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Advice :???? If anyone ever tries to convince you to mount your depth sounder transducer in a v-berth storage locker down low next to the leading edge of the keel , please tell them to either get lost or make themselves available to stand on their head in the locker and service it when it begins to leak !????? Ron s/v Hygelig
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That transducer can be mounted on the surface , not necessitate cutting through the hull. I did it on my Tartan. Did have to stand on my head in the locker but just once.
On Saturday, June 15, 2019, 5:39 AM, sailor24u@... [T27Owners] wrote:
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Advice :???? If anyone ever tries to convince you to mount your depth sounder transducer in a v-berth storage locker down low next to the leading edge of the keel , please tell them to either get lost or make themselves available to stand on their head in the locker and service it when it begins to leak !????? Ron s/v Hygelig
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As I'm about to do this, do you have an alternate location recommendation?
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I mounted the transducer in the starboard berth locker.? Use a big bloob of silicone with no air bubbles trapped in it, push the transducer down into the bloob and support it until the silicone hardens. No muss no fuss no hole....works great....?
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: traci.mont@... [T27Owners]
To: T27Owners
Sent: Sun, Jul 7, 2019 10:22 pm
Subject: [T27Owners] Re: Mounting Transducer
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As I'm about to do this, do you have an alternate location recommendation?
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I did the job last year. Located it st the center of the forward part of the hull. Needed to be level though.
On Sunday, July 7, 2019, 9:39 PM, Jdob3542 jdob3542@... [T27Owners] wrote:
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I mounted the transducer in the starboard berth locker.? Use a big bloob of silicone with no air bubbles trapped in it, push the transducer down into the bloob and support it until the silicone hardens. No muss no fuss no hole....works great....?
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: traci.mont@... [T27Owners]
To: T27Owners
Sent: Sun, Jul 7, 2019 10:22 pm
Subject: [T27Owners] Re: Mounting Transducer
?
As I'm about to do this, do you have an alternate location recommendation?
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Thanks for the information!
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I mounted a very old one in the port settee locker using butyl tape and it seems to work fine. The display is large and I mounted it to the side of the icebox, next to the stairs facing up. So you can look into the cabin and see it. I have just bought a new Hawkeye, that says it goes thru glass as well. I got it to mount thru the cabin wall above the icebox. However the same trick does not seem to be working. Any suggestions for a material to use? What kind of silicone was that Jim?
Brian SV Windfall #275
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I temporarily mounted my DST800 triducer on the port side under the icebox using a blob of wax from a toilet bowl wax o-ring. It's kind of like sticky playdoh. I've been using it that way for the last 6 months and it works fine.
One advantage of mounting inside the hull is that it is easier to get the sensor pointing straight down.
I am now in the process of trying to properly mount it.?While the depth portion works fine shooting through the hull, the paddlewheel that measures speed through water doesn't work so well embedded in a glob of wax and mounted inside the boat.
?I've removed the old transducer that was installed on the starboard side in the locker under the seaberth, and am going to install the new sensor in its place.
The deadrise is pretty close to the edge of what the sensor will support, so I am thinking that I want to add a fairing block or something to level it out -- I am still researching options. One tempting option is to layer on some fiberglass to create a 'pocket'. See attached.
- jeremy
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?That ¡®pocket¡¯ concept is very interesting. ? Would that be hollow, i.e. a fairing applied to the hull with an air space between the hull and the outer skin of the fairing? ?Or does that hollow area get filled with mineral oil or something else? ?Or is the fairing solid fiberglass? ?The reason I ask is, on the early T27s, at least, the hull thickness seems awfully thick to begin with, like close to an inch! ? ?So if one then added more thickness in the form of a solid glass fairing, are we getting to the point of too much fiberglass to shoot thru? ?Thanks! ?Warren Stein Sent from my iPad
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On Jul 9, 2019, at 8:42 AM, jeremy@... [T27Owners] < T27Owners@...> wrote:
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I temporarily mounted my DST800 triducer on the port side under the icebox using a blob of wax from a toilet bowl wax o-ring. It's kind of like sticky playdoh. I've been using it that way for the last 6 months and it works fine.
One advantage of mounting inside the hull is that it is easier to get the sensor pointing straight down.
I am now in the process of trying to properly mount it.?While the depth portion works fine shooting through the hull, the paddlewheel that measures speed through water doesn't work so well embedded in a glob of wax and mounted inside the boat.
?I've removed the old transducer that was installed on the starboard side in the locker under the seaberth, and am going to install the new sensor in its place.
The deadrise is pretty close to the edge of what the sensor will support, so I am thinking that I want to add a fairing block or something to level it out -- I am still researching options. One tempting option is to layer on some fiberglass to create a 'pocket'. See attached.
- jeremy
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My impression is that the face of the transducer is still in direct contact with the water. It's just that the boat builder was nice and created a nice flat area for you to mount the transducer. I would presume (because I can't find information) that the boat is built with the surface there, but no hole -- and you drill a hole to fit your particular transducer.
A similar concept would be glassing the fairing block into the hull. (See attached.) My particular transducer does not have an off-the-shelf fairing block available, but I could fabricate something and then glass it into place.
?
?That ¡®pocket¡¯ concept is very interesting. ? Would that be hollow, i.e. a fairing applied to the hull with an air space between the hull and the outer skin of the fairing?? Or does that hollow area get filled with mineral oil or something else?? Or is the fairing solid fiberglass?? The reason I ask is, on the early T27s, at least, the hull thickness seems awfully thick to begin with, like close to an inch! ? ?So if one then added more thickness in the form of a solid glass fairing, are we getting to the point of too much fiberglass to shoot thru?? Thanks!? Warren Stein
Sent from my iPad
?
I temporarily mounted my DST800 triducer on the port side under the icebox using a blob of wax from a toilet bowl wax o-ring. It's kind of like sticky playdoh. I've been using it that way for the last 6 months and it works fine.
One advantage of mounting inside the hull is that it is easier to get the sensor pointing straight down.
I am now in the process of trying to properly mount it.?While the depth portion works fine shooting through the hull, the paddlewheel that measures speed through water doesn't work so well embedded in a glob of wax and mounted inside the boat.
?I've removed the old transducer that was installed on the starboard side in the locker under the seaberth, and am going to install the new sensor in its place.
The deadrise is pretty close to the edge of what the sensor will support, so I am thinking that I want to add a fairing block or something to level it out -- I am still researching options. One tempting option is to layer on some fiberglass to create a 'pocket'. See attached.
- jeremy
<Screen Shot 2019-07-09 at 7.40.09 AM.png>
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Mine is forward between the mast and V berth under a hatch in the sole on center line. It is depth only and goes through the hull. I have no idea how old it is, was there when we got the boat. Fred Liesegang Eagle #662
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Is it directly on the center line? Or offset a bit? I've been thinking that might be where I want to install mine (a DST800). Mine is currently temporarily mounted underneath the icebox. But if I am trying to get into a shallow anchorage/marina, then by the time it shows me it is too shallow I'll definitely be run aground already.
Putting it right on the center line is appealing, but I wonder how that affects things structurally. Also, I am not clear how thick the fiberglass is there and if tube is long enough to reach through all the way once I create flat surfaces on the inside and outside.
But, even a few inches off center wouldn't be so bad? Either way, I need to create some sort of fairing block so that the outside mushroom head has something flat to sit again -- and preferable points straight down.
In unrelated news -- there are a bunch of lead weights in my bilge in a few different places. Is this factory installed? Or something that an owner added after the fact? I have Hull #154 with the external ballast.?
I've attached photos showing approximately where the transducer would be mounted (or perhaps a bit more forward), and a picture of the area under the v-berth floor.
- jeremy
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Mine is forward between the mast and V berth under a hatch in the sole on center line. It is depth only and goes through the hull. I have no idea how old it is, was there when we got the boat. Fred Liesegang Eagle #662
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Ah, OK. ?I misunderstood, even though your post was clear. ? Insufficient caffeination on my part. ?Apologies. ?You ARE planning on cutting a biggish hole and want a flat spot on the outside of the hull for that. ??
My question to you is, is it worth the effort for a paddlewheel gain? ? All that gets you over what you¡¯ve already got is speed thru water via an old-school technology, prone to fouling, when you could get the probably more useful (at least for navigation purposes) speed over ground thru a cheap handheld GPS, with no hole in the bottom. ? Maybe I¡¯m missing something. ? Thanks¡ª-Warren Stein Sent from my iPad
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On Jul 9, 2019, at 9:47 AM, Jeremy Shaw jeremy@... [T27Owners] < T27Owners@...> wrote:
?
My impression is that the face of the transducer is still in direct contact with the water. It's just that the boat builder was nice and created a nice flat area for you to mount the transducer. I would presume (because I can't find information) that the boat is built with the surface there, but no hole -- and you drill a hole to fit your particular transducer.
A similar concept would be glassing the fairing block into the hull. (See attached.) My particular transducer does not have an off-the-shelf fairing block available, but I could fabricate something and then glass it into place.
?
?That ¡®pocket¡¯ concept is very interesting. ? Would that be hollow, i.e. a fairing applied to the hull with an air space between the hull and the outer skin of the fairing?? Or does that hollow area get filled with mineral oil or something else?? Or is the fairing solid fiberglass?? The reason I ask is, on the early T27s, at least, the hull thickness seems awfully thick to begin with, like close to an inch! ? ?So if one then added more thickness in the form of a solid glass fairing, are we getting to the point of too much fiberglass to shoot thru?? Thanks!? Warren Stein
Sent from my iPad
?
I temporarily mounted my DST800 triducer on the port side under the icebox using a blob of wax from a toilet bowl wax o-ring. It's kind of like sticky playdoh. I've been using it that way for the last 6 months and it works fine.
One advantage of mounting inside the hull is that it is easier to get the sensor pointing straight down.
I am now in the process of trying to properly mount it.?While the depth portion works fine shooting through the hull, the paddlewheel that measures speed through water doesn't work so well embedded in a glob of wax and mounted inside the boat.
?I've removed the old transducer that was installed on the starboard side in the locker under the seaberth, and am going to install the new sensor in its place.
The deadrise is pretty close to the edge of what the sensor will support, so I am thinking that I want to add a fairing block or something to level it out -- I am still researching options. One tempting option is to layer on some fiberglass to create a 'pocket'. See attached.
- jeremy
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The lead pigs are probably original. ? The early T27s were tender and had 400 lbs of these pigs. ? Number 90 has them. ? ?I¡¯m giving some thought to pouring some concrete, maybe with lead shot, into the deepest part of the bilge under the engine. ? Being deep I¡¯d get more righting moment for the same weight, AND keep things from falling into complete inaccessability. ? ? Sent from my iPad
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On Jul 9, 2019, at 10:23 AM, Jeremy Shaw jeremy@... [T27Owners] < T27Owners@...> wrote:
?
Is it directly on the center line? Or offset a bit? I've been thinking that might be where I want to install mine (a DST800). Mine is currently temporarily mounted underneath the icebox. But if I am trying to get into a shallow anchorage/marina, then by the time it shows me it is too shallow I'll definitely be run aground already.
Putting it right on the center line is appealing, but I wonder how that affects things structurally. Also, I am not clear how thick the fiberglass is there and if tube is long enough to reach through all the way once I create flat surfaces on the inside and outside.
But, even a few inches off center wouldn't be so bad? Either way, I need to create some sort of fairing block so that the outside mushroom head has something flat to sit again -- and preferable points straight down.
In unrelated news -- there are a bunch of lead weights in my bilge in a few different places. Is this factory installed? Or something that an owner added after the fact? I have Hull #154 with the external ballast.?
I've attached photos showing approximately where the transducer would be mounted (or perhaps a bit more forward), and a picture of the area under the v-berth floor.
- jeremy
?
Mine is forward between the mast and V berth under a hatch in the sole on center line. It is depth only and goes through the hull. I have no idea how old it is, was there when we got the boat. Fred Liesegang Eagle #662
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If I install the new sensor where the old one was, then I do not increase the total number of holes in the bottom. If I don't install it there, then I have to fiberglass over the hole that is already there.
I just motored down 1000 miles of rivers and while GPS gave me my speed over ground, my SOG was affected a lot by currents. It would have been nice to actually measure the speed through water (STW) and be able to determine current. That would help determine my plan speed.
Fowling is a concern, but:
?1) when I get this boat back to Chicago it will likely be hauled out once a year anyway. ?2) The DST800 sensor actually has a neat system that allows you to pull the sensor out and clean the paddlewheel while the boat is still in the water. ?3) The existing (obsolete) paddlewheel that is installed doesn't seem to accumulate growth in Chicago
In summary, I'd kind of like SOG *and* STW due to current and tides. STW is not as important as depth.. but still useful.
On the other hand, if this boat ends up staying in Chicago after I am done doing with the great loop, there are neither tides nor current there.
- jeremy
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Ah, OK.? I misunderstood, even though your post was clear. ? Insufficient caffeination on my part.? Apologies.? You ARE planning on cutting a biggish hole and want a flat spot on the outside of the hull for that. ??
My question to you is, is it worth the effort for a paddlewheel gain? ? All that gets you over what you¡¯ve already got is speed thru water via an old-school technology, prone to fouling, when you could get the probably more useful (at least for navigation purposes) speed over ground thru a cheap handheld GPS, with no hole in the bottom. ? Maybe I¡¯m missing something. ? Thanks¡ª-Warren Stein Sent from my iPad
?
My impression is that the face of the transducer is still in direct contact with the water. It's just that the boat builder was nice and created a nice flat area for you to mount the transducer. I would presume (because I can't find information) that the boat is built with the surface there, but no hole -- and you drill a hole to fit your particular transducer.
A similar concept would be glassing the fairing block into the hull. (See attached.) My particular transducer does not have an off-the-shelf fairing block available, but I could fabricate something and then glass it into place.
?
?That ¡®pocket¡¯ concept is very interesting. ? Would that be hollow, i.e. a fairing applied to the hull with an air space between the hull and the outer skin of the fairing?? Or does that hollow area get filled with mineral oil or something else?? Or is the fairing solid fiberglass?? The reason I ask is, on the early T27s, at least, the hull thickness seems awfully thick to begin with, like close to an inch! ? ?So if one then added more thickness in the form of a solid glass fairing, are we getting to the point of too much fiberglass to shoot thru?? Thanks!? Warren Stein
Sent from my iPad
?
I temporarily mounted my DST800 triducer on the port side under the icebox using a blob of wax from a toilet bowl wax o-ring. It's kind of like sticky playdoh. I've been using it that way for the last 6 months and it works fine.
One advantage of mounting inside the hull is that it is easier to get the sensor pointing straight down.
I am now in the process of trying to properly mount it.?While the depth portion works fine shooting through the hull, the paddlewheel that measures speed through water doesn't work so well embedded in a glob of wax and mounted inside the boat.
?I've removed the old transducer that was installed on the starboard side in the locker under the seaberth, and am going to install the new sensor in its place.
The deadrise is pretty close to the edge of what the sensor will support, so I am thinking that I want to add a fairing block or something to level it out -- I am still researching options. One tempting option is to layer on some fiberglass to create a 'pocket'. See attached.
- jeremy
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Here is an example of modifying a boat for a pocket transducer install,
I think the photos are a bit out of order, but you can still get the picture. It's a pretty aggressive project, but makes for a nice finished product.
- jeremy
?
?That ¡®pocket¡¯ concept is very interesting. ? Would that be hollow, i.e. a fairing applied to the hull with an air space between the hull and the outer skin of the fairing?? Or does that hollow area get filled with mineral oil or something else?? Or is the fairing solid fiberglass?? The reason I ask is, on the early T27s, at least, the hull thickness seems awfully thick to begin with, like close to an inch! ? ?So if one then added more thickness in the form of a solid glass fairing, are we getting to the point of too much fiberglass to shoot thru?? Thanks!? Warren Stein
Sent from my iPad
?
I temporarily mounted my DST800 triducer on the port side under the icebox using a blob of wax from a toilet bowl wax o-ring. It's kind of like sticky playdoh. I've been using it that way for the last 6 months and it works fine.
One advantage of mounting inside the hull is that it is easier to get the sensor pointing straight down.
I am now in the process of trying to properly mount it.?While the depth portion works fine shooting through the hull, the paddlewheel that measures speed through water doesn't work so well embedded in a glob of wax and mounted inside the boat.
?I've removed the old transducer that was installed on the starboard side in the locker under the seaberth, and am going to install the new sensor in its place.
The deadrise is pretty close to the edge of what the sensor will support, so I am thinking that I want to add a fairing block or something to level it out -- I am still researching options. One tempting option is to layer on some fiberglass to create a 'pocket'. See attached.
- jeremy
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