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Has anybody seen or have a diagram of deck and cockpit drains. Bilge pumps placements etc. I have the boat on the hard and replacing pumps, hoses etc. I'm sure there's some logic in place but to me it doesn't appear that straight forward.

Hello, I know just enough to be dangerous! I removed an old depth sounder and have a nickel sized hole in the bottom of my boat below the waterline now. All I need to do now is glass over the hole. I am familiar with the basics of the 12-to-1 bevel, building up the layers, etc. But.. the devil is in the details. I have an early model T27, Hull #154, 1965. My understanding is that these boats are polyester resin. It is generally safe to put epoxy on polyester, but not the other way around. And, apparently, gelcoat is a type of polyester resin. So.. now I have questions. Did my boat originally have gelcoat under the bottom paint? The top-layer of bottom paint is an ablative paint - micron extra. But I don't really know what is underneath. Maybe I don't care? Maybe I just use epoxy and glass over hole. And then use whatever primer and other treatment interlux says to use before applying micro extra to the patch? My concern is that if someone later tried to reapply gelcoat to the bottom, there would be a place where it wouldn't work right? Or maybe my boat never had gelcoat below the waterline? Or perhaps it is absurd to think anyone is ever going to try to reapply gelcoat to the bottom? Also, I noticed that after the fiberglass is epoxied in place, people usually apply a layer of fairing compound over the epoxy to smooth things out. Perhaps the gelcoat would be able to adhere to the fairing compound masking the epoxy<->polyester incompatibility issue? It seems, at the very least, that if I use epoxy for the patch, that I won't be using any gelcoat on top of the patch regardless of what is on the rest of the bottom. I guess that is not an issue? What if I was patching above the waterline and wanted the best matching finish? Would I want to use polyester resin instead of epoxy so that I could have matching gelcoat applied? Does my boat even have gelcoat? My hull is a standard blue color, https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipO9pFWpfQ-L3zuNj3ZEjnIRSOErJnVl3luLEJ_y1j24IsmTo7xojkBFIZLiN298gw?key=S3pUbjA4aXV1NnpfdWprYzRnaUZraU5UU3RoRVF3 As noted, I know enough to know there could be an issue, but not enough to know if there is an issue. Thanks, - jeremy

I would lean towards blue silicone exhaust hose. It ages very well. I have heater hose and have not touched it since we bought her a year ago. A haul out is in the plans. I figure I should really drop the board and service, so my input is mostly theoretical...

We keep DAMSELv in Manatee Pocket, Stuart Fl. I noticed a classic 27 getting a paint job at Salerno Marine. Is that any one on this group? (no name as she is all sanded down)

I lost my T27 hull and so I'm selling sails, mast, boom, rigging, tiller, dinnett table and pole. I'm in Connecticut and you can contact me with questions rickg1952@... (203) 287-0283 Thanks, Rick Gengarelly

I spliced on dynema 3 years ago. Looked great when I hauled in the spring Jon 560 Sent from my iPhone

Changing out my centerboard cable and hose. Currently have 1/8" SS cable and 1" ID heater hose. Has anybody used Dyeema for the cable. Never liked how the cable wrapped on itself tended to get kinked from time to time. Also have seen different pictures ho the centerboard hose. Any ideas appreciated.

Advice : If anyone ever tries to convince you to mount your depth sounder transducer in a v-berth storage locker down low next to the leading edge of the keel , please tell them to either get lost or make themselves available to stand on their head in the locker and service it when it begins to leak ! Ron s/v Hygelig

I still have my wood frame from my T27 and anyone is welcome to it for free. It's functionally incredible.

1966 Tartan 27' Sailboat - Ohio | eBay $21.50 1966 Tartan 27' Sailboat - Ohio | eBay 1966 Tartan 27? Sailboat. Make. Tartan. Model. Sailboat. Year. 1966. OHIO BOAT TITLE. Length. 27?. HURON, OHIO 4...

Hello all, After six great seasons, we are putting "Faith" on the market. The complete listing is on Craigslist through this link: https://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/d/annapolis-tartan-27/6898600991.html Faith is located in Annapolis, MD on the Severn River. We are the third owner and have a good sense of the prior ownership and care. She's in fantastic shape, with relatively new sails (5 years or younger). Engine still works well. We've made several investments and upgrades which are listed on the Craigslist ad. Please feel free to share with any prospective T-27 owners, and thanks for all the fantastic knowledge-sharing through this group. Thanks. Reed Perry Jr.

Hey folks - I lost my centerboard in a grounding last year and am in need of a replacement. Any of you here happen to have one for sale? I'm really not interested in a big project to make my own. Hoping to get something relatively quickly so I can use it for sailing this season (I'm on the Chesapeake). Also curious if any of you have done much sailing without your centerboard and how much different it made in your ability to point. Thanks in advance for your thoughts! Dennis Tartan 27 "Lenore" Jones Creek, Baltimore, Maryland

After many enjoyable years, we are selling Eagle, #662. We have a deposit on a bigger boat, can't afford two. Bottom has been bead blasted and barrier coated, electric inboard motor which has been great! Centerboard and mechanism rebuilt, new cushions below, new FW plumbing, VHF and depth, much more. Asking $8500.00 Located in Patchogue, New York.

Looking for the original dimensions of the T27 cabin or dinette table. Mine was rebuilt and somewhat clumsy.Been wanting to rebuild it for a while. Thanks , Kim T27 #167 Deluna Pensacola, Florida

Anyone in Jacksonville know of a fiberglass guy? I wasn't happy with the level of work here. I'm able to finish the job myself, but I'm going to need some help around the bow, especially with regards to fabric selection. I believe he used 17 oz biaxial for everything, but it didn't wet out well up there. When I ground it down to fair it there was a half inch void inside the hull. Using epoxy not fiberglass resin. Thanks --Rob

The lightning cooked the resin from areas around each strike. So it didn't look that bad until we started grinding. Here you can see some Gorilla gutter tape over the holes. That stuff is awesome. I recommend carrying some aboard. My guy said it was really tough to get off. --Rob

Starboard side, after glass, before fairing

Met a guy at the yard Sunday while I was working on my Allied. He said he used to own a T27, I think he said hull 314. He mentioned something about starting a website for T27s back in the day when the internet was just becoming popular, maybe mid 90s. I think he said his name was Phil, and he got all excited when I mentioned I had a T27. Then he had to run off to catch a plane to Toronto. He kept saying what a great boat they are. Going to attempt to post a few pictures of the Allied which might help explain why I have no news on my T27. Try not to get struck by lightning. Your boat, too. --Rob

I am currently working on my cabin sole. Using mahogany decking trimmed edges so they are squared, stained and coated with 50/50 mix varnish and thinner so stain will not bleed into maple. Maple is 1/2" wide strips of which will sandwich using bisquet and glue .I will lightly sand then apply 3 coats of epifanes high gloss 75/25 then 3 coats epifanes hand rubbed finish. all materials came to $150.00 BillTalbot Scot Free # 27