A good structural epoxy, designed to join the materials in use, can be very
strong. PWBs are made of fiberglass and epoxy resin. I've held down heavy
parts to PWBs in extreme vibration. Unfortunately, I can't suggest a
specific epoxy as what I used to use was proprietary to the company and I
do not know the manufacturer anyway.
You can get data sheets from the manufacturers that will tell you what
materials it can join and how long the opened package will last. Look for
the TDS and SDS from the manufacturer. They will also have selector guides.
I wish I could be of more help and have a specific epoxy to suggest.
Regards,
Mark
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On Sun, May 5, 2019 at 8:34 AM cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote:
Ouch, I'll steer clear then! Thanks!
On Sun, May 5, 2019 at 2:52 AM Daveolla <grobbins@...> wrote:
Greetings, I dunno how much I would trust a glue to hold down the
connector . From looking at the picture I would be inclined to drill
a fine hole on either side of the pin or pins and tie it down with a
copper wire and then solder it to the pin to remove any slack in the
tiedown. Or a single hole for each pin and push a sewing pin thru
the hole with the head of the pin on the other side of the board (pin
head bigger than the hole) and curl the other end over the connector
pin , nip it off and solder out any slack
If there is something on the other side of the board that would be
shorted to the pin, a few wraps of thread could also hold things down
and give the thread a drip of CA glue to harden up
thread. Presumably the connector pins are supposed to hold the
connector down but perhaps the plastic connector body could be
tacked down with variations of the above techniques and relieve the
pins from that duty.
And like other have said, getting CA glue fumes from soldering in
yours eyes is a real eye sore! Your eye muscles will shut your eyes
so tight the sun won't make it thru!!!
Dave
Here you go!
On Sat, 4 May 2019, 14:02 Adrian <Adrian@... wrote:
okay, help me out here because I'm confused/bemused by 25+ posts
about
high temp glue needed to hold down a connector on a PCB so I've
obviously missed something!
First off, am I right in that:
a) A (thru-hole?) internal connector has come off a PCB and busted a
ground pin in the process.
b) It left (one?) other pin still electrically connected to its pad
and
trace but those have peeled of the surface of the board.
c) You think can reposition the connector to the board and sort the
ground pin by somehow re-soldering it
d) You believe you can add glue (epoxy) around the connector to
secure
it to the PCB.
If the above is correct why do you need glue for a trace that can
withstand soldering temperatures - the trace/PCB bond cannot be
adding
to the retention of the connector against connection/disconnection
forces - so why not re-position/solder everything then add the epoxy
when you're done and brush on a bit of conformal coat or wire-tak or
something to protect/secure the 'loose' trace?
BTW you know that saying " A picture is worth a thousand words"?
That is
very true in cases like this!
Adrian
On 5/4/2019 9:20 AM, cheater cheater wrote:
Thanks. This is an internal plug which is not accessible from the
outside.
On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 3:06 AM John Kolb <jlkolb@...>
wrote:
After repair, I would suggest a short extension cable left
attached to
the equipment, so all plugging/inplugging stresses are moved to
the end
of the extender.
Jophn
On 5/3/2019 6:28 AM, cheater cheater wrote:
I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part
is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket
for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will
have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off,
so the
glue
has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural
solder on
the
sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than
that?
Thanks.
