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Re: Dial Thumb Screws

 

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On 01/21/2019 09:57 AM, Jody wrote:
I think so too.? I may have to make it a little more low profile than the first one and make sure I get the threaded length right.


You could also get some flat head screws and put a little counterbore in the bracket.? That should get the screws recessed out of the way.

Jon


Re: Dial Thumb Screws

 

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I think so too.? I may have to make it a little more low profile than the first one and make sure I get the threaded length right.

Although if I ever go to a larger dial, I will to make fasteners flush on the end bearing plate.
Jody


-------- Original message --------
From: Andrei <calciu1@...>
Date: 1/21/19 7:23 AM (GMT-06:00)
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Dial Thumb Screws

Option 1 sounds the most logical choice

Get


From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Jody <jp4lsu@...>
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2019 8:20:46 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Dial Thumb Screws
?
So I didn't adhere to the old adage of measure twice cut once.? Actually I didn't even measure in one instance.

I had some 1/2" bar left over from another project I did for a guy, which was some brass electrical connectors for a 1929 Chrysler.? Little bitty knit picky bits.

With extra brass, I decided i'm done with the little set screws on the dials and thought I'd make a thumb screw for the cross slide and compound.? I measured what a good size would be for the cross slide and made 2 of them.? I didn't even look and measure if it would work on the compound, since they are similar.

The cross slide screw came out great and when I put on the thumb screw on the compound the large OD thumb portion contacts the OEM fastener head that holds the end cap for the thrust bearing.? A sample pic is attached. It's not my part but it is the same screw driver head as mine.

I'm thinking? of a couple options.

1)? Trim the length of the thumb screw and maybe even the thickness of the thumb portion so that it will sit low enough to get by the raised screw head of the fastener holding the bearing end plate on the compound.?
2)? Take the bearing plate off and counterbore it so that the fastener head sits flush.? The chrome is gone, it is now powder coated.

I'm pretty sure #1 will work.? I need to get back out there and measure.? Thinking about this i may actually trim the length of the cross slide thumb screw to get it closer to the dial.? It sits proud a few threads.

Just curious what you guys thought or to see what you guys had or if you had another option.?
Thanks,
Jody


Re: Dial Thumb Screws

 

开云体育

Option 1 sounds the most logical choice

Get


From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Jody <jp4lsu@...>
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2019 8:20:46 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Dial Thumb Screws
?
So I didn't adhere to the old adage of measure twice cut once.? Actually I didn't even measure in one instance.

I had some 1/2" bar left over from another project I did for a guy, which was some brass electrical connectors for a 1929 Chrysler.? Little bitty knit picky bits.

With extra brass, I decided i'm done with the little set screws on the dials and thought I'd make a thumb screw for the cross slide and compound.? I measured what a good size would be for the cross slide and made 2 of them.? I didn't even look and measure if it would work on the compound, since they are similar.

The cross slide screw came out great and when I put on the thumb screw on the compound the large OD thumb portion contacts the OEM fastener head that holds the end cap for the thrust bearing.? A sample pic is attached. It's not my part but it is the same screw driver head as mine.

I'm thinking? of a couple options.

1)? Trim the length of the thumb screw and maybe even the thickness of the thumb portion so that it will sit low enough to get by the raised screw head of the fastener holding the bearing end plate on the compound.?
2)? Take the bearing plate off and counterbore it so that the fastener head sits flush.? The chrome is gone, it is now powder coated.

I'm pretty sure #1 will work.? I need to get back out there and measure.? Thinking about this i may actually trim the length of the cross slide thumb screw to get it closer to the dial.? It sits proud a few threads.

Just curious what you guys thought or to see what you guys had or if you had another option.?
Thanks,
Jody


Dial Thumb Screws

 

So I didn't adhere to the old adage of measure twice cut once.? Actually I didn't even measure in one instance.

I had some 1/2" bar left over from another project I did for a guy, which was some brass electrical connectors for a 1929 Chrysler.? Little bitty knit picky bits.

With extra brass, I decided i'm done with the little set screws on the dials and thought I'd make a thumb screw for the cross slide and compound.? I measured what a good size would be for the cross slide and made 2 of them.? I didn't even look and measure if it would work on the compound, since they are similar.

The cross slide screw came out great and when I put on the thumb screw on the compound the large OD thumb portion contacts the OEM fastener head that holds the end cap for the thrust bearing.? A sample pic is attached. It's not my part but it is the same screw driver head as mine.

I'm thinking? of a couple options.

1)? Trim the length of the thumb screw and maybe even the thickness of the thumb portion so that it will sit low enough to get by the raised screw head of the fastener holding the bearing end plate on the compound.?
2)? Take the bearing plate off and counterbore it so that the fastener head sits flush.? The chrome is gone, it is now powder coated.

I'm pretty sure #1 will work.? I need to get back out there and measure.? Thinking about this i may actually trim the length of the cross slide thumb screw to get it closer to the dial.? It sits proud a few threads.

Just curious what you guys thought or to see what you guys had or if you had another option.?
Thanks,
Jody


Re: Little blast from the past

 

Nice pic.? What was that shaft for?
Were you measuring the OD or what?
"Inquiring minds want to know".
-Jody


Re: Craftsman 113.196591 motor

 

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Sounds like a bad capacitor

Get


From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of mike allen <animal@...>
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2019 8:40:13 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Craftsman 113.196591 motor
?

??? ???? Tks Dan , I registered but havn't been cleared to access yet , but

My call to my bud lookin for the motor terminal cover plate prompted him to clean out his tool box & a phone call this am with a "I found it "?

so I have it strapped as the cover says , but it has a hard time starting I can move the bent some & it will start . it does not feel hot when running , think I have a bad start cap ?

tks

animal

On 1/19/2019 6:30 PM, Dan and Marlene Coleman wrote:

Check VintageMachinery.com or OWWM.org (they have an electrical section).

?

Dan Coleman


Re: Craftsman 113.196591 motor

 

开云体育

??? ???? Tks Dan , I registered but havn't been cleared to access yet , but

My call to my bud lookin for the motor terminal cover plate prompted him to clean out his tool box & a phone call this am with a "I found it "?

so I have it strapped as the cover says , but it has a hard time starting I can move the bent some & it will start . it does not feel hot when running , think I have a bad start cap ?

tks

animal

On 1/19/2019 6:30 PM, Dan and Marlene Coleman wrote:

Check VintageMachinery.com or OWWM.org (they have an electrical section).

?

Dan Coleman


Re: Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

 

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Right.? The steady rest (at least in the smaller sizes) has three adjustable jaws @ 120 degrees.? The follow (or follower) rest has two jaws @ 90 degrees, one at TDC and one 90 degrees to that one on the back side of the work piece, opposite the cutter.? But it does, as you say, move with the cutter.

?

The two steady rests illustrate the two common ways of making a steady rest.

?

Robert Downs

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of mike allen
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2019 18:36
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

?

those are both steady rest's , they both clamp to the bed/ways
of the lathe & stay in the same place until you unbolt them & move them
. a follower rest would mount on the saddle & move up & down the length
of the bed along with the saddle keeping support pretty much with the
tool bit

??? ??? animal

On 1/20/2019 3:56 PM, c.plucker Plucker wrote:

Am I wrong in saying the larger closed item is a steady rest while the
open one is a follower rest. The follower rest moves in combination
with and stays close to the cutting tool as it moves along the
workpiece. I think this is correct
-Dave


Re: Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

 

those are both steady rest's , they both clamp to the bed/ways
of the lathe & stay in the same place until you unbolt them & move them
. a follower rest would mount on the saddle & move up & down the length
of the bed along with the saddle keeping support pretty much with the
tool bit

??? ??? animal


On 1/20/2019 3:56 PM, c.plucker Plucker wrote:
Am I wrong in saying the larger closed item is a steady rest while the
open one is a follower rest. The follower rest moves in combination
with and stays close to the cutting tool as it moves along the
workpiece. I think this is correct
-Dave


Re: Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

 

开云体育

Am I wrong in saying the larger closed item is a steady rest while the open one is a follower rest. The follower rest moves in combination with and stays close to the cutting tool as it moves along the workpiece. I think this is correct?
-Dave


On Jan 20, 2019, at 4:31 PM, Robert Downs via Groups.Io <wa5cab@...> wrote:

I agree.? Besides being probably a little stiffer, the “B” version does not require disturbing your top jaw setting in order to remove or install the part that is being supported.

?

Robert Downs

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Guenther Paul
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2019 12:02
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

?

The steady rest in the first Pic. is much better when you remove the work piece. I personally prefer the one in the first pic. it has a closed support

?

GP

?

?

On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 11:35:46 AM EST, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:

?

?

I'd stick with the "B"

Dave?

?

?

?

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

?

-------- Original message --------

From: "lbelna@... via Groups.Io" <lbelna@...>

Date: 1/20/19 10:15 (GMT-06:00)

Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

?

Hi,
? ?I have a 10 Atlas QC42 that came with a 10-326 steady rest and I recently aquired a 10-326B steady rest with some other parts I bought.? I did not realize Atlas made 2 options.? I only plan to keep one of them and the 10-326 B seems to be more robust and I believe would make removing and installing parts easier.? Aside from these differences, are there any advantages of one over the other?? (I have attached pics of each)

I appreciate your input,
Thanks,
Larry


Re: Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

 

Ok Robert
I dont pay to much attention to model number
GP


On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 6:13:53 PM EST, Robert Downs via Groups.Io <wa5cab@...> wrote:


GP,

?

No, I was agreeing with you.? Go back and read the part numbers.? The OP showed the later “B” version in his first photograph and the earlier or original version second.? The later version has a “B” suffix to the part number of the base or bottom casting. ?Which Larry naturally took to be the model number.? So when I said the “B” version was the better of the two, I meant the “B” suffix version, not the second photograph.? Or in other words, I agreed with you.

?

Actually (and I should have remembered this in the first place, as many times as I have explained it to someone), the model number of the later 10” steady rest is 10-325-A.? 10-326B is the casting part number and the finish machined part number of the lower part of the steady rest body (the part that the number is cast into).? The only thing AFAIK that Atlas ever put an actual model number on was a nameplate.

?

Anyway, keep the one in the left hand photo.

?

Robert Downs

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Guenther Paul
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2019 15:42
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

?

Unit A you flip the top back, it will not change the top setting

?

GP

?

?

On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 4:32:03 PM EST, Robert Downs via Groups.Io <wa5cab@...> wrote:

?

?

I agree.? Besides being probably a little stiffer, the “B” version does not require disturbing your top jaw setting in order to remove or install the part that is being supported.

?

Robert Downs

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Guenther Paul
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2019 12:02
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

?

The steady rest in the first Pic. is much better when you remove the work piece. I personally prefer the one in the first pic. it has a closed support

?

GP

?

?

On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 11:35:46 AM EST, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:

?

?

I'd stick with the "B"

Dave?

?

?

?

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

?

-------- Original message --------

From: "lbelna@... via Groups.Io" <lbelna@...>

Date: 1/20/19 10:15 (GMT-06:00)

Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

?

Hi,
? ?I have a 10 Atlas QC42 that came with a 10-326 steady rest and I recently aquired a 10-326B steady rest with some other parts I bought.? I did not realize Atlas made 2 options.? I only plan to keep one of them and the 10-326 B seems to be more robust and I believe would make removing and installing parts easier.? Aside from these differences, are there any advantages of one over the other?? (I have attached pics of each)

I appreciate your input,
Thanks,
Larry


Re: Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

 

开云体育

GP,

?

No, I was agreeing with you.? Go back and read the part numbers.? The OP showed the later “B” version in his first photograph and the earlier or original version second.? The later version has a “B” suffix to the part number of the base or bottom casting. ?Which Larry naturally took to be the model number.? So when I said the “B” version was the better of the two, I meant the “B” suffix version, not the second photograph.? Or in other words, I agreed with you.

?

Actually (and I should have remembered this in the first place, as many times as I have explained it to someone), the model number of the later 10” steady rest is 10-325-A.? 10-326B is the casting part number and the finish machined part number of the lower part of the steady rest body (the part that the number is cast into).? The only thing AFAIK that Atlas ever put an actual model number on was a nameplate.

?

Anyway, keep the one in the left hand photo.

?

Robert Downs

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Guenther Paul
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2019 15:42
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

?

Unit A you flip the top back, it will not change the top setting

?

GP

?

?

On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 4:32:03 PM EST, Robert Downs via Groups.Io <wa5cab@...> wrote:

?

?

I agree.? Besides being probably a little stiffer, the “B” version does not require disturbing your top jaw setting in order to remove or install the part that is being supported.

?

Robert Downs

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Guenther Paul
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2019 12:02
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

?

The steady rest in the first Pic. is much better when you remove the work piece. I personally prefer the one in the first pic. it has a closed support

?

GP

?

?

On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 11:35:46 AM EST, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:

?

?

I'd stick with the "B"

Dave?

?

?

?

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

?

-------- Original message --------

From: "lbelna@... via Groups.Io" <lbelna@...>

Date: 1/20/19 10:15 (GMT-06:00)

Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

?

Hi,
? ?I have a 10 Atlas QC42 that came with a 10-326 steady rest and I recently aquired a 10-326B steady rest with some other parts I bought.? I did not realize Atlas made 2 options.? I only plan to keep one of them and the 10-326 B seems to be more robust and I believe would make removing and installing parts easier.? Aside from these differences, are there any advantages of one over the other?? (I have attached pics of each)

I appreciate your input,
Thanks,
Larry


Re: Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

 

Unit A you flip the top back, it will not change the top setting

GP


On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 4:32:03 PM EST, Robert Downs via Groups.Io <wa5cab@...> wrote:


I agree.? Besides being probably a little stiffer, the “B” version does not require disturbing your top jaw setting in order to remove or install the part that is being supported.

?

Robert Downs

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Guenther Paul
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2019 12:02
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

?

The steady rest in the first Pic. is much better when you remove the work piece. I personally prefer the one in the first pic. it has a closed support

?

GP

?

?

On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 11:35:46 AM EST, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:

?

?

I'd stick with the "B"

Dave?

?

?

?

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

?

-------- Original message --------

From: "lbelna@... via Groups.Io" <lbelna@...>

Date: 1/20/19 10:15 (GMT-06:00)

Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

?

Hi,
? ?I have a 10 Atlas QC42 that came with a 10-326 steady rest and I recently aquired a 10-326B steady rest with some other parts I bought.? I did not realize Atlas made 2 options.? I only plan to keep one of them and the 10-326 B seems to be more robust and I believe would make removing and installing parts easier.? Aside from these differences, are there any advantages of one over the other?? (I have attached pics of each)

I appreciate your input,
Thanks,
Larry


Re: Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

 

开云体育

I agree.? Besides being probably a little stiffer, the “B” version does not require disturbing your top jaw setting in order to remove or install the part that is being supported.

?

Robert Downs

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Guenther Paul
Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2019 12:02
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

?

The steady rest in the first Pic. is much better when you remove the work piece. I personally prefer the one in the first pic. it has a closed support

?

GP

?

?

On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 11:35:46 AM EST, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:

?

?

I'd stick with the "B"

Dave?

?

?

?

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

?

-------- Original message --------

From: "lbelna@... via Groups.Io" <lbelna@...>

Date: 1/20/19 10:15 (GMT-06:00)

Subject: [atlas-craftsman IO] Atlas 10" Lathe Steady Rest Question

?

Hi,
? ?I have a 10 Atlas QC42 that came with a 10-326 steady rest and I recently aquired a 10-326B steady rest with some other parts I bought.? I did not realize Atlas made 2 options.? I only plan to keep one of them and the 10-326 B seems to be more robust and I believe would make removing and installing parts easier.? Aside from these differences, are there any advantages of one over the other?? (I have attached pics of each)

I appreciate your input,
Thanks,
Larry


Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish

 

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Not the sacrificial shaft either.?
Need to get rid of the boogers before doing anything besides grinding.?
A very small diameter change has a very large impact on gage line with any self holding taper so be careful whatever you do.
Dave?


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

开云体育

-------- Original message --------
From: Dave Matticks <dpm100@...>
Date: 1/20/19 14:41 (GMT-06:00)
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish

I didn't say anything about "cover" compound. Only Clover as a brand name of lapping compound, available in many flavors.
?Sorry!
Dave?



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

-------- Original message --------
From: Ken Harrington <dreamcrafters@...>
Date: 1/20/19 14:31 (GMT-06:00)
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish

Dave M said:
Following with a finish reamer or a sacrificial 3MT shaft with Cover compound would then help.

Ken H said"
"curious what you mean when you refer to "Cover compound" "my dad had something called "Clover compound" for lapping in parts"

Dave M said:
"Clover is a brand name for lapping compound".



OK, I referenced that in my post, so what is the "COVER COMPOUND" that you were referring to and how is it used? Not trying to be a pest, just want to know how others work and solve problems. That is the main reason I come here. I had never heard of "cover compound" and was unable to find any information or other references on "cover compound". So it still remains a mystery to me and possibly others.


Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish

 

Ken?
This compound that was mentioned is used for laping engine valves i have some out on the shop it has 2 diverant grits in the can. The idea is not good the compound will not remove big nicks. I would just use a tool post grinder and be done with it

GP


On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 3:33:32 PM EST, Ken Harrington <dreamcrafters@...> wrote:


[Edited Message Follows]

Dave M said:
Following with a finish reamer or a sacrificial 3MT shaft with Cover compound would then help.

Ken H said"
"curious what you mean when you refer to "Cover compound" "my dad had something called "Clover compound" for lapping in parts"

Dave M said:
"Clover is a brand name for lapping compound".



OK, I referenced that in my post, so what is the "COVER COMPOUND" that you were referring to and how is it used? Not trying to be a pest, just want to know how others work and solve problems. That is the main reason I come here. I had never heard of "cover compound" and was unable to find any information or other references on "cover compound". So it still remains a mystery to me and possibly others.

Ken H in AZ


Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish

 

开云体育

I didn't say anything about "cover" compound. Only Clover as a brand name of lapping compound, available in many flavors.
?Sorry!
Dave?



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

-------- Original message --------
From: Ken Harrington <dreamcrafters@...>
Date: 1/20/19 14:31 (GMT-06:00)
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish

Dave M said:
Following with a finish reamer or a sacrificial 3MT shaft with Cover compound would then help.

Ken H said"
"curious what you mean when you refer to "Cover compound" "my dad had something called "Clover compound" for lapping in parts"

Dave M said:
"Clover is a brand name for lapping compound".



OK, I referenced that in my post, so what is the "COVER COMPOUND" that you were referring to and how is it used? Not trying to be a pest, just want to know how others work and solve problems. That is the main reason I come here. I had never heard of "cover compound" and was unable to find any information or other references on "cover compound". So it still remains a mystery to me and possibly others.


Re: Craftsman Commercial Morse Taper Spindle Finish

 
Edited

Dave M said:
Following with a finish reamer or a sacrificial 3MT shaft with Cover compound would then help.

Ken H said"
"curious what you mean when you refer to "Cover compound" "my dad had something called "Clover compound" for lapping in parts"

Dave M said:
"Clover is a brand name for lapping compound".



OK, I referenced that in my post, so what is the "COVER COMPOUND" that you were referring to and how is it used? Not trying to be a pest, just want to know how others work and solve problems. That is the main reason I come here. I had never heard of "cover compound" and was unable to find any information or other references on "cover compound". So it still remains a mystery to me and possibly others.

Ken H in AZ


Little blast from the past

 

This is from maybe 1976, I'm older now with less hair.
Won't fit an Atlas though!
Dave?


Re: Carriage Stop and Indicator

 

Bill, I think I might of had a problem with TouchDRO but Yuri jumped right in and solved the problem.
Their forum also is very helpful.
Of course I am always here or email rhulslander gmail

I bought my iGauging DROs off ebay.

Ralph


On Sun, Jan 20, 2019 at 12:57 PM Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...> wrote:
Jody
Yes a indicator in the front of the carriage is not good if a hot chip hits the lens of the indicator it will burn it, the lenses are plastic

GP


On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 12:11:25 PM EST, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:


GP,
Let me know, did a little looking this morning too.
Found a 36" for around $77.00 shipped.?
I'd be using this if I could read it somewhere besides at work!
Thanks,?
Dave?



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

-------- Original message --------
From: Guenther Paul <paulguenter@...>
Date: 1/20/19 08:10 (GMT-06:00)
Subject: Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] Carriage Stop and Indicator

I have I-Gageing DRO's on a small table top mill they are fine for what they cost. I bought them from Tool-doc in Wisconsin he had the lowest price at the time. I e-mailed him if he still sells them??

GP


On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 8:47:52 AM EST, Bill Buckalew via Groups.Io <bill70j=[email protected]> wrote:


Dave:

Thanks for the comments.

At the start of travel, the X scale protrudes 6" from the back edge of the way - at the end it protrudes just over 12".

I just checked my receipts and find that the set-up I have on my X is the 6" Igaging scale, not the 12" that I put in my prior message.?
So you are right.? My mistake!

Good luck on getting your DRO installed!

Bill

On Sunday, January 20, 2019, 4:46:23 AM PST, Dave Matticks <dpm100@...> wrote:


Bill,

Nice looking lathe. Bench looks very cool and nice job on the DRO installation as well!


How far does the scale on the cross slide protrude to the rear? I ask because I have the factory lamp that could interfere if the scale stuck out too far, didn't do any serious measuring or thinking about it yet though.

Seems like I could almost get by with a 6" scale, there's just over 6" of travel from the points where the nut falls off the screw. Depends if there's any overtravel or maybe cut off a longer scale.


I have a 12X36 cabinet base model that really needs a readout at least on the carriage! I have a perfect Newall 36" travel scale and transducer taken from a Bridgeport that I'd love to use but haven't found a display for a reasonable price. Also have a "spare" Travadial but the Atlas won't like it.


I did talk to another guy in the group with the I-Gaging setup, he's happy with it. The price is right too.


Thanks for the pics.


Dave

On January 18, 2019 at 6:23 AM "Bill Buckalew via Groups.Io" <bill70j=[email protected]> wrote:

?
qanthony87:

Here are some pics of the DRO installed on my Atlas 10F.

It is an I-Gaging EZ-View 24" scale on the Y and 12" scale on the X.

It is accurate and repeatable, and cost under $100.

HTH,? Bill

On Thursday, January 17, 2019, 3:48:32 PM PST, qanthony87 <aquinn50@...> wrote:


Bill how’s about some pics

?

On Jan 16, 2019, at 7:07 PM, Bill Buckalew via Groups.Io < bill70j@...> wrote:

?
Jody:

Agree.? I think you are right on point.? No need for an indicator if you have DRO.? But the stop comes in handy at times if you're in a hurry or are just lazy, like me.??

Adding XY DRO's (dumb, but effective and cheap I-Gaging DRO's) to the Atlas was one of the best upgrades I made, second only to the QCTP.

Bill

On Wednesday, January 16, 2019, 11:50:35 AM PST, Jody < jp4lsu@...> wrote:


Guenther,
You make a good point about the swarf.? I was using mine on a mighty mag and had it setup up behind the carriage.? It worked ok, with exception of the magnet part of it.? I'm thinking of doing something that can hold the indicator and have a stop between the indicator and the ways.? Doing this I can take my measurements with the dial and then set my stop and then take the dial out of the holder to keep it away from the swarf.
Thanks for mentioning that, I didn't think about that aspect of it yet.?
Maybe I just go all DRO and forget this...Haha!

Thanks for the input, swarf is now going to be taken into account.
-Jody