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Hello All, I have recently purchased a 1978 Tartan 27-2 with a clean Yanmar 2QM15. She is docked on Lake Ouachita in Arkansas. It is a beautiful lake with lots of remote coves to anchor in which is perfect. We most recently had a Hunter 240 which we sailed on Lake Maumelle close to Little Rock. It was so close we sailed on average of 50 days a year over the last 6 years. Isla Bleu is in pretty good shape overall. The interior is close to perfect with very nice cushions and woodwork looks great. We have been out on her two long weekends so far and she is very comfortable to anchor out on. We have a nice sized Danforth anchor with pretty large size chain 20-25 feet’s worth and 100 feet of line. One of the items I realize I want is a anchor roller...at least...to make this easier. I am a pretty good sized man 6-2 200lbs and I am spent after hoisting this up. Any suggestions on this would be greatly appreciated!! The Yanmar is having some engaging issues. I have read in the Yanmar manual that a double handle shifter will not work with this engine/transmission. It was setup using the double shifter for the Faryman. I am not sure if this is why it is not engaging properly...more to come on this. She sails great, our second day out we sailed over 30 miles mostly using only the main sail. She tends to get over powered using the Genoa as well on gusts up to 15-20 miles an hour or so. The last weekend we used the Genoa more, but it is a very large Genoa and when the winds aren’t light it seems to be too much sail. With just the mainsail up she sails on her feet and keeps a good speed up. So far I am very impressed with her. I might prefer a smaller Genoa. These are Tartan 27 sails, could they be the original? Swim ladder, she has a 4 step Taylor made side hanging removable ladder that needs to be replaced. The center of the keyhole slots are at 12.5 inches. I found Westmarine side mounting that would has 13 inches center to center. Any advice here would be appreciated. She has a nice dodger and a connector to a Bimini. She has had a recent bottom job but is in need of a top job and she will look beautiful!! My goal for her is to learn if we can make her work for possible trips to the Bahama once we retire in a few years. We also had plans to do the great loop but there is no way we could listen to a noisy motor all day. That is why we love to sail!!! Glenn P hull 688 Isla Bleu. Her name comes from the Scottish Isle of Islay, which is called the queen of the Hebrides, and also where some of my Scottish ancestors came from. Bleu is a name of the clan on a neighboring Island and we are blue eyed crew.

Hi all. Hope you're well. I've been spending the last few months with my head in the bilge some more. Trying to get past the point where a sail reveals neglected (including by myself) maintenance. The latest item is the that after a sail including motoring in to and out of the marina, the stern tube seems to be weeping where it meets the hull. I'm fairly sure it isn't the stuffing box after watching it for hours with a flashlight and running fingers over it but clearly feeling water just under the prop shaft. Guessing the prop shaft is probably bronze and probably 55 years old in my case. The plans seem to indicate (wish I had a higher res version of that jpg) that the stern tube rests directly on the keel, any implications of which I do not grasp. Not seeing any notes on this bit of hardware in the Handbook, so, has anyone here had this replaced and if so, did you learn any lessons from it? Likely having a yard do the work. One place that's not yet completely booked doesn't think it'll be difficult but it's always good to know about gotchas. Mast step was re-enforced with fiberglass pillars built by raising and leveling the bilge floor then building tubes out of 2" PVC pipe with about 1/3" of fiberglass around them, one on either side. I have no idea if that's a good idea and will work but I punted on doing a proper job of having the mast removed (used a small hydrolic jack and loosened rigging) and cutting all of the old out ironically because I was trying to avoid a haul out and having to pay a yard to do the work. Going through contortions to avoid a haul out then immediately after discovering I need a haulout has been a theme. Also looking at just removing all of the below-the-waterline thru-hulls except engine water intake, and venting the cockpit scuppers to the sides above the water line. There's one thru-hull for the old manual bilge pump on starboard that should work as is and I'll probably drag my feet on actually adding a mate on port. The cockpit getting swamped by waves just has not been a problem but I'll make sure of adequate drainage before tempting that fate outside of the bay. Since all of the bronze seems to be giving up at about the same time, I guess I should also be thinking of having the rudder tube replaced as well. Weather in California in the Sacramento/San Joaquin delta has been fabulous and the wind generally 20-25mph with a slight howl. Ideas and feedback appreciated. West Coast built hull #93. Cheers, -scott

Good points, all. This group is full of thoughtful, experienced people. A few comments on particular points raised: Why hinge a mast on a perfectly good boat? Because the Tartan 27 is one of a handful of offshore-capable boats that is also trailerable. The Nor'Sea 27 is another, but it it considerably heavier and costs twice or three times as much as a T27. The MacGregor 26 and the O'Day 25 with their hinged masts are popular, but they are not offshore boats. I want a boat that I can take where I want to, at 70 mph cruise without worrying about storms. Just one trip down the West Coast of the U.S. or, more to the point, one trip beating to weather up the West Coast will justify the trouble and expense of hinging the mast. I want to be able to cruise the Gulf of Mexico, the West Coast of Mexico, the Intra-Coastal Waterway, Puget Sound, not to mention my huge lake in the Northwest where I live on the water. A trailerable boat with a hinged mast makes that all possible, and without relying on a crane at each point of departure. In fact, a typical boat ramp should be adequate. With the low-slung trailer I have, the Tartan should float off in less than five feet of water. One trip through the Panama Canal would cost more than the entire project of hinging the mast on the T 27. What about the weight and balance of the mast? If the mast weighs 300 pounds, and I am not yet sure of that, then the section from the cabin top to the masthead should weigh about 240 pounds, no small matter. As it is lowered, the mast will lie over-center on the bow pulpit. A support or gallows may be necessary to temporarily support that weight. The hinge at the butt end should restrain the mast from tipping over forward. If not, a loop of line over the top will restrain the mast, until it can be unhooked from the hinge and moved aft to center on the hull. Will the boom, acting as a gin pole, need to be restrained laterally? Probably not. The mast will be restrained laterally by the shrouds which will be loosened but remain attached to the chain plates. The mast will fall down the center line of the hull. The traveller will be centered. The mainsheet will be changed out with much longer lines and, pulling on the boom end, will control the descent and ascent of the mast. There will be no lateral component of force applied by the mainsheet. If there is a lateral force applied to the boom, for example by the wind, the mainsheet acting along the centerline will restrain any lateral movement of the boom, increasing in restoring force as the boom is moving farther off-center. The boom should follow the mast down the center line of the hull. What about overstressing the cabin top? Good question. There will be some lateral force at the base of the mast applied by the forces acting on the mainsail. The same is true of any boat with a deck-stepped mast. Will the Tartan cabin top be equal to the task? My guess is yes. The Tartan, with its overkill scantlings and cored deck, should carry this load better than any modern Chlorox bottle boat. The plastic base to be installed on the cabin top, running athwartship, should spread the load over a large area. The lower section of the mast, acting as a compression post, should carry the major load, the vertical component, as before. I suppose that one could imagine a failure due to racking the cabin top, but that seems highly unlikely. One more bright (?) idea: Installing a clear dome. At 6 foot, 1 inch, I do not have standing headroom in the cabin of the T27. That is a pain in the neck, literally. I plan to solve the problem by installing an hemispherical clear dome in the center of the sliding companionway hatch. That will allow me one place to stretch to full height. Plus, I will be able to poke my head up for a look about, without leaving the comfort of the cabin. The founder of the first solo transatlantic race, Blondie Hasler, installed a similar dome on his boat. I have been advised by an experienced shipwright to find a polycarbonate dome, like lexan, because it is far stronger than acrylic (plexiglass). ANY COMM

Sent: Friday, January 17, 2020 10:48 AM To: T27Owners Moderator <T27Owners-owner@...> Subject: Tartan 27 For Sale Classic 1969 Tartan 27 Hull #412, Great Lakes Boat! Located in Sturgeon Bay WI Complete in Good Condition LOA 27', Beam 8.5', draft 39" CDI roller furling, spinnaker, mainsail and several hank on head sails - good condition Well maintained universal atomic 4 with CDI 2 blade propeller upgrade, 20 gallon fuel tank Rebuilt enclosed marine head and new Nauta holding tank Custom winter cover ($1500) Autohelm 800, extra tiller Interior cushions in good condition Origo cook stove, galley sink with electric pump, 30 gallon fresh water tank New diaphram on "Gusher" manual bildge pump LED cabin lights, running lights and stern light re-wired Marine radio and brand new depth finder Madison, Milwaukee Craigslist $7500 call or text Dave (608) 886-3743 David Smith Edgewood College Professor of Art www.farmandfire.com<http://www.farmandfire.com/> www.artaxis.org<http://www.artaxis.org>