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For those who know stuff, I bought a 2006 Impreza yesterday and drove it 3 hours home to East Tennessee. 2.5 SOHC seems to run great but we’re gonna go through it before putting it in the van (1991 2WD). I really like the RJES bell housing and I plan to order one. But I understand that the engine will be further forward than with an adapter kit. Does this cause issues when using parts from suppliers here in America whose kits use an adapter plate? I’m looking at using most of the RMW stuff, but will that work well with the bell housing? Especially their support/mount, will it still bolt up? I expect some wiggle room in the coolant plumbing and maybe exhaust. And I understand this isn’t a Lego set either. But I want to be as prepared and informed as possible before I jump. Thanks in advance -- Scotty

Hey folks, I sorted out things with temp sender (finally I drilled another hole, placed VW and wired it to the dash gauge). It works (I checked it with the Scan Gauge 2 readings). Now another challenge. I don’t know how should I connect the acceleration sender. To be more precise no clue where it should be connected to (to provide the signal). Sorry for my technical English, I guess there is room for improvements.

Hi group, I am new here. I live in Warsaw, Poland. I have a Westy 1987 with Syncro conversion done few years ago. I swap the VW 2.0 petrol engine from Golf 3 but now I have all parts ready (sourced in Germany) and a vendor car for Subaru 2.5 (ej25) conversion. What is a best solution for temp sensor connection to the original dash gauge? I have read on Samba that it is common practice to drill and install standard VW sender in the cooling manifold (I have a reversed one). Does it right solution based on your experience? Is there anything specific I should keep on the back of mind? Cheers, Maciek

I'm pulling out what's left of my hair... I have an '86 Westy that I used the RMW kit to install a 2002 Subaru Legacy Outback's EJ25 into. RMW did the wiring harness for me and I did the install in late 2018. Everything has been absolutely great with that kit and the engine. A little while back, I went to drive it and the battery was dead. I believe the problem is due to the main relay being on regardless of the ignition switch status. I have a 22611 AG51B ECU. It starts and runs great otherwise. I have tried the following: I removed all fuses under the dash. I removed all power connections to the wiring panel under the dash. I removed the ignition switch connections. I have disconnected the aux battery. I have replaced the main relay. I have removed the fuel pump relay and this doesn't change the problem I have made sure there are no shorts/burns in the back of the fuse panel under the dash. That's already happened to me once in the past - hard lesson learned there ;-) I have cleaned all grounds under dash, in rear engine compartment, on engine block, on chassis and on the transmission. Basically, the only power going anywhere at this point is the cable coming from the battery and terminating onto the "post" in the wiring block in the driver side, front part of the engine compartment. That wire also is connected to one of the two fused connections under the bench seat. I have confirmed 12v going to that fused connection. In this state, if I remove all but the middle ECU connector ("B135" in the wiring diagram) the main relay will come on. Removing B135 from the ECU does prevent the main relay from coming on. So it would seem B135 and the ECU have something to do with this problem. So, I suspected that something about that connector was triggering the main relay. If I disconnect that ECU connector (B135) I noted there was battery power on pin 7 of that connector even with everything else listed above disconnected. That doesn't seem right, does it? There should only be power on that pin with the key in and ignition on or in start position, I thought. Also, it appears that the main relay is triggered because power is sent out of B135 pin 19 ("self-shutoff control") even with the key off and out of the ignition and everything above that I listed remains disconnected. If this is covered somewhere else in this forum, I would appreciate a link to it. I simply couldn't find a reference to the same problem...similar, but not to the degree I seem to be having this problem - everything disconnected including ignition wires. Does any kind soul out there have any insight to what's going on here, please?

I have noticed a slight stumble at idle when I have come to stops over the last several months. It would happen every 10 seconds when idling for extended periods (stop lights, etc). Seemed like more of a hiccup if anything. Van has been running great besides that with no codes being thrown. Today I changed my oil and was letting van idle for an extended period and noticed that the idle was much rougher with the stumble much more frequent. Enough to throw misfire codes on all cylinders. Parts that are newer or I was able to swap for spares: plugs, wires, coil, O2 sensor, MAF sensor, knock sensor, injectors, fuel filter, and fuel pump. Tank is only a year or so old, was recently dropped and looked spotless. I had somewhat recent cleaned throttle body and IAC valve, but thought I would check they were still spotless. Smoked checked intake no apparent issues.. 1984 Westfalia with a 99 Legacy 2.2L motor installed using the RMW kit and Autoventures harness. Running a CV mounted VSS. Short video: https://youtube.com/shorts/AkHw6Cd9N9w?feature=share Looking for advice or ideas on where to possibly look next. Thanks in advance. -Will

I'm really close to finishing the install of our manual EJ25 out of a '02 Legacy with Small Car conversion kit, into our '88 Westy, but I'm stuck on some wiring issues. I'm really hoping someone in the group might be interested in helping via video sort out the last of the question I have so I can get this beast back on the road. I'd be more than happy to pay for your time. If you're interested let me know what works on your end and I'll send out a Team's meeting request. A sincere thank you to everyone from the group who's helped me along the way. It's been quite an adventure. Stay safe, Rich

Hey all, I’ve got a KEP EJ22 conversion from a 1992 Legacy in my 1982 Vanagon. I suddenly started getting a stumble/loss of power/misfire at cruising speed that is exacerbated under acceleration, primarily when rolling on the throttle after cruising at a constant speed. It’s very intermittent, but is becoming more frequent and I am currently 600 miles from home but have a few free days to troubleshoot. The OBD1 computer is not throwing any codes. The van has the following new parts: Injectors Fuel pump Fuel filter MAF sensor IACV Camshaft position sensor Fresh long block from a very reputable engine builder Harness from AutoVentures It almost feels like a short in the ignition circuit with how intermittent it is. If anyone has had this same issue or has a suggestion of where to start troubleshooting, I’m all ears. I’ve got a decent compliment of tools with me and a factory service manual for my Vanagon as well as the 1992 Legacy that the engine was pulled from so I can run a decent diagnostic. Thanks in advance!

I have a small car set up… ‘85 Vanagon camper… 2.5L Subaru… manual and I am replacing the CV joints. The ECU pickup on the CV joint is a clocking plate and I just noticed that there is not very much threads availabile for the transaxle side… less than 1/4” per bolt. I had been using the stock 2 hole torque washers in addition. Are these washers necessary when using the ECU clocking plate… should I use longer bolts? Are they special bolts—grade8? Thanks for any help, Rod

Hello members - my first posting, be kind... :) I am not a mechanic, just a hobbyist with limited knowledge but wanting to be more self-reliant. I've seen that this group is made up of many very talented, knowledgeable members. Thanks in advance for any help you can offer. My issue: '87 Vanagon, updated the engine to a Subaru Legacy 1990-1994 model, end of 2022. ODB1. The engine has generally performed brilliantly compared to the older waterboxer (speed! climbing hills!). However, one show stopper has kept me from enjoying this performance increase. During cold weather (defined as anything colder than about 45 degrees), the engine will not start. It turns over effortlessly, but never "catches", for lack of a better description. As the temperature rises to somewhere above this, it starts easily. I have a video - about 197 mb - that demonstrates the problem. I think that is too large for this message system. Any way to get the video out to interested members? I have checked the grounding, it appears solid. The original team who did the conversion - name withheld for now - recently changed the MAF sensor, put a different computer in, and checked fuel pressure, which was ok. No improvement. If anything it starts a bit rougher, much lower idle than before the changes. Perhaps they modified the idle system, or the computer is now affecting something else. I am not sure. Now they are thinking to check the crank shaft sensor. I will be taking it to them again (6 hour drive from my house!) next week for round two. It is REALLY hard to test as the company I am working with is in San Diego area which doesn't often get the cold weather to test against. And now spring is here. But the intention is to be able to visit more extreme areas (mountains, deserts, etc) and I simply can't take the vehicle into these areas currently. I am hoping to learn where we should be looking. My thought is that a sensor or two or three may be feeding the ECU incorrect or incomplete information after a cold night in the elements. Anywhere else we should be considering? Many thanks for any input you are willing to share. -Terry

Hi . im slowly breaking in my newly restored drive train ( 1994 AT 2.2 LEGACY OBD1 donor in a 86 syncro westy) and after a 150 mile stretch all i got for codes was the normal AT neutral codes that neve affected me for 100k . startup (without touching the gas pedal0 always goes to 2k and gradually drops to 1.125k . Ill admit i did a ton of low mileage runs and diagnostic reads using evo scan an B10 . anyway that long run was great and motor is strong .. today i did a 20 mile highway run and as i came off the exit i got a rough running engine and a flashing check engine signal , my first thought was i had a plug wire come loose . pulled over let everything cool down (happened to be at costco so .. hotdog) . getting really used to reading the codes so i did. saw a code 24 . used my handy dandy code sheet I have taped on to the ECU. . . said ECU turns off 1 or 2 injectors to reduce idle speed for certain RPMs, speed, and throttle OK explains rough running so i decide to wipe codes before opening the engine hatch. and voila no more code or rough running .. for me that's a worst case scenario . i donno what happened or why its "fixed" . got home no issues I have mentioned weird throttle position sensor readings here before but that never got much traction & i get good readings from it . looking at my files i also see code 24 described as - Air control valve or circuit (exc. Justy); Idle speed control solenoid valve (Justy) and Code 24 With the IAC code 24 thrown, the ECU will use what is called 'fuel cut' to reduce excessive engine RPM. It turns off 1 or 2 injectors to maintain idle speed, for certain values of RPM, vehicle speed, and throttle position. This can result in a rough idle, and poor idle exhaust emissions values. Most often with the IAC code, the IAC valve just needs to be cleaned. These are the best resources I have found for IAC cleaning: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781242 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=237938&start=443 http://www.scoobymods.com/clean-idle-valve-ej20k-t8329.html?t=8329 (Note: this last one is for the EJ20K engine, but has some good tips) On some early EJ22s, there is an idle adjustment/air bypass screw on the intake body, which is used to adjust the idle air only to the point that the IAC duty cycle remains in range. .now i know i will get the clean the IAC comment ..but i can tell you its clean .. can it be too clean ? i used california "organic" brake cleaner .. i can't see any way to lube anything . possibly just too old .. Probably 220k miles . i am suspicious of vacuum hoses ..but its a guess. does anyone have a lived experience to share . thanks . m

Greetings, Since taking over SCP 2 years ago we have been slowly revamping, creating, and building new solutions for our beloved Vanagons. I want to thank everyone who has responded for beta testing the next generation of interface board. The boards should be here in the coming weeks for QA and we will reach out to people interested! In the meantime, we have been working hard to stand up production for “no-donor” harnesses. We are live and scalable. Imagine a world where the harness is on the shelf ready to go or the lead time is a few days? There is no need to hack together old shoddy wires that have been through thousands of heating and cooling cycles. And for those of you in 49 states (sorry CA)—this should be a welcomed addition to arsenal of products to create your next generation of Vanagon using drive by wire motors with higher HP and better reliability profiles. We will be evaluating more model/year combinations and there will be some opportunities to create harnesses to satisfy more people’s needs. Austin Nichols Owner/Engineer (253) 473-2474 www.smallcar.com View our terms and conditions https://smallcar.com/terms/

My '91 Subie Vanagon just started backfiring on cold start. Engine runs fine once started. What does that mean? What should I tell my mechanic to do? Thank you, John

Prior to attempting to install a Tribeca alternator into my 1994 Subaru Legacy motor, everything was working properly. The newer style alternator has a different plug so I was trying to rewire the alternator but most of screwed something up. Now the engine isn't cranking, the fuel pump doesn't come on and the relays don't cycle. I've been scratching my head trying to figure out what went wrong. The fuses at the junction box are intact. There is 12 v at the junction box and Starter, however when the KEY is turned to the START position the voltage drops to about 5 volts. I'm a novice at the electrical stuff, so I'm looking for some advice. Thank YOu

Dear Forum, I have a 86 van with a 92 EJ22 engine that blew. Can I replace the long block with an ej22 from a 96 legacy (non outback)? Thank you for your help. C.

Hi . I am doing my best with evoscan without support . quick question . I know there are many ways to get a speed signal back to the ECU . Mine is a sensor off the back of the speedometer . i drove while logging data with the EVOscan yesterday and to my surprise I am reading a much higher speed than indicated on the speedometer of GPS . . I have used this setup for 100k miles on the previous longblock so i cant imagine it's that big of an issue but has anyone seen the need to adjust the speed feed ...

Subject says it all. Have 2.5 installed with Precis ECU the harness conversion done by Busaru. Stock '91 auto tranny and stock 14 inch wheels. At 65 mph and above the engine starts bucking. The only way to stop it is to reduce speed below 65 mph. On a few occasions I have managed to hit 70 before bucking sets in. At 70 mph the tach reads 4000 rpm. Has anyone got any ideas about the problem and how to fix it? I should be able to turn 6500 rpm easily with this engine but I have no particular need to do faster than 70 in most cases. The VSS is Busaru and is set 4 mm clearance from stub axle flange bolts. All comments and and suggestions would be appreciated,

I'm working through some issues on a recently installed 2.5L Frankenmotor (2.2 heads) in an '87 GL Syncro. The numbers on the ECM are: 22611 AB414 JAI 18000 RT8 4910 The VIN of the Subaru donor car is 45(could be S)B3K655057324604 The engine wiring harness was modified by a local mechanic. He used either Small Car or KEP instructions. I have copies of the schematics that apply, but the source isn't marked on the pages. There's a VSS on the back of the speedo, sourced from GoWesty. I've verified that the read lead is connected to switched 12V, the black to ground, and the gray to the ECM connector B84, pin 57. In 4th gear at 4000 RPM, which registers about 67 MPH on the speedo, the engine falls flat on it's face until RPMs drop. At that point it will start pulling strongly again. If I just leave my foot flat on the floor on the throttle pedal, RPMs will cut at 4000, then pick up again until it hits 4000 RPM again, and just keep repeating until I lift my foot a little to stay under the 4000 RPM ceiling. The engine pulls cleanly past 5000 RPM in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears. I hooked up a known good Fluke DVM and measured a signal on the VSS lead that fluctuates between 0 and 4.82 volts as the van moves. The leads went between ground and pin 57 of connector B84 to the ECM, so I'm pretty sure that the VSS is doing its job. At speeds over a walking pace, the DVM display averages the readings at about 2.4 volts, but the instantaneous reading bar graph at the bottom of the display shows the signal is still fluctuating. I'm trying to understand how the rev limiter works, and specifically why it isn't cutting out in the lower gears. I'd also like to know how to work around the cut out, or where to check for the cause. Thanks in advance, Scot