[OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?

cheater cheater · 2019-05-06T16:41:20-07:00

I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I

[OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?

cheater cheater Member Profile All Messages By This Member #156667 I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks.
stefan_trethan #156668 Epoxy would be much better. Probably still won't survive direct soldering (most fast cure epoxy glues don't have the same heat resistance as PCB material), but it will anchor the connector better than CA. With lifted pads or broken tracks it is always preferable to use a bit of wire and make a connection to the next pad, or at least a substantial undamaged stretch of track, rather than attempting a repair directly at the lifted pad / break. ST toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 3:29 PM cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote: I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks.
EricJ All Messages By This Member #156669 I'm with Stefan. I have always used epoxy for this. If I'm quick with the soldering iron the trace almost always stays put. I have done the external wire thing as well, with epoxy over the top when finished. --Eric toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Friday, May 3, 2019, 8:38:41 AM CDT, stefan_trethan <stefan_trethan@...> wrote: Epoxy would be much better. Probably still won't survive direct soldering (most fast cure epoxy glues don't have the same heat resistance as PCB material), but it will anchor the connector better than CA. With lifted pads or broken tracks it is always preferable to use a bit of wire and make a connection to the next pad, or at least a substantial undamaged stretch of track, rather than attempting a repair directly at the lifted pad / break. ST On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 3:29 PM cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote: I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder? on the sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks.
Brendan All Messages By This Member #156670 On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 06:29 AM, cheater cheater wrote: I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks. This is what I use. It is actually a pcb over coat epoxy but it seems to stand up well to heat.
cheater cheater Member Profile All Messages By This Member #156672 Thanks for the ideas. Tge trackbis just lifted, there is no break. It's flexible, held together by the conformal coating, and there's continuity. So, I want to glue it down. I don't think it would be possible to get epoxy under there, as I don't think it will wick. However CA glue will. What do you think of that? On Fri, 3 May 2019, 15:56 Brendan via Groups.Io <the_infinite_penguin= [email protected] wrote: On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 06:29 AM, cheater cheater wrote: I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks. This is what I use. It is actually a pcb over coat epoxy but it seems to stand up well to heat.
Mark Goldberg All Messages By This Member #156673 IPC 7711/7721 specifies two part epoxy or dry film epoxy for the repair of lifted pads. It costs a lot for a copy but if you do a search, you can find some older versions on the web. This web site explains the repairs: Regards, Mark toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 7:21 AM cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote: Thanks for the ideas. Tge trackbis just lifted, there is no break. It's flexible, held together by the conformal coating, and there's continuity. So, I want to glue it down. I don't think it would be possible to get epoxy under there, as I don't think it will wick. However CA glue will. What do you think of that? On Fri, 3 May 2019, 15:56 Brendan via Groups.Io <the_infinite_penguin= [email protected] wrote: On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 06:29 AM, cheater cheater wrote: I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks. This is what I use. It is actually a pcb over coat epoxy but it seems to stand up well to heat.
stefan_trethan #156677 I think you made up your mind. Don't breath the fumes when you solder near ca, or get them in your eyes. toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Fri, 3 May 2019, 16:21 cheater cheater, <cheater00@...> wrote: Thanks for the ideas. Tge trackbis just lifted, there is no break. It's flexible, held together by the conformal coating, and there's continuity. So, I want to glue it down. I don't think it would be possible to get epoxy under there, as I don't think it will wick. However CA glue will. What do you think of that? On Fri, 3 May 2019, 15:56 Brendan via Groups.Io <the_infinite_penguin= [email protected] wrote: On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 06:29 AM, cheater cheater wrote: I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks. This is what I use. It is actually a pcb over coat epoxy but it seems to stand up well to heat.
machineguy59 Member Profile All Messages By This Member #156678 I have tried CA glue on a lifted pad.? It stuck at first but failed immediately when barely touched with a soldering iron.? In your case the continuity is already there and you might risk not re-soldering that pad (for now).? But I, personally, do not feel that is acceptable in my equipment. I have used epoxy and it works but even then a very long dwell with a soldering iron makes it goo, not glue. toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Friday, May 3, 2019, 09:21:51 AM CDT, cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote: Thanks for the ideas. Tge trackbis just lifted, there is no break. It's flexible, held together by the conformal coating, and there's continuity. So, I want to glue it down. I don't think it would be possible to get epoxy under there, as I don't think it will wick. However CA glue will. What do you think of that? On Fri, 3 May 2019, 15:56 Brendan via Groups.Io <the_infinite_penguin= [email protected] wrote: On Fri, May? 3, 2019 at 06:29 AM, cheater cheater wrote: I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder? on the sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks. This is what I use. It is actually a pcb over coat epoxy but it seems to stand up well to heat.
Kevin Oconnor All Messages By This Member #156688 Absolutely use epoxy on the connector. Sent from kjo iPhone
Reginald Beardsley All Messages By This Member #156689 Take a look at these: All of them are rated to above the eutectic of lead tin solder.
cheater cheater Member Profile All Messages By This Member #156691 On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 5:04 PM machineguy59 via Groups.Io <machineguy59@...> wrote: I have tried CA glue on a lifted pad. It stuck at first but failed immediately when barely touched with a soldering iron. In your case the continuity is already there and you might risk not re-soldering that pad (for now). But I, personally, do not feel that is acceptable in my equipment. I heard that from others as well. So that completely rules out CA glue. I have used epoxy and it works but even then a very long dwell with a soldering iron makes it goo, not glue. I don't think you understand. The trace is lifted, and to the lifted trace is connected the pad (also lifted), and the part is soldered to that lifted pad and in the air. I need to glue the whole assembly down. On Friday, May 3, 2019, 09:21:51 AM CDT, cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote: Thanks for the ideas. Tge trackbis just lifted, there is no break. It's flexible, held together by the conformal coating, and there's continuity. So, I want to glue it down. I don't think it would be possible to get epoxy under there, as I don't think it will wick. However CA glue will. What do you think of that? On Fri, 3 May 2019, 15:56 Brendan via Groups.Io <the_infinite_penguin= [email protected] wrote: On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 06:29 AM, cheater cheater wrote: I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks. This is what I use. It is actually a pcb over coat epoxy but it seems to stand up well to heat.
cheater cheater Member Profile All Messages By This Member #156692 Thanks. I checked them out. I wasn't able to find a place that actually sells them - do you have a lead? It needs to be in Europe because importing chemicals from outside Europe is pretty much impossible. The only thing I've been able to find so far this... it says it's a highly electrically insulating, chemically curing (no need for air), two-part epoxy glue. It says it's high temperature resistant, but doesn't say what temperature exactly. On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 8:40 PM Reginald Beardsley via Groups.Io <pulaskite@...> wrote: Take a look at these: All of them are rated to above the eutectic of lead tin solder.
cheater cheater Member Profile All Messages By This Member #156693 What do you guys think of the DIP Tools Klebefix? (mentioned in my last email). Has anyone here used it? Thanks. toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 9:33 PM cheater00 cheater00 <cheater00@...> wrote: Thanks. I checked them out. I wasn't able to find a place that actually sells them - do you have a lead? It needs to be in Europe because importing chemicals from outside Europe is pretty much impossible. The only thing I've been able to find so far this... it says it's a highly electrically insulating, chemically curing (no need for air), two-part epoxy glue. It says it's high temperature resistant, but doesn't say what temperature exactly. On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 8:40 PM Reginald Beardsley via Groups.Io <pulaskite@...> wrote: Take a look at these: All of them are rated to above the eutectic of lead tin solder.
Mike D All Messages By This Member #156694 First solder, then JB Weld. Mike kd5rjz toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Fri, May 3, 2019, 2:34 PM cheater cheater <cheater00@... wrote: What do you guys think of the DIP Tools Klebefix? (mentioned in my last email). Has anyone here used it? Thanks. On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 9:33 PM cheater00 cheater00 <cheater00@...> wrote: Thanks. I checked them out. I wasn't able to find a place that actually sells them - do you have a lead? It needs to be in Europe because importing chemicals from outside Europe is pretty much impossible. The only thing I've been able to find so far this... it says it's a highly electrically insulating, chemically curing (no need for air), two-part epoxy glue. It says it's high temperature resistant, but doesn't say what temperature exactly. On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 8:40 PM Reginald Beardsley via Groups.Io <pulaskite@...> wrote: Take a look at these: All of them are rated to above the eutectic of lead tin solder.
cheater cheater Member Profile All Messages By This Member #156695 Again.... the solder connection is in place. it's just in air. It needs to be glued down. toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 9:36 PM Mike D <vfd.ninja@...> wrote: First solder, then JB Weld. Mike kd5rjz On Fri, May 3, 2019, 2:34 PM cheater cheater <cheater00@... wrote: What do you guys think of the DIP Tools Klebefix? (mentioned in my last email). Has anyone here used it? Thanks. On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 9:33 PM cheater00 cheater00 <cheater00@...> wrote: Thanks. I checked them out. I wasn't able to find a place that actually sells them - do you have a lead? It needs to be in Europe because importing chemicals from outside Europe is pretty much impossible. The only thing I've been able to find so far this... it says it's a highly electrically insulating, chemically curing (no need for air), two-part epoxy glue. It says it's high temperature resistant, but doesn't say what temperature exactly. On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 8:40 PM Reginald Beardsley via Groups.Io <pulaskite@...> wrote: Take a look at these: All of them are rated to above the eutectic of lead tin solder.
Mark Goldberg All Messages By This Member #156696 Try this site and use any reasonable two part epoxy. If you hold it down with tape as they suggest, even if the epoxy softens during soldering it will be held down and harden again. That site has guides for lots of types of repairs. Farnell should have something you can use: Regards, Mark toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 12:44 PM cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote: Again.... the solder connection is in place. it's just in air. It needs to be glued down. On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 9:36 PM Mike D <vfd.ninja@...> wrote: First solder, then JB Weld. Mike kd5rjz On Fri, May 3, 2019, 2:34 PM cheater cheater <cheater00@... wrote: What do you guys think of the DIP Tools Klebefix? (mentioned in my last email). Has anyone here used it? Thanks. On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 9:33 PM cheater00 cheater00 < cheater00@...> wrote: Thanks. I checked them out. I wasn't able to find a place that actually sells them - do you have a lead? It needs to be in Europe because importing chemicals from outside Europe is pretty much impossible. The only thing I've been able to find so far this... it says it's a highly electrically insulating, chemically curing (no need for air), two-part epoxy glue. It says it's high temperature resistant, but doesn't say what temperature exactly. On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 8:40 PM Reginald Beardsley via Groups.Io <pulaskite@...> wrote: Take a look at these: All of them are rated to above the eutectic of lead tin solder.
machineguy59 Member Profile All Messages By This Member #156697 Cheeter Wrote: "I don't think you understand. The trace is lifted, and to the lifted trace is connected the pad (also lifted), and the part is soldered to that lifted pad and in the air. I need to glue the whole assembly down." I do understand.? But I think you will eventually want to solder on this pad.? I always plan ahead for that.? I would press the pad into place, add a jumper wire along the pad trace to a nearby solid pad, then embed the entire length in epoxy. toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Friday, May 3, 2019, 02:31:57 PM CDT, cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote: On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 5:04 PM machineguy59 via Groups.Io <machineguy59@...> wrote: ? I have tried CA glue on a lifted pad.? It stuck at first but failed immediately when barely touched with a soldering iron.? In your case the continuity is already there and you might risk not re-soldering that pad (for now).? But I, personally, do not feel that is acceptable in my equipment. I heard that from others as well. So that completely rules out CA glue. I have used epoxy and it works but even then a very long dwell with a soldering iron makes it goo, not glue. I don't think you understand. The trace is lifted, and to the lifted trace is connected the pad (also lifted), and the part is soldered to that lifted pad and in the air. I need to glue the whole assembly down. ? ? On Friday, May 3, 2019, 09:21:51 AM CDT, cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote: ? Thanks for the ideas. Tge trackbis just lifted, there is no break. It's flexible, held together by the conformal coating, and there's continuity. So, I want to glue it down. I don't think it would be possible to get epoxy under there, as I don't think it will wick. However CA glue will. What do you think of that? On Fri, 3 May 2019, 15:56 Brendan via Groups.Io <the_infinite_penguin= [email protected] wrote: On Fri, May? 3, 2019 at 06:29 AM, cheater cheater wrote: I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder? on the sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks. This is what I use. It is actually a pcb over coat epoxy but it seems to stand up well to heat.
Szabolcs Szigeti All Messages By This Member #156698 Hi, You can use heat-cure epoxy such as this one: . You need to bake the board for the epoxy to cure. I would never use CA, that makes tear-gas like horrible fumes when heated during soldering. Szabolcs cheater cheater <cheater00@...> ezt írta (id?pont: 2019. máj. 3., P, 16:21): toggle quoted message Show quoted text Thanks for the ideas. Tge trackbis just lifted, there is no break. It's flexible, held together by the conformal coating, and there's continuity. So, I want to glue it down. I don't think it would be possible to get epoxy under there, as I don't think it will wick. However CA glue will. What do you think of that? On Fri, 3 May 2019, 15:56 Brendan via Groups.Io <the_infinite_penguin= [email protected] wrote: On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 06:29 AM, cheater cheater wrote: I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks. This is what I use. It is actually a pcb over coat epoxy but it seems to stand up well to heat.
J. L. Trantham All Messages By This Member #156699 Stefan, I had a problem with a 53132A (if I remember correctly) where the display disconnects from the mother board and had to 're-glue' the connector on the display board. I used Hardman # 04004 and it worked perfectly. You can check it out here: Hope this helps. Good luck. Joe toggle quoted message Show quoted text -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of stefan_trethan Sent: Friday, May 03, 2019 8:38 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [TekScopes] [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace? Epoxy would be much better. Probably still won't survive direct soldering (most fast cure epoxy glues don't have the same heat resistance as PCB material), but it will anchor the connector better than CA. With lifted pads or broken tracks it is always preferable to use a bit of wire and make a connection to the next pad, or at least a substantial undamaged stretch of track, rather than attempting a repair directly at the lifted pad / break. ST On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 3:29 PM cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote: I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks.
J. L. Trantham All Messages By This Member #156700 Oops. That was meant for Cheater. Cheater, if you only need one packet, I can send you one. Joe toggle quoted message Show quoted text -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of J. L. Trantham Sent: Friday, May 03, 2019 5:20 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [TekScopes] [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace? Stefan, I had a problem with a 53132A (if I remember correctly) where the display disconnects from the mother board and had to 're-glue' the connector on the display board. I used Hardman # 04004 and it worked perfectly. You can check it out here: Hope this helps. Good luck. Joe -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of stefan_trethan Sent: Friday, May 03, 2019 8:38 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [TekScopes] [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace? Epoxy would be much better. Probably still won't survive direct soldering (most fast cure epoxy glues don't have the same heat resistance as PCB material), but it will anchor the connector better than CA. With lifted pads or broken tracks it is always preferable to use a bit of wire and make a connection to the next pad, or at least a substantial undamaged stretch of track, rather than attempting a repair directly at the lifted pad / break. ST On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 3:29 PM cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote: I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks.

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[OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?