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Not a fan of toggle bolts anywhere on a boat: ?they are made to work only in tension, not shear or compression, their prongs concentrate stress on small points ?- which is bad if it's on the actual

I had the problem with my old style rudder. Go ahead and put in the inspection port now. It is a pretty easy job. Then you can thru drill the hole and put on a nut and washer. If you after the

Being that the only good place for a inspection port is right where the older style rudder mounts, Idk that I would go to the effort to install an inspection port to fix a backing board on an older

Those dotted lines show the location of the foam flotation blocks. If your just dealing with the screw issue I would repair with epoxy as previously described. Installing an inspection port in the

Kristin - To get you on the water for the season, maybe insert on of those wall toggle bolts and put a bunch of sealant around the hole. [cid:image001.png@...] Richard Sent: Wednesday,

The dotted line show where the foam floatation/support blocks are inside. You want to keep from removing too much of that foam, though excess expanding foam "glue" glopped around their bases can be

I think the dotted lines suggest the placement of the closed cell foam blocks that provide both structural rigidity for the hull as well as flotation should the hull become filled with water. I have

That 50 year old backing board inside the hull is damaged.? Best to install a 6" inspection port in the middle of the back deck and replace the board.? Yes,? epoxy the hole in bottom of boat.?

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. Installing an inspection port looks easier than I imagined. Because it would have multiple benefits, I will likely do that. But I might try to epoxy it first

I agree with installing inspection port in the deck. You actually should have that anyway. I would also install one towards the bow. Given the age of the boat I'm sure there is some moisture inside.

May I suggest adding some wood flour or cut glass floss to the epoxy, to give the screw more to bite into than just resin. ?And if you contemplate ever removing the screw, maybe you wanna thread it

Yes I would over drill a bit then dry it out or use wet epoxy (push or inject it into the hole) let it dry redrill pilot hole and reset the screw, a shorter one, I usually put a little sealer on all

I would put an inspection port on the deck above and replace the backer board in the bottom of hull Sent from my Verizon Motorola Droid

Put a blind patch inside the hole and let it dry. Then build layers of fiberglass cloth up on the patch, fair, sand, paint (or

Water should not drain from there, that means someone put in too long of a screw and went all the way through the internal wooden backer block. Try thickened epoxy in the hole, THIXO or FLEXPOXY. The

Hi everyone, I was just given this Sunfish. Seems to be a 1969 model. The lower plate of the rudder mount on the bottom of the boat has a screw in it that doesn’t grab hold of anything any

? I grew up in a public sailing club. All the boats (originally Rebels, starting in 1960 and then O’Day Day Sailors started sometime in the 1970’s) were built using polyester resin. The “use

To get the patch to sit snug in the corner of your mold, give it just enough resin that it wets fully and has a surface-tension bond plastering it against the mold, but not any more resin than that

One possible technique for your corners is to first take a mold off a clean, good ?immediately adjoining section. You coat the chine or keel area with something that will prevent the epoxy from

It's actually not that hard. There's a couple of ways to go about it, depending on how big the area is. This is how I've done it on the boats I've built, but there are a ton of other ways to do