开云体育

i installed the speed sensor that attaches to speedo and so far so
good. at the same tyime i ran a lead from the tach out from computor
to the dash. my 84 vanagon gl has a tach. below the tach is a plug
with 12 connectors and they go to the plastic wiring sheet that covers
the back of instrument cluster.these are the colors of the wires going
into plug coming out of harness starting from left side of plug. 1blue
green 2 blue black 3 empty 4blue 5 blue purple6red blue 7 black 8
purpleblue 9 yellow red 10 purple 11 space 12blue 13 blue white
14green blue. can somebody tell me which wire i have to splice the
tach lead into to get my tach to work.any help much appreciated. the
speed sensor advice was spot on and if it runs good tomorrow i ll
consider the problem solved. thanks again

I think this OFF Topic Thread has gone long enough.

Tom
Moderator

Might be a good question for optima or anyone on thesamba or
vanagon.com. I'm sure that someone out there has lived through the
problem you're up against.

--
Brent Weide
Portland, Oregon
www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/

Oh wise ones, just completed a conversion on my syncro westy. The aux. battery was in the engine compartment, had to move it up under drivers seat. Just bought a new yellow top
Optima before the conversion. It looks like the Optima will fit if I saw off the top posts (still has size posts) any reason why this wouldn't work ?
Michael Hiel
Gardenwwerks
Sent from my iPad

Thanks for your help. I put a 200k ohm resistor inline as suggested by Mao at SmallCar. It's too much resistance. I can only see the light when it is night. I will try the 800 ohm resistor you are suggesting and see how it turns out.

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "larryalofs" <alofs@...> wrote:

I am not very familiar with the SVX, but I can tell you my approach putting an EJ22 into my '91.
The ECU turns the CEL on by supplying a ground. This means that the LED will be connected to +12v (thru a resistor)all the time. To make the connection to the ECU I used the wire that had been part of the high speed oil pressure warning system on the WBX. I avoided the big connector by cutting that wire nearby and using an insulated spade connector to connect to the wire that I added leading to the LED. I found +12v somewhere on the instrument cluster and used a resistor of about 800 ohms if I recall correctly, bringing that supply to the yellow LED that I glued into the unused OX position. I used a sharp probe to scratch thru the black coating nearby, inscribing the letters: ENG so it would be illuminated like the other symbols nearby.
Good luck. Remember that polarity matters on an LED.

Larry A.


--- In subaruvanagon@..., "Christopher" <cashinhurst@> wrote:

I was wondering about installing an LED in the position where an OXS light used to go in pre 87 Vans for the Check Engine Light for my 91 Van with SVX motor. I followed the track back and it dead ends. Looks like a diode/resistor/something is missing to make the connection for the ground signal to get to the light from the 14 pin connector. Can anyone help?

Thanks

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

I am not very familiar with the SVX, but I can tell you my approach putting an EJ22 into my '91.
The ECU turns the CEL on by supplying a ground. This means that the LED will be connected to +12v (thru a resistor)all the time. To make the connection to the ECU I used the wire that had been part of the high speed oil pressure warning system on the WBX. I avoided the big connector by cutting that wire nearby and using an insulated spade connector to connect to the wire that I added leading to the LED. I found +12v somewhere on the instrument cluster and used a resistor of about 800 ohms if I recall correctly, bringing that supply to the yellow LED that I glued into the unused OX position. I used a sharp probe to scratch thru the black coating nearby, inscribing the letters: ENG so it would be illuminated like the other symbols nearby.
Good luck. Remember that polarity matters on an LED.

Larry A.


--- In subaruvanagon@..., "Christopher" <cashinhurst@> wrote:

I was wondering about installing an LED in the position where an OXS light used to go in pre 87 Vans for the Check Engine Light for my 91 Van with SVX motor. I followed the track back and it dead ends. Looks like a diode/resistor/something is missing to make the connection for the ground signal to get to the light from the 14 pin connector. Can anyone help?

Thanks

1991 VW Vanagon w/ Automatic Transmission
1999 Phase 1 DOHC EJ25.
Stock Vanagon Starter: (Bosch SR25X)

After my 99 DOHC EJ25 had been running for awhile and was well warmed
up i'd notice that more often than not, the stock starter would
struggle to turn the engine over. Gave the symptoms of a tired
battery and urged me to issue a silent plea in order to get her to
fire up. She always did but not without at least a little worry.
I did research on the following possible replacement options:
65-89 Porsche 911 Bosch SR68X (fits with modifications to mating flange
Gear Reduction Starter
TDI Starter (requires adaptor plate) SR0409X or SR0408X (fits
1998-2003 TDI Beetles. MK-4 Body Style 1999.5-2003 Golf and Jetta)

I ended up going with the TDI starter and adaptor flange. I chose the
SR0409X model starter as it has a bit more power. I found it out on
ebay for about $86 USD including shipping.
I purchased my adaptor flange from Westy Ventures
(). I paid $72 USD including
shipping.

Result:
The installation was a breeze. I did have to build a small pigtail
which allowed me to feed my ignition line and subaru ecu start signal
wires to the starter. I also had to modify my vanagon alternator wire
connector a bit to allow it to fit on the shorter stud on the new
starter. The rest was a simple process of bolting up the flange and
starter and testing.
The sound of the starter is very different than the stock vanagon
starter which takes some getting used to. It turns the engine much
faster and starts her up quicker. There is absolutely no strain with
a warm engine anymore. It turns the engine as fast as, or faster
than, the subaru starter when the engine was still in it's donor car.
I'd recommend this replacement to anyone who is experiencing symptoms
like i did and wants to improve starting performance.

All the best,
Brent



--
Brent Weide
Portland, Oregon
www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/

Hanniboon:
You are talking about the oil cooler that spins into the spot between
the oil filter and engine case, yes?
Not too many of the USDM engines have the coolers that I've worked
with. I installed a Forester (2004) that had the oil cooler which I
removed because I couldn't easily find a way to plumb the coolant
lines without interfering with the smallcar engine carrier.
The oil coolers for impreza 2.5's that i've seen have been around 77mm
in diameter by 42mm in depth. Not sure about svx's or ej22's.
all the best,
Brent
--
Brent Weide
Portland, Oregon
www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/

It's huge PITA to install TDI starter in Syncro, requiring grinding
difflock actuator and a bit of starter itself just to get it in
I tried and gave up
My old stock starter works just fine with 2.5 Suby
Not all TDI starters are good, chinese made are crap
Leon

On 4/3/2012 6:10 PM, Brent Weide wrote:

Terry: My recommendation - as per my writeup, is that the tdi starter
is far superior to the stock vanagon starter. My vanagon starter was
fresh so my comparison is new against new.
I believe you'll appreciate the torque in the tdi starter, especially
when your engine is warm.
Brent

On Tue, Apr 3, 2012 at 4:36 PM, Sean Garrett <doit.outdoors@...
<mailto:doit.outdoors%40yahoo.com>> wrote:

I have a stock starter in my 1987 Syncro (2.5also), been working

fine for years (knock on wood)

Sean G


________________________________
From: Terry <gannont15@... <mailto:gannont15%40yahoo.com>>
To: subaruvanagon@...

<mailto:subaruvanagon%40yahoogroups.com>

Sent: Tuesday, April 3, 2012 4:24 PM
Subject: [subaruvanagon] Re: TDI Starter Swap Report



i have a 1991 Westy Syncro with it's second 2.5L soon to be

installed. I was running into the same problem before the motor blew.

I was planning on putting in a NEW STOCK started form my van. I

recall reading somewhere it had enough crankin power.

Should I go with the TDI or stick with the stock guy. I do not

believe there is much of a difference in price.

Thanks

--- In subaruvanagon@...

<mailto:subaruvanagon%40yahoogroups.com>, Brent Weide
<brent.weide@> wrote:

1991 VW Vanagon w/ Automatic Transmission
1999 Phase 1 DOHC EJ25.
Stock Vanagon Starter: (Bosch SR25X)

After my 99 DOHC EJ25 had been running for awhile and was well warmed
up i'd notice that more often than not, the stock starter would
struggle to turn the engine over. Gave the symptoms of a tired
battery and urged me to issue a silent plea in order to get her to
fire up. She always did but not without at least a little worry.
I did research on the following possible replacement options:
65-89 Porsche 911 Bosch SR68X (fits with modifications to mating flange
Gear Reduction Starter
TDI Starter (requires adaptor plate) SR0409X or SR0408X (fits
1998-2003 TDI Beetles. MK-4 Body Style 1999.5-2003 Golf and Jetta)

I ended up going with the TDI starter and adaptor flange. I chose the
SR0409X model starter as it has a bit more power. I found it out on
ebay for about $86 USD including shipping.
I purchased my adaptor flange from Westy Ventures
(). I paid $72 USD including
shipping.

Result:
The installation was a breeze. I did have to build a small pigtail
which allowed me to feed my ignition line and subaru ecu start signal
wires to the starter. I also had to modify my vanagon alternator wire
connector a bit to allow it to fit on the shorter stud on the new
starter. The rest was a simple process of bolting up the flange and
starter and testing.
The sound of the starter is very different than the stock vanagon
starter which takes some getting used to. It turns the engine much
faster and starts her up quicker. There is absolutely no strain with
a warm engine anymore. It turns the engine as fast as, or faster
than, the subaru starter when the engine was still in it's donor car.
I'd recommend this replacement to anyone who is experiencing symptoms
like i did and wants to improve starting performance.

All the best,
Brent



--
Brent Weide
Portland, Oregon
www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

--
Brent Weide
Portland, Oregon
www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I currently have a EJ22, with 96K, on the stand and my plan is to
replace the timing belt, idlers, tensioner, water pump, thermostat,
rear main seal, front crank seal, cam shaft seal, valve cover gasket,
oil pump o ring. Also it was suggested to me to tighten the 6 screws
on the back side of the pump and to use a little lock tight on them.

Matt

--- In subaruvanagon@...
<mailto:subaruvanagon%40yahoogroups.com>, "Terry" <gannont15@...> wrote:

hey thre,

so i purchased a motor this weekend from a private party changin his

rs to a wrx. since the motor was sprayed and cleaned i cannot tell
where leaks may have been.

the sellers suggestion was the oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket

adn the seal around the plugs. do you agree?

the motor has 117K on it was was "running well". any other

suggestions on what to do outta the van while its on a stand. i was
think at least check the timing belt for wear. what's the suggested
timing belt mileage timeframe?

i'm am planning on an exhaust too so trying to keep the cost down

currently.

Also, i had a conversion done in denver a few years back and those

that installed the motor DID NOT use the reverse coolant manifold and
rather plummed the hoses in the original set up (air cone positioned
to its original VW spot). the car ran for about 20k at i believe
normal temp. i was planning on using scan tool or installing the VW
coolant sensor for a temp gauge. is that doable with out a reversent
manifold?

would the suggestions be to stick wiht the norm and spend a bit of

money on replumming the coolant hoses.

thanks
T