Keyboard Shortcuts
ctrl + shift + ? :
Show all keyboard shortcuts
ctrl + g :
Navigate to a group
ctrl + shift + f :
Find
ctrl + / :
Quick actions
esc to dismiss
Likes
- SubaruVanagon
- Messages
Search
|
Re: How long is a conversion supposed to take?
Hi Larry and Avery,
Good for you! Do you know any other women like that? I'd like one. Thanks, Tom ________________________________ From: Larry and Avery Johnson <larrynavery@...> To: subaruvanagon@... Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2012 10:33 AM Subject: [subaruvanagon] Re: How long is a conversion supposed to take? ? 11 hours With everything laid out ready to go and a hydraulic hoist, my wife and I working like hell and got the job completed in 11 working hours (13 elapsed). We were motivated by the hoist being available just for a short time. The conversion was a 1991 Legacy EJ22 Subaru into a 1986 Westfalia Syncro Vanagon in 2006. And it still runs :-) Larry [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
|
Re: How long is a conversion supposed to take?
Larry and Avery Johnson
11 hours
With everything laid out ready to go and a hydraulic hoist, my wife and I working like hell and got the job completed in 11 working hours (13 elapsed). We were motivated by the hoist being available just for a short time. The conversion was a 1991 Legacy EJ22 Subaru into a 1986 Westfalia Syncro Vanagon in 2006. And it still runs :-) Larry |
|
Re: How long is a conversion supposed to take?
You should have a sitdown with your mechanic and explain your
concerns. There may be a valid reason that they can't progress like waiting for a special conversion part or something. Did you tell them you had timeline expectations or ask how long it would take before you handed over the van? I understand that not all van owners and/or mechanics are gifted in the art of conversation but it sure doesn't hurt to try. That said, i've a rough estimation of duration for a conversion out on my site. Head out to to have a look. That or browse to and go to Suby Engine-1 > Conversion and look in the list on that page for "Subaru Engine Conversion Timeline - October, 2004" I have figures there for someone on coffee and someone who's pretty laid back. I'm more laid back and if i come up against something like a drive by wire (this was before dbw adaptor kits were available) which requires special attention I take longer to make sure its done right. They are estimates and i'm sure that everyone has an opinion of their own but it will give you an idea of whats involved and how long many of the steps take. As many of the list members will remember, I reworked a very poor quality conversion last year which the retired female owner had paid in excess of 10,000 USD to have converted. It was shoddy work and the lack of craftsmanship and care resulted in the wiring harness rubbing against the firewall to the point where voltage was going straight to the frame and wires were fusing together. It became apparent to me in working on that van that not all mechanics have as much concern for your vehicle as you do. I am pretty scarey about who i allow to work on my van and feel that everyone should exercise good caution when giving your vehicle over to someone for a big job like conversion. Thats my little sermon. I hope that your conversion (and relationship with the mechanic) works out well in the end. If there's any questions about conversions or anything i can do to help out feel free to email me directly. all the best, brent -- Brent Weide Portland, Oregon www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/ |
|
Re: Camshaft end play?
Sorry for the lack of info. It's an EJ22 and yes the left cam is tight. The spec given are in inches which I also found in the Haynes.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Thanks, Matt --- In subaruvanagon@..., Scott Daniel - Turbovans <ScottDaniel@...> wrote:
|
|
Re: temperature gauge and coolant LED question
Scott Daniel - Turbovans
Hi David..
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
not the last 50 times I tried jumping with a plain wire. That just makes the LED keep flashing , in my experience. that would be handy ...just a paperclip. But 'no worky' that I have seen , going back for years., on vanagons. On 4/20/2012 10:59 PM, David Beierl wrote:
|
|
Re: temperature gauge and coolant LED question
At 01:45 AM 4/21/2012, Scott Daniel - Turbovans wrote:
I jumper the two level sensor connectors with a resistor ....valueScott, you don't even have to bother with the resistor, plain wire will do. You won't injure the circuit. Of course a quarter-watt resistor has nice thin leads that won't damage the connector. Any value from zero up to at least 100K should be fine. Trivia: tying the active sensor line to *any* constant voltage will keep it from triggering. Ground is the most convenient, of course, and the one used on the connector. Yours, David |
|
Re: Camshaft end play?
Scott Daniel - Turbovans
to the original poster ..
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
did you happen to notice if the left cam turns freely ? the timing belt is replaced not at TDC # 1 as would be normal in most engines on subaru engines. it's replaced with the engine positioned so there 'mostly' no valve pressure on the cam lobes and valves. you could say what engine, btw. I noticed on a DOHC 2.5 three cams I think were not pressing on valves, but one was. so maybe you have end play 'as normal' . it's not likely there is a problem really. how much is it ? on your spec ... .. wow ..huge range ..1.2 thousandths to 10.2 thousands .. ( you don't say if you are speaking in inches or mm in your spec though ) 10 thou is a mile . you measure it with a dial gauge as the other poster says.. or it's possible with feeling gauges too. ( See How to Keep Your VW Alive, for the Complete Idiot - the famous John Muir book..he has doing crank end play with feeler gauges in that book ) . check and see if the other cam is free to turn a little. My guess is it isn't, and that you don't have a real problem. It's not adjustable. the repair would be 'try another cam' ..or 'another cam and head.' scott www.turbovans.com On 4/20/2012 9:12 PM, Donny Lang wrote:
|
|
Re: temperature gauge and coolant LED question
Scott Daniel - Turbovans
hi.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I didn't get through you whole post ..being one long paragraph and hard to deal with in a steady stream, and .. what is your production date on yoru 85. there are 'two kinds' of 85's actually .. the ones that have left over 84 parts ( metal coolant main pipes, older style parking brake, stamped lower control arms, and 84 type throttle body swithes ) .. and it's possible your 85 has the dorky 83/84 coolant level sensor going off pegs the temp needle. 84's will do that ....makes you think it's really that hot, when it's not at all. if it is this, it's in the '43' relay ...mounted above the fuse box and hard to access. So don't get thrown off by this, if that is what is going on. When I have this issue and I just want to eliminate the level sensor from the picture temporarily .. I jumper the two level sensor connectors with a resistor ....value doesn't matter that much. 2K ohm say. That tricks the level sensor circuit into thinking the level sensor is happy.. and your temp guage will make sense.. if that is what is going on. all I ever do is feed it all the coolant it will take while running. After a while I shut it down, put the pressure bottle cap on. After it cools down and there's an air space...top that up. Do that 4 or so times...warm/cool cycles it and it will mostly be very bled. Don't get thrown off by exhaust gases getting into the coolant..like at a head or head gasket. If that is happening it looks like this.. you have determined it's not t-stat or water pump, you've bled it well.. and it still mysteriously actually overheats .. it will be like hot engine, stone cold radiator ..like the main pipes are blocked., but they are not of course.. It takes a while of running for this to show itself. i doubt if your temp guage maxes out in a short period ..that you are actualy overheating at the engine. use an IR Temp gun to find out what the real temps are at the engine. also .. best setup for temp guage is a VW temp sensor in the water manifold talking to the VW temp gauge in the dash. concgrats on your progress ! scott turbovans On 4/20/2012 7:51 PM, jared.kratz wrote:
|
|
Re: temperature gauge and coolant LED question
Hi Jared, here are a couple of things to consider. The connections on the coolant bottle must be good or the light will blink and the gauge will peg high in a few seconds, even though there is no overheating. Also, the coolant bottle has to be filled high enough or you will get the same scenario. With things working right, it will take a while to see the needle climb to normal, especially at idle. Even when you drive and put some load on it, figure on a mile or so before you see some needle movement. John
|
|
Re: Camshaft end play?
End play is measured with a dial indicator.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt" <mattsewalson@...> To: <subaruvanagon@...> Sent: Friday, April 20, 2012 10:05 PM Subject: [subaruvanagon] Camshaft end play? If you have a Haynes manual refer to 2A-13, illustration 9.9b |
|
Camshaft end play?
If you have a Haynes manual refer to 2A-13, illustration 9.9b
I replaced both the camshaft retainer seal which is an O-ring and the camshaft seal. After replacing I noticed the right cam has play from front to back and the left has none. I torqued the camshaft retainer to spec and installed the seal to the appropriate depth. Just not sure on this play from front to back, which I think would be described as end play. Is this play normal? In the Haynes it states the Thrust clearance (end play) is .0012 to .0102. How would I measure my end play? I think I have a general idea but not totally sure if I'm on the right track. Thanks, Matt |
|
temperature gauge and coolant LED question
I just spent the last four months on/off installing a 2004 2.5 in a 1985 Westy Vanagon A/T. I replaced the coolant pipes, rear trailing arms, rear bushings, brakes, seals, bearings, CV boots, joints, added front radiator bleed, so many things actually. I am using Burley method I saw sketched out in the files section. I bought the conversion from someone that had it running as a daily driver for just under a year. He had the same coolant flow setup too. Okay so I started it today. Woo Hoo, I read the posts about oil priming and took off my sensor and had to fill the galley a few times and then added the gas and spark and vrrrrrooooom. Right to life. Upon starting the oil light went right out, but the coolant LED was blinking and the temperature gauge immediately started rising pretty fast within a matter of 5-10 second after start up... and then pegged within 10 seconds, LED still blinking away. I shut it off. Knowing that the engine cant heat up that quick I knew it was probably a sensor? right. I should mention I am still rebuilding the rear susp at the moment and have it jacked way up in the air with the rear high enough to get the engine in still. When I filled the coolant thru the expansion tank I filled as much as I could, then bled at the radiator (lots of air) and at the rear in the line feeding the water pump. Again filled expansion but didn't ever let it run out through the whole process. I did it slow and took my time. I also should mention I turned on all my heater levers as to help fill the heater coils too. after a few rounds of that. I hooked a tube up to the expansion top and pressurized the system. I cranked it with no spark as to get the water pump pushing some fluid. Did the bleed fill process a few more times. Back bleeder valve then the front again. I finally got to where all coolant and no air bubbles. Pressurized it and left it over night. (pressurized meaning a little hand ball pump) in the morning still at the same level under pressure in the expansion tank. I fit a total of almost four gallons in. Okay Sorry for the Blah, Blah, Blah but thats a little back ground. After doing all of this I fired it up and saw that coolant gauge rise fast and then shut it down, like seconds fast. Just for safety I temp gunned the whole engine and nothing was remotely warm. I did that twice with the same fast climbing gauge result. Before the third time I cranked it over I made sure the temp sender were connected and checked the connections. All good. Okay So the third crank Vrrrooooommmm. real nice watched the LED blink when the ignition is on but once it started the light is out and the needle way down at nothing. So I just wanted to get Y'all felling on it. Is it working right now, or was it working right and now its bunk. I don't know which reading to go by and the first with the gauge climbing to hot within 5-10 sec or the ladder with a gauge that didint move. I fired it a few more times and left it run for about 20-30seconds a time and still that gauge is at low and not moving. How long would it take to over heat if there was a huge air pocket in there? Am I on the right track?
Thanks. for everything. |
|
Re: How long is a conversion supposed to take?
Scott Daniel - Turbovans
to the poster that mentioned 'two weeks' in and out.
here is the kind of work that sometimes gets done on major, big bux expensive conversion jobs .... that go out in two weeks.. these are real examples.. the customer is not even notified that one of his syncro fuel tank straps is 90 % rusted though. ( when the time to deal with it is when the engine and trans are out. You can replace the lower tank straps with engine and trans in, but the tank has to come out to do the upper trans straps...his was in bad shape. And the conversion shop was 'right there' for hours. Never even informed the customer, or gave him the opportunity to deal with it during the job. ) ( in a similar case.....big bucks job ....shop had the van 6 weeks, 3 of the four syncro gas tank straps were replaced with stainless ones, but one rusty one was left in. How does that happen ? ) ( same job ....not even getting 1/3rd throttle cable travel. When that is fixed...throttle lever hangs up with throttle half open. ) back on the 'two weeks ' thing.. Relays left bouncing around on the ends of their wires under the back seat. ( on an over $ 10K conversion job ). A generic heater hose size hose used on a subaru engine oil cooler..barely an inch from a header pipe.. when the correct part is the shaped genuine subaru hose. The generic hose kinked, then split , from heat mainly, being so close to the header. To do *really* neat good complete thorough, well sorted out engine conversion work takes a ridiculous amount of time. I have watched myself and a tech and wrench -savvy customer spend 80 full hours installing a subaru engine into his syncro van .. and that was after the engine had run in another van ..after the wiring harness and all the mounting and everything was figured out and done, . The 'conversion' part of the job was well done..yet we put four and a half 10 hour days into it ..the two of us. that's like 150 man hours .. just fine tuning the installation, never mind do the whole conversion. It was nigh perfect when we finished. On 4/20/2012 2:32 PM, Jean-Marc Spaggiari wrote:
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
|
Re: How long is a conversion supposed to take?
Scott Daniel - Turbovans
I would say two months should be plenty long enough to do a good job.
there are a lot of factors .. they could be behind on other projects.. taking in new projects that they'd rather not turn down ... there can be intra-shop dynamics at play that create delays .. on an on. I would be concerned actually about a conversion that goes in and out in two weeks. if I work full time 80 hours a week, that's not long enough for me to do a really good super careful nicely working conversion. or they are still sorting out .. but generally .. a shops energy can be drawn in so many directions .. it's usually not the only job going on .. it could be one of 10. On 4/20/2012 2:32 PM, Jean-Marc Spaggiari wrote:
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
|
Re: How long is a conversion supposed to take?
eric rowland
I just checked my invoice from last year and it took about 80 hours to update several engine parts like the timing chain, install the 3.0 engine, new ball joints, new brake lines, add new audi brakes in?front, rebuild the trans and a new axle + lots of smaller updates. It took about 4 weeks to complete once the parts were all there and delivered the day we agreed.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
--- On Fri, 4/20/12, Christopher <cashinhurst@...> wrote:
From: Christopher <cashinhurst@...> Subject: [subaruvanagon] Re: How long is a conversion supposed to take? To: subaruvanagon@... Date: Friday, April 20, 2012, 4:02 PM ? Hi, Once I had all of the parts, bellhousing, exhaust, muffler, coolant kit...etc. it only took me and a friend working only on weekends about 4 weekends to put a 92 EG33 in a 91 Vanagon. That includes aluminum oil pan, and having the transmission completely rebuilt with taller gears at an independent shop. And I was working out of my garage at home. Neither me nor my friend are mechanics, just automotive enthusiasts. I would say your "specialist" isn't really working on your van. There is NO WAY it takes 3 months to do this at a professional shop. Go get your van, bring it home and do it yourself. It is not that difficult. I even cut the wire harness myself, which only took about 15 hours. I used smallcar.com parts and it worked out great. Later, Chris --- In subaruvanagon@..., Jean-Marc Spaggiari <Jean-Marc@...> wrote:
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
|
Re: How long is a conversion supposed to take?
Christopher
Hi,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Once I had all of the parts, bellhousing, exhaust, muffler, coolant kit...etc. it only took me and a friend working only on weekends about 4 weekends to put a 92 EG33 in a 91 Vanagon. That includes aluminum oil pan, and having the transmission completely rebuilt with taller gears at an independent shop. And I was working out of my garage at home. Neither me nor my friend are mechanics, just automotive enthusiasts. I would say your "specialist" isn't really working on your van. There is NO WAY it takes 3 months to do this at a professional shop. Go get your van, bring it home and do it yourself. It is not that difficult. I even cut the wire harness myself, which only took about 15 hours. I used smallcar.com parts and it worked out great. Later, Chris --- In subaruvanagon@..., Jean-Marc Spaggiari <Jean-Marc@...> wrote:
|
|
How long is a conversion supposed to take?
Jean-Marc Spaggiari
Hi
I sent my car to a "specialist" Jan 3rd to do a subaru conversion. It's a place where they are used to do conversions but not used to so recent engines. Let's say you have some bad luck and some parts are late or wrong. Knowing that we are still talking about a specialist, how long is a reasonable delay to do this conversion? I know Small cars is taking about 2 weeks for a turbo conversion, so with some bad luck and investigations required, what can be the worst case scenario? One month? After that it's really abusing? Two months? Just want to have an idea. Thanks, JM |
|
For Sale: EJ22 Subaru Engine/Complete Wiring Harness
For Sale: One EJ22 Subaru engine removed from a 1990 Subaru Legacy.
The engine had 104,000 miles on it when I removed it and it ran perfectly. I also removed the entire wiring harness, anticipating converting my 1985 Vanagon to Subaru power. Everything that you need off the donor car is included. I have 4 kids now and I know I'll never get the time to complete the project. Engine, complete wiring harness, and Kennedy wiring diagram would be included in sale. I am located near Milwaukee, WI. Local pick up only, asking $300. |
|
Re: Idle Speed Question...1996 2.2 with 1992 ECU.
--- In subaruvanagon@..., "Don" <dkveuro@...> wrote:
And.........dropping into D or R from P or N idle system is doing a great job of keeping idle steady with very little rpm wander during shifting. No hesitation on throttle tip in r return to idle. Does not stall or stagger. I'm quiet please with the idle quality and this is just nit picking. thanks dk . |
|
Idle Speed Question...1996 2.2 with 1992 ECU.
I have this little jewel running sweet. 1992 EFI system running a 1996 2.2 engine with it's own sensors. Have made a VW idle switch do duty as the Idle Switch, missing on the 1996 throttle mounted sensor.
It's bolted to the throttle body, just like the VW was. So, now to the 'problem'...your notice, this is a 'problem', not an 'issue'....you know who you are ! ;) Anyway, the idle will take around 25 to 45 seconds to drop to a steady 700 rpm after throttle is closed and IS closes. Is this normal ? After installing the IS it will idle at 700rpm all the time once it's warm, but during 25 to 45 seconds after revving 2000 rpm and up, it hunts at 950 to 700 rpm before settling at 700rpm. Then it idles steady as a rock. Any observations ? |
Brent Weide
to navigate to use esc to dismiss