Not a fan of toggle bolts anywhere on a boat: ?they are made to work only in tension, not shear or compression, their prongs concentrate stress on small points ?- which is bad if it's on the actual fiberglass... less bad if resting on a backing board of some kind... but they also corrode pretty quickly unless made of the right materials. ?These did a number on the footrails of my Butterfly scow when the previous owner used them, so I have a bad relationship with them, I mean hate them hate them hate them. ?Your mileage may vary.
On Wednesday, July 8, 2020, 3:24:13 PM CDT, Michael King <mrmike17@...> wrote:
I had the problem with my old style rudder.? Go ahead and put in the inspection port now.? It is a pretty easy job.? Then you can thru drill the hole and put on a nut and washer.? If you after the season decide to convert to the new style rudder, the port
will already be there? If the wood is not too rotted, you can jam a piece of wood in the hole and rethread in the screw.? I have done that many times on things besides boats were a hole is rotted or just worn out.? I scored on a trade the rudder hardware so
I converted mine the? spring loaded style as opposed to the break away style.
Mr MIke
Sent from Windows Mail
Being that the only good place for a inspection port is right where the older style rudder mounts, Idk that I would go to the effort to install an inspection port to fix a backing board on an older style rudder. I would first epoxy the hole
and re drill the hole. If that didn’t hold I would use an expanding fastener. The rudder mount in that area is not a high stress area. If the rudder is attached correctly, it would not need much to hold it.?
If none of those options worked Then I would decide on if I liked that boat enough to update the rudder.?
Having said that. There are lots of good reasons to install the inspection port and update the rudder. But that’s a bigger decision.?
Rick
On Wed, Jul 8, 2020 at 12:29 PM turluck <gail@...> wrote:
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