开云体育

I'd agree with this. I used to have a 465M and it was a pretty good
scope. You can get them dirt cheap on Ebay. For the original
poster, if you're comfortable designing, building, and debugging
audio stuff, you shouldn't have much trouble fixing any issues on a
465M. The horizontal and vertical sections are easily removed
(unlike the other 460-series scopes). The only problem mine had,
which I've seen other people post similar symptoms for, was the
sweep trace was horizontally compressed. The problem was with a
capacitor in the power supply causing one of the DC supply rails to
be both too low, and not DC.

Dan

--- In TekScopes@..., <bhaskins@...> wrote:

For a real bargain look at a 465M, much better that either of
those two, I've owned both, and much more portable than
the 76 series.
The 465M is a real sleeper... a great scope except when you want
to sell one.
I like my 7623a very much except when I need to carry it
somewhere.

This is my first post to this group. I build DIY audio for

myself and

the more I read/talk to individuals it seems like an Oscope

should

definitely be on my list of things to purchase. Honestly, I

can't tell

you why I would need a 4-channel vs. a 2-channel scope other

than 4 is

greater than 2. But I would be interested in your comments. I

am

interested in the 2465B but it seems like prices range from

$150 -

$1200. If someone can point me in the right direction, I would

really

appreciate it. BTW, I'm guessing that all of you would

recommend that

buying an Oscope from eBay (as my first Oscope) would not be
recommended. :) Please let me know if you disagree. Also, my

budget

is between $200-$300.

Oh no... it just so happens my wife and I are traveling to
Vancouver next week, but I'm sure she would not be interested in
taking a day from our vacation to drive to Kelowna to pick up old
electronics parts! :-)

Maybe some people in the Seattle area will be interested in driving
up there.

--- In TekScopes@..., "wshawlee2" <walter2@...> wrote:

I don't have time or desire to pack and ship it, but for anybody
thinking of trip up this way to beautiful BC (Kelowna), let me

know,

and I will start a pile for you. contact me off list for more
details. even with thousands of feet of space, and two storage
buildings, we are just out of space, so some stuff has to die.

This is

the moment.

Hello:
I need to verify the wiring to the fan on the Tek 453 which I just
acquired as first scope. Works fine, but fan bearings were dry. Got it
going but cannot verify with certainty the solder points for the green
and black fan leads. There is a broken solder point at the forward most
of two contacts just to the left as viewed from the front. Behind this
is another contact where blue and blue/white are soldered.

I am assuming (no manuals yet) that green and black leads broke off
from the front most contact. Naturally, I would like to verify this
before re-soldering.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

John

I tried that today and it works quite well once you know what to do.

Connect vertical output to line level input of a regular stereo
receiver or amplifier, plug in the headphones.
Digital storage OFF. Get in close to the signal of interest, changing
spans as you get closer, switch to manual sweep, and at suitably high
resolution modes, tune in on the signal. Going to manual sweep
makes this fast and easy, and you don't even have to go to zero span,
but of course, going to zero span and entering oscilloscope mode can
assist you to get optimized signal quality, not clipping on either
the top or the bottom of the waveform.

I went signal hunting in several ranges and started with the local FM
radio stations for a wideband signal introduction, then went to the
VHF weather radio station at 162.55 MHz, then went into the aircraft
band (108-136 MHz) to try to track down some aircraft transmissions
with limited success, and then went down to the AM radio band, and
then found some amateur radio traffic around 14.3 MHz, voice and CW
both. And a few assorted international stations in various parts of
the HF bands, too. Switching the bandwidth filters allowed me to
get good recovered audio quality on every signal I tuned in. Having
very good headphones and a nice amp certainly didn't hurt.


I'd guess there are some limitations on what you can get out of the
video output. I can't imagine that it really has the bandwidth
necessary in order to, for example, be usable as a video source
with an external output. (Say I tuned in a TV station at the
appropriate bandwidth setting.)


CJ





--- In TekScopes@..., "Stan and Patricia Griffiths"
<w7ni@...> wrote:

Hi Chris,



I used to demo the 492 as a "receiver that looks like a scope".

This made

it much easier for the average person who was not familiar with spectrum
analyzers to quickly grasp how it worked. I used the video output

to drive

a Radio Shack telephone amplifier by plugging the video out directly

into

the suction cup microphone input on the amp and I think the levels

are just

fine. The Radio Shack telephone amp is powered by a 9 volt battery

so it is

portable and cheap. Use zero span and slope detection for FM

signals and

peak detection for AM signals. At shows where I was exhibiting more

than

one spectrum analyzer, the 492 provided the audio for a TV signal

and the

2710 provided the video. For those of you who may not know, you can
actually get a TV picture to display on the screen of a 2710 spectrum
analyzer. The biggest complaint about this was that it was not in

"color".

My response was that "green is a color".



Stan

Aaaah.... empirical design. This always works.

On Tue, 06 Feb 2007 19:33:21 +0100, J Forster <jfor@...> wrote:

My reading was the guy was looking for a first scope for audio. I think
it would be an error to get a 7A22 instead of a 7A18 or 7A26.

Maybe if it was a "instead" question it would be an error, but luckily it is only "what first", standard PIs are cheap.

I would expect the MF will come with some useful plugins (or it may not if it is a bargain, i recently saw a 7603 with a logic analyzer inside go for coins, in the US). The rest of the PIs will have to be bought as needed.

If it was a normal scope, you'd be stuck with the simple inputs you got. Let's go and worship our 7k scopes a little, they deserve it. Maybe another capacitor offering is due ;-)

ST

Greetings etc



I have a late model 7704A & an earlier manual. BAMA is no help.

Z axis board is suffix 01, my manual is for suffix 00.

Suffix 01 board shows an additional trim pot immediately below R171, the Geometry trimmer.

Additional trim pot obscures the screen printed board ID, but I think it is a variable version of R175 fixed @ 2k2 on the suffix 00 board.



Naturally my manual is silent on incorporating this variable into the calibration process.



Can anyone help please?



Chris HJ


--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.25/669 - Release Date: 04/02/2007 21:58

Hi Walter

The 11K vertical plug ins are not simple.

Most will give you 1% or much better accuracy.

The plug in data and cal info is read by the mainframe on power up so
you need intelligent plug in's

Tek only made various vertical amps 11A52 & 71 are limited in use as
they were the first units available.

If I was buying a system I would want a DSA602A with 1 x 11A72 (2ch 1GHz
50 ohm), 1 x 11A33 (full differential to 200MHz) and a 11A34 (400MHz 4ch
1M ohm/50R)

This would give you maximum flexibility in a system.



The early mainframes has poor digitizing rates (10MS/s),(11401,11402)

If you want a 2467 in a mainframe buy a 11301/2/A (can't see much value
personally).



Sampling was available in 11800/CSA series - a lot better than the 7K
systems which can be a pain to trigger.



Only vertical amps were available as specan's and samplers have their
own sweep/timebases.



You can run a 7K vertical in the 11K - just cut off a plastic protrusion
at the rear of the plug in.

You also need to tell the mainframe that you have a module in a specific
slot as it can't see the module (no smarts).

You also don't get vertical scaling - it reads U (units) - only really
useful for 7K standardisers during cal (you need 3 modded to -10)



I have a nice 11403A/11A81 in my home workshop - it is good to 3GHz and
can take the other modules.

It's probably the newest mainframe too.



Major downside to 11K is they take up a large area on the bench and are
a two man lift to be safe.



Still they are very useful and we use a DSA602A every week in the
workshop for cal of video gear and other high bandwidth/accuracy work.

Does a great job on serial digital video data streams.





As for the 2505/10 - have nothing and have not seen one for 10 years -
you can buy a USB NI module now with 16 bit analogue I/O for about $700
so most people have gone that way.



Personally any of the Tek gear with computers dates fast and is
difficult to support - one advantage of the older gear is it still works
and performs decades after it was built - can't see a TDS7000 being any
value after 10 years (if it will still work)



Regards,



Denis

________________________________

From: TekScopes@... [mailto:TekScopes@...] On
Behalf Of wshawlee2
Sent: Wednesday, 7 February 2007 3:36 AM
To: TekScopes@...
Subject: [TekScopes] 11K Series question, is there anything other than
11A plug ins?



I have never seen one, but I can't help but wonder, does any plug in
exist for the 11K series of frames OTHER than a simple vertical
11A-series unit?

sweep is internal to the frame, so I can't see any use for a sweep,
but curve tracer, logic analyzer of spectrum analyzer, maybe? Has
anybody run 7K plug in there with much luck? I have noted some
earlier postings with comments that they do function, but with no
remote control or readout.

Anyway, I got a few 11K frames and plug ins, and am going to start
tinkering, so I'm happy to hear from anybody that has experience with
these.

ALSO, still trying to find 2505 software and 25A series plug-ins, if
you can help, please let me know,
all the best,
walter
sphere research

<>

i have 2 t932a tek scopes that are excess to me
they came from the university of california
both are repaired now, the tubes are in perfect condition and i have a pdf of the service manual.
where are you located ??
im in chicago and ship ups ground
i will even guarantee the scope for 30 days
$75 plus shipping??
a 40 mhz dual trace scope with 2mv div sensitivity

Hello Michael,
Also measure the unregulated voltages at the filter caps. (Values on
the schematics are only crude indications). Low values might
indicate bridge faults or open filter caps or a very high load
somewhere.
I suppose you can first of all set -150V to the correct value? (Does
no harm to try this.)
I would start with the deviating +124V since this fault has the best
isolated cause: +100V is not stacked upon one of the other supplies,
the *positive* deviation cannot be due to a wrong unreg. voltage, or
a leaky bypass cap C750 or a bad regulator tube V7488. Also no load
at the +100V output seems unlikely(?). Remains specifically (I hope
to make no mistake!) the divider resistors R750/R751 and a bad V742.
The grid of V742 should be several volts negative. Also check the
voltages at the ends of these resistors are indeed the same as on
the "-150V" and "+100V" test points. When suspect, you might
exchange the 6AU6 with one of the other (say +225V) supplies.
Albert

--- In TekScopes@..., Michael Petereit
<michael.petereit@...> wrote:

Stan,

I checked the voltages:
+100V = 124V
+225V = 203V
+350V = 306V
+500V = 464V
-150V = -144V

A lot voltage is below the limits. The main supply is switched to

234V,

the current standard voltage is 235V on the power line.
I assume the rectifier might be broken. Since the hartley

oscillator is

powered by the +350V line and coupled with the +340V line according
schematics the tube might not run as expected. The frequency must

be

aroung 50kHz but I do not have a AM receiver to check ans again

the dirt

inside the scope is expecially around the HV and this oscillator

horrible.

Any other ideas about the lower voltages ?

BR,
Michael


Stan and Patricia Griffiths said the following on 05.02.2007 22:02:

Hi Michael,



If the relay is opening again after closing, it is not getting

coil

voltage from its own contacts. If you burnish (clean) the relay
contacts, it will probably hold in until the power switch is

turned off.

It is not usually necessary to check the +8650 volts on the CRT
anode. If the -1350 is present, then the +8650 will be OK. All

of

the other power supplies must be working properly before you

bother to

measure the -1350. The other supplies are: -150, +100, +225,

+350,

and +500.



Stan



-----------------------------------------------------------------

-------

I repeat, a 7603/7A18/7B53 or 465 will do just fine.

I happen to agree with you, with the proviso that a 7A22 is darned
useful
for audio.

My reading was the guy was looking for a first scope for audio. I think
it would be an error to get a 7A22 instead of a 7A18 or 7A26.

But lighten up a little is all I'm saying!

Craig

A newbie may well not discern when someone is kidding and when not, and
may be too shy or something to ask for clarification. I prefer to be
straight forward than send someone off on a wild goose chase. YMMV.

-John

I do repair the audio stuff. My recommendations are
reasonable and explained.

I don't know the high falutin stuff like yall others,
but this other stuff is my fortay.

For going out buying DVD players and such: some are
crap. For the set of live players like my Yamaha
DVD-S1200, repair is worth it!

You DO need a scope for it. I've the service manual
for it and a parts model. If you don't have a remote,
they are easy to build. To check them first, use your
scope and an IR to electrical converter.

The 7603 are awesome. However, again, the size of the
5000 series guys is just wonderful. Additionallly,
they were designed by Tek just for that purpose!

Again, the 5000 series plugins are found usually NOS
for pennies on ebay.

Later, class coming in and gotta gettem straight.

Thanks.




____________________________________________________________________________________
Want to start your own business?
Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business.

I repeat, a 7603/7A18/7B53 or 465 will do just fine.

I happen to agree with you, with the proviso that a 7A22 is darned useful
for audio.

But lighten up a little is all I'm saying!

Craig

From: "Craig Sawyers"

> NONSENSE: You can easily verify that a 7603 is basically
> working using
> it's internal calibrator. and a length of wire For most work....
> including the genesis of this thread... you don't need a lab
quality
> calibration. In fact, a 60 year old AC coupled DuMont would work
just
> fine.
>
> -John

Did you deliberately miss the smiley and general tongue in cheek
nature of
Kuba's comment, or did it just go straight over your head?

Craig

I think a reasonable question from a newbie deserves a straight, fairly
simple answer, not a bunch of nit picking. I echo Stefdan's comment.

The original question was about a scope for audio and tuner alignment.

I repeat, a 7603/7A18/7B53 or 465 will do just fine. Ditto a newish
Asian scope, but IMO, the Tek stuff is likely more durable. You can fix
it and get all the doc also. Any of those options is likely better than
what a service place has.

As for fixing CD players, you don't NEED a scope. You likely will not be
able to get replacement parts or doc anyway. Toss it out and buy a new
one.

FWIW,
-John

On Tue, 06 Feb 2007 18:23:55 +0100, J Forster <jfor@...> wrote:

NONSENSE: You can easily verify that a 7603 is basically working using
it's internal calibrator. and a length of wire For most work....
including the genesis of this thread... you don't need a lab quality
calibration. In fact, a 60 year old AC coupled DuMont would work just
fine.
-John

I agree. For most work you do not need a fully calibrated scope.

ST

NONSENSE: You can easily verify that a 7603 is basically
working using
it's internal calibrator. and a length of wire For most work....
including the genesis of this thread... you don't need a lab quality
calibration. In fact, a 60 year old AC coupled DuMont would work just
fine.

-John

Did you deliberately miss the smiley and general tongue in cheek nature of
Kuba's comment, or did it just go straight over your head?

Craig

From: Kuba Ober <ober.14@...>

On Monday 05 February 2007 19:54, you wrote:
> I would recommend the 7603 with a 7B53 Time Base and a couple of
7A18
> Vertical Amps. You can get that combo for $125 or less. With the
plethora
> of other plug-ins available you would have a versatile system that
is
> easily repairable

Assuming you have approxv $1000 worth of other test equipment needed
to
recalibrate said 7603 :)

It's an easily snowballing hobby.

Cheers, Kuba



NONSENSE: You can easily verify that a 7603 is basically working using
it's internal calibrator. and a length of wire For most work....
including the genesis of this thread... you don't need a lab quality
calibration. In fact, a 60 year old AC coupled DuMont would work just
fine.

-John

On Tue, 06 Feb 2007 16:36:23 -0000, wshawlee2 <walter2@...> wrote:

I have never seen one, but I can't help but wonder, does any plug in
exist for the 11K series of frames OTHER than a simple vertical
11A-series unit?

Yes. There's the video trigger plugin (11T5H) and its 75-ohm vertical sidekick the 11A34V, at least.
To be honest, though, even as a developer of video gear for my day job, they're a bit of a luxury - there's always another way of getting the measurement made. Convenient, though.

sweep is internal to the frame, so I can't see any use for a sweep,
but curve tracer, logic analyzer of spectrum analyzer, maybe?

Not that I've seen... (although DSA has a tolerable FFT built in, for a sort-of spectrum analyser)

Has
anybody run 7K plug in there with much luck? I have noted some
earlier postings with comments that they do function, but with no
remote control or readout.

Yeah, they work fine (once you've cut the plastic peg away). You just need to train yourself to reach for the plugin, not the touchscreen, to change things. The DSA602 has noise issues with low amplitude signals, mind. My otherwise much less fun 11401 gets the 7A22 if I need a combination of low level differential and storage.

Anyway, I got a few 11K frames and plug ins, and am going to start
tinkering, so I'm happy to hear from anybody that has experience with
these.

Only got experience as a user, but I have to say, my 7K gear doesn't get a lot of use any more.

Steve

I have repaired many a TEK scope, most of the 7603's were the result of
human destruction not circuit failure. And of those not needing repair, I
have found most of them to be within tolerance and NOT needing re-cal.
Detroit should make cars as well designed and built as the 7603.

73, Dick, W1KSZ

Stan,

I checked the voltages:
+100V = 124V
+225V = 203V
+350V = 306V
+500V = 464V
-150V = -144V

A lot voltage is below the limits. The main supply is switched to 234V,
the current standard voltage is 235V on the power line.
I assume the rectifier might be broken. Since the hartley oscillator is
powered by the +350V line and coupled with the +340V line according
schematics the tube might not run as expected. The frequency must be
aroung 50kHz but I do not have a AM receiver to check ans again the dirt
inside the scope is expecially around the HV and this oscillator horrible.

Any other ideas about the lower voltages ?

BR,
Michael


Stan and Patricia Griffiths said the following on 05.02.2007 22:02: