Re: 30 amp fuse blows at high temp
Downstream fuse each of the ignition relay battery power suppy wires - they go to the ECU + other circuits to the engine for injectors,solenoids etc. to see if one blows?
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Re: 30 amp fuse blows at high temp
I like the idea of downstream fuses to isolate faults. I did that with the fuel pump circuit - after I had replaced the pump and relay. Now the only place this circuit goes after the fuse is the OBD2 port, the ECU, and the main relay, which has been replaced as part of the troubleshooting/part swapping/stabbing in the dark process I'm going through. I have been led to believe - and please correct me if I am wrong - that what is causing the fuse to blow is downstream of the fuse. This would eliminate the alternator (even though I replaced that also), the starter (I have checked the connections and everything is solid), and the battery as well as any circuits powered directly from the battery up under the dash. I have pulled the harness out of the van. Now that it's done I sort of regret it, but my thinking was that I needed to follow that wire from the fuse to all it's ends. That is done and nothing was loose or bare or concerning. I guess I am now leaning toward finding a replacement ECU from another 28 yr old subaru.
Try to replicate the issue at home to diagnose. Get the engine hot, start moving the harness or car and see if the fuse blows. It might help narrow down source of short.?
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Tried this last week and no luck with shaking the harness or banging on the ECU and OBD2 port.
Have you installed the new alternator? When the engine is hot, if you connect the two green test connectors and turn the key to ON and let everything cycle for a while,does the fuse blow? Check the starter and alt connections and the wiring from alt to black box post.
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Alternator is in. Wish I would have tried your suggestion before pulling the harness! I'll do that when I put it all back in and see.
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Re: KEP conversion clutch pressure plate questions
Sorry Sommay.? You crashed an existing thread to ask your question.
I'll delete your post.
Although I question the validity of your question (you'll get a thousand answers, all with the replying parties opinions) I would urge you to post the question in a new thread/topic.
But here's some decent advice.....head out to any of the online sources that list vanagons for sale and do your own research.? Most will clearly indicate that they have converted to Subaru power.
Best,
Brent
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Re: KEP conversion clutch pressure plate questions
I had a LUK Vanagon clutch kit in my van for ~85,000 miles without issues. I recently replaced it with a Sachs I'd bought on sale from Peter at Volks Cafe a hundred years ago and it is working fine, too.
On Wed, Jul 26, 2023 at 2:52?PM Sommay Keoprasith via <skeoprasith= [email protected]> wrote:
Hi all,
What is the price tag?for vanagon carat that has completed Subaru ej25 conversion on it ?
Thanks? Sk
On Wednesday, July 26, 2023, 2:36 PM, thebluebusiscallingus@... wrote: Hi all, I just swapped out my original ej22 engine for one that's a bit fresher in my CA compliant KEP based conversion and it's exacerbated some old symptoms that I now think are caused by a slipping clutch. Since the KEP flywheel and kennedy pressure plate have some strange leopard print patterning on them I figured it'd be wise to swap out a new pressure plate and friction disc and have the flywheel resurfaced. From what I've read online (with one exception) folks say that the stock vanagon replacement pressure plate is compatible with our conversions. Is the difference between something like the Sachs unit and the KEP unit simply spring pressure and what effects would a driver notice in operation? Kennedy say that their stage 1 clutch is rated for 220 ft. lb. torque at the flywheel while stage 2 is rated for 270. I guess I went for stage 1, and I'm fairly certain even the NA ej25s don't break the 200 mark, so is there any really good reason to spend the extra cash on another KEP unit? Thanks! Also, just for fun, here's my super fashionable leopard print flywheel: 
-- Jake
------------------------------------------
Crescent Beach, BC
-----------------------------------------------------
1984 GL 1.9 WBX
1986 Westy Weekender with 2000 2.5 SOHC Subaru, 5 speed transaxle & PosiTrac Differential
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KEP conversion clutch pressure plate questions
Hi all, I just swapped out my original ej22 engine for one that's a bit fresher in my CA compliant KEP based conversion and it's exacerbated some old symptoms that I now think are caused by a slipping clutch. Since the KEP flywheel and kennedy pressure plate have some strange leopard print patterning on them I figured it'd be wise to swap out a new pressure plate and friction disc and have the flywheel resurfaced. From what I've read online (with one exception) folks say that the stock vanagon replacement pressure plate is compatible with our conversions. Is the difference between something like the Sachs unit and the KEP unit simply spring pressure and what effects would a driver notice in operation? Kennedy say that their stage 1 clutch is rated for 220 ft. lb. torque at the flywheel while stage 2 is rated for 270. I guess I went for stage 1, and I'm fairly certain even the NA ej25s don't break the 200 mark, so is there any really good reason to spend the extra cash on another KEP unit? Thanks! Also, just for fun, here's my super fashionable leopard print flywheel: 
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Re: 30 amp fuse blows at high temp
Also: VW frequently runs a high current line to multiple downstream loads.? I've been known to install downstream fuses (or fuse boxes) to help me isolate and identify faults.? The new blade-style fuse boxes are cheap, compact, and have LEDs that indicate which fuse is blown.
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Re: 30 amp fuse blows at high temp
I just ran a new wire, fused appropriately, of course.? ? I love that my home is wired in conduit, and transferred that lesson to my campers. I now like to run a few (generally plastic) conduits that are sufficiently oversized to permit me to easily and safely add additional circuits as needed.? Harbor Freight sells 'fish tape' cheaply, which is an essential tool when working with conduit.
Note: conduit is cheap.? don't run 110 in the same conduit as low voltage?? Eric Freudenthal
sent from my mobile
?VSS replaced and still blowing the fuse on bumps.?
Looks like I may need to dissect the harness.?
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Re: 30 amp fuse blows at high temp
Try to replicate the issue at home to diagnose. Get the engine hot, start moving the harness or car and see if the fuse blows. It might help narrow down source of short.?
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Re: 30 amp fuse blows at high temp
Have you installed the new alternator? When the engine is hot, if you connect the two green test connectors and turn the key to ON and let everything cycle for a while,does the fuse blow? Check the starter and alt connections and the wiring from alt to black box post.
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Re: 30 amp fuse blows at high temp
Intermittent faults are harder to diagnose.?
?VSS replaced and still blowing the fuse on bumps.?
Looks like I may need to dissect the harness.?
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Re: 30 amp fuse blows at high temp
?VSS replaced and still blowing the fuse on bumps.?
Looks like I may need to dissect the harness.?
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Re: 30 amp fuse blows at high temp
VSS power would be 12v ignition or 5v sensor. I would think you would be blowing the 15 amp ignition fuse if it was the VSS.
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Re: 30 amp fuse blows at high temp
Well you can put a wire cap on it and drive around bounce things around and see if it works worst case scenario you'll have to clear the codes on your ECU periodically. I don't remember what year or code reader you have but if it's ODB2 and you have torque you can do that very easily Andy
505-304-5306
It's been working most of the time. I thought I would crawl under and investigate since the VSS was one of the last things on the circuit that I had not replaced. It looked like it had come in contact with the CV joint at some point so I tried to back it off. The bolt that houses the electronics came apart in my hand and is now as it appears in the photo. Looked and performed pretty much as normal before I messed with it. Really hoping it is the issue.
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Re: 30 amp fuse blows at high temp
It's been working most of the time. I thought I would crawl under and investigate since the VSS was one of the last things on the circuit that I had not replaced. It looked like it had come in contact with the CV joint at some point so I tried to back it off. The bolt that houses the electronics came apart in my hand and is now as it appears in the photo. Looked and performed pretty much as normal before I messed with it. Really hoping it is the issue.
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Re: 30 amp fuse blows at high temp
I'd be surprised the VSS would blow such a big fuse. Hope I'm wrong. I guess you could put a wire nut on it to keep it from shorting tied up and see how it goes. I'd also advise not driving without a VSS But I guess you've been doing it for a while looking at that one in the picture. Andy
505-304-5306
I think I may have found the culprit! VSS looks like it was occasionally hitting the cv joint and was shattered inside. I'll get a new one installed and report back once I test drive. Thanks for all the suggestions!
Wish I could find a local replacement so I could take it camping this weekend - leaving tomorrow!
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Re: 30 amp fuse blows at high temp
I think I may have found the culprit! VSS looks like it was occasionally hitting the cv joint and was shattered inside. I'll get a new one installed and report back once I test drive. Thanks for all the suggestions!
Wish I could find a local replacement so I could take it camping this weekend - leaving tomorrow!
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Re: 30 amp fuse blows at high temp
re: resettable fuse
I recently got these for a different issue.? Should work for you
Andy Vanis USA and Whatsapp +1(505) 304-5306
Your problems is very similar to an electrical issue I just had on my dad's van. Same fuse was blowing (15amp) in the junction box. Some days it would run fine, while others the fuse would blow as soon as the ignition was turned on. You have a short somewhere blowing that fuse. I purchased a resettable blade fuse -and this helped in troubleshooting the issue as I could reset and disconnect and test when the problem happened. If its related to temp, let warm up in your driveway.?My issue turned out to be an exposed wire that would ground when going over bumps or when there was vibration causing it to short.
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Re: 30 amp fuse blows at high temp
Your problems is very similar to an electrical issue I just had on my dad's van. Same fuse was blowing (15amp) in the junction box. Some days it would run fine, while others the fuse would blow as soon as the ignition was turned on. You have a short somewhere blowing that fuse. I purchased a resettable blade fuse -and this helped in troubleshooting the issue as I could reset and disconnect and test when the problem happened. If its related to temp, let warm up in your driveway.?My issue turned out to be an exposed wire that would ground when going over bumps or when there was vibration causing it to short.
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Re: 30 amp fuse blows at high temp
Epoxy¡¯d the bolt back into the black box.
No change in symptom.?
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Re: 30 amp fuse blows at high temp
In my haste to finish my conversion and not havng butt connectors I just twisted and taped the wire from the alt to the post in the black box and forgot about it. Years later I had a no start where the battery voltage to the harness was dropping out. I connected a wire from the alt across the engine to the black box post as a temporary fix until I found my poor,oxidized connection near the alt and fixed it with a butt connector. I had never had a 20 or 10 amp fuse blow for the battery+ connection to the harness.
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