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Hello: This is a (sort of) followup to this post. I went looking and found what I had started working on (more than a year or so ago) while I waited for parts and assorted tools to continue with my U3's much needed rework, which is still in progress. Like a visit to your odontologist: you know when go in but not when you'll leave. What I had in mind was using the existing OEM accesory (that expensive little thingy ... ) but driven by an independent 12/24v DC motor with fwd/rev PWM control. A simple solution to the 'twirl around the handle' hassle involved in moving the carriage away when not turning with a tool. It would still use a belt (preferably round) but it would be of a larger size and section so it would (hopefully) not stretch or slip like the OEM spec o'rings used from the factory. The photos attached are just a proof of concept, a general idea to improve upon and share with the board. Notes: 1. The mounting plate for this mock up was made from scrap galvanised steel sheet. The original one will be replaced with a larger one made from 4 or 5mm laser cut steel plate. The final dimensions and shape of the new mounting plate will become clear when I know what the driving pulley looks like and the exact motor used. 2. This U3 accessory is notoriously difficult to take apart to clean and grease. If you plan on taking it apart, have a close look at the exploded view I am attaching (from the U3 manual). There are a few things that will be lost if you don't. eg: parts 9, 10 and 11 Don't ask me how I know that. 3. You may notice that the hole through which the knurled knob used to engage / disengage the power feed has been enlarged. It has been done so that it can pass through the mounting plate by just undoing three screws. This is needed to be able to take the mechanism apart without having to remove a pin to then remove the knob to then remove the shaft and so on. ie: to avoid all the hassle involved. But don't look for it in the exploded parts diagramme as it is not numbered. You can see it to the left of the gear in the main axle. Eventually, a thin rubber/silicone something can be put in place between the gear and the mounting plate if grease starts to come out while in use. But if hard white/yellow grease (B&D power drill gear stuff) is used, it should not happen. Comments / suggestions welcome. Best, JHM

I needed to reduce a piece of thick wall steel DOM tube by 0.5 mm to about 38 mm. It's 153 mm long. In order to fit it on the lathe I retracted head spindle past the stop screw. Then I made a hollowed plug fitted into the end of the tube to accommodate/recess live center of the tail stock. The part barely clears the cross slide. Finish leaves a lot to be desired, but it did the job.

Can the Unimat DB/SL forum be separated from the Unimat 3 Forum? Even though all are technically Unimats it is sometimes difficult to follow as the discussion is mixed together. Just wondering! Dick -- http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/ OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972 http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/s...995#post112113 SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/l...994#post112111 LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/m...383#post110340 MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/s...191#post106483 SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/q...849#post119345 QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/m...949#post119893 MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION

This message / topic has the (already defined) hashtag #unimat3 added through the web interface (the '# Add Tags' button to the right of the subject field in a 'New Topic'). When you select one or more hashtags and add them they appear (in the web browser interface anyway) at the end of the subject line. Adding them looks like this in the interface (you can also see the 'Hashtags' item in the menu, on the left): I'm interested to know where (if at all) they appear in an email (in the subject line?), and if they 'persist' across multiple posts (replies). Could someone reply to this please?

Hi Guys Im driving to NY state to see family for American Thanksgiving and wanted to see if any group member wanted any of the accessories I have locally brought along so I could ship via USPS FLAT RATE BOX. ALL PRICES CANADIAN SO NEED TO CONVERT, ABOUT 35% LESS. Here’s the list of available items: Indexing/Dividing attachment (24 or 48 tooth wheels, $200 with choice of wheel) Circular clamping plate $130 Steady Rest $190 Collet Chuck & 4 collets. $250 for Chuck, $40 each collet added Slow Speed motor Bracket $250 Any questions let me know? Cheers, Jeff??

Threading on the Unimat can be done without special chasing equipment. I am going to make an ER32 collet chuck without any special equipment. I bought a cap screw with the same thread pitch as the ER32 collet and a matching tap. I am going to drill drill and tap a starting hole in my bar stock and use the as my leader. With this setup I should be able to cut a single point internal thread to fit an ER32 collet nut I have. If it works as I intend it to I will be home free. We will see how it goes. Stay tuned! Dick -- http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/ OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972 http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/s...995#post112113 SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/l...994#post112111 LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/m...383#post110340 MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/s...191#post106483 SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/q...849#post119345 QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/m...949#post119893 MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION

Some older Unimats feature the type of motor pictured below. Is this an induction motor? It has a housing on the side that indicates presence of a capacitor, and no sign of brush access holes. It is also 125W, an improvement over typical 90W. Induction motors hold speed and torque under load much better than brushed universal ones. Does anyone have any information or experience with it? Thank you.

Hello everybody, Nice to discover other amateurs of the Emco Unimat! I just removed mine from the attic where it was sleeping for more than 50 years and now I am in the process of learning to use it. And I already come up with a question: Does anybody knows the details of the saw blade for the jig saw? Up to now I haven't been able to find a reseller for the right size of blades. I found small blades, but they don't withstand to the fact that they are only clamped on the underside and therefore they bend after a very short use. The main use would be for fine wooden workpieces. As I am living in Belgium, it would be nice if somebody can indicate me an Internet shop for this blades. Thanks in advance!

I dont know what type Keith has, but I happen to have 2 toolholders with knife tools, both from German manufacturer Komet, also spelled Comet. I took pictures of both and created files for these 2 types - Komet A No. 0 DRGM and Comet A00, complete with rough measurements. Please see here: /g/Unimat/files/Comet%20toolholders%20for%20tool%20knives Komet apparently still is in business and the Comet A00 model can still be ordered (there are actually 4 types there), with a whole range of knives, please see here: https://www.hoffmann-group.com/FI/en/ravemaf/p/240010-A00 Hope this helps and I too would love to hear a bit more from Keith, time permitting. Herman Op 21-11-2024 07:19 CET schreef james Pineda via groups.io <james_h_pineda@...>: HI Keith. Could you elaborate on what you mean by the "knife tool"? You might have just cracked the code for many Unimat/very small lathe users. Best, James On Wednesday, November 20, 2024 at 08:23:59 PM PST, Keith S. Angus via groups.io <keithsangus@...> wrote: On Wed, Nov 20, 2024 at 07:04 PM, Bill in OKC too wrote: Properly ground and honed HSS (High Speed Steel) is sharper than any carbide tooling. It takes decent cuts, leaves a finer finish on the work piece, and does not lose its temper if it gets overheated. High Carbon tool steel will take a better, sharper edge, but get it hot enough to turn blue and it loses it temper and the edge disintegrates. Someone here pointed out that you can get a sharper edge on HSS than with carbon steel, and then I was told that grades with cobalt have a sharper edge. I've found lathe bits from ?' on up in M42, which is a cobalt/molybdenum grade. I haven=t tried it yet - I want to design a holder for the small bits, which will then need less work to grind them to shape. For grinding I have experimented with small (50 mm, 2") diamond wheels and got a good sharp edge and polished surfaces in a short time. There was very little grinding dust, not much noise, no sparks and no smell of burning. I now need to mount the motor and wheel into some sort of frame to give me an adjustable tool support. I've never used the tool sets often supplied with small lathes as the shapes are not so useful. The one that does most work for me is the knife tool, good for turning and facing. I rarely need anything else, just the same shape with different rakes for brass, steel and aluminium.

Hello: On Fri, Nov 22, 2024 at 03:30 AM, Peter Brooks wrote: A closer look does not improve things much. (see attached blow-up) But yes, it would seem (?) that it is just a motorised carriage leadscrew. I was hoping that someone had devised a relatively easy/practical way of disengaging the leadscrew but it seems it is not the case. Not being an ACME thread (with all that it implies) does make it a rather difficult thing to implement. Still, the motorised leadscrew is not a bad idea. One of the things I really dislike about the U3 is that moving the carriage out of the way is so cumbersome. What seems to be mounted on the carriage is part # 150.190 (top/compound slide holder). One of the most expensive* U3 accesories, probably designed by a beancounter in a hurry to go to lunch. ie: a bad design and even worse choice of material. Blue Ridge Machinery and Tools sold it for US$49.00 back when there was no email and traded through a 0800 + a PO Box (pre 1980?). * Roughly the same price as the power feed #150.300 (US$51.00) and vice #150.310 (US$48.00) To get a relative idea of the amount: a loaded hot dog+small Coke in NYC (~ 35th and 3rd.) in 04/1980 cost me $1.00. But I digress ... Can anyone make out what has been done to the cross slide? I see that a slide stop has been added, surgery done where the screw fits and a new handwheel installed. Any ideas as to the handwheel? Best, JHM

Hey there Does anyone know the weight of a cast iron Unimat lathe with the milling attachment included? i only have a 2kg max scale…. thanks, Jeff

I've been looking for a long time to find a scrubbing stick for my little Unimat. Either the parts on offer are totally rotten or outrageously expensive. I looked around for an alternative and found a small control / grinding vice. The jaw width is 26 mm and the clamping width is 25 mm. I have screwed this vice onto a plate so that I can attach it to my sled.

Hey Guys Gonna be stateside (NY State) for Yanksgiving, and am driving. Could bring my Unimat power feed along for a buyer if interested. Im looking for $300 Canadian or about $230 US for it + shipping, likely use the USPS Medium flat box to ship about $16 now? It has tracking if memory serves. If interested, let me know. Regards, Jeff??

Opinions Please What is a better choice, Unimat 3 or DB/SL? Dick -- http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/ OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972 http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/s...995#post112113 SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/l...994#post112111 LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/m...383#post110340 MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/s...191#post106483 SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/q...849#post119345 QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/m...949#post119893 MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION

I have the original DBSL dividing attachment with 3 dividing wheels or gears. There is no good way of knowing what space or notch I am in as I can’t see the notch. I think this makes it very hard to know where I am. This is a short coming of this dividing system. I have considered making a stand alone dividing head. Has anyone in this group had a similars experience with this system? If so I would appreciate it if you could share how you work around this short coming. Thanks Dick -- http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/ OFF-SET-tailstock-center-65965#post105972 http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/s...995#post112113 SMALL TURRET TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/l...994#post112111 LARGE TURRET TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/m...383#post110340 MINI-LATHE CARRIAGE LOCK PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/s...191#post106483 SMALL QC TOOL POST PLANS http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/q...849#post119345 QUICK CHANGE LATHE TURRET http://www.homemadetools.net/forum/m...949#post119893 MINI LATHE COMPOUND PIVOT MODIFICATION