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Plug for 7CT1N captive lead?
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The plug has finally broken off the captive lead on my 7CT1N, the one that goes out to a vertical amp or time-base depending on which side you have it installed. I'm sure I'm not the first victim of this. I can obviously replace it with an ordinary BNC plug, and am doing so temporarily (I hope), but it rattles around etc., and it also has a redundant earth connection. I'm wondering if there is something more suitable, short of the unobtainium (I presume) entire 195-0095-00 assembly, that is maybe made of plastic and/or only has the inner connecting ring.
Thanks in advance EJP |
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Have you thought about cutting off the outer part of the new BNC connector?
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Dave Casey On Sun, Aug 25, 2019 at 1:21 AM EJP <esmond.pitt@...> wrote:
The plug has finally broken off the captive lead on my 7CT1N, the one that |
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When I went to put on a standard soldered BNC plug I found there is no shielding in the cable, only a pretty thick set of strands for the inner conductor, so I was unable to even fix the outer cover on. So I settled for just the pin. I'm not happy with it, as it is uninsulated: gaffer tape awaits, but also a better solution, if there is one.
EJP |
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Something like an RG58 crimp BNC plug and remove the outer locking ring (with extreme prejudice) looks like it would work on mine, feed the wire through the shield 'spigot' and secure with RTV or even lightly crimp it to the jacket and then a bit of heat-shrink?
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On 8/25/2019 7:21 AM, EJP wrote:
The plug has finally broken off the captive lead on my 7CT1N, the one that goes out to a vertical amp or time-base depending on which side you have it installed. I'm sure I'm not the first victim of this. I can obviously replace it with an ordinary BNC plug, and am doing so temporarily (I hope), but it rattles around etc., and it also has a redundant earth connection. I'm wondering if there is something more suitable, short of the unobtainium (I presume) entire 195-0095-00 assembly, that is maybe made of plastic and/or only has the inner connecting ring. |
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Hi,
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I¡¯d never heard of ¡®gaffer tape¡±. Why not just plane plastic electrical tape? Larry On Aug 25, 2019, at 5:37 AM, EJP <esmond.pitt@...> wrote: |
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I'm sorry, I forgot that attachments are not allowed. I will upload it somewhere and I'll send the link.
El 25/08/2019 a las 19:11, EB4APL via Groups.Io escribi¨®: Could this be used? It is with me more than 40 years, probably it was--- El software de antivirus Avast ha analizado este correo electr¨®nico en busca de virus. |
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Maybe it can be seen from here:
Regards, Ignacio EB4APL El 25/08/2019 a las 19:14, EB4APL escribi¨®: I'm sorry, I forgot that attachments are not allowed. I will upload it somewhere and I'll send the link.--- El software de antivirus Avast ha analizado este correo electr¨®nico en busca de virus. |
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The low 100 mV / division vertical sensitivity, a very low operating frequency and the shortness of the lead are the reasons why Tek did not shield this connection.
Anything that completes the circuit to the center pin is sufficient. I suggest soldering or crimping a pin on the end of the lead, followed by several layers of gradually larger shrink tubing to provide a handle and stop the lead from falling inside the 7CT1N when retracted. A rigid plastic probe handle cut short and epoxy (JB Weld?) might also work. At a maximum voltage of 0.8 volts, there should be no safety issues. Regards, Cliff Carrie ________________________________ From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of EB4APL <eb4apl@...> Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2019 1:16 PM To: [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [TekScopes] Plug for 7CT1N captive lead? Maybe it can be seen from here: Regards, Ignacio EB4APL El 25/08/2019 a las 19:14, EB4APL escribi¨®: I'm sorry, I forgot that attachments are not allowed. I will upload it--- El software de antivirus Avast ha analizado este correo electr¨®nico en busca de virus. |
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I have used some ordinary RG218 cable and BNC connector & left the shield unconnected on my 5CT1N. Works like a charm.
Cheers, Magnus? Maybe it can be seen from here: Regards, Ignacio EB4APL El 25/08/2019 a las 19:14, EB4APL escribi¨®: I'm sorry, I forgot that attachments are not allowed. I will upload it--- El software de antivirus Avast ha analizado este correo electr¨®nico en busca de virus. |
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Gaffer tape (or Gaff tape) is used in studios, sets and theaters for EVERYTHING.? It's like duct tape, but holds better, tears better, feels better, etc, and tends not to leave a mess behind if you leave on too long.? It can also be really pricey.
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-Dave On Sunday, August 25, 2019, 05:45:02 AM PDT, Lawrance A. Schneider <llaassllaaass@...> wrote:
Hi, I¡¯d never heard of ¡®gaffer tape¡±.? Why not just plane plastic electrical tape? Larry On Aug 25, 2019, at 5:37 AM, EJP <esmond.pitt@...> wrote: |
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Thank you, larry
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On Aug 25, 2019, at 3:16 PM, Dave Seiter <d.seiter@...> wrote: |
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Roy Morgan
Roy sends.
On Aug 25, 2019, at 3:16 PM, Dave Seiter <d.seiter@...> wrote:In filmmaking, the ¡°gaffer¡± is the head electrician and/or lighting designer. I somewhat reluctantly add: If it should move and doesn¡¯t, use WD-40 If it moves and shouldn¡¯t, use duct tape |
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Brute force helps! I have a memory of doing it many years ago by turning off the peaned over bit at the back of the locking ring but without a lathe you can just start filing and/or cutting the ring till you can split it off. It¡¯s loose and made of brass so it should give up without too much of a fight!
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Adrian Sent from an I-thingy On 25 Aug 2019, at 23:17, EJP <esmond.pitt@...> wrote: |
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You can grind off the crimp where the outer ring holds a washer and a
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spring in place. Some can be clipped with heavy diagonal cutters, since the crimp weakens the brass.A cutoff wheel in a Dremel or similar Roto-tool works OK, as well.stick it on a BNC jack to hold it in place. A jack with a square flange can be rotated as you cut each 90 degrees. A small drill press vice is handy for tasks like this. I've used one to make cables for decades. :) On Sun, Aug 25, 2019 at 6:17 PM EJP <esmond.pitt@...> wrote:
'Gaffer tape' was a joke actually. I will use heatshrink tubing on it. |
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Hi EJP,
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I can send you a new one for $15. Contact me OFF LIST if you want it at dennis at ridesoft dot com. Dennis Tillman W7PF -----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of EJP Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2019 11:21 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [TekScopes] Plug for 7CT1N captive lead? The plug has finally broken off the captive lead on my 7CT1N, the one that goes out to a vertical amp or time-base depending on which side you have it installed. I'm sure I'm not the first victim of this. I can obviously replace it with an ordinary BNC plug, and am doing so temporarily (I hope), but it rattles around etc., and it also has a redundant earth connection. I'm wondering if there is something more suitable, short of the unobtainium (I presume) entire 195-0095-00 assembly, that is maybe made of plastic and/or only has the inner connecting ring. Thanks in advance EJP -- Dennis Tillman W7PF TekScopes Moderator |
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There appears to be two variants of this captive lead. The picture in my manual shows an in-line white plastic "plug", as does Tekwiki. It is given as p/n 195-0095-00 "Lead, test: BNC" and the manual also lists p/n 348-0301-00 "grommet: plastic, 0.312 ID x 0.43 inch OD" associated with the lead. However, my 7CT1N has a black lead with a double-ended connector forming a tee with the lead. One end mates with a BNC male, the other with a BNC female, but still only one connection, no shield. I might add that I purchased the 7CT1N from Dennis Tillman about a year ago.
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Colin. -----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of EJP Sent: 25 August 2019 07:21 To: [email protected] Subject: [TekScopes] Plug for 7CT1N captive lead? The plug has finally broken off the captive lead on my 7CT1N, the one that goes out to a vertical amp or time-base depending on which side you have it installed. I'm sure I'm not the first victim of this. I can obviously replace it with an ordinary BNC plug, and am doing so temporarily (I hope), but it rattles around etc., and it also has a redundant earth connection. I'm wondering if there is something more suitable, short of the unobtainium (I presume) entire 195-0095-00 assembly, that is maybe made of plastic and/or only has the inner connecting ring. Thanks in advance EJP |
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Hi Colin,
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Those 7CT1N captive leads are problematic. I've fixed several 7CT1Ns and they almost all had bad cables. By now most of insulation on the cables has gotten brittle and is cracking. The plug on the end gets banged around and twisted and/or bent which stresses the strands inside until they start breaking. I don't think the design engineers realized they would have a 50+ year useful life. Somewhere along the way I realized I was going to need those cables. I think I bought a bunch from Deane Kidd but it was so long ago that I can't recall where they came from for sure. Esmond's replacement cable is on the way to him. Dennis Tillman W7PF -----Original Message-----
From: Colin Herbert Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2019 10:42 AM There appears to be two variants of this captive lead. The picture in my manual shows an in-line white plastic "plug", as does Tekwiki. It is given as p/n 195-0095-00 "Lead, test: BNC" and the manual also lists p/n 348-0301-00 "grommet: plastic, 0.312 ID x 0.43 inch OD" associated with the lead. However, my 7CT1N has a black lead with a double-ended connector forming a tee with the lead. One end mates with a BNC male, the other with a BNC female, but still only one connection, no shield. I might add that I purchased the 7CT1N from Dennis Tillman about a year ago. Colin. -----Original Message----- From: EJP Sent: 25 August 2019 07:21 The plug has finally broken off the captive lead on my 7CT1N, the one that goes out to a vertical amp or time-base depending on which side you have it installed. I'm sure I'm not the first victim of this. I can obviously replace it with an ordinary BNC plug, and am doing so temporarily (I hope), but it rattles around etc., and it also has a redundant earth connection. I'm wondering if there is something more suitable, short of the unobtainium (I presume) entire 195-0095-00 assembly, that is maybe made of plastic and/or only has the inner connecting ring. Thanks in advance EJP -- Dennis Tillman W7PF TekScopes Moderator |
Michael A. Terrell
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