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-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of tom
jobe
Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2018 5:34 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [TekScopes] And the winner is my "new" 7A13! Was: 7K series -
Conceptual question - What's the 3rd most useful plugin

Hi Jim,
Thank you for your summary of the voltage selector / fuse block
construction, I read your summary the first time you posted it and was
thinking some photos might be coming to fully explain it to us.
Do you think the parts would still be usable if you forced the pins out of
the block with a tool like you describe?
Thanks again for doing this investigation for us all!
tom jobe...

On 10/6/2018 5:17 PM, Jim Olson wrote:

I'm resending this as I haven't received a response so not sure it got

where it was intended.

Jim O

On October 2, 2018 at 12:23 AM Jim Olson <v_12eng@...

mailto:v_12eng@... > wrote:

George, Tom, and all,
I cut the thing apart so I know what it looks like inside the

socket bore and also the config of the socket. It is as George says it has
a three tab annular ring in a groove about three fourths of the way up
from the opening. The socket bore has a shoulder, (ridge) with square
edges both sides that the ring snaps over, the ring is split so its
springy. there is a fixed shoulder built into the socket at the wire crimp
area to rest against the ridge to stop it from going out the other end of
the block. The three tabs on the front side have a small rolled ridge
tapered front and rear to allow it to slide over the ridge inside and then
expand around the ridge to locate it in the block. tried the extractor
over the socket after it is out and there is no way to use a tubular tool
to extract it it will not slide over the tab ridge. I believe the tool
used is a tube to center the socket and then it has a pin inside used to
drive out the socket the tabs are designed to compress as it is forced out
they have a longer taper on the back ridge side than the front insert
side.

The forcing pin should be double sized a smaller guide pin to fit

inside the socket with a ridge at the larger dia to set against the socket
and force it out almost lightly tapped on the push pin to snap it over the
inside ridge some lube used maybe to assist?

Jim O

> > On September 30, 2018 at 2:47 PM "george edmonds via

Groups.Io" <G6HIG@... mailto:G6HIG@...
mailto:G6HIG@... mailto:G6HIG@... > wrote:

Hi All
I have now removed one of the sockets, they are not as

anticipated, the locking arrangement used is a floating annular ring with
three "ears". I suspect that the inside bore of the removal tool requires
a short lead in to allow the "ears" to enter the bore of the removal tool.

73 George G6HIG.


On Sunday, September 30, 2018 8:22 PM, tom jobe

<tomjobe@... mailto:tomjobe@... mailto:tomjobe@...
mailto:tomjobe@... > wrote:

Between yesterday and today I tried making an assortment of

tools that

might be able to remove the pins from the black plastic block

on a 465

that serves as the voltage range selector and fuse block.
In the end, I failed to remove a single pin, and here is the

story.

(This will be explained in inches, using common drill sizes

available

in the mostly non-metric world I live in)
I machined the tools from brass bar stock and tried various

inside and

outside dimensions on them.
The outside diameter of the tools could not exceed about

0.126" inches

where they fit into the plastic block on the back of the

scope, and the

inside diameter had to be about 0.102" inches or larger to

fit over the

pins. The next largest drill in the number drills I have is

0.104"

inches and that size hole will clear the pin's outside

diameter coming

in from the back of the scope very nicely.
A tool with these dimensions will go in about 0.450" inches,

and it is

not making hard contact with any surface except the bottom of

the recess

in the black block around the pin. From the front side of the

plastic

block you can slightly move the pin your tool is on, and

there is

clearly no hard connection between the tool and the pin.
This made me wonder if the bottom of the recess in the

plastic block was

a flat surface, so I filed a 'chisel' end on the tool so only

the point

of the chisel end would touch the bottom in any one place.

You can then

spin the tool around and feel that the bottom of the 0.126+

recess is

quite flat.
When you push any of the tools I made into the bottom of the

recess in

the plastic block, they never push hard against any surface

of the pin,

and the pin can be slight moved around in a very loose way

from the

front side where the wires come into the plastic block.
One person reported being able to take these pins out with a

tool they

have, perhaps they meant they could do that on some other

kind of

similar pin?
Another issue after one figures out how to remove these pins,

is that

some rows of pins are three pins ganged together on the back

side, so

you would need three tools for those two rows of three pins

each.

tom jobe...
PS the larger outside diameter on these pins where the wires

come in on

the front side of the block is about 0.121" inches as best i

could

measure in a crowded area.






On 9/28/2018 4:37 PM, tom jobe wrote:
> > I have been following this discussion, and today took a
4xx scope

> > > apart to study what all of you are talking about.

A Google search shows that the tools to remove these

kinds of contacts

come in many-many sizes and it seems the one closest in

size to

George's older tool has a 2.7mm hole instead of George's

2.5mm hole.

This is addition to any dimensional problems the newer

tools have. If

the hole in the tool is too large and does not squeeze

the spring

contact in far enough to release the contact from the

hole, that could

possibly be Jim's problem?
The holes in the black plastic connector block appear to

be very close

to 0.125" (1/8th of an inch) which probably will work

with the nominal

3.2mm outside diameter the tools are listed as having.
Maybe I will make some test parts on the lathe tomorrow

to see what it

takes to release those contacts.
tom jobe...
>

> > > > On 9/28/2018 11:21 AM, george edmonds via Groups.Io

wrote:

> > > > > > Hi Jim

> > > > I have a scrap 4XX scope and have tried to
remove the sockets with

the extraction tool that I have, it was a simple

matter to do so.

Be aware that most of the extraction tools that

originate in China

are dimensionally poor, at best.
The tool that I have has a spring loaded plunger

which you press and

the socket just popped out,
The extractor tube dimensions are OD 3.2mm and the

ID is 2.5mm ,

sorry as I have had this tool some 45 years I

cannot give you any

idea of the manufacturer as it is unmarked.
73 George G6HIG
> >

> > > > >>

> > >> On Friday, September 28, 2018 5:24 PM, Jim Olson

>> <v_12eng@... mailto:v_12eng@...

mailto:v_12eng@... mailto:v_12eng@... > wrote:

>>
>> Fabio,
>> Sorry I was referring to the 4xx series of scopes and the

black main

>> power connector on the back for the fuse and voltage

selector jumper.

>> I need to remove the connectors from the connector block

there is a

>> tek tool for this but can't find one so bought a pin and

socket

>> extractor set as it has the right size for the sockets. It

will slide

>> in and feels like it compresses the lock tabs but the

socket won't

>> release and slide out. So I wanted to put it to some of

the more

>> experienced folks here so anyone know this feel free to

jump in I

>> really don't want to cut off the primary wires for the

transformer as

>> the sockets are crimped and necessary and most likely hard

to find.

>>
>> Jim
>>
>>> On September 28, 2018 at 6:44 AM Fabio Trevisan
>>> <fabio.tr3visan@... mailto:fabio.tr3visan@...

mailto:fabio.tr3visan@... mailto:fabio.tr3visan@...
mailto:fabio.tr3visan@... mailto:fabio.tr3visan@...
mailto:fabio.tr3visan@... mailto:fabio.tr3visan@... > wrote:

>>>
>>>
>>> Hello Jim,
>>> I`m not quite sure abut what equipment you're talking

here?

>>> I saw a post from you about this subject some days ago

and,

>>> although I don't remember exactly about what equipment it

was, I`m

>>> confident that if it was about a model that I`m familiar

with, it

>>> would have grabbed my attention (and maybe I would have

even picked

>>> a try to answer you).
>>> Nevertheless... If you let me know the model, I can

consult the

>>> manuals / pictures and give it my shot...
>>> If it's an equipment I never had (and I only had a 464

and now

>>> this 7623A), my guess will be as good as anyone's but I

may be in a

>>> good day.
>>> Rgrds,
>>> Fabio
>>>
>>> On Thu, Sep 27, 2018 at 12:19 AM, Jim Olson wrote:
>>>
>>> >
>>>
>>> > > Fabio,
>>>> A side question here I need to remove the sockets from

the

>>>> main power
>>>> connector, (fuse block), so got some tubular connector
>>>> removal tools but when
>>>> I slide it down the socket It feels like it pushes in

the

>>>> release tabs and
>>>> stops but the socket won't pull out.
>>>> So what kind of tool do I need here to get it to

release?

>>>> It's not working
>>>> like I am used to with normal connectors!
>>>>
>>>> Jim
>>>>
>>>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> >

> > > >

> >

>

I'm resending this as I haven't received a response so not sure it got where it was intended.

Jim O

On October 2, 2018 at 12:23 AM Jim Olson <v_12eng@... mailto:v_12eng@... > wrote:


George, Tom, and all,
I cut the thing apart so I know what it looks like inside the socket bore and also the config of the socket. It is as George says it has a three tab annular ring in a groove about three fourths of the way up from the opening. The socket bore has a shoulder, (ridge) with square edges both sides that the ring snaps over, the ring is split so its springy. there is a fixed shoulder built into the socket at the wire crimp area to rest against the ridge to stop it from going out the other end of the block. The three tabs on the front side have a small rolled ridge tapered front and rear to allow it to slide over the ridge inside and then expand around the ridge to locate it in the block. tried the extractor over the socket after it is out and there is no way to use a tubular tool to extract it it will not slide over the tab ridge. I believe the tool used is a tube to center the socket and then it has a pin inside used to drive out the socket the tabs are designed to compress as it is forced out they have a longer taper on the back ridge side than the front insert side.
The forcing pin should be double sized a smaller guide pin to fit inside the socket with a ridge at the larger dia to set against the socket and force it out almost lightly tapped on the push pin to snap it over the inside ridge some lube used maybe to assist?

Jim O

> > On September 30, 2018 at 2:47 PM "george edmonds via Groups.Io" <G6HIG@... mailto:G6HIG@... mailto:G6HIG@... mailto:G6HIG@... > wrote:

Hi All
I have now removed one of the sockets, they are not as anticipated, the locking arrangement used is a floating annular ring with three "ears". I suspect that the inside bore of the removal tool requires a short lead in to allow the "ears" to enter the bore of the removal tool.
73 George G6HIG.


On Sunday, September 30, 2018 8:22 PM, tom jobe <tomjobe@... mailto:tomjobe@... mailto:tomjobe@... mailto:tomjobe@... > wrote:


Between yesterday and today I tried making an assortment of tools that
might be able to remove the pins from the black plastic block on a 465
that serves as the voltage range selector and fuse block.
In the end, I failed to remove a single pin, and here is the story.
(This will be explained in inches, using common drill sizes available
in the mostly non-metric world I live in)
I machined the tools from brass bar stock and tried various inside and
outside dimensions on them.
The outside diameter of the tools could not exceed about 0.126" inches
where they fit into the plastic block on the back of the scope, and the
inside diameter had to be about 0.102" inches or larger to fit over the
pins. The next largest drill in the number drills I have is 0.104"
inches and that size hole will clear the pin's outside diameter coming
in from the back of the scope very nicely.
A tool with these dimensions will go in about 0.450" inches, and it is
not making hard contact with any surface except the bottom of the recess
in the black block around the pin. From the front side of the plastic
block you can slightly move the pin your tool is on, and there is
clearly no hard connection between the tool and the pin.
This made me wonder if the bottom of the recess in the plastic block was
a flat surface, so I filed a 'chisel' end on the tool so only the point
of the chisel end would touch the bottom in any one place. You can then
spin the tool around and feel that the bottom of the 0.126+ recess is
quite flat.
When you push any of the tools I made into the bottom of the recess in
the plastic block, they never push hard against any surface of the pin,
and the pin can be slight moved around in a very loose way from the
front side where the wires come into the plastic block.
One person reported being able to take these pins out with a tool they
have, perhaps they meant they could do that on some other kind of
similar pin?
Another issue after one figures out how to remove these pins, is that
some rows of pins are three pins ganged together on the back side, so
you would need three tools for those two rows of three pins each.
tom jobe...
PS the larger outside diameter on these pins where the wires come in on
the front side of the block is about 0.121" inches as best i could
measure in a crowded area.






On 9/28/2018 4:37 PM, tom jobe wrote:
> > I have been following this discussion, and today took a 4xx scope

> > > apart to study what all of you are talking about.

A Google search shows that the tools to remove these kinds of contacts
come in many-many sizes and it seems the one closest in size to
George's older tool has a 2.7mm hole instead of George's 2.5mm hole.
This is addition to any dimensional problems the newer tools have. If
the hole in the tool is too large and does not squeeze the spring
contact in far enough to release the contact from the hole, that could
possibly be Jim's problem?
The holes in the black plastic connector block appear to be very close
to 0.125" (1/8th of an inch) which probably will work with the nominal
3.2mm outside diameter the tools are listed as having.
Maybe I will make some test parts on the lathe tomorrow to see what it
takes to release those contacts.
tom jobe...
>

> > > > On 9/28/2018 11:21 AM, george edmonds via Groups.Io wrote:

> > > > > > Hi Jim

> > > > I have a scrap 4XX scope and have tried to remove the sockets with

the extraction tool that I have, it was a simple matter to do so.
Be aware that most of the extraction tools that originate in China
are dimensionally poor, at best.
The tool that I have has a spring loaded plunger which you press and
the socket just popped out,
The extractor tube dimensions are OD 3.2mm and the ID is 2.5mm ,
sorry as I have had this tool some 45 years I cannot give you any
idea of the manufacturer as it is unmarked.
73 George G6HIG
> >

> > > > >>

> > >> On Friday, September 28, 2018 5:24 PM, Jim Olson

>> <v_12eng@... mailto:v_12eng@... mailto:v_12eng@... mailto:v_12eng@... > wrote:
>>
>> Fabio,
>> Sorry I was referring to the 4xx series of scopes and the black main
>> power connector on the back for the fuse and voltage selector jumper.
>> I need to remove the connectors from the connector block there is a
>> tek tool for this but can't find one so bought a pin and socket
>> extractor set as it has the right size for the sockets. It will slide
>> in and feels like it compresses the lock tabs but the socket won't
>> release and slide out. So I wanted to put it to some of the more
>> experienced folks here so anyone know this feel free to jump in I
>> really don't want to cut off the primary wires for the transformer as
>> the sockets are crimped and necessary and most likely hard to find.
>>
>> Jim
>>
>>> On September 28, 2018 at 6:44 AM Fabio Trevisan
>>> <fabio.tr3visan@... mailto:fabio.tr3visan@... mailto:fabio.tr3visan@... mailto:fabio.tr3visan@... mailto:fabio.tr3visan@... mailto:fabio.tr3visan@... mailto:fabio.tr3visan@... mailto:fabio.tr3visan@... > wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Hello Jim,
>>> I`m not quite sure abut what equipment you're talking here?
>>> I saw a post from you about this subject some days ago and,
>>> although I don't remember exactly about what equipment it was, I`m
>>> confident that if it was about a model that I`m familiar with, it
>>> would have grabbed my attention (and maybe I would have even picked
>>> a try to answer you).
>>> Nevertheless... If you let me know the model, I can consult the
>>> manuals / pictures and give it my shot...
>>> If it's an equipment I never had (and I only had a 464 and now
>>> this 7623A), my guess will be as good as anyone's but I may be in a
>>> good day.
>>> Rgrds,
>>> Fabio
>>>
>>> On Thu, Sep 27, 2018 at 12:19 AM, Jim Olson wrote:
>>>
>>> >
>>>
>>> > > Fabio,
>>>> A side question here I need to remove the sockets from the
>>>> main power
>>>> connector, (fuse block), so got some tubular connector
>>>> removal tools but when
>>>> I slide it down the socket It feels like it pushes in the
>>>> release tabs and
>>>> stops but the socket won't pull out.
>>>> So what kind of tool do I need here to get it to release?
>>>> It's not working
>>>> like I am used to with normal connectors!
>>>>
>>>> Jim
>>>>
>>>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> >

> > > >

> >

>

On September 30, 2018 at 2:47 PM "george edmonds via Groups.Io" < G6HIG@... mailto:G6HIG@... mailto: G6HIG@... mailto:G6HIG@... > wrote:


Hi All
I have now removed one of the sockets, they are not as anticipated, the locking arrangement used is a floating annular ring with three "ears". I suspect that the inside bore of the removal tool requires a short lead in to allow the "ears" to enter the bore of the removal tool.
73 George G6HIG.


On Sunday, September 30, 2018 8:22 PM, tom jobe < tomjobe@... mailto:tomjobe@... mailto: tomjobe@... mailto:tomjobe@... > wrote:


Between yesterday and today I tried making an assortment of tools that
might be able to remove the pins from the black plastic block on a 465
that serves as the voltage range selector and fuse block.
In the end, I failed to remove a single pin, and here is the story.
(This will be explained in inches, using common drill sizes available
in the mostly non-metric world I live in)
I machined the tools from brass bar stock and tried various inside and
outside dimensions on them.
The outside diameter of the tools could not exceed about 0.126" inches
where they fit into the plastic block on the back of the scope, and the
inside diameter had to be about 0.102" inches or larger to fit over the
pins. The next largest drill in the number drills I have is 0.104"
inches and that size hole will clear the pin's outside diameter coming
in from the back of the scope very nicely.
A tool with these dimensions will go in about 0.450" inches, and it is
not making hard contact with any surface except the bottom of the recess
in the black block around the pin. From the front side of the plastic
block you can slightly move the pin your tool is on, and there is
clearly no hard connection between the tool and the pin.
This made me wonder if the bottom of the recess in the plastic block was
a flat surface, so I filed a 'chisel' end on the tool so only the point
of the chisel end would touch the bottom in any one place. You can then
spin the tool around and feel that the bottom of the 0.126+ recess is
quite flat.
When you push any of the tools I made into the bottom of the recess in
the plastic block, they never push hard against any surface of the pin,
and the pin can be slight moved around in a very loose way from the
front side where the wires come into the plastic block.
One person reported being able to take these pins out with a tool they
have, perhaps they meant they could do that on some other kind of
similar pin?
Another issue after one figures out how to remove these pins, is that
some rows of pins are three pins ganged together on the back side, so
you would need three tools for those two rows of three pins each.
tom jobe...
PS the larger outside diameter on these pins where the wires come in on
the front side of the block is about 0.121" inches as best i could
measure in a crowded area.






On 9/28/2018 4:37 PM, tom jobe wrote:
> > I have been following this discussion, and today took a 4xx scope

> > apart to study what all of you are talking about.

A Google search shows that the tools to remove these kinds of contacts
come in many-many sizes and it seems the one closest in size to
George's older tool has a 2.7mm hole instead of George's 2.5mm hole.
This is addition to any dimensional problems the newer tools have. If
the hole in the tool is too large and does not squeeze the spring
contact in far enough to release the contact from the hole, that could
possibly be Jim's problem?
The holes in the black plastic connector block appear to be very close
to 0.125" (1/8th of an inch) which probably will work with the nominal
3.2mm outside diameter the tools are listed as having.
Maybe I will make some test parts on the lathe tomorrow to see what it
takes to release those contacts.
tom jobe...
>

> > > On 9/28/2018 11:21 AM, george edmonds via Groups.Io wrote:

> > > > > Hi Jim

> > > I have a scrap 4XX scope and have tried to remove the sockets with

the extraction tool that I have, it was a simple matter to do so.
Be aware that most of the extraction tools that originate in China
are dimensionally poor, at best.
The tool that I have has a spring loaded plunger which you press and
the socket just popped out,
The extractor tube dimensions are OD 3.2mm and the ID is 2.5mm ,
sorry as I have had this tool some 45 years I cannot give you any
idea of the manufacturer as it is unmarked.
73 George G6HIG
> >

> > > >>

> >> On Friday, September 28, 2018 5:24 PM, Jim Olson

>> < v_12eng@... mailto:v_12eng@... mailto: v_12eng@... mailto:v_12eng@... > wrote:
>>
>> Fabio,
>> Sorry I was referring to the 4xx series of scopes and the black main
>> power connector on the back for the fuse and voltage selector jumper.
>> I need to remove the connectors from the connector block there is a
>> tek tool for this but can't find one so bought a pin and socket
>> extractor set as it has the right size for the sockets. It will slide
>> in and feels like it compresses the lock tabs but the socket won't
>> release and slide out. So I wanted to put it to some of the more
>> experienced folks here so anyone know this feel free to jump in I
>> really don't want to cut off the primary wires for the transformer as
>> the sockets are crimped and necessary and most likely hard to find.
>>
>> Jim
>>
>>> On September 28, 2018 at 6:44 AM Fabio Trevisan
>>> < fabio.tr3visan@... mailto:fabio.tr3visan@... mailto: fabio.tr3visan@... mailto:fabio.tr3visan@... mailto: fabio.tr3visan@... mailto:fabio.tr3visan@... mailto: fabio.tr3visan@... mailto:fabio.tr3visan@... > wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Hello Jim,
>>> I`m not quite sure abut what equipment you're talking here?
>>> I saw a post from you about this subject some days ago and,
>>> although I don't remember exactly about what equipment it was, I`m
>>> confident that if it was about a model that I`m familiar with, it
>>> would have grabbed my attention (and maybe I would have even picked
>>> a try to answer you).
>>> Nevertheless... If you let me know the model, I can consult the
>>> manuals / pictures and give it my shot...
>>> If it's an equipment I never had (and I only had a 464 and now
>>> this 7623A), my guess will be as good as anyone's but I may be in a
>>> good day.
>>> Rgrds,
>>> Fabio
>>>
>>> On Thu, Sep 27, 2018 at 12:19 AM, Jim Olson wrote:
>>>
>>> >
>>>
>>> > > Fabio,
>>>> A side question here I need to remove the sockets from the
>>>> main power
>>>> connector, (fuse block), so got some tubular connector
>>>> removal tools but when
>>>> I slide it down the socket It feels like it pushes in the
>>>> release tabs and
>>>> stops but the socket won't pull out.
>>>> So what kind of tool do I need here to get it to release?
>>>> It's not working
>>>> like I am used to with normal connectors!
>>>>
>>>> Jim
>>>>
>>>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> >

> > >

>

On October 2, 2018 at 12:23 AM Jim Olson <v_12eng@... mailto:v_12eng@... > wrote:


George, Tom, and all,
I cut the thing apart so I know what it looks like inside the socket bore and also the config of the socket. It is as George says it has a three tab annular ring in a groove about three fourths of the way up from the opening. The socket bore has a shoulder, (ridge) with square edges both sides that the ring snaps over, the ring is split so its springy. there is a fixed shoulder built into the socket at the wire crimp area to rest against the ridge to stop it from going out the other end of the block. The three tabs on the front side have a small rolled ridge tapered front and rear to allow it to slide over the ridge inside and then expand around the ridge to locate it in the block. tried the extractor over the socket after it is out and there is no way to use a tubular tool to extract it it will not slide over the tab ridge. I believe the tool used is a tube to center the socket and then it has a pin inside used to drive out the socket the tabs are designed to compress as it is forced out they have a longer taper on the back ridge side than the front insert side.
The forcing pin should be double sized a smaller guide pin to fit inside the socket with a ridge at the larger dia to set against the socket and force it out almost lightly tapped on the push pin to snap it over the inside ridge some lube used maybe to assist?

Jim O

> > On September 30, 2018 at 2:47 PM "george edmonds via Groups.Io" <G6HIG@... mailto:G6HIG@... mailto:G6HIG@... mailto:G6HIG@... > wrote:

Hi All
I have now removed one of the sockets, they are not as anticipated, the locking arrangement used is a floating annular ring with three "ears". I suspect that the inside bore of the removal tool requires a short lead in to allow the "ears" to enter the bore of the removal tool.
73 George G6HIG.


On Sunday, September 30, 2018 8:22 PM, tom jobe <tomjobe@... mailto:tomjobe@... mailto:tomjobe@... mailto:tomjobe@... > wrote:


Between yesterday and today I tried making an assortment of tools that
might be able to remove the pins from the black plastic block on a 465
that serves as the voltage range selector and fuse block.
In the end, I failed to remove a single pin, and here is the story.
(This will be explained in inches, using common drill sizes available
in the mostly non-metric world I live in)
I machined the tools from brass bar stock and tried various inside and
outside dimensions on them.
The outside diameter of the tools could not exceed about 0.126" inches
where they fit into the plastic block on the back of the scope, and the
inside diameter had to be about 0.102" inches or larger to fit over the
pins. The next largest drill in the number drills I have is 0.104"
inches and that size hole will clear the pin's outside diameter coming
in from the back of the scope very nicely.
A tool with these dimensions will go in about 0.450" inches, and it is
not making hard contact with any surface except the bottom of the recess
in the black block around the pin. From the front side of the plastic
block you can slightly move the pin your tool is on, and there is
clearly no hard connection between the tool and the pin.
This made me wonder if the bottom of the recess in the plastic block was
a flat surface, so I filed a 'chisel' end on the tool so only the point
of the chisel end would touch the bottom in any one place. You can then
spin the tool around and feel that the bottom of the 0.126+ recess is
quite flat.
When you push any of the tools I made into the bottom of the recess in
the plastic block, they never push hard against any surface of the pin,
and the pin can be slight moved around in a very loose way from the
front side where the wires come into the plastic block.
One person reported being able to take these pins out with a tool they
have, perhaps they meant they could do that on some other kind of
similar pin?
Another issue after one figures out how to remove these pins, is that
some rows of pins are three pins ganged together on the back side, so
you would need three tools for those two rows of three pins each.
tom jobe...
PS the larger outside diameter on these pins where the wires come in on
the front side of the block is about 0.121" inches as best i could
measure in a crowded area.






On 9/28/2018 4:37 PM, tom jobe wrote:
> > I have been following this discussion, and today took a 4xx scope

> > > apart to study what all of you are talking about.

A Google search shows that the tools to remove these kinds of contacts
come in many-many sizes and it seems the one closest in size to
George's older tool has a 2.7mm hole instead of George's 2.5mm hole.
This is addition to any dimensional problems the newer tools have. If
the hole in the tool is too large and does not squeeze the spring
contact in far enough to release the contact from the hole, that could
possibly be Jim's problem?
The holes in the black plastic connector block appear to be very close
to 0.125" (1/8th of an inch) which probably will work with the nominal
3.2mm outside diameter the tools are listed as having.
Maybe I will make some test parts on the lathe tomorrow to see what it
takes to release those contacts.
tom jobe...
>

> > > > On 9/28/2018 11:21 AM, george edmonds via Groups.Io wrote:

> > > > > > Hi Jim

> > > > I have a scrap 4XX scope and have tried to remove the sockets with

the extraction tool that I have, it was a simple matter to do so.
Be aware that most of the extraction tools that originate in China
are dimensionally poor, at best.
The tool that I have has a spring loaded plunger which you press and
the socket just popped out,
The extractor tube dimensions are OD 3.2mm and the ID is 2.5mm ,
sorry as I have had this tool some 45 years I cannot give you any
idea of the manufacturer as it is unmarked.
73 George G6HIG
> >

> > > > >>

> > >> On Friday, September 28, 2018 5:24 PM, Jim Olson

>> <v_12eng@... mailto:v_12eng@... mailto:v_12eng@... mailto:v_12eng@... > wrote:
>>
>> Fabio,
>> Sorry I was referring to the 4xx series of scopes and the black main
>> power connector on the back for the fuse and voltage selector jumper.
>> I need to remove the connectors from the connector block there is a
>> tek tool for this but can't find one so bought a pin and socket
>> extractor set as it has the right size for the sockets. It will slide
>> in and feels like it compresses the lock tabs but the socket won't
>> release and slide out. So I wanted to put it to some of the more
>> experienced folks here so anyone know this feel free to jump in I
>> really don't want to cut off the primary wires for the transformer as
>> the sockets are crimped and necessary and most likely hard to find.
>>
>> Jim
>>
>>> On September 28, 2018 at 6:44 AM Fabio Trevisan
>>> <fabio.tr3visan@... mailto:fabio.tr3visan@... mailto:fabio.tr3visan@... mailto:fabio.tr3visan@... mailto:fabio.tr3visan@... mailto:fabio.tr3visan@... mailto:fabio.tr3visan@... mailto:fabio.tr3visan@... > wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Hello Jim,
>>> I`m not quite sure abut what equipment you're talking here?
>>> I saw a post from you about this subject some days ago and,
>>> although I don't remember exactly about what equipment it was, I`m
>>> confident that if it was about a model that I`m familiar with, it
>>> would have grabbed my attention (and maybe I would have even picked
>>> a try to answer you).
>>> Nevertheless... If you let me know the model, I can consult the
>>> manuals / pictures and give it my shot...
>>> If it's an equipment I never had (and I only had a 464 and now
>>> this 7623A), my guess will be as good as anyone's but I may be in a
>>> good day.
>>> Rgrds,
>>> Fabio
>>>
>>> On Thu, Sep 27, 2018 at 12:19 AM, Jim Olson wrote:
>>>
>>> >
>>>
>>> > > Fabio,
>>>> A side question here I need to remove the sockets from the
>>>> main power
>>>> connector, (fuse block), so got some tubular connector
>>>> removal tools but when
>>>> I slide it down the socket It feels like it pushes in the
>>>> release tabs and
>>>> stops but the socket won't pull out.
>>>> So what kind of tool do I need here to get it to release?
>>>> It's not working
>>>> like I am used to with normal connectors!
>>>>
>>>> Jim
>>>>
>>>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> >

> > > >

> >

>

On Thu, Oct? 4, 2018 at 05:00 AM, lop pol wrote:

It has Mostek MK36694J-5 and MK36693J-5 ROMs. Are these something that in
order to do a proper restore need to be replaced?

IIRC the 468 ROM's came in three revisions, -00, -01 & -02, where
-00 and -01 were Mostek. The -02 had the same digital content as
the -01 but were CY7C264 EPROM's. The Mostek's are unreliable and
for that reason ought to be replaced although replacements could
be hard to find. With an adapter board common 27C64's could be used.

/H?kan

Hello Chuck,

I have posted the photos from the CAL01 to the forum:
/g/TekScopes/album?id=74577

Could you, please, have a look and tell me if you see something not right?

I'll have to re-do the CAL01 with 7603 or 7834 scope as a bench scope this evening.

Thank you again,

Maxim

On Fri, Oct 5, 2018 at 08:03 PM, bobh@... wrote:

Are the 620's all power supply assemblies a listed category in the RPR or does
RPR only group individual items or parts?? I know it is a column in the list
but are all the 620's on one or several microfiche slides.

The RPR isn't grouped it just lists all P/N's in sequence from 000-xxxx-xx thru 950-xxxx-xx.
In my set, from 1997, 620-xxxx-xx are on pages 28385 thru 28420 = 36 pages.

/H?kan

On Thu, Oct 4, 2018 at 07:02 PM, Gary Robert Bosworth wrote:

Also, which of the 7000 Series oscilloscopes use the same power supply as the
7104?

The P/N of the complete P/S is 620-0283-01 or -02. -01 was also used in R7103, 7854 and 7904A.
It was replaced by the -02 which was used in the above plus 7704A B231888 - up and 7934.

/H?kan

On Thu, Oct 4, 2018 at 05:00 AM, lop pol wrote:

It has Mostek MK36694J-5 and MK36693J-5 ROMs. Are these something that in
order to do a proper restore need to be replaced?

IIRC the 468 ROM's came in three revisions, -00, -01 & -02, where
-00 and -01 were Mostek. The -02 had the same digital content as
the -01 but were CY7C264 EPROM's. The Mostek's are unreliable and
for that reason ought to be replaced although replacements could
be hard to find. With an adapter board common 27C64's could be used.

/H?kan

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Nenad
Filipovic
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2018 8:26 AM