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Re: Yaesu ft 101E no ALC indication on SSB

 

Thanks again Peter. I'll look into those items. (when I next get the inclination!)

Peter G0LQU

Peter Roberts G4DJB wrote:

Okay Peter - that one sounds very much like a leaky C13. That capacitor couples the anode of the driver to the grids of the PA and is another of those known weak spots!

I sounds as if your radio does need a fair bit of TLC and I would recommend replacing C11, C13, C131 and C17 - all of these are chassis mounted items on the underside of the radio in the driver/PA area. Whilst there, the driver & PA areas should also be checked to see if any of the resistors there have gone out of tolerance and replace any that have.

I have an early 101 and a late 101E and have seen all of the above capacitors go leaky on one or both radios, plus a number of the resistors in the driver/PA area go out of tolerance.

73,

Peter
G4DJB


Re: Yaesu ft 101E no ALC indication on SSB

 

Okay Peter - that one sounds very much like a leaky C13. That capacitor couples the anode of the driver to the grids of the PA and is another of those known weak spots!

I sounds as if your radio does need a fair bit of TLC and I would recommend replacing C11, C13, C131 and C17 - all of these are chassis mounted items on the underside of the radio in the driver/PA area. Whilst there, the driver & PA areas should also be checked to see if any of the resistors there have gone out of tolerance and replace any that have.

I have an early 101 and a late 101E and have seen all of the above capacitors go leaky on one or both radios, plus a number of the resistors in the driver/PA area go out of tolerance.

73,

Peter
G4DJB


Re: Yaesu ft 101E no ALC indication on SSB

 

Hi Peter and many thanks for the additional advice. Actually I have decided to have a break from that radio - if anything there are other things not working - when I try to adjust the standing current Ic in "Tune" mode it suddenly jumps to full scale, the pilot light dims, and there is a "crack" sound fro the area of the PA.If I may I'll contact you later when I feel like pursuing this!

Kind regards

Peter

G0LQU

Peter Roberts G4DJB wrote:

Hi Peter,

Okay, so no SSB out even though you have AM & Tune/CW. It still could be a fault with the ALC or dirty relay. You could certainly check the voltages around D2 in the ALC circuit. If C17 has gone leaky (a common fault) then there could be a large negative voltage on the ALC line to the processor board which would shut down the SSB output (ALC does not operate on CW, AM or TUNE).
As for the relay, there is a small cross-head screw on the top of the relay's plastic cover that fixes the plastic case to the metal bracket that holds the relay coil. Remove that screw and it should then be possible to remove the relay's plastic cover.

Probably best to start with voltage checks on the processor board around Q6 and the ALC input pin.

One other thing you could try is to take/make a short jumper lead and temporarily connect the input to the output on the processor board and see if SSB on Tx works like that.

By all means you could email results as I don't often check this group.

73,
Peter
G4DJB


Re: FT-101E conversion to 6883B finals

 

Hi Dan,?

Very good on the test bench set up. The dim bulb test should work fine. I don't have much in the way of test equipment ... a B&K isolation transformer, a digital 200MHz disk channel scope with built in signal generator (that's handy), a couple of multimeters and some insulated trimmer adjustment tools from my TV/radio servicing days. I found out in short order however, that they weren't insulated enough to work around high voltages. I got but a couple of times while neutralizing the new finals. It took two layers of shrink tubing for isolation. Live and learn I guess.?

I got some smoke once towards the end of my rebuild. It took me almost three days to find the source. Had the rig on its side, heard a quick snap and saw a little puff come up from ..... somewhere. After inspecting EVERYTHING,? under magnification, and finding nothing I turned it on again and found I had no audio. It turned out that I had lost the AN-214 audio amp .... no visible component damage though. Anyway I replaced that and it came back to life.?

I also had to build my own .156" pitch extender cards. I designed 4 double sided cards and bought several dual position edge connectors. The 101E uses single position connectors but I figured dual position connectors would be more versatile.?

Anyway, I've rambled a bit here so I'll let you go. I need to get my antenna back up on the roof now that is cleaned and tuned. Good luck with getting your rig back in service.?

73

On Mon, Nov 13, 2023, 6:26 PM Dan KK7JNR via <stockupdate2006=[email protected]> wrote:

[Edited Message Follows]

Hi Ron,
Yes, I have a variac.? My plan is to use a Tripp-lite isolation transformer I modified to be truly isolated.? Plug the variac into it and from the variac connect to the dim bulb tester with (3) switchable bulbs of different wattages.? Have all the parts just need to put the dim bulb tester together.??

Glad you brought up using the variac only.? My understanding from YouTube is that if any shorts are present then the bulbs should limit the current and prevent any damage.? Not sure if this is true in all cases but it sounds good.? I have been slowly setting up a lab and acquiring test equipment.? My ham radio gear is from the late 70's I bought new but has been sitting.? My heart would drop if I saw any magic smoke from the FT-101E especially with hard to get or unobtainable parts.? I would like to get test equipment for transceiver repair and alignments.? Not sure what you use.? I purchased a two-part re-cap kits from eBay pending installation.? Need to find out if any alignments will be needed afterwards.? It's been slow but lots of fun along the way.??

Thanks for your help.
Dan
--
73, KK7JNR


Re: FT-101E conversion to 6883B finals

 
Edited

Hi Ron,
Yes, I have a variac.? My plan is to use a Tripp-lite isolation transformer I modified to be truly isolated.? Plug the variac into it and from the variac connect to the dim bulb tester with (3) switchable bulbs of different wattages.? Have all the parts just need to put the dim bulb tester together.??

Glad you brought up using the variac only.? My understanding from YouTube is that if any shorts are present then the bulbs should limit the current and prevent any damage.? Not sure if this is true in all cases but it sounds good.? I have been slowly setting up a lab and acquiring test equipment.? My ham radio gear is from the late 70's I bought new but has been sitting.? My heart would drop if I saw any magic smoke from the FT-101E especially with hard to get or unobtainable parts.? I would like to get test equipment for transceiver repair and alignments.? Not sure what you use.? I purchased a two-part re-cap kits from eBay pending installation.? Need to find out if any alignments will be needed afterwards.? It's been slow but lots of fun along the way.??

Thanks for your help.
Dan
--
73, KK7JNR


Re: FT-101E conversion to 6883B finals

 

Hi Dan,?
Do you have a variac? That would work. I used a multitap (90v-120v in 5v increments) isolation transformer when I brought mine back to life. Then it managed to blow both Q1 and Q2 on the regulator board .... no 6v so no VFO and no operation. I ended up recapping the regulator board and replacing the diodes on the rectifier board.?

It's been an education ?.

On Sun, Nov 12, 2023, 12:18 PM Dan via <stockupdate2006=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Ron,

Glad to hear the conversion worked out for you.? I had read some articles about the conversion but wasn't sure where that would lead me if I needed to do it.? I'm assuming these tubes are easy to acquire and hopefully cheaper.? I have a couple of holdups on my radio before powering it up. I want to build a dim bulb tester to power it up in case of damage from old electrolytics.? After that, check the power output and see where it's at.? Forums are new to me as a participant, so I had to jump in when I saw mention of the FT-101E.??

Thanks for the reply.
Dan
--
73, KK7JNR


Re: FT-101E conversion to 6883B finals

 

Hi Ron,

Glad to hear the conversion worked out for you.? I had read some articles about the conversion but wasn't sure where that would lead me if I needed to do it.? I'm assuming these tubes are easy to acquire and hopefully cheaper.? I have a couple of holdups on my radio before powering it up. I want to build a dim bulb tester to power it up in case of damage from old electrolytics.? After that, check the power output and see where it's at.? Forums are new to me as a participant, so I had to jump in when I saw mention of the FT-101E.??

Thanks for the reply.
Dan
--
73, KK7JNR


Re: FT-101E conversion to 6883B finals

 

Hi Dan,?
I was a little concerned about that as well.? I actually triple checked everything I did before applying power. I used the cold neutralization process from the conversion article and added the trimmer cap for 10m as recommended. Apparently everything went fine with the conversion. I chose the 6883Bs over the 6146 in order to get the 100+W output. The 6883s require a higer grid voltage than the 6146s but the article and the schematic provided gave the specifics on how to install the grid boost circuit.?

Don't know if I answered your question but the conversion work for me. My first contact after going back on the air was in Scotland and my report was 59 at 100W with a Cushcraft Ringo Ranger at about 10m. My 2nd contact was just yesterday afternoon in Iowa, again 59 but at 50W with the same antenne only at about 4m (trying to fine tune since SWR was 2+). Today's contact was in Oregon with same antenna setup and about 50W. All things considered I'm very happy with the rigs performance. Tomorrow I hope to get the antenna back up to its 10m height and I expect? the SWR will come down.

I realize this was a bit long and maybe a bit disconnected but overall the 6883s are actual beam power tubes AC BFF they seem to be working well .... the rig? actually runs a bit cooler as well.

73, N1BHE


On Sat, Nov 11, 2023, 2:43 PM Dan via <stockupdate2006=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi Ron,

I have the FT-101E that has been in its original box throughout the years since high school.? It had the 6JS6C tubes replaced once.? Not sure how long tubes last sitting around.??Prices and brands vary widely.? I'm wondering about neutralizing if you can run into issues with different brands.?

Just curious, have you found a place to acquire these tubes at a reasonable price.??

Thanks
Dan


Re: FT-101E conversion to 6883B finals

 

Hi Ron,

I have the FT-101E that has been in its original box throughout the years since high school.? It had the 6JS6C tubes replaced once.? Not sure how long tubes last sitting around.??Prices and brands vary widely.? I'm wondering about neutralizing if you can run into issues with different brands.?

Just curious, have you found a place to acquire these tubes at a reasonable price.??

Thanks
Dan


Re: Yaesu ft 101E no ALC indication on SSB

 

Hi Peter,

Okay, so no SSB out even though you have AM & Tune/CW. It still could be a fault with the ALC or dirty relay. You could certainly check the voltages around D2 in the ALC circuit. If C17 has gone leaky (a common fault) then there could be a large negative voltage on the ALC line to the processor board which would shut down the SSB output (ALC does not operate on CW,? AM or TUNE).
As for the relay, there is a small cross-head screw on the top of the relay's plastic cover that fixes the plastic case to the metal bracket that holds the relay coil. Remove that screw and it should then be possible to remove the relay's plastic cover.

Probably best to start with voltage checks on the processor board around Q6 and the ALC input pin.

One other thing you could try is to take/make a short jumper lead and temporarily connect the input to the output on the processor board and see if SSB on Tx works like that.

By all means you could email results as I don't often check this group.

73,
Peter
G4DJB


Re: Yaesu ft 101E no ALC indication on SSB

 

Hi Peter and many thanks for your comprehensive reply!

I will certainly try your suggestions for the metering fault. However I can get no power out at all using a dummy load (on a separate power/swr meter) with the mic gain turned up to max from zero and whistling into the mic. If it was just a metering problem could I expect to see power out on a separate meter? Maybe the metering is OK and faithfully reporting that there is no power out.? But I stilll don't get any meter movement from zero when switch to ALC. I'm confused!

I did think of that relay and removed it for cleaning but couldn't work out how to remove the plastic case! The meter switch works perfectly for the other positions so I'm assuming its OK for the ALC position - but maybe not!

I will certainly measure the voltages on Q6 as you suggest.

If you're willing will email the results for further comment?

Kind regards

Peter G0LQU

Peter Roberts G4DJB wrote:

Hi Peter,

The D2 referred to is the D2 in the ALC circuitry which is located on tag strips in the chassis just outside the PA/Driver compartment - I think this is what you referred to as the D2 in the grid circuitry of V2? However, I don't think that is your problem. The page you referred to in the service manual assumes (although it doesn't say so) that the meter is going full scale to start with and "no ALC indication" means that there is no deflection back from full scale.

So, your problem would seem to be with the metering circuit would be my guess. As a start, try cleaning the contacts on the PO/IC/ALC meter switch. The next thing to try would be clean the contacts on the main chassis mounted relay, RL1. The ALC meter signal passes through both of these and if the radio has been sat for a number of years then these contacts may need cleaning. Other things that might stop the meter from being able to be set to full scale on ALC would be a dead Q6 or open circuit/ dirty VR2 on the processor board. The schematic of the processor board later in the service manual shows what voltages you should be seeing on Q6. If you are seeing the correct voltages on Q6 then the only thing stopping the meter from going full scale is VR2 and the switch/relay contacts between the processor board and the meter.

You should still be able to check that you get SSB output by tuning the radio and set the mic gain to, say, 3, and then key the radio and check for speech peaks with the radio's meter set to Ic. You should also be able to see RF output on an external power meter. Hopefully you can get the ALC working at some point.

Good luck!

Peter
G4DJB


Re: Yaesu ft 101E no ALC indication on SSB

 

Hi Peter,

The D2 referred to is the D2 in the ALC circuitry which is located on tag strips in the chassis just outside the PA/Driver compartment - I think this is what you referred to as the D2 in the grid circuitry of V2? However, I don't think that is your problem. The page you referred to in the service manual assumes (although it doesn't say so) that the meter is going full scale to start with and "no ALC indication" means that there is no deflection back from full scale.

So, your problem would seem to be with the metering circuit would be my guess. As a start, try cleaning the contacts on the PO/IC/ALC meter switch. The next thing to try would be clean the contacts on the main chassis mounted relay, RL1. The ALC meter signal passes through both of these and if the radio has been sat for a number of years then these contacts may need cleaning. Other things that might stop the meter from being able to be set to full scale on ALC would be a dead Q6 or open circuit/ dirty VR2 on the processor board. The schematic of the processor board later in the service manual shows what voltages you should be seeing on Q6. If you are seeing the correct voltages on Q6 then the only thing stopping the meter from going full scale is VR2 and the switch/relay contacts between the processor board and the meter.

You should still be able to check that you get SSB output by tuning the radio and set the mic gain to, say, 3, and then key the radio and check for speech peaks with the radio's meter set to Ic. You should also be able to see RF output on an external power meter. Hopefully you can get the ALC working at some point.

Good luck!

Peter
G4DJB


Yaesu ft 101E no ALC indication on SSB

 

Hello. my first post for a long while so hoping somerone can help me.
I have powered up this rig after many years in (dry!) storage.

I was vey encouraged when in the "Tune" mode I obtained 120W out into a dummy load.

Obtained 120W out on CW and about 50W am - all to specification.

Then I tried SSB (LSB on 40 meters). In order to set up the correct microphone gain I have to switch to LSB mode with the meter set to ALC. On key up the meter should read about full scale - but it doesn't move off zero! So I can't get to the stasge of adjusting the mic. gain to get correct level of modulation.

I have copies the user manual and the service manual.

This exact fault is actually described in the service manual (page 4-8) with relevant circuits (pages 4-9 and 4-10).

However I have found that these circuit diagrams are ambiguous and in one case completely incorrect.

One solution suggests "grounding the anode of D2 which can restore SSB". Fine - but which D2? The "D2" shown for the "RF speech processor" (Board PB 1534) is clearly nothing to do with the SSB circuit although D3 on that board is connected to the ALC line.

I wondered if the "D2" mentioned for shorting anode to ground is the D2 in the grid circuitry of V2?

I didn't want to short this to ground without some advice! so That is my query!

Many thanks for any thoughts/suggestions.

Peter G0LQU


Re: FT101ZD Dial and Digital Counter Misaligned

 

Hey that worked perfect! Thanks for the tip! I figured there had to be a simple solution out there but couldn't find anything in the manual or online! Guess it was so simple that I should have just been able to figure it out hihi


Re: FT101ZD Dial and Digital Counter Misaligned

 

Hi Michael,

Not to worry, the metal ring on the vfo knob behind the plastic portion rotates with the analog dial. Hold the metal ring firmly and turn the plastic knob so the analog is correct. It will likely need netting in with each mode change. Most just use the digital display. It looks like you have a MKlll version, congrats! That is a nice rig, I have one here.?

73 Don ve3ids?


On Thu., Oct. 5, 2023, 2:53 p.m. Michael Forsman (KE?TCF), <om@...> wrote:
Hello all. I am BRAND new to the FT101 so be patient with me. I'm new to radios of this vintage in general and just got this radio yesterday and haven't had time to play much with it but I'm pretty sure something is wrong here.?

See picture. The sub-dial does not show the correct number as what is indicated on the digital counter. Does something need aligned here? Is this easily fixable by someone like me or does it have to go to a shop? Or does it even really matter? The digital counter appears to be accurate. I find signals where I expect them to be on the digital counter.?

Any help is appreciated! Thanks!


FT101ZD Dial and Digital Counter Misaligned

 

Hello all. I am BRAND new to the FT101 so be patient with me. I'm new to radios of this vintage in general and just got this radio yesterday and haven't had time to play much with it but I'm pretty sure something is wrong here.?

See picture. The sub-dial does not show the correct number as what is indicated on the digital counter. Does something need aligned here? Is this easily fixable by someone like me or does it have to go to a shop? Or does it even really matter? The digital counter appears to be accurate. I find signals where I expect them to be on the digital counter.?

Any help is appreciated! Thanks!


Re: FT-101E conversion to 6883B finals

 

Thanks for sharing the link Emerson.? An excellent article on not only what NOT to do by why not...? ?I am always on the lookout for another FT101Z but will now be wary of the 'not working' stuff...? Al GM4ENF.


Re: FT-101E conversion to 6883B finals

 

Emerson, thanks for that. That cements my decision to return my 101E to original. At least I can backtrack what I did and it should work ... I've already bought the replacement 6JS6C sockets. Now I just have to find the tubes at an affordable price.?


On Sun, Oct 1, 2023, 8:40 AM Emerson PP6EW <bunhoel@...> wrote:


A good advice.


Re: FT-101E conversion to 6883B finals

 



A good advice.


Re: 101zd low rx solution.

 

Interesting. My 101Z suddenly became 'deaf' some time ago.? After a lot of investigion work I came to the conclusion that? the first RF Amp device had likely failed.? I am a little reluctant to start desoldering etc as the rig is in 42 years old original untouched condition.? Were yuu able to source a genuing 3SK51 (or use an equivalent?) I cannot find one on internet but I understand that a 40673 will work.? Any frther information on your rix would be appreciated.? Thanks Al GM4ENF.