开云体育

Oops.

That was meant for Cheater. Cheater, if you only need one packet, I can send you one.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of J. L. Trantham
Sent: Friday, May 03, 2019 5:20 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?

Stefan,

I had a problem with a 53132A (if I remember correctly) where the display disconnects from the mother board and had to 're-glue' the connector on the display board.

I used Hardman # 04004 and it worked perfectly.

You can check it out here:



Hope this helps.

Good luck.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of stefan_trethan
Sent: Friday, May 03, 2019 8:38 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?

Epoxy would be much better.

Probably still won't survive direct soldering (most fast cure epoxy glues
don't have the same heat resistance as PCB material), but it will anchor
the connector better than CA.

With lifted pads or broken tracks it is always preferable to use a bit of
wire and make a connection to the next pad, or at least a substantial
undamaged stretch of track, rather than attempting a repair directly at the
lifted pad / break.

ST


On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 3:29 PM cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote:

I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue
has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the
sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that?
Thanks.

Thanks, that's really kind of you. I'm afraid the shipping from the US
might be very expensive though!

Does anyone know a good place to buy suitable epoxy in Austria? It
seems I can't find anything...

On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 12:46 AM J. L. Trantham <jltran@...> wrote:

Oops.

That was meant for Cheater. Cheater, if you only need one packet, I can send you one.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of J. L. Trantham
Sent: Friday, May 03, 2019 5:20 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?

Stefan,

I had a problem with a 53132A (if I remember correctly) where the display disconnects from the mother board and had to 're-glue' the connector on the display board.

I used Hardman # 04004 and it worked perfectly.

You can check it out here:



Hope this helps.

Good luck.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of stefan_trethan
Sent: Friday, May 03, 2019 8:38 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] [OT] Best glue to repair lifted trace?

Epoxy would be much better.

Probably still won't survive direct soldering (most fast cure epoxy glues
don't have the same heat resistance as PCB material), but it will anchor
the connector better than CA.

With lifted pads or broken tracks it is always preferable to use a bit of
wire and make a connection to the next pad, or at least a substantial
undamaged stretch of track, rather than attempting a repair directly at the
lifted pad / break.

ST


On Fri, May 3, 2019 at 3:29 PM cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote:

I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue
has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the
sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that?
Thanks.

I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue
has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the
sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks.

After repair, I would suggest a short extension cable left attached to
the equipment, so all plugging/inplugging stresses are moved to the end
of the extender.

Jophn

On 5/3/2019 6:28 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue
has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the
sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks.

Thanks. This is an internal plug which is not accessible from the outside.

On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 3:06 AM John Kolb <jlkolb@...> wrote:

After repair, I would suggest a short extension cable left attached to
the equipment, so all plugging/inplugging stresses are moved to the end
of the extender.

Jophn

On 5/3/2019 6:28 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the glue
has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on the
sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that? Thanks.

okay, help me out here because I'm confused/bemused by 25+ posts about
high temp glue needed to hold down a connector on a PCB so I've
obviously missed something!

First off, am I right in that:

a) A (thru-hole?) internal connector has come off a PCB and busted a
ground pin in the process.

b) It left (one?) other pin still electrically connected to its pad and
trace but those have peeled of the surface of the board.

c) You think can reposition the connector to the board and sort the
ground pin by somehow re-soldering it

d) You believe you can add glue (epoxy) around the connector to secure
it to the PCB.

If the above is correct why do you need glue for a trace that can
withstand soldering temperatures - the trace/PCB bond cannot be adding
to the retention of the connector against connection/disconnection
forces - so why not re-position/solder everything then add the epoxy
when you're done and brush on a bit of conformal coat or wire-tak or
something to protect/secure the 'loose' trace?

BTW you know that saying " A picture is worth a thousand words"? That is
very true in cases like this!

Adrian

On 5/4/2019 9:20 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

Thanks. This is an internal plug which is not accessible from the

outside.

On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 3:06 AM John Kolb <jlkolb@...> wrote:

After repair, I would suggest a short extension cable left attached to
the equipment, so all plugging/inplugging stresses are moved to the end
of the extender.

Jophn

On 5/3/2019 6:28 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the

glue

has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on

the

sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that?

Thanks.

Here you go!

On Sat, 4 May 2019, 14:02 Adrian <Adrian@... wrote:

okay, help me out here because I'm confused/bemused by 25+ posts about
high temp glue needed to hold down a connector on a PCB so I've
obviously missed something!

First off, am I right in that:

a) A (thru-hole?) internal connector has come off a PCB and busted a
ground pin in the process.

b) It left (one?) other pin still electrically connected to its pad and
trace but those have peeled of the surface of the board.

c) You think can reposition the connector to the board and sort the
ground pin by somehow re-soldering it

d) You believe you can add glue (epoxy) around the connector to secure
it to the PCB.

If the above is correct why do you need glue for a trace that can
withstand soldering temperatures - the trace/PCB bond cannot be adding
to the retention of the connector against connection/disconnection
forces - so why not re-position/solder everything then add the epoxy
when you're done and brush on a bit of conformal coat or wire-tak or
something to protect/secure the 'loose' trace?

BTW you know that saying " A picture is worth a thousand words"? That is
very true in cases like this!

Adrian

On 5/4/2019 9:20 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

Thanks. This is an internal plug which is not accessible from the

outside.

On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 3:06 AM John Kolb <jlkolb@...>

wrote:

After repair, I would suggest a short extension cable left attached to
the equipment, so all plugging/inplugging stresses are moved to the

end

of the extender.

Jophn

On 5/3/2019 6:28 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is

still

attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the

glue

has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on

the

sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that?

Thanks.

Here you go!

On Sat, 4 May 2019, 14:02 Adrian <Adrian@... wrote:

okay, help me out here because I'm confused/bemused by 25+ posts about
high temp glue needed to hold down a connector on a PCB so I've
obviously missed something!

First off, am I right in that:

a) A (thru-hole?) internal connector has come off a PCB and busted a
ground pin in the process.

b) It left (one?) other pin still electrically connected to its pad and
trace but those have peeled of the surface of the board.

c) You think can reposition the connector to the board and sort the
ground pin by somehow re-soldering it

d) You believe you can add glue (epoxy) around the connector to secure
it to the PCB.

If the above is correct why do you need glue for a trace that can
withstand soldering temperatures - the trace/PCB bond cannot be adding
to the retention of the connector against connection/disconnection
forces - so why not re-position/solder everything then add the epoxy
when you're done and brush on a bit of conformal coat or wire-tak or
something to protect/secure the 'loose' trace?

BTW you know that saying " A picture is worth a thousand words"? That is
very true in cases like this!

Adrian

On 5/4/2019 9:20 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

Thanks. This is an internal plug which is not accessible from the

outside.

On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 3:06 AM John Kolb <jlkolb@...> wrote:

After repair, I would suggest a short extension cable left attached to
the equipment, so all plugging/inplugging stresses are moved to the end
of the extender.

Jophn

On 5/3/2019 6:28 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the

glue

has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on

the

sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that?

Thanks.

Glue it back - remove all debris first.
After that I would reinforce the connections with a wire - solder onto
existing traces.

I'm thinking that there is a problem with the connector - why would it
brake in the first place?

On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 7:23 AM cheater cheater <cheater00@...> wrote:

Here you go!

On Sat, 4 May 2019, 14:02 Adrian <Adrian@... wrote:

okay, help me out here because I'm confused/bemused by 25+ posts about
high temp glue needed to hold down a connector on a PCB so I've
obviously missed something!

First off, am I right in that:

a) A (thru-hole?) internal connector has come off a PCB and busted a
ground pin in the process.

b) It left (one?) other pin still electrically connected to its pad and
trace but those have peeled of the surface of the board.

c) You think can reposition the connector to the board and sort the
ground pin by somehow re-soldering it

d) You believe you can add glue (epoxy) around the connector to secure
it to the PCB.

If the above is correct why do you need glue for a trace that can
withstand soldering temperatures - the trace/PCB bond cannot be adding
to the retention of the connector against connection/disconnection
forces - so why not re-position/solder everything then add the epoxy
when you're done and brush on a bit of conformal coat or wire-tak or
something to protect/secure the 'loose' trace?

BTW you know that saying " A picture is worth a thousand words"? That is
very true in cases like this!

Adrian

On 5/4/2019 9:20 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

Thanks. This is an internal plug which is not accessible from the

outside.

On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 3:06 AM John Kolb <jlkolb@...>

wrote:

After repair, I would suggest a short extension cable left attached to
the equipment, so all plugging/inplugging stresses are moved to the

end

of the extender.

Jophn

On 5/3/2019 6:28 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is

still

attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the

glue

has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on

the

sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that?

Thanks.

That's the plan, unfortunately I can't find an acceptable source of
high temperature resistant, electrically insulating epoxy in Austria.
The closest is in Germany, but that's still 10 euro shipping.

Silicone will rip with mechanical stress. Epoxy is much stronger.

Regards,

Mark
W7MLG

On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 8:56 AM Brad Thompson <brad.thompsonaa1ip@...>
wrote:

cheater cheater wrote on 5/4/2019 10:15 AM:

That's the plan, unfortunately I can't find an acceptable source of
high temperature resistant, electrically insulating epoxy in Austria.
The closest is in Germany, but that's still 10 euro shipping.

On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 2:54 PM Tony Fleming <czecht@...> wrote:
<snip>

Hello--

Do you have automobile-supply stores in Austria such as this one...


<>
If so, you might investigate whether they sell high-temperature silicone
gasket sealant such as...




This might do the job.

73--

Brad AA1IP

Silicone will rip with mechanical stress. Epoxy is much stronger.

Regards,

Mark
W7MLG

On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 8:56 AM Brad Thompson <brad.thompsonaa1ip@...>
wrote:

cheater cheater wrote on 5/4/2019 10:15 AM:

That's the plan, unfortunately I can't find an acceptable source of
high temperature resistant, electrically insulating epoxy in Austria.
The closest is in Germany, but that's still 10 euro shipping.

On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 2:54 PM Tony Fleming <czecht@...> wrote:
<snip>

Hello--

Do you have automobile-supply stores in Austria such as this one...


<>
If so, you might investigate whether they sell high-temperature silicone
gasket sealant such as...




This might do the job.

73--

Brad? AA1IP

Here you go!

On Sat, 4 May 2019, 14:02 Adrian <Adrian@... wrote:

okay, help me out here because I'm confused/bemused by 25+ posts about
high temp glue needed to hold down a connector on a PCB so I've
obviously missed something!

First off, am I right in that:

a) A (thru-hole?) internal connector has come off a PCB and busted a
ground pin in the process.

b) It left (one?) other pin still electrically connected to its pad and
trace but those have peeled of the surface of the board.

c) You think can reposition the connector to the board and sort the
ground pin by somehow re-soldering it

d) You believe you can add glue (epoxy) around the connector to secure
it to the PCB.

If the above is correct why do you need glue for a trace that can
withstand soldering temperatures - the trace/PCB bond cannot be adding
to the retention of the connector against connection/disconnection
forces - so why not re-position/solder everything then add the epoxy
when you're done and brush on a bit of conformal coat or wire-tak or
something to protect/secure the 'loose' trace?

BTW you know that saying " A picture is worth a thousand words"? That is
very true in cases like this!

Adrian

On 5/4/2019 9:20 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

Thanks. This is an internal plug which is not accessible from the

outside.

On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 3:06 AM John Kolb <jlkolb@...> wrote:

After repair, I would suggest a short extension cable left attached to
the equipment, so all plugging/inplugging stresses are moved to the end
of the extender.

Jophn

On 5/3/2019 6:28 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the

glue

has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on

the

sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that?

Thanks.

Greetings, I dunno how much I would trust a glue to hold down the
connector . From looking at the picture I would be inclined to drill
a fine hole on either side of the pin or pins and tie it down with a
copper wire and then solder it to the pin to remove any slack in the
tiedown. Or a single hole for each pin and push a sewing pin thru
the hole with the head of the pin on the other side of the board (pin
head bigger than the hole) and curl the other end over the connector
pin , nip it off and solder out any slack

If there is something on the other side of the board that would be
shorted to the pin, a few wraps of thread could also hold things down
and give the thread a drip of CA glue to harden up
thread. Presumably the connector pins are supposed to hold the
connector down but perhaps the plastic connector body could be
tacked down with variations of the above techniques and relieve the
pins from that duty.

And like other have said, getting CA glue fumes from soldering in
yours eyes is a real eye sore! Your eye muscles will shut your eyes
so tight the sun won't make it thru!!!

Dave

Here you go!

On Sat, 4 May 2019, 14:02 Adrian <Adrian@... wrote:

okay, help me out here because I'm confused/bemused by 25+ posts about
high temp glue needed to hold down a connector on a PCB so I've
obviously missed something!

First off, am I right in that:

a) A (thru-hole?) internal connector has come off a PCB and busted a
ground pin in the process.

b) It left (one?) other pin still electrically connected to its pad and
trace but those have peeled of the surface of the board.

c) You think can reposition the connector to the board and sort the
ground pin by somehow re-soldering it

d) You believe you can add glue (epoxy) around the connector to secure
it to the PCB.

If the above is correct why do you need glue for a trace that can
withstand soldering temperatures - the trace/PCB bond cannot be adding
to the retention of the connector against connection/disconnection
forces - so why not re-position/solder everything then add the epoxy
when you're done and brush on a bit of conformal coat or wire-tak or
something to protect/secure the 'loose' trace?

BTW you know that saying " A picture is worth a thousand words"? That is
very true in cases like this!

Adrian

On 5/4/2019 9:20 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

Thanks. This is an internal plug which is not accessible from the

outside.

On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 3:06 AM John Kolb <jlkolb@...> wrote:

After repair, I would suggest a short extension cable left attached to
the equipment, so all plugging/inplugging stresses are moved to the end
of the extender.

Jophn

On 5/3/2019 6:28 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the

glue

has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on

the

sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that?

Thanks.

Ouch, I'll steer clear then! Thanks!

On Sun, May 5, 2019 at 2:52 AM Daveolla <grobbins@...> wrote:

Greetings, I dunno how much I would trust a glue to hold down the
connector . From looking at the picture I would be inclined to drill
a fine hole on either side of the pin or pins and tie it down with a
copper wire and then solder it to the pin to remove any slack in the
tiedown. Or a single hole for each pin and push a sewing pin thru
the hole with the head of the pin on the other side of the board (pin
head bigger than the hole) and curl the other end over the connector
pin , nip it off and solder out any slack

If there is something on the other side of the board that would be
shorted to the pin, a few wraps of thread could also hold things down
and give the thread a drip of CA glue to harden up
thread. Presumably the connector pins are supposed to hold the
connector down but perhaps the plastic connector body could be
tacked down with variations of the above techniques and relieve the
pins from that duty.

And like other have said, getting CA glue fumes from soldering in
yours eyes is a real eye sore! Your eye muscles will shut your eyes
so tight the sun won't make it thru!!!

Dave

Here you go!

On Sat, 4 May 2019, 14:02 Adrian <Adrian@... wrote:

okay, help me out here because I'm confused/bemused by 25+ posts about
high temp glue needed to hold down a connector on a PCB so I've
obviously missed something!

First off, am I right in that:

a) A (thru-hole?) internal connector has come off a PCB and busted a
ground pin in the process.

b) It left (one?) other pin still electrically connected to its pad and
trace but those have peeled of the surface of the board.

c) You think can reposition the connector to the board and sort the
ground pin by somehow re-soldering it

d) You believe you can add glue (epoxy) around the connector to secure
it to the PCB.

If the above is correct why do you need glue for a trace that can
withstand soldering temperatures - the trace/PCB bond cannot be adding
to the retention of the connector against connection/disconnection
forces - so why not re-position/solder everything then add the epoxy
when you're done and brush on a bit of conformal coat or wire-tak or
something to protect/secure the 'loose' trace?

BTW you know that saying " A picture is worth a thousand words"? That is
very true in cases like this!

Adrian

On 5/4/2019 9:20 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

Thanks. This is an internal plug which is not accessible from the

outside.

On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 3:06 AM John Kolb <jlkolb@...> wrote:

After repair, I would suggest a short extension cable left attached to
the equipment, so all plugging/inplugging stresses are moved to the end
of the extender.

Jophn

On 5/3/2019 6:28 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the

glue

has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on

the

sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that?

Thanks.

How long do the Loctite, MG Chemicals, Hardman, and Circuit Works
epoxy glues hold after opened? Days, months, or years? Thanks

On Sun, May 5, 2019 at 5:34 PM cheater00 cheater00 <cheater00@...> wrote:

Ouch, I'll steer clear then! Thanks!

On Sun, May 5, 2019 at 2:52 AM Daveolla <grobbins@...> wrote:

Greetings, I dunno how much I would trust a glue to hold down the
connector . From looking at the picture I would be inclined to drill
a fine hole on either side of the pin or pins and tie it down with a
copper wire and then solder it to the pin to remove any slack in the
tiedown. Or a single hole for each pin and push a sewing pin thru
the hole with the head of the pin on the other side of the board (pin
head bigger than the hole) and curl the other end over the connector
pin , nip it off and solder out any slack

If there is something on the other side of the board that would be
shorted to the pin, a few wraps of thread could also hold things down
and give the thread a drip of CA glue to harden up
thread. Presumably the connector pins are supposed to hold the
connector down but perhaps the plastic connector body could be
tacked down with variations of the above techniques and relieve the
pins from that duty.

And like other have said, getting CA glue fumes from soldering in
yours eyes is a real eye sore! Your eye muscles will shut your eyes
so tight the sun won't make it thru!!!

Dave

Here you go!

On Sat, 4 May 2019, 14:02 Adrian <Adrian@... wrote:

okay, help me out here because I'm confused/bemused by 25+ posts about
high temp glue needed to hold down a connector on a PCB so I've
obviously missed something!

First off, am I right in that:

a) A (thru-hole?) internal connector has come off a PCB and busted a
ground pin in the process.

b) It left (one?) other pin still electrically connected to its pad and
trace but those have peeled of the surface of the board.

c) You think can reposition the connector to the board and sort the
ground pin by somehow re-soldering it

d) You believe you can add glue (epoxy) around the connector to secure
it to the PCB.

If the above is correct why do you need glue for a trace that can
withstand soldering temperatures - the trace/PCB bond cannot be adding
to the retention of the connector against connection/disconnection
forces - so why not re-position/solder everything then add the epoxy
when you're done and brush on a bit of conformal coat or wire-tak or
something to protect/secure the 'loose' trace?

BTW you know that saying " A picture is worth a thousand words"? That is
very true in cases like this!

Adrian

On 5/4/2019 9:20 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

Thanks. This is an internal plug which is not accessible from the

outside.

On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 3:06 AM John Kolb <jlkolb@...> wrote:

After repair, I would suggest a short extension cable left attached to
the equipment, so all plugging/inplugging stresses are moved to the end
of the extender.

Jophn

On 5/3/2019 6:28 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the

glue

has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on

the

sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that?

Thanks.

Does anyone see a reason not to use UHU Endfest? Here's a datasheet in
English:

It looks like a good contender for an OK glue for this purpose. But I
wouldn't know what might be wrong with a glue used for glueing down
traces. Thanks.

On Sun, May 5, 2019 at 5:46 PM cheater00 cheater00 <cheater00@...> wrote:

How long do the Loctite, MG Chemicals, Hardman, and Circuit Works
epoxy glues hold after opened? Days, months, or years? Thanks

On Sun, May 5, 2019 at 5:34 PM cheater00 cheater00 <cheater00@...> wrote:

Ouch, I'll steer clear then! Thanks!

On Sun, May 5, 2019 at 2:52 AM Daveolla <grobbins@...> wrote:

Greetings, I dunno how much I would trust a glue to hold down the
connector . From looking at the picture I would be inclined to drill
a fine hole on either side of the pin or pins and tie it down with a
copper wire and then solder it to the pin to remove any slack in the
tiedown. Or a single hole for each pin and push a sewing pin thru
the hole with the head of the pin on the other side of the board (pin
head bigger than the hole) and curl the other end over the connector
pin , nip it off and solder out any slack

If there is something on the other side of the board that would be
shorted to the pin, a few wraps of thread could also hold things down
and give the thread a drip of CA glue to harden up
thread. Presumably the connector pins are supposed to hold the
connector down but perhaps the plastic connector body could be
tacked down with variations of the above techniques and relieve the
pins from that duty.

And like other have said, getting CA glue fumes from soldering in
yours eyes is a real eye sore! Your eye muscles will shut your eyes
so tight the sun won't make it thru!!!

Dave

Here you go!

On Sat, 4 May 2019, 14:02 Adrian <Adrian@... wrote:

okay, help me out here because I'm confused/bemused by 25+ posts about
high temp glue needed to hold down a connector on a PCB so I've
obviously missed something!

First off, am I right in that:

a) A (thru-hole?) internal connector has come off a PCB and busted a
ground pin in the process.

b) It left (one?) other pin still electrically connected to its pad and
trace but those have peeled of the surface of the board.

c) You think can reposition the connector to the board and sort the
ground pin by somehow re-soldering it

d) You believe you can add glue (epoxy) around the connector to secure
it to the PCB.

If the above is correct why do you need glue for a trace that can
withstand soldering temperatures - the trace/PCB bond cannot be adding
to the retention of the connector against connection/disconnection
forces - so why not re-position/solder everything then add the epoxy
when you're done and brush on a bit of conformal coat or wire-tak or
something to protect/secure the 'loose' trace?

BTW you know that saying " A picture is worth a thousand words"? That is
very true in cases like this!

Adrian

On 5/4/2019 9:20 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

Thanks. This is an internal plug which is not accessible from the

outside.

On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 3:06 AM John Kolb <jlkolb@...> wrote:

After repair, I would suggest a short extension cable left attached to
the equipment, so all plugging/inplugging stresses are moved to the end
of the extender.

Jophn

On 5/3/2019 6:28 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the

glue

has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder on

the

sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that?

Thanks.

How long do the Loctite, MG Chemicals, Hardman, and Circuit Works
epoxy glues hold after opened? Days, months, or years? Thanks

On Sun, May 5, 2019 at 5:34 PM cheater00 cheater00 <cheater00@...> wrote:

Ouch, I'll steer clear then! Thanks!

On Sun, May 5, 2019 at 2:52 AM Daveolla <grobbins@...> wrote:

Greetings, I dunno how much I would trust a glue to hold down the
connector . From looking at the picture I would be inclined to? drill
a fine hole on either side of the pin or pins and tie it down with a
copper wire and then solder it to the pin to remove any slack in the
tiedown.? Or a single hole for each pin and push a sewing pin thru
the hole with the head of the pin on the other side of the board (pin
head bigger than the hole) and curl the other end over the connector
pin , nip it off and solder out any slack

If? there is something? on the other side of the board that would be
shorted to the pin, a few wraps of thread could also hold things down
and give the thread a? drip of CA glue to? harden? up
thread.? Presumably the connector pins are supposed to hold the
connector? down but perhaps? the plastic connector body could be
tacked down with variations of the above techniques? and? relieve the
pins from that duty.

And like other have said, getting CA glue fumes from soldering? in
yours? eyes is a real eye sore! Your eye muscles will shut your eyes
so tight the sun won't make it thru!!!

Dave

Here you go!

On Sat, 4 May 2019, 14:02 Adrian <Adrian@... wrote:

okay, help me out here because I'm confused/bemused by 25+ posts about
high temp glue needed to hold down a connector on a PCB so I've
obviously missed something!

First off, am I right in that:

a) A (thru-hole?) internal connector has come off a PCB and busted a
ground pin in the process.

b) It left (one?) other pin still electrically connected to its pad and
trace but those have peeled of the surface of the board.

c) You think can reposition the connector to the board and sort the
ground pin by somehow re-soldering it

d) You believe you can add glue (epoxy) around the connector to secure
it to the PCB.

If the above is correct why do you need glue for a trace that can
withstand soldering temperatures - the trace/PCB bond cannot be adding
to the retention of the connector against connection/disconnection
forces - so why not re-position/solder everything then add the epoxy
when you're done and brush on a bit of conformal coat or wire-tak or
something to protect/secure the 'loose' trace?

BTW you know that saying " A picture is worth a thousand words"? That is
very true in cases like this!

Adrian

On 5/4/2019 9:20 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

Thanks. This is an internal plug which is not accessible from the

outside.

On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 3:06 AM John Kolb <jlkolb@...> wrote:

After repair, I would suggest a short extension cable left attached to
the equipment, so all plugging/inplugging stresses are moved to the end
of the extender.

Jophn

On 5/3/2019 6:28 AM, cheater cheater wrote:

I have a piece of equipment where a trace was lifted. The part is still
attached and I would like to glue it down. The part is a socket for a
cable, and the plug is difficult to insert and remove. I will have to
solder the other pin which is the ground plane, and broke off, so the

glue

has to survive that. I'll also need to add some structural solder? on

the

sides. Is cyanoacrylate a good idea here? Anything better than that?

Thanks.