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Re: Leak at traveler - minifish
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One possible technique for your corners is to first take a mold off a clean, good ?immediately adjoining section. You coat the chine or keel area with something that will prevent the epoxy from adhering. This is anything from a few coats of PVA to cling wrap, wax paper or polyethylene sheet from a ?ziploc bag... you lay some resin over that and press down some very light glass cloth over it. Let that cure, it pops off and now you have a copy of the contour on the inside of that piece. Butter the inside of that mold with the PVA release compound, insert epoxy and glass cloth, press it in well and let cure... ?the patch that comes out should be a perfect match in contour and surface texture for the missing/damaged area; you can cut that to suit and apply it over the rest of the repair, fair it out and sand, sand, sand... could look very "factory" if you apply enough time to it. That's not a structural repair, mind you; it's just the final layer you put on the actual repair. ? Cost-effective? heck no; almost no repairs you do really are on a really old boat, but that's not why we do them? :-) I've also learned a lot from this conversational debate and am impressed at how diplomatic everyone has been. Next: adjudicating lee-bow and windward boat situations:-)
On Tuesday, July 7, 2020, 10:17:58 AM CDT, Shawn L <shawn@...> wrote:
It's actually not that hard.? There's a couple of ways to go about it, depending on how big the area is.? This is how I've done it on the boats I've built, but there are a ton of other ways to do it. For a small spot I use a chip brush (cheap) or a 4" foam roller and put some epoxy on the area you're working on.? Then carefully lay on the fiberglass mat.? For a larger area, I place the fiberglass mat on the area dry and smooth out all the wrinkles I can then use the roller or brush to carefully (the mat will want to slide) apply some epoxy. One of the tricks I've found is to save every piece of plastic?like grocery store loyalty cards, old credit cards, etc.? They make really nice spreaders.? Once you have some epoxy on the mat, use the card to go over the entire area.? The mat takes a while to soak in the epoxy and you don't want it "floating" in the epoxy.? The card helps you press it down and lets you scrape off the excess fairly quickly.? On the first coat, you're aiming to have no bubbles in the cloth and to have the entire coth wet.? Don't try to fill in the weave of the mat now.? Just get it so it's stuck down and uniformly wet -- you'll see a color change when you do it.? Dry spots will be more whiteish.? Once you get it all wet out, use the card to scrape off (carefully) any excess epoxy.? Then you wait. You can wait until it's dry and do some touch up sanding if needed.? Or once it's barely tacky you can apply another coat.? This time you can use the roller and put more on to start to fill the weave.? This may take multiple coats, depending on the thickness of? the mat.? If you're doing multiple layers of mat this is the time to add the next layer and repeat. The plastic card lets you move the cloth a little as you go, so you should be able to apply it to a 90 degree corner, etc.? If the corner is bad, build it up with thickened epoxy (wood flour, saw dust, etc) or use fairing compound.? If there are holes and gaps you'll never get the cloth to lay right and will have air pockets. If you get air pockets, you can use a utility knife to cut them out once things are dry.? Then sand and fill the little hole, and add a new section of mat over the hole. It sounds a lot harder than it is.? It just takes time because you have to leave it alone and let it dry between coats. On Tue, Jul 7, 2020 at 10:38 AM Joel Grist <TruckLawyer@...> wrote:
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