hi.
I didn't get through you whole post ..being one long paragraph and hard
to deal with in a steady stream,
and ..
what is your production date on yoru 85.
there are 'two kinds' of 85's actually ..
the ones that have left over 84 parts ( metal coolant main pipes, older
style parking brake, stamped lower control arms, and 84 type throttle
body swithes ) ..
and it's possible your 85 has the dorky 83/84 coolant level sensor going
off pegs the temp needle.
84's will do that ....makes you think it's really that hot, when it's
not at all.
if it is this, it's in the '43' relay ...mounted above the fuse box and
hard to access.
So don't get thrown off by this, if that is what is going on.
When I have this issue and I just want to eliminate the level sensor
from the picture temporarily ..
I jumper the two level sensor connectors with a resistor ....value
doesn't matter that much. 2K ohm say.
That tricks the level sensor circuit into thinking the level sensor is
happy..
and your temp guage will make sense..
if that is what is going on.
all I ever do is feed it all the coolant it will take while running.
After a while I shut it down, put the pressure bottle cap on.
After it cools down and there's an air space...top that up.
Do that 4 or so times...warm/cool cycles it and it will mostly be very bled.
Don't get thrown off by exhaust gases getting into the coolant..like at
a head or head gasket.
If that is happening it looks like this..
you have determined it's not t-stat or water pump, you've bled it well..
and it still mysteriously actually overheats ..
it will be like hot engine, stone cold radiator ..like the main pipes
are blocked., but they are not of course..
It takes a while of running for this to show itself.
i doubt if your temp guage maxes out in a short period ..that you are
actualy overheating at the engine.
use an IR Temp gun to find out what the real temps are at the engine.
also ..
best setup for temp guage is a VW temp sensor in the water manifold
talking to the VW temp gauge in the dash.
concgrats on your progress !
scott
turbovans
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On 4/20/2012 7:51 PM, jared.kratz wrote:
I just spent the last four months on/off installing a 2004 2.5 in a
1985 Westy Vanagon A/T. I replaced the coolant pipes, rear trailing
arms, rear bushings, brakes, seals, bearings, CV boots, joints, added
front radiator bleed, so many things actually. I am using Burley
method I saw sketched out in the files section. I bought the
conversion from someone that had it running as a daily driver for just
under a year. He had the same coolant flow setup too. Okay so I
started it today. Woo Hoo, I read the posts about oil priming and took
off my sensor and had to fill the galley a few times and then added
the gas and spark and vrrrrrooooom. Right to life. Upon starting the
oil light went right out, but the coolant LED was blinking and the
temperature gauge immediately started rising pretty fast within a
matter of 5-10 second after start up... and then pegged within 10
seconds, LED still blinking away. I shut it off. Knowing that the
engine cant heat up that quick I knew it was probably a sensor? right.
I should mention I am still rebuilding the rear susp at the moment and
have it jacked way up in the air with the rear high enough to get the
engine in still. When I filled the coolant thru the expansion tank I
filled as much as I could, then bled at the radiator (lots of air) and
at the rear in the line feeding the water pump. Again filled expansion
but didn't ever let it run out through the whole process. I did it
slow and took my time. I also should mention I turned on all my heater
levers as to help fill the heater coils too. after a few rounds of
that. I hooked a tube up to the expansion top and pressurized the
system. I cranked it with no spark as to get the water pump pushing
some fluid. Did the bleed fill process a few more times. Back bleeder
valve then the front again. I finally got to where all coolant and no
air bubbles. Pressurized it and left it over night. (pressurized
meaning a little hand ball pump) in the morning still at the same
level under pressure in the expansion tank. I fit a total of almost
four gallons in. Okay Sorry for the Blah, Blah, Blah but thats a
little back ground. After doing all of this I fired it up and saw that
coolant gauge rise fast and then shut it down, like seconds fast. Just
for safety I temp gunned the whole engine and nothing was remotely
warm. I did that twice with the same fast climbing gauge result.
Before the third time I cranked it over I made sure the temp sender
were connected and checked the connections. All good. Okay So the
third crank Vrrrooooommmm. real nice watched the LED blink when the
ignition is on but once it started the light is out and the needle way
down at nothing. So I just wanted to get Y'all felling on it. Is it
working right now, or was it working right and now its bunk. I don't
know which reading to go by and the first with the gauge climbing to
hot within 5-10 sec or the ladder with a gauge that didint move. I
fired it a few more times and left it run for about 20-30seconds a
time and still that gauge is at low and not moving. How long would it
take to over heat if there was a huge air pocket in there? Am I on the
right track?
Thanks. for everything.
