I like the idea of downstream fuses to isolate faults. I did that with the fuel pump circuit - after I had replaced the pump and relay. Now the only place this circuit goes after the fuse is the OBD2 port, the ECU, and the main relay, which has been replaced as part of the troubleshooting/part swapping/stabbing in the dark process I'm going through.
I have been led to believe - and
please correct me if I am wrong - that what is causing the fuse to blow is downstream of the fuse. This would eliminate the alternator (even though I replaced that also), the starter (I have checked the connections and everything is solid), and the battery as well as any circuits powered directly from the battery up under the dash.
I have pulled the harness out of the van. Now that it's done I sort of regret it, but my thinking was that I needed to follow that wire from the fuse to all it's ends. That is done and nothing was loose or bare or concerning. I guess I am now leaning toward finding a replacement ECU from another 28 yr old subaru.
Try to replicate the issue at home to diagnose. Get the engine hot, start moving the harness or car and see if the fuse blows. It might help narrow down source of short.?
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Tried this last week and no luck with shaking the harness or banging on the ECU and OBD2 port.
Have you installed the new alternator? When the engine is hot, if you connect the two green test connectors and turn the key to ON and let everything cycle for a while,does the fuse blow? Check the starter and alt connections and the wiring from alt to black box post.
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Alternator is in. Wish I would have tried your suggestion before pulling the harness! I'll do that when I put it all back in and see.
