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Re: (unknown) Optima Battery - OFF Topic

 

I think this OFF Topic Thread has gone long enough.

Tom
Moderator


Re: (unknown)

Joel VanderKwaak
 

You can mount the optima batteries on their sides. No need to do any
cutting.

On Thu, Apr 5, 2012 at 11:48 AM, Mark <wenholzm@...> wrote:

**




There are great posts in the samba about this. Be careful that the side
mounts are well connected, when you cut the top posts the connection with
the side mounts are afected and will not pass current, this happened to me.
You will need to jam in a screw at the top to ensure a good connection


--- In subaruvanagon@..., Michael Hiel <michael.hiel@...>
wrote:

Oh wise ones, just completed a conversion on my syncro westy. The aux.
battery was in the engine compartment, had to move it up under drivers
seat. Just bought a new yellow top
Optima before the conversion. It looks like the Optima will fit if I saw
off the top posts (still has size posts) any reason why this wouldn't work ?
Michael Hiel
Gardenwwerks
Sent from my iPad


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


(No subject)

Mark
 

There are great posts in the samba about this. Be careful that the side mounts are well connected, when you cut the top posts the connection with the side mounts are afected and will not pass current, this happened to me. You will need to jam in a screw at the top to ensure a good connection

--- In subaruvanagon@..., Michael Hiel <michael.hiel@...> wrote:

Oh wise ones, just completed a conversion on my syncro westy. The aux. battery was in the engine compartment, had to move it up under drivers seat. Just bought a new yellow top
Optima before the conversion. It looks like the Optima will fit if I saw off the top posts (still has size posts) any reason why this wouldn't work ?
Michael Hiel
Gardenwwerks
Sent from my iPad


Re: (unknown)

 

Might be a good question for optima or anyone on thesamba or
vanagon.com. I'm sure that someone out there has lived through the
problem you're up against.

--
Brent Weide
Portland, Oregon
www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/


Re: SVX code 27

 

I looked all over...even googled, and couldn't find any mention of a
code 27 for OBD1 for subaru.
Found a listing for toyotas,
Toyota vehicles 1988-95: Code 27 Sub-oxygen sensor signal or heater
circuit fault
Jeep: code 27 is fuel delivery system
Dodge: same as jeep

You very sure your code reading method is sound?
Brent
--
Brent Weide
Portland, Oregon
www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/


Re: 91 Vanagon SVX Check Engine Light

Kent or Jackie Ashton
 

Probably 1200 ohms is about right. There are lots of resistor calculators on the web if you know the LED values. Use alternator voltage as supply voltage (13-14V). Here's one:


-Kent

On Apr 5, 2012, at 2:18 AM, Christopher wrote:

Thanks for your help. I put a 200k ohm resistor inline as suggested by Mao at SmallCar. It's too much resistance. I can only see the light when it is night. I will try the 800 ohm resistor you are suggesting and see how it turns out.

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "larryalofs" <alofs@...> wrote:

I am not very familiar with the SVX, but I can tell you my approach putting an EJ22 into my '91.
The ECU turns the CEL on by supplying a ground. This means that the LED will be connected to +12v (thru a resistor)all the time. To make the connection to the ECU I used the wire that had been part of the high speed oil pressure warning system on the WBX. I avoided the big connector by cutting that wire nearby and using an insulated spade connector to connect to the wire that I added leading to the LED. I found +12v somewhere on the instrument cluster and used a resistor of about 800 ohms if I recall correctly, bringing that supply to the yellow LED that I glued into the unused OX position. I used a sharp probe to scratch thru the black coating nearby, inscribing the letters: ENG so it would be illuminated like the other symbols nearby.
Good luck. Remember that polarity matters on an LED.

Larry A.


--- In subaruvanagon@..., "Christopher" <cashinhurst@> wrote:

I was wondering about installing an LED in the position where an OXS light used to go in pre 87 Vans for the Check Engine Light for my 91 Van with SVX motor. I followed the track back and it dead ends. Looks like a diode/resistor/something is missing to make the connection for the ground signal to get to the light from the 14 pin connector. Can anyone help?

Thanks



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



Re: 91 Vanagon SVX Check Engine Light

Christopher
 

Thanks for your help. I put a 200k ohm resistor inline as suggested by Mao at SmallCar. It's too much resistance. I can only see the light when it is night. I will try the 800 ohm resistor you are suggesting and see how it turns out.

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "larryalofs" <alofs@...> wrote:

I am not very familiar with the SVX, but I can tell you my approach putting an EJ22 into my '91.
The ECU turns the CEL on by supplying a ground. This means that the LED will be connected to +12v (thru a resistor)all the time. To make the connection to the ECU I used the wire that had been part of the high speed oil pressure warning system on the WBX. I avoided the big connector by cutting that wire nearby and using an insulated spade connector to connect to the wire that I added leading to the LED. I found +12v somewhere on the instrument cluster and used a resistor of about 800 ohms if I recall correctly, bringing that supply to the yellow LED that I glued into the unused OX position. I used a sharp probe to scratch thru the black coating nearby, inscribing the letters: ENG so it would be illuminated like the other symbols nearby.
Good luck. Remember that polarity matters on an LED.

Larry A.


--- In subaruvanagon@..., "Christopher" <cashinhurst@> wrote:

I was wondering about installing an LED in the position where an OXS light used to go in pre 87 Vans for the Check Engine Light for my 91 Van with SVX motor. I followed the track back and it dead ends. Looks like a diode/resistor/something is missing to make the connection for the ground signal to get to the light from the 14 pin connector. Can anyone help?

Thanks


Re: SVX code 27

 

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "jandj342" <lagunarace@...> wrote:

Anyone know what code 27 would be for an OBD 1 SVX? The print out I have doesn't show that one. Thanks, John
Should mention, my print out is from Brent in the files under SVX engine codes.


SVX code 27

 

Any know what code 27 would be for an OBD 1 SVX? The print out I have doesn't show that one. Thanks, John


(No subject)

 

Oh wise ones, just completed a conversion on my syncro westy. The aux. battery was in the engine compartment, had to move it up under drivers seat. Just bought a new yellow top
Optima before the conversion. It looks like the Optima will fit if I saw off the top posts (still has size posts) any reason why this wouldn't work ?
Michael Hiel
Gardenwwerks


Re: TDI Starter Swap Report

 

Wondering if I should add this to my list of items to do for my up coming conversion.

Matt

--- In subaruvanagon@..., Brent Weide <brent.weide@...> wrote:

1991 VW Vanagon w/ Automatic Transmission
1999 Phase 1 DOHC EJ25.
Stock Vanagon Starter: (Bosch SR25X)

After my 99 DOHC EJ25 had been running for awhile and was well warmed
up i'd notice that more often than not, the stock starter would
struggle to turn the engine over. Gave the symptoms of a tired
battery and urged me to issue a silent plea in order to get her to
fire up. She always did but not without at least a little worry.
I did research on the following possible replacement options:
65-89 Porsche 911 Bosch SR68X (fits with modifications to mating flange
Gear Reduction Starter
TDI Starter (requires adaptor plate) SR0409X or SR0408X (fits
1998-2003 TDI Beetles. MK-4 Body Style 1999.5-2003 Golf and Jetta)

I ended up going with the TDI starter and adaptor flange. I chose the
SR0409X model starter as it has a bit more power. I found it out on
ebay for about $86 USD including shipping.
I purchased my adaptor flange from Westy Ventures
(). I paid $72 USD including
shipping.

Result:
The installation was a breeze. I did have to build a small pigtail
which allowed me to feed my ignition line and subaru ecu start signal
wires to the starter. I also had to modify my vanagon alternator wire
connector a bit to allow it to fit on the shorter stud on the new
starter. The rest was a simple process of bolting up the flange and
starter and testing.
The sound of the starter is very different than the stock vanagon
starter which takes some getting used to. It turns the engine much
faster and starts her up quicker. There is absolutely no strain with
a warm engine anymore. It turns the engine as fast as, or faster
than, the subaru starter when the engine was still in it's donor car.
I'd recommend this replacement to anyone who is experiencing symptoms
like i did and wants to improve starting performance.

All the best,
Brent



--
Brent Weide
Portland, Oregon
www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/


Re: 95' EJ25 DOHC 's Oil cooler size

 

Hi,

We live in Thailand and there are many of us , T3 EJ25 , have the same problem - the engine's head and overheating.

That make me wonder that the heat exchanger ( oil cooler ) was too small.

I installed the oil-temp-guage to my 95' EJ25 n/a and I ve seen that oil temp went above 110C ( 230F ) but the VW 's water temp display so low , under the led. This always happen when drive in high speed , 4000+ rpm.

This water temp gauge fools the driver that the engine still fine , but it is not.

So I wonder that maybe subaru use the same size of oil cooler inside both 22 and 25 n/a. And the bigger one in newer engine.

Sent from iPhone

On 3 ??.?. 2555, at 21:17, Brent Weide <brent.weide@...> wrote:

Hanniboon:
You are talking about the oil cooler that spins into the spot between
the oil filter and engine case, yes?
Not too many of the USDM engines have the coolers that I've worked
with. I installed a Forester (2004) that had the oil cooler which I
removed because I couldn't easily find a way to plumb the coolant
lines without interfering with the smallcar engine carrier.
The oil coolers for impreza 2.5's that i've seen have been around 77mm
in diameter by 42mm in depth. Not sure about svx's or ej22's.
all the best,
Brent
--
Brent Weide
Portland, Oregon
www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/


Re: scan gauge II - problems

theoldred90
 

Thanks for the help.
After reading the post about settings I went in and changed each setting until it stayed on and updated. I should of written which setting it was b/c i don't remember already. Now to run it under the van and mount it - tomorrows project.
thanks again


Re: TDI Starter Swap Report

mario
 

I stuck a TDI starter in my syncro last summer and the work to get it in wasn't difficult, a few minutes of grinding and it was in place and happy. The rebuilt bosch TDI starter was a big improvement for turning over my EJ22 over the bosch 1hp starter that I removed.

Mario

--- In subaruvanagon@..., Leon Korkin <korkwood@...> wrote:

It's huge PITA to install TDI starter in Syncro, requiring grinding
difflock actuator and a bit of starter itself just to get it in
I tried and gave up
My old stock starter works just fine with 2.5 Suby
Not all TDI starters are good, chinese made are crap
Leon

On 4/3/2012 6:10 PM, Brent Weide wrote:

Terry: My recommendation - as per my writeup, is that the tdi starter
is far superior to the stock vanagon starter. My vanagon starter was
fresh so my comparison is new against new.
I believe you'll appreciate the torque in the tdi starter, especially
when your engine is warm.
Brent

On Tue, Apr 3, 2012 at 4:36 PM, Sean Garrett <doit.outdoors@...
<mailto:doit.outdoors%40yahoo.com>> wrote:
I have a stock starter in my 1987 Syncro (2.5also), been working
fine for years (knock on wood)


Sean G


________________________________
From: Terry <gannont15@... <mailto:gannont15%40yahoo.com>>
To: subaruvanagon@...
<mailto:subaruvanagon%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 3, 2012 4:24 PM
Subject: [subaruvanagon] Re: TDI Starter Swap Report



i have a 1991 Westy Syncro with it's second 2.5L soon to be
installed. I was running into the same problem before the motor blew.

I was planning on putting in a NEW STOCK started form my van. I
recall reading somewhere it had enough crankin power.

Should I go with the TDI or stick with the stock guy. I do not
believe there is much of a difference in price.

Thanks

--- In subaruvanagon@...
<mailto:subaruvanagon%40yahoogroups.com>, Brent Weide
<brent.weide@> wrote:

1991 VW Vanagon w/ Automatic Transmission
1999 Phase 1 DOHC EJ25.
Stock Vanagon Starter: (Bosch SR25X)

After my 99 DOHC EJ25 had been running for awhile and was well warmed
up i'd notice that more often than not, the stock starter would
struggle to turn the engine over. Gave the symptoms of a tired
battery and urged me to issue a silent plea in order to get her to
fire up. She always did but not without at least a little worry.
I did research on the following possible replacement options:
65-89 Porsche 911 Bosch SR68X (fits with modifications to mating flange
Gear Reduction Starter
TDI Starter (requires adaptor plate) SR0409X or SR0408X (fits
1998-2003 TDI Beetles. MK-4 Body Style 1999.5-2003 Golf and Jetta)

I ended up going with the TDI starter and adaptor flange. I chose the
SR0409X model starter as it has a bit more power. I found it out on
ebay for about $86 USD including shipping.
I purchased my adaptor flange from Westy Ventures
(). I paid $72 USD including
shipping.

Result:
The installation was a breeze. I did have to build a small pigtail
which allowed me to feed my ignition line and subaru ecu start signal
wires to the starter. I also had to modify my vanagon alternator wire
connector a bit to allow it to fit on the shorter stud on the new
starter. The rest was a simple process of bolting up the flange and
starter and testing.
The sound of the starter is very different than the stock vanagon
starter which takes some getting used to. It turns the engine much
faster and starts her up quicker. There is absolutely no strain with
a warm engine anymore. It turns the engine as fast as, or faster
than, the subaru starter when the engine was still in it's donor car.
I'd recommend this replacement to anyone who is experiencing symptoms
like i did and wants to improve starting performance.

All the best,
Brent



--
Brent Weide
Portland, Oregon
www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/







------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


--
Brent Weide
Portland, Oregon
www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: 2002 rs impresa ej25 prep install quesitons

 

You got a good plan.
Use OEM quality parts, good place to buy timing belt(Bando) and
idlers(Koyo and NSK) is Pelham auto parts. Water pump by Paraut
If you remove oil pump replace it with late model one from 96-99. It
should have 2 bosses with threaded holes to install belt keeper
device preventing timing belt from jumping in stickshifted Vanagon. It
does happen.
Leon

On 4/3/2012 7:34 PM, Matt wrote:



I currently have a EJ22, with 96K, on the stand and my plan is to
replace the timing belt, idlers, tensioner, water pump, thermostat,
rear main seal, front crank seal, cam shaft seal, valve cover gasket,
oil pump o ring. Also it was suggested to me to tighten the 6 screws
on the back side of the pump and to use a little lock tight on them.

Matt

--- In subaruvanagon@...
<mailto:subaruvanagon%40yahoogroups.com>, "Terry" <gannont15@...> wrote:

hey thre,

so i purchased a motor this weekend from a private party changin his
rs to a wrx. since the motor was sprayed and cleaned i cannot tell
where leaks may have been.

the sellers suggestion was the oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket
adn the seal around the plugs. do you agree?

the motor has 117K on it was was "running well". any other
suggestions on what to do outta the van while its on a stand. i was
think at least check the timing belt for wear. what's the suggested
timing belt mileage timeframe?

i'm am planning on an exhaust too so trying to keep the cost down
currently.

Also, i had a conversion done in denver a few years back and those
that installed the motor DID NOT use the reverse coolant manifold and
rather plummed the hoses in the original set up (air cone positioned
to its original VW spot). the car ran for about 20k at i believe
normal temp. i was planning on using scan tool or installing the VW
coolant sensor for a temp gauge. is that doable with out a reversent
manifold?

would the suggestions be to stick wiht the norm and spend a bit of
money on replumming the coolant hoses.

thanks
T


Re: TDI Starter Swap Report

 

It's huge PITA to install TDI starter in Syncro, requiring grinding
difflock actuator and a bit of starter itself just to get it in
I tried and gave up
My old stock starter works just fine with 2.5 Suby
Not all TDI starters are good, chinese made are crap
Leon

On 4/3/2012 6:10 PM, Brent Weide wrote:

Terry: My recommendation - as per my writeup, is that the tdi starter
is far superior to the stock vanagon starter. My vanagon starter was
fresh so my comparison is new against new.
I believe you'll appreciate the torque in the tdi starter, especially
when your engine is warm.
Brent

On Tue, Apr 3, 2012 at 4:36 PM, Sean Garrett <doit.outdoors@...
<mailto:doit.outdoors%40yahoo.com>> wrote:
I have a stock starter in my 1987 Syncro (2.5also), been working
fine for years (knock on wood)


Sean G


________________________________
From: Terry <gannont15@... <mailto:gannont15%40yahoo.com>>
To: subaruvanagon@...
<mailto:subaruvanagon%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 3, 2012 4:24 PM
Subject: [subaruvanagon] Re: TDI Starter Swap Report



i have a 1991 Westy Syncro with it's second 2.5L soon to be
installed. I was running into the same problem before the motor blew.

I was planning on putting in a NEW STOCK started form my van. I
recall reading somewhere it had enough crankin power.

Should I go with the TDI or stick with the stock guy. I do not
believe there is much of a difference in price.

Thanks

--- In subaruvanagon@...
<mailto:subaruvanagon%40yahoogroups.com>, Brent Weide
<brent.weide@...> wrote:

1991 VW Vanagon w/ Automatic Transmission
1999 Phase 1 DOHC EJ25.
Stock Vanagon Starter: (Bosch SR25X)

After my 99 DOHC EJ25 had been running for awhile and was well warmed
up i'd notice that more often than not, the stock starter would
struggle to turn the engine over. Gave the symptoms of a tired
battery and urged me to issue a silent plea in order to get her to
fire up. She always did but not without at least a little worry.
I did research on the following possible replacement options:
65-89 Porsche 911 Bosch SR68X (fits with modifications to mating flange
Gear Reduction Starter
TDI Starter (requires adaptor plate) SR0409X or SR0408X (fits
1998-2003 TDI Beetles. MK-4 Body Style 1999.5-2003 Golf and Jetta)

I ended up going with the TDI starter and adaptor flange. I chose the
SR0409X model starter as it has a bit more power. I found it out on
ebay for about $86 USD including shipping.
I purchased my adaptor flange from Westy Ventures
(). I paid $72 USD including
shipping.

Result:
The installation was a breeze. I did have to build a small pigtail
which allowed me to feed my ignition line and subaru ecu start signal
wires to the starter. I also had to modify my vanagon alternator wire
connector a bit to allow it to fit on the shorter stud on the new
starter. The rest was a simple process of bolting up the flange and
starter and testing.
The sound of the starter is very different than the stock vanagon
starter which takes some getting used to. It turns the engine much
faster and starts her up quicker. There is absolutely no strain with
a warm engine anymore. It turns the engine as fast as, or faster
than, the subaru starter when the engine was still in it's donor car.
I'd recommend this replacement to anyone who is experiencing symptoms
like i did and wants to improve starting performance.

All the best,
Brent



--
Brent Weide
Portland, Oregon
www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/







------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links


--
Brent Weide
Portland, Oregon
www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/


Re: 2002 rs impresa ej25 prep install quesitons

 

There is no oil pan gasket, a careful bead of gasket sealant is called
for there. There'll never be an easier time to replace the valve
cover gaskets (including the inner plug gaskets), front oil seals,
front main crank seal, rear main oil seal, and oil separator plate ( a
known cause of leaks if the plastic unit is still there from factory)
so you're best off to replace them while you have the engine out.
Might as well hit the timing belt and water pump while you're there.
And do a careful examination of the pullleys on which the t-belt runs
to ensure that their bearings are not worn. Replace if so.

Reversed manifold? It's truly a user choice. It serves to shorten
the coolant piping runs and unclutter the engine bay. Your
installation of a vw temp sensor in place of the subaru temp sensor
(the dash gauge sensor - not the ecu temp sensor) is the same with a
reversed manifold as it is with non-reversed.

all the best,
Brent
--
Brent Weide
Portland, Oregon
www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/


Re: 2002 rs impresa ej25 prep install quesitons

 

I currently have a EJ22, with 96K, on the stand and my plan is to replace the timing belt, idlers, tensioner, water pump, thermostat, rear main seal, front crank seal, cam shaft seal, valve cover gasket, oil pump o ring. Also it was suggested to me to tighten the 6 screws on the back side of the pump and to use a little lock tight on them.

Matt

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "Terry" <gannont15@...> wrote:

hey thre,

so i purchased a motor this weekend from a private party changin his rs to a wrx. since the motor was sprayed and cleaned i cannot tell where leaks may have been.

the sellers suggestion was the oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket adn the seal around the plugs. do you agree?

the motor has 117K on it was was "running well". any other suggestions on what to do outta the van while its on a stand. i was think at least check the timing belt for wear. what's the suggested timing belt mileage timeframe?

i'm am planning on an exhaust too so trying to keep the cost down currently.

Also, i had a conversion done in denver a few years back and those that installed the motor DID NOT use the reverse coolant manifold and rather plummed the hoses in the original set up (air cone positioned to its original VW spot). the car ran for about 20k at i believe normal temp. i was planning on using scan tool or installing the VW coolant sensor for a temp gauge. is that doable with out a reversent manifold?

would the suggestions be to stick wiht the norm and spend a bit of money on replumming the coolant hoses.

thanks
T


Re: TDI Starter Swap Report

Larry Hamm
 

He'll also appreciate it when it's very cold...

It's nice to get a good strong crank on these high compression engines when it's -25F outside! I've had mine for about five years now, and wouldn't trade for anything. The only minor installation drawback is having to use the long difflock actuator bracket, with a notch cut out, on a Syncro.

Larry H.

On 4/3/2012 6:10 PM, Brent Weide wrote:
Terry: My recommendation - as per my writeup, is that the tdi starter
is far superior to the stock vanagon starter. My vanagon starter was
fresh so my comparison is new against new.
I believe you'll appreciate the torque in the tdi starter, especially
when your engine is warm.
Brent


Re: ECU for ej25

 

What exactly are you asking for mate?
The ecu's that most folks use with their conversions are the ecu that
came with their engine. I'm not aware of anyone who has modified the
fuel or ignition curve mappings on a stock subaru ecu. If you're
wanting to change those mappings you'd likely need to go with an
aftermarket ecu.
If youre looking for a replacement ecu for your vans subaru engine,
you might need to do a lookup using the model/part number off of your
existing ecu.

all the best,
Brent




--
Brent Weide
Portland, Oregon
www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/