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Downstream fuse each of the ignition relay battery power suppy wires - they go to the ECU + other circuits to the engine for injectors,solenoids etc. to see if one blows?

I like the idea of downstream fuses to isolate faults. I did that with the fuel pump circuit - after I had replaced the pump and relay. Now the only place this circuit goes after the fuse is the OBD2

Sorry Sommay.? You crashed an existing thread to ask your question. I'll delete your post. Although I question the validity of your question (you'll get a thousand answers, all with the replying

I had a LUK Vanagon clutch kit in my van for ~85,000 miles without issues. I recently replaced it with a Sachs I'd bought on sale from Peter at Volks Cafe a hundred years ago and it is working fine,

Hi all, I just swapped out my original ej22 engine for one that's a bit fresher in my CA compliant KEP based conversion and it's exacerbated some old symptoms that I now think are caused by a slipping

Also: VW frequently runs a high current line to multiple downstream loads. I've been known to install downstream fuses (or fuse boxes) to help me isolate and identify faults. The new blade-style fuse

I just ran a new wire, fused appropriately, of course. I love that my home is wired in conduit, and transferred that lesson to my campers. I now like to run a few (generally plastic) conduits that are

Try to replicate the issue at home to diagnose. Get the engine hot, start moving the harness or car and see if the fuse blows. It might help narrow down source of short.

Have you installed the new alternator? When the engine is hot, if you connect the two green test connectors and turn the key to ON and let everything cycle for a while,does the fuse blow? Check the

Intermittent faults are harder to diagnose.

VSS replaced and still blowing the fuse on bumps. Looks like I may need to dissect the harness.

VSS power would be 12v ignition or 5v sensor. I would think you would be blowing the 15 amp ignition fuse if it was the VSS.

Well you can put a wire cap on it and drive around bounce things around and see if it works worst case scenario you'll have to clear the codes on your ECU periodically. I don't remember what year or

It's been working most of the time. I thought I would crawl under and investigate since the VSS was one of the last things on the circuit that I had not replaced. It looked like it had come in contact

I'd be surprised the VSS would blow such a big fuse. Hope I'm wrong. I guess you could put a wire nut on it to keep it from shorting tied up and see how it goes. I'd also advise not driving without a

I think I may have found the culprit! VSS looks like it was occasionally hitting the cv joint and was shattered inside. I'll get a new one installed and report back once I test drive. Thanks for all

re: resettable fuse I recently got these for a different issue. Should work for you https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F9KJDWQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Andy Vanis USA and Whatsapp +1(505)

Your problems is very similar to an electrical issue I just had on my dad's van. Same fuse was blowing (15amp) in the junction box. Some days it would run fine, while others the fuse would blow as

Epoxy’d the bolt back into the black box. No change in symptom.

In my haste to finish my conversion and not havng butt connectors I just twisted and taped the wire from the alt to the post in the black box and forgot about it. Years later I had a no start where