Great! Can't wait to see her, very interested to see the paint job. Does she have a name yet??
Cheers Kent and Skipper
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It is a super sailfish. It was sitting outside and has quite a bit is water in it. I am thawing it right now. As soon as it is lighter I will get pictures.
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On Monday, March 11, 2019, 8:09:46 PM EDT, lewis.kent@... [sunfish_sailor] wrote:
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Might have one, stand by.
Got any photos of your boat? Is she the Standard or Super Sailfish?
Cheers Kent
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Might have one, stand by.
Got any photos of your boat? Is she the Standard or Super Sailfish?
Cheers Kent
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Hi, just picked up a all wood super sailfish. The only thing missing is the rear drain screw and retainer. Anything you folks might have?
Peter
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A porthole behind the splash combing with a storage bag is good, keep wallet phone keys etc dry there. I know what you mean about the work is like a hobby of love and enjoyment and knowing what you got inside the structure, I used to build and fly aircraft, and built a few boats, precision work, I loved it, my 71 model was waterlogged when I got it, dryed it out with 2 porthole, fan, light bulb, the 78 model never got water inside the hull, I put 2 inspection ports to inspect it, they seem to build up condensation inside the hull, in Florida, I open my portholes often to air out,? Go for the innards of the structure if you got the time,, that's just another my 2 cents of opinion,,, Hugh
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Sawing out the center section will be very messy and complicated and ultimately cost more than it's worth, unless your goal is to really learn how to work with fiberglass, lol.? I too suggest splitting the deck fore and aft while leaving the center section attached.? I found a rubber mallet and sharp paint scraper do this job easily and cleanly, which makes glassing the joint back together easy.? Kent is right that the deck at the bow can be bent upwards like a car hood (almost) to let you get into the front. The aft deck can also be pried up the same way, and this means your repairs won't leave a lot of portholes behind.
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IMHO, it's all about the work.. Having done over 20 (Sf) restorations, I find the effort enjoyable and satisfying. Keeping your baby would be my approach. You know what you have now. The cost savings speak for itself.
In most cases separating the hull from the deck here is done with a 10-12" sharp knife.. (my wife loves this as it gives her the opportunity to replace it with better one) The thin blade is tap at using a rubber paint can mallet or small brass hammer. You will find it easy to guild the process using this method. In the majority to cases I peel back the forward section to the splash guard followed by the aft section. A simple brace will hold up that section leaving you room to work.
95% of the interior can be reached and repaired without the more aggressive surgery you mentioned...lol
Bob Harbor Master at
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i'm new to the group.. Not new to Sunfish. Been sailing the same one for 40 years. it's leaky now.
I've rad a lot about separating the deck and hull, and peeling those up to get to the innards.
I haven't seen a method where one removes the coming, cleat, etc., uses a jigsaw to cut around the daggerboard opening, cockpit and mast, leaving a good sized edge to glass back onto, then separate the decks.?
This would seem to give great access to the foam blocks. If marine foam supplier is found, new foam could be shaped and glassed into place.
Also, a new thing layer of thin fiberglass cloth could be added to the underside of the deck, and the inside of the hull given the same treatment.
Perhaps fabricating a thin aluminum sheet glued to the remaining edges of the deck to make a cockpit joint reinforcement to glass onto.
The boat would never race, but it would be back for another 40 years or so.
Other than this being a lot of work, and it's probably better to buy a good used boat, what all is wrong with this idea?
Thanks!? Dave ____________________________________________"Better to light one candle than to curse the darkness"
-- Bob Richards? aka? Soapy Harbor Master
Sewell Mountain Sailing Association of WV.
Home of the "Mountain Mama Hospice Regatta"?
1641 Corliss Rd.
Rainelle,WV. 25962 304 719-1100
(official?web site)
304 438-5035
We Cannot Direct the Wind, but We Can Adjust the Sails
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I would not do all that, 2 inspection ports, air it out, fix leaks, works wonders! If you interested in another sunfish, I have 2, I need to sell, 1 , 1971, 1, 1978, both in good condition ready to sail, the 78 is in excellent condition with new sail and CRP rudder, ,,, my 2 cents worth opinion on that, WAY TOO MUCH work to separate the deck,,,, Hugh
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Hi Dave and Welcome
1) ANSWER 1. Do it how you want to do it. Take pictures!
2) ANSWER 2. We haven't seen one of those FINISHED. I've seen folks start renovations like that and have NEVER seen them completed. It would be really hard to get things lined up as it went back together and get fair curves. ANd one would need to be pretty handy with fiberglass. Seems that it would work in theory, but in practice? And please let me know when you find that supplier of affordable XPS foam blocks.
Now why not put on a marine grade plywood deck!
I've thought that XPS home insulation sheets could be glued or taped with silver HVAC tape and used as a substitute. Best option is to dry out the white structural XPS blocks and reseat them with marine grade flotation foam.
Cheers Clark and Skipper
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i'm new to the group. Not new to Sunfish. Been sailing the same one for 40 years. it's leaky now.
I've rad a lot about separating the deck and hull, and peeling those up to get to the innards.
I haven't seen a method where one removes the coming, cleat, etc., uses a jigsaw to cut around the daggerboard opening, cockpit and mast, leaving a good sized edge to glass back onto, then separate the decks.?
This would seem to give great access to the foam blocks. If marine foam supplier is found, new foam could be shaped and glassed into place.
Also, a new thing layer of thin fiberglass cloth could be added to the underside of the deck, and the inside of the hull given the same treatment.
Perhaps fabricating a thin aluminum sheet glued to the remaining edges of the deck to make a cockpit joint reinforcement to glass onto.
The boat would never race, but it would be back for another 40 years or so.
Other than this being a lot of work, and it's probably better to buy a good used boat, what all is wrong with this idea?
Thanks!? Dave ____________________________________________"Better to light one candle than to curse the darkness"
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Re: Screw backing on Vanguard Sunfish?
I tapped out the old glue and crud, just move easy on it
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Re: Screw backing on Vanguard Sunfish?
I have no experience with tapping the backer plates. I'd go with the KISS Principle and leave it alone, just put a screw back in.
The blue hyperlinks were how the document was formatted in Word. There is no index for them online.
Cheers Kent
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Re: Screw backing on Vanguard Sunfish?
Thanks.? I couldn't see how it would be other than a metal backer but I've been surprised before.? Is it helpful to run a tap down the threads to clean out any sealant that may be there?? Or is that an additional stripping risk?
Good videos on leak testing.? Moving that to the top of my "To Do" list.??
In "The Sunfish Owner's Manual", there are a number of references to online links in blue.? Is there any index of these links online anywhere?? I can key in the URLs but the hyperlinks remain a mystery.
James Lovegren
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Re: Screw backing on Vanguars Sunfish?
The Vanguard boats have metal backer plates bonded to the hull with fiberglass strips. Go easy putting the screws back in, the plate metal is softer than the stainless screws and it is possible to strip out the backer plate. If that happens, you might get one shot at bumping up one screw size and tapping a new hole.
Now would be a good time to do an air leak test, find the leaks and fix them before she's all pretty. Check out our videos on youtube, there are several on air leak tests.??
There is a nice search function on our youtube videos. Click subscribe and you'll get a notification when we upload something new. We also have a blog with a search window, and you can subscribe to that as well for email notifications. Scroll down the right side a bit and enter an email address.?
The important thing on air leak tests is to use low volume, low pressure air. Too much air can balloon the hull and pop the deck loose from the blocks, you would be doing an inspection port for sure in that case.
Cheers! Clark and Skipper Sunfish_Sailor Group Owners
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Screw backing on Vanguars Sunfish?
Can anyone point me to any files or information on how the Vanguard Fish backed up their screws for deck hardware?? I'm rebuilding from a $60 hull and didn't seem to have any of the machine screws stripped when I backed them out.? I'm hoping to avoid inspection ports, although I know that's kind of a mantra around here.? But I'm definitely not opposed to using them if necessary.
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Hi Mark
Yes we have one of those hard to find pins with the keeper chain and screw eyelet. I sent you an email to your yahoo account. We have a few more if anyone needs one, $75 USD, shipping included to CONUS.
Cheers "Clark" Kent and Skipper
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Might have a spare pin, let me look tomorrow.?
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Hugh wanted a dehumidified spot... ?
"I thought about the ideal place would be rent a dehumidified storage room in one of those fort Knox Wearhouse type places big enough to fit hull in and run a fan through inspection holes,"
You can dehumidify everything in Arizona, we had the driest Sunfish ever out there...
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Hi Clark, Do you have a brass rudder pin and chain that you're looking to get rid of? I need one for my Sailfish. Thanks, Mark Less
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Signal Charlie
Robert Richards