'm thinking something for pistol barrels first, as much for practice and play as anything else. And I'd be delighted to see any photos you want to share!

?

After a 20+ year hiatus, I've recently gotten back into reloading, and casting bullets, and I've wanted to make a, call it a .45acp Magnum for lack of a better description, 1911-style pistol in the .44mag power range. Or an 1896 Mauser in the .30 cal version. Or both. ;)

?

Bill in OKC

?

On Saturday, January 12, 2019, 5:07:45 PM CST, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:

?

?

More than happy to tell you what I know.

Are you trying to do cut or button rifling? Can't really help on either specifically.

I have a hammer forged BSA barrel on my hand rolled PCP rifle.

Except for the barrel blank, scope and some screws it was made by me. Got pics if you're interested, it's kind of cool.

Dave

On January 12, 2019 at 4:00 PM "Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io" <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:

?

I would be interested in hearing more about what you did, and how you went about doing it. I? hope some day to be skilled enough to make a rifling machine, and it looks like what you've done here could be helpful to know.

?

Bill in OKC

?

On Saturday, January 12, 2019, 3:55:28 PM CST, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:

?

?

Hope I can find the pics of part of my never ending project from a few years ago.
Needed to cut 1" pitch on a 4" diameter part 24" long. Here's the kicker, 2" root diameter. Don't remember the angle or radius at the root but you get a sense of the process.
Single point was NG, milling was the only option. 2 pcs. 303 SS and 2 pcs. Delrin. 1 each left hand and right hand.
Not regular screw threads. Feed screws for pleated filter media to glue the ribbons on.
I love a little challenge once in awhile.
Dave

开云体育

Hi Bill,

Hopefully here's some pics you might find interesting.

.177 cal, precharged pneumatic. Get around 55 shots on a 3000 psi fill.

The stock was the most difficult part for me!

Dave

On January 12, 2019 at 5:41 PM "Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io" <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:

?

I'm thinking cut rifling, but button has some advantages, and disadvantages, that differ from those of cut rifling cutters. So I may have to play with both, and see which works better for the things I want to do. I'm thinking something for pistol barrels first, as much for practice and play as anything else. And I'd be delighted to see any photos you want to share!

After a 20+ year hiatus, I've recently gotten back into reloading, and casting bullets, and I've wanted to make a, call it a .45acp Magnum for lack of a better description, 1911-style pistol in the .44mag power range. Or an 1896 Mauser in the .30 cal version. Or both. ;)

Bill in OKC

On Saturday, January 12, 2019, 5:07:45 PM CST, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:

More than happy to tell you what I know.

Are you trying to do cut or button rifling? Can't really help on either specifically.

I have a hammer forged BSA barrel on my hand rolled PCP rifle.

Except for the barrel blank, scope and some screws it was made by me. Got pics if you're interested, it's kind of cool.

Dave

On January 12, 2019 at 4:00 PM "Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io" <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:

?

I would be interested in hearing more about what you did, and how you went about doing it. I? hope some day to be skilled enough to make a rifling machine, and it looks like what you've done here could be helpful to know.

Bill in OKC

On Saturday, January 12, 2019, 3:55:28 PM CST, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:

Hope I can find the pics of part of my never ending project from a few years ago.
Needed to cut 1" pitch on a 4" diameter part 24" long. Here's the kicker, 2" root diameter. Don't remember the angle or radius at the root but you get a sense of the process.
Single point was NG, milling was the only option. 2 pcs. 303 SS and 2 pcs. Delrin. 1 each left hand and right hand.
Not regular screw threads. Feed screws for pleated filter media to glue the ribbons on.
I love a little challenge once in awhile.
Dave

On January 12, 2019 at 5:41 PM "Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io" <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:

?

I'm thinking cut rifling, but button has some advantages, and disadvantages, that differ from those of cut rifling cutters. So I may have to play with both, and see which works better for the things I want to do. I'm thinking something for pistol barrels first, as much for practice and play as anything else. And I'd be delighted to see any photos you want to share!

After a 20+ year hiatus, I've recently gotten back into reloading, and casting bullets, and I've wanted to make a, call it a .45acp Magnum for lack of a better description, 1911-style pistol in the .44mag power range. Or an 1896 Mauser in the .30 cal version. Or both. ;)

Bill in OKC

On Saturday, January 12, 2019, 5:07:45 PM CST, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:

More than happy to tell you what I know.

Are you trying to do cut or button rifling? Can't really help on either specifically.

I have a hammer forged BSA barrel on my hand rolled PCP rifle.

Except for the barrel blank, scope and some screws it was made by me. Got pics if you're interested, it's kind of cool.

Dave

On January 12, 2019 at 4:00 PM "Bill in OKC too via Groups.Io" <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:

?

I would be interested in hearing more about what you did, and how you went about doing it. I? hope some day to be skilled enough to make a rifling machine, and it looks like what you've done here could be helpful to know.

Bill in OKC

On Saturday, January 12, 2019, 3:55:28 PM CST, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:

Hope I can find the pics of part of my never ending project from a few years ago.
Needed to cut 1" pitch on a 4" diameter part 24" long. Here's the kicker, 2" root diameter. Don't remember the angle or radius at the root but you get a sense of the process.
Single point was NG, milling was the only option. 2 pcs. 303 SS and 2 pcs. Delrin. 1 each left hand and right hand.
Not regular screw threads. Feed screws for pleated filter media to glue the ribbons on.
I love a little challenge once in awhile.
Dave

?

…

?

I'm guessing the oil loss differential from the front to back bearings has to do with the metal dust caps sealing better on one end.

I'm curious if other's oil cups are empty on the spindle each time they use it?
Thanks,
Jody

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Ken Harrington
Sent: 27 January 2019 07:46 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] new guy - old 618

?

Hay Carvel, thank you for those little snipets "Thumbs up!"

Ken H in AZ

On Jan 22, 2019, at 1:26 PM, Jay Greer <redwitch1@...
<mailto:redwitch1@...>> wrote:

Welcome to our group Don! ?You came to the right place. ?Is your 618
equipped with roller bearings or babbet bearings?
…

Fair Winds,
Jay Greer

?

Thanks for the warm welcome.

Here are a couple photos of their current condition.
The Atlas is complete and well oiled.
The Sears is covered in saw dust as it had been sitting in a wood shop
for years. There is no id plate, neither on the end nor the back. It is
complete except for a motor.
Both are sitting covered as I try to convert a 50x6 room along the front
of my house from a greenhouse to shop space.

Don

?

The last few times I've used the lathe, I put oil in the spindle cups and each have a flat piece of felt as? a wick laid in there.? Every time I put oil in them, the back oil cup is empty and the front cup is still practically full. It is probably the sealing of the metal caps that cover the front and backside of the? Timken Brgs.
Should this concern me?

I'll try taking the wick out of the front and see if that speeds up the oil usage but the back seems to be emptying too fast IMO.

When I rebuilt it I followed the procedures for setting the spindle and I seem to remember? the spindle should have about a 0.001 or so of play when cold.
I'm getting over 0.001, maybe 0.001-0.002 when i pull sideways on the chuck.?
Does this seem OK?

My work is coming out nice and I think the force I'm putting on the chuck to get that deflection is higher than a cutting force on most stuff.
Just checking to see if I need to adjust something or if anybody has had similar situations.
Thanks,
Jody

I have one of those in my 53 Chevy Advance Design truck. ? A marvel of
Rube Goldberg style engineering. ? There is another intermediate style
of shell bearing as used on my 47 Allis Chalmers tractor. ?It has a
very thick babbitt layer. ?You have to shim them. As they wear you
remove shims.

??? ??? True but not the old Chevrolet "Splash and Hope" rod bearings! Pressure feed to them came only with the 235 CID "Powerglide" motor in the 50's.?? Bill in Boulder CO USA

On 1/26/19 2:42 PM, Dave Matticks wrote:

Automotive and aircraft plain bearings also have pressurized lubrication.?

Dave?

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

-------- Original message --------

From: Bill Williams <BWMSBLDR1@...>

Date: 1/26/19 13:49 (GMT-06:00)

To: [email protected]

Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Welcome to [email protected]

Robert, you pose a very interesting question here. Other than
basic conservationism on the part of customers and producers I do not
see why! But then the basic design of our lathes was done in an era when
Chevrolet still had poured babbitt connecting rod bearings! This would
be a thought for upgrading an older poured babbitt headstock with a
larger spindle, bigger through hole and trimetal insert bearings! Bill
in Boulder

On 1/26/19 11:57 AM, Robert Downs via Groups.Io wrote:

They are similar to the bearings used in most automotive and aircraft
engines except that most of those built since sometime between 1900
and 1920 have replaceable steel backed bearing halves.? Why Atlas,
South Bend and many other makers didn’t do that, I don’t know.

Yup.

My patents had one of each.

Leon Robinson ?? K5JLR

They are similar to the bearings used in most automotive and aircraft
engines except that most of those built since sometime between 1900
and 1920 have replaceable steel backed bearing halves.? Why Atlas,
South Bend and many other makers didn’t do that, I don’t know.

Automotive and aircraft plain bearings also have pressurized lubrication.?

Dave?

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

-------- Original message --------

From: Bill Williams <BWMSBLDR1@...>

Date: 1/26/19 13:49 (GMT-06:00)

To: [email protected]

Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Welcome to [email protected]

Robert, you pose a very interesting question here. Other than
basic conservationism on the part of customers and producers I do not
see why! But then the basic design of our lathes was done in an era when
Chevrolet still had poured babbitt connecting rod bearings! This would
be a thought for upgrading an older poured babbitt headstock with a
larger spindle, bigger through hole and trimetal insert bearings! Bill
in Boulder

On 1/26/19 11:57 AM, Robert Downs via Groups.Io wrote:

They are similar to the bearings used in most automotive and aircraft
engines except that most of those built since sometime between 1900
and 1920 have replaceable steel backed bearing halves.? Why Atlas,
South Bend and many other makers didn’t do that, I don’t know.

They are similar to the bearings used in most automotive and aircraft
engines except that most of those built since sometime between 1900
and 1920 have replaceable steel backed bearing halves.? Why Atlas,
South Bend and many other makers didn’t do that, I don’t know.

?

On 01/22/2019 06:14 PM, Don Newbold wrote:

Jay,

How can one tell the bearing type without any disassembly?

Look at the pic Brokenwrench just sent. Note that the
bearing caps have vertical bolts just either side of the oil
cup. That is the cap of a sleeve bearing. If the part with
the oil cup has no bolts and is just a smooth, continuous
part of the casting, that is the place where a Timken outer
race is seated.

Also, how can one determine the machine's age or
production year?

Roughly by serial number, or some machines have a date
scribed into the original Timken bearing races. These are
likely the dates the bearings were received at the Atlas
factory, not the date the lathe was assembled. We have a
serial # to date database somewhere on this site, but not
sure where it is since the move.

Jon

They are similar to the bearings used in most automotive and aircraft
engines except that most of those built since sometime between 1900
and 1920 have replaceable steel backed bearing halves.? Why Atlas,
South Bend and many other makers didn’t do that, I don’t know.

?

?

--

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mikehostalek via Groups.Io
Sent: 25 January 2019 10:19 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] new guy - old 618

?

Interesting. I knew about the oil recommendation changing, I never knew they were putting timkens in them as early as 1937. I wonder now if the timkens were sold as a high speed option, or if they were having trouble figuring out which way to go.