Yes, I have those instructions but I'm still confused. Am I correct in thinking the (cut at T14/12) yellow wire at B/21 is a ground with a signal from the ECU? I spliced a LED light for codes on the round connector in the engine bay box so I don't need to connect another LED...so it can safely just dangle or be grounded? Thx.
On Aug 10, 2023, at 7:45 AM, Duncan <whocanduncan1@...> wrote:
I am cleaning up the dash wiring harness after cleaning all the grounds. ? I have numerous print-outs from here, the Samba and other websites of suggestions of what to do with the yellow wire coming from instrument panel at T14/12...ground it somehow. The other end can be connected to the OXS light in pre '89 vanagons have an OXS light. ? What isn't clear is what to do with this end in 1988-1991 vanagons? This cut end runs to the red fuse panel connector in post '88 vans. ? It was just dangling free in Freedom. Is this okay or is there a better use? ? Duncan "Freedom van Go" 3.3L 1989 Westy
I am cleaning up the dash wiring harness after cleaning all the grounds. ? I have numerous print-outs from here, the Samba and other websites of suggestions of what to do with the yellow wire coming from instrument panel at T14/12...ground it somehow. The other end can be connected to the OXS light in pre '89 vanagons have an OXS light. ? What isn't clear is what to do with this end in 1988-1991 vanagons? This cut end runs to the red fuse panel connector in post '88 vans. ? It was just dangling free in Freedom. Is this okay or is there a better use? ? Duncan "Freedom van Go" 3.3L 1989 Westy
In this case, the additional fuse panel for battery distribution makes sense.? I was horrified to see how many devices vw connected directly to the battery wire.? Probably would be handy to install something like a 6-way power distribution fusebox?(with one power inlet driving all fuses).? Many have led indicators so that you can quickly identify which fuse has blown, and they're cheap.
Just ordered a 10 pack of fuse holders. I've unwrapped and traced the wires coming off the relay and have not seen anything alarming.?
Now I wonder if, instead of inline fuse holders, I should install a fuse box under the bench and rewire the various components through it back to the relay. That way I won't have to have inline fuses poking out of various spots of the harness...
It is now no more that toleration is spoken of as if it were the indulgence of one class of people that another enjoyed the exercise of their inherent natural rights, for, happily, the Government of the United States, which gives to bigotry no sanction, to persecution no assistance, requires only that they who live under its protection should demean themselves as good citizens in giving it on all occasions their effectual support.? George Washington, 1790
To confirm your finding you can insulate that part of the wire and see how it runs.?
If you care about not buying a new sensor, many universal aftermarket sensors come with wire connectors displace into the OEM plastic connector so it's very likely you can patch that issue and continue many more trouble free miles.
This looks like the issue. Bare wire at the o2 sensor was contacting the heat shield. I¡¯ve got the wiring harness put back together and installed. Will pick up a new sensor tomorrow and cross my fingers! Decided not to add the fuses to the main relay circuits. Wish I would have looked closer at the o2 sensors early on but didn¡¯t realize how it was all connected at the time.?
This looks like the issue. Bare wire at the o2 sensor was contacting the heat shield. I¡¯ve got the wiring harness put back together and installed. Will pick up a new sensor tomorrow and cross my fingers! Decided not to add the fuses to the main relay circuits. Wish I would have looked closer at the o2 sensors early on but didn¡¯t realize how it was all connected at the time.?
Don't forget wiring to the O2 sensors. Wiring diagram here:https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/2004-p0032-replaced-o2-sensor-with-new-oem-solved.813119/ Interesting YouTube video: Disconnect positive lead from battery and connect wire end of 12v test light to + on battery. Connect other end of test light to wire circuit in question. If light goes on you have a short to ground.
I agree with a dedicated fuse box, as opposed to fuse holders running nilly-willy everywhere.? I did it even for accessories in dash (cruise control, GPS, Radio), it really cleans things up and helps you keep your sanity.
On Friday, July 28, 2023 at 09:13:55 AM PDT, ANDREW <andrewvanis@...> wrote:
I would.? Don't see a reason not to.? Put it next to or attach to ECU bracket and then all is in same place.
Just ordered a 10 pack of fuse holders. I've unwrapped and traced the wires coming off the relay and have not seen anything alarming.?
Now I wonder if, instead of inline fuse holders, I should install a fuse box under the bench and rewire the various components through it back to the relay. That way I won't have to have inline fuses poking out of various spots of the harness...
Just ordered a 10 pack of fuse holders. I've unwrapped and traced the wires coming off the relay and have not seen anything alarming.?
Now I wonder if, instead of inline fuse holders, I should install a fuse box under the bench and rewire the various components through it back to the relay. That way I won't have to have inline fuses poking out of various spots of the harness...
Just ordered a 10 pack of fuse holders. I've unwrapped and traced the wires coming off the relay and have not seen anything alarming.?
Now I wonder if, instead of inline fuse holders, I should install a fuse box under the bench and rewire the various components through it back to the relay. That way I won't have to have inline fuses poking out of various spots of the harness...
Downstream fuse each of the ignition relay battery power suppy wires - they go to the ECU + other circuits to the engine for injectors,solenoids etc. to see if one blows?
I like the idea of downstream fuses to isolate faults. I did that with the fuel pump circuit - after I had replaced the pump and relay. Now the only place this circuit goes after the fuse is the OBD2 port, the ECU, and the main relay, which has been replaced as part of the troubleshooting/part swapping/stabbing in the dark process I'm going through.
I have been led to believe - and please correct me if I am wrong - that what is causing the fuse to blow is downstream of the fuse. This would eliminate the alternator (even though I replaced that also), the starter (I have checked the connections and everything is solid), and the battery as well as any circuits powered directly from the battery up under the dash.
I have pulled the harness out of the van. Now that it's done I sort of regret it, but my thinking was that I needed to follow that wire from the fuse to all it's ends. That is done and nothing was loose or bare or concerning. I guess I am now leaning toward finding a replacement ECU from another 28 yr old subaru.
Try to replicate the issue at home to diagnose. Get the engine hot, start moving the harness or car and see if the fuse blows. It might help narrow down source of short.?
?
?
Tried this last week and no luck with shaking the harness or banging on the ECU and OBD2 port.
Have you installed the new alternator? When the engine is hot, if you connect the two green test connectors and turn the key to ON and let everything cycle for a while,does the fuse blow? Check the starter and alt connections and the wiring from alt to black box post.
?
?
Alternator is in. Wish I would have tried your suggestion before pulling the harness! I'll do that when I put it all back in and see.
Sorry Sommay.? You crashed an existing thread to ask your question. I'll delete your post. Although I question the validity of your question (you'll get a thousand answers, all with the replying parties opinions) I would urge you to post the question in a new thread/topic. But here's some decent advice.....head out to any of the online sources that list vanagons for sale and do your own research.? Most will clearly indicate that they have converted to Subaru power. Best, Brent