开云体育

On Sun, May 5, 2019 at 8:34 AM cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote:

Ouch, I'll steer clear then! Thanks!

On Sun, May 5, 2019 at 2:52 AM Daveolla <grobbins@...> wrote:

Greetings, I dunno how much I would trust a glue to hold down the
connector . From looking at the picture I would be inclined to drill
a fine hole on either side of the pin or pins and tie it down with a
copper wire and then solder it to the pin to remove any slack in the
tiedown. Or a single hole for each pin and push a sewing pin thru
the hole with the head of the pin on the other side of the board (pin
head bigger than the hole) and curl the other end over the connector
pin , nip it off and solder out any slack

If there is something on the other side of the board that would be
shorted to the pin, a few wraps of thread could also hold things down
and give the thread a drip of CA glue to harden up
thread. Presumably the connector pins are supposed to hold the
connector down but perhaps the plastic connector body could be
tacked down with variations of the above techniques and relieve the
pins from that duty.

And like other have said, getting CA glue fumes from soldering in
yours eyes is a real eye sore! Your eye muscles will shut your eyes
so tight the sun won't make it thru!!!

Dave

Here you go!

On Sat, 4 May 2019, 14:02 Adrian <Adrian@... wrote:

okay, help me out here because I'm confused/bemused by 25+ posts

about

high temp glue needed to hold down a connector on a PCB so I've
obviously missed something!

First off, am I right in that:

a) A (thru-hole?) internal connector has come off a PCB and busted a
ground pin in the process.

b) It left (one?) other pin still electrically connected to its pad

and

trace but those have peeled of the surface of the board.

c) You think can reposition the connector to the board and sort the
ground pin by somehow re-soldering it

d) You believe you can add glue (epoxy) around the connector to

secure

it to the PCB.

If the above is correct why do you need glue for a trace that can
withstand soldering temperatures - the trace/PCB bond cannot be

adding

to the retention of the connector against connection/disconnection
forces - so why not re-position/solder everything then add the epoxy
when you're done and brush on a bit of conformal coat or wire-tak or
something to protect/secure the 'loose' trace?

BTW you know that saying " A picture is worth a thousand words"?

That is

very true in cases like this!

Adrian

On 5/4/2019 9:20 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

Thanks. This is an internal plug which is not accessible from the

outside.

On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 3:06 AM John Kolb <jlkolb@...>

wrote:

After repair, I would suggest a short extension cable left

attached to

the equipment, so all plugging/inplugging stresses are moved to

the end

of the extender.

Jophn

On 5/3/2019 6:28 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part

is still

attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket

for a

cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will

have to

solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off,

so the

glue

has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural

solder on

the

sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than

that?

Thanks.

On 5/5/2019 11:25 AM, machineguy59 via Groups.Io wrote:

Cheeter asked: "Does anyone see a reason not to use UHU Endfest?"Yes, I do.? It has a very low temperature range (80 Deg C max).? They also make no mention of electrical conductivity.? While most epoxies are insulators and it is simple to test a sample, the lack of this information implies they have no expectation of this kind of use.? That is another red flag to me.
BTW, my favorite, CW2500, boasts short term service temperature to 600 Deg F.? And, its made for this purpose.? My experience has been all epoxies begin to fail around 80 deg C (Water boils at 100 Deg C).? But they each fail in different ways.? CW2500 begins to soften, then turns to sticky goo which hardens once cooled.? If the overheating period is short, the final result is still sound.
Cheeter asked: "What is the shelf life of these products?"CW2500 is 12 months according to the manufacturers data sheet.
On Sunday, May 5, 2019, 11:43:30 AM CDT, cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote:
Does anyone see a reason not to use UHU Endfest? Here's a datasheet in
English:

On Mon, May 6, 2019 at 12:38 AM John Kolb <jlkolb@...> wrote:

Another possible issue - back in my DC metrology days, we tried making a
standoff insulator by embedding a tinned copper wire in a aluminum block
using epoxy - shocked (pun intended) to find we had created a battery.
Depending on the signals present and the type of epoxy, this could
create a problem.

John

On 5/5/2019 11:25 AM, machineguy59 via Groups.Io wrote:

Cheeter asked: "Does anyone see a reason not to use UHU Endfest?"Yes, I do. It has a very low temperature range (80 Deg C max). They also make no mention of electrical conductivity. While most epoxies are insulators and it is simple to test a sample, the lack of this information implies they have no expectation of this kind of use. That is another red flag to me.
BTW, my favorite, CW2500, boasts short term service temperature to 600 Deg F. And, its made for this purpose. My experience has been all epoxies begin to fail around 80 deg C (Water boils at 100 Deg C). But they each fail in different ways. CW2500 begins to soften, then turns to sticky goo which hardens once cooled. If the overheating period is short, the final result is still sound.
Cheeter asked: "What is the shelf life of these products?"CW2500 is 12 months according to the manufacturers data sheet.
On Sunday, May 5, 2019, 11:43:30 AM CDT, cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote:

Does anyone see a reason not to use UHU Endfest? Here's a datasheet in
English:

On Sunday, May 5, 2019, 07:00:18 PM CDT, cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote:

Hi John & co,
thanks for your emails. The trace in question is for delivering DC
3.55V from a lithium battery for a low power digital device. The UHU
glue is non-conductive. 80 degrees is a bit low. The other one is 100
degrees, still low. I guess that's long term 100 degrees. I think I'm
going to get it, see how it reacts to heat after curing on a piece of
scrap cardboard, and based on that decide if it's good enough to glue
down the PCB trace and solder on it.

Turns out Farnell has CW2500 for 36 Euro shipped in Austria, but
unfortunately that's not economical for this repair.

On Mon, May 6, 2019 at 12:38 AM John Kolb <jlkolb@...> wrote:

Another possible issue - back in my DC metrology days, we tried making a
standoff insulator by embedding a tinned copper wire in a aluminum block
using epoxy - shocked (pun intended) to find we had created a battery.
Depending on the signals present and the type of epoxy, this could
create a problem.

John

On 5/5/2019 11:25 AM, machineguy59 via Groups.Io wrote:

? Cheeter asked: "Does anyone see a reason not to use UHU Endfest?"Yes, I do.? It has a very low temperature range (80 Deg C max).? They also make no mention of electrical conductivity.? While most epoxies are insulators and it is simple to test a sample, the lack of this information implies they have no expectation of this kind of use.? That is another red flag to me.
BTW, my favorite, CW2500, boasts short term service temperature to 600 Deg F.? And, its made for this purpose.? My experience has been all epoxies begin to fail around 80 deg C (Water boils at 100 Deg C).? But they each fail in different ways.? CW2500 begins to soften, then turns to sticky goo which hardens once cooled.? If the overheating period is short, the final result is still sound.
Cheeter asked: "What is the shelf life of these products?"CW2500 is 12 months according to the manufacturers data sheet.
? ? ? On Sunday, May 5, 2019, 11:43:30 AM CDT, cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote:

? Does anyone see a reason not to use UHU Endfest? Here's a datasheet in
English:

On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 09:29 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue
has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the
sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks.