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Re: engine dies after rapid decelleration

 

I experience very similar symptoms with a 92 EJ22. After ensuring
that the IAC was clean and functioning correctly I installed a VSS
which solved the problem for good. I'd suggest you try the same.

Brent


--
Brent Weide
Portland, Oregon
www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/


Re: How long is a conversion supposed to take?

 

<<THIS MESSAGE MARKS THE END OF THIS THREAD>>

OK. Heads up.
This thread is a disappointing result of several failures in proper handling of a conversion timeline concern and related communication. And we would like to share some guidance so that members in the future can avoid recurrence.

If you have an issue with your mechanic or parts vendor or customer, run - don't walk, to the phone or to their shop where you can communicate to them your concerns. This group, it's moderators and members, are not the better business bureau and do not represent the ability to help you with a lack of honest communication.

Do not bring your gripes about vendors or customers to this message board. We have found that it is too difficult for folks to desseminate between helpful feedback and slander and do not wish to be in the position of playing censor or referee. Nor do we have any desire to listen to your complaints or taunts about our lack of interest in these senseless postings.

If you notice that a member is posting information that is not helpful to the group as a whole do not perpetuate the thread by adding your two cents. Just stop. If you feel compelled to continue communication on the matter do so directly with the related member.

Tom and I (mostly Tom) have been very patient and forgiving as related to offing members who fail to understand the intent of this message forum. That will change. This forum is a small representation of a sharing community which has much to offer folks in need. We will not condone behavior which counters our intent. There are plenty of message boards on the internet where members can jeer and flame and act like idiots at the expense of others. This is not one of them. If you feel that these rules are too stringent feel free to exercise the un-enroll feature. We'll miss you but likely not as much as you think we should.

And finally, if you are supporting the group by adhering to the guidelines set forth by the founder, thank you.

All the best,
Brent


engine dies after rapid decelleration

paul_reif
 

My 87 Westy with 2.2 NA engine performs flawlessly including IAC function but periodicaly if I decellerate rapidly as I would exiting a freeway ramp and comming to a stop sign,it dies. There is no sign of fuel starvation on acceleration, fuel pump and filter are about 15,000
miles old. I do have vss code 33 as well as 51,52. Idle does briefly drop down below 650 on short stops. Recently ran carb cleaner through IAC. Cold idle is 1000, warm idle 650rpm . Any suggestions


Loss Power, CEL O2 Code, and smog test.

 

Hi,

Need Help with an O2 sensor code (91 EJ22 in a 85 Vanagon) #32 and some rough running.
I have about 25K miles, 5 years, on my conversion, but it's smog time again here in California and, wouldn't 'cha know it, it decides to start throwing codes all over the place. Can't show up with a CEL a the smog test. It had been sitting mostly unused for the past year (light use). Anyway, here's the recent problems:

1)Code #15 (#2 Injector)- verified open loop on multimeter, should be 11.5 Ohms...replaced, code gone, thank you ECU.

2)Code #32 (O2 Sensor)- Replaced O2 sensor, code eventually showed back up. Scan tool shows Voltage not varying from .2 to .8 in a nice sine pattern. This was true for the old and new O2 sensor. It appears to peg near .1 volts for long time, but I've seem .8 too so it does change when revving sometimes. Rich, lean, ? either way don't' know what I can do about it.

3)Rough idle - Probably a symptom of problem #2. Tried new spark plug, spark plug wires, swapping coil, new Temp sensor (for ECU), different ECU, checked EGR Valve, sea-foaming the IAC....

The van has a loss of power when driving, but drives. When revving in the drive way, it sounds like it backfires a bit, kind of like a downshifting race car, only cool if you're a race car and not going for a smog test. Something is not right with the way the exhaust sounds when driving a full throttle. Sounds like a weaker whooshing noise that that growl I know and love. I've concentrated my efforts on the top end and sensors. I think the O2 is a red herring but don't know what else to do....mouse in the tailpipe..? I'm not sure if it really ran better after replacing the injector.

Does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks in advance.
Andy Malec
Ventura, CA


Re: How long is a conversion supposed to take?

 

It's VERY sad to a point that I may stop doing engine conversion after the one I have to do (7).

No one attacked me like that in 9 years of operation.

Now, I may just go back to stock engine (just did one last week) as they are similar in profit and way less hassle.

I just receive a p-mail from SOMEONE here and he did mess my day big time.

I'm pissed.

I'm out of here for a wile.

--- In subaruvanagon@..., Denis Cyr <nazaircyr@...> wrote:

How sad this story Ben, you did my Subaru conversion last year, I'm completely satisfied, then you have answered all my questions often connected to the VW side. I do not know what's happened in this case but everyone knows that you're a pro.

Denis, QC

----- Original Message -----
From: poussinnoir
To: subaruvanagon@...
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 8:09 PM
Subject: [subaruvanagon] Re: How long is a conversion supposed to take?



I'm the pathetic shop.
I'm the pathetic guy who spent countless hours helping people on many forum. Yea, the pathetic guy who as over 40,000$ picture on his website. The same guy who show a web page progress for each single customer since 5 years.

Sometime life his real hard, money, energy, part availability wise.

Now anyone did a 08 XT turbo engine with can-bus and anti theft system? Maybe he could help me.

I never had one single problem with any customers in 9 years. That's a fist... and I learn about it here. Super nice.

Any one who as a problem with me running my shop can contact me in private.

I can do a 2.5L (NON turbo) conversion in 7 days easy. I did 58 so far.

Ben


--- In subaruvanagon@..., "Neil" <furrylittleotter@> wrote:
>
> Jean-Marc, I am sorry to hear you are having such a terrible experience. What has happened, quite obviously is you have become trapped by a pathetic shop, that at the very least, should not be doing conversions. At 5 months, I believe you should be contacting a lawyer to send an ugly letter, and reveal the name of the shop to this group so no one else makes the mistakes of paying their mortgage and being put on the back burner, while they busy themselves either learning how to do an install or working on other people's cars to pay the mortgage for this month. Personally, myself or a representative would be on their phone or doorstep a minimum of once a day demanding results. This is ridiculous. A blind child could've completed the conversion in less than 5 months.
>
> Neil
>




Aucun virus trouv¨¦ dans ce message.
Analyse effectu¨¦e par AVG - www.avg.fr
Version: 2012.0.1913 / Base de donn¨¦es virale: 2411/4967 - Date: 29/04/2012




Re: SmallCar oil pan and dipstick - oil "burp"

 

And I'm going to double check that I have the correct PCV valve!

1990-2003 is #045-0031 and 2004 on is #045-0351. They look
quite different.

Richard

--- In subaruvanagon@..., Luke Bakken <luke@...> wrote:


I'm going to install a
Krank Vent and vacuum regulator ¨¤ la OlRivrRat and will report back.


Re: registering ej25 conversion in CA

 

Due to the smog rules regulations and general price gouging associated with smog testing and repairs related to complying with these regulations,not to mention the increasing license renewal fees, I registered/transferred my '84 Westy to South Dakota registration and licensing, three years ago. Needless to say, this saves me alot a grief and license renewal is online and under $50/yr., and SD is totally cool with out of state vehicles and registration stating CA address. If interested see South Dakota DMV.

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "mshilge" <mshilge@...> wrote:

Hi all,
Wondering what options I have to register my conversion in CA?

I recall that the ej22 has been certified, any way to be legal with an ej25?

Thanks,
Mark
89 westy syncro ej25


Re: How long is a conversion supposed to take?

 

Funny how the greatest critics are those who've never bloodied a knuckle
repairing a machine.


Re: How long is a conversion supposed to take?

Denis Cyr
 

How sad this story Ben, you did my Subaru conversion last year, I'm completely satisfied, then you have answered all my questions often connected to the VW side. I do not know what's happened in this case but everyone knows that you're a pro.

Denis, QC

----- Original Message -----
From: poussinnoir
To: subaruvanagon@...
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 8:09 PM
Subject: [subaruvanagon] Re: How long is a conversion supposed to take?



I'm the pathetic shop.
I'm the pathetic guy who spent countless hours helping people on many forum. Yea, the pathetic guy who as over 40,000$ picture on his website. The same guy who show a web page progress for each single customer since 5 years.

Sometime life his real hard, money, energy, part availability wise.

Now anyone did a 08 XT turbo engine with can-bus and anti theft system? Maybe he could help me.

I never had one single problem with any customers in 9 years. That's a fist... and I learn about it here. Super nice.

Any one who as a problem with me running my shop can contact me in private.

I can do a 2.5L (NON turbo) conversion in 7 days easy. I did 58 so far.

Ben


--- In subaruvanagon@..., "Neil" <furrylittleotter@...> wrote:
>
> Jean-Marc, I am sorry to hear you are having such a terrible experience. What has happened, quite obviously is you have become trapped by a pathetic shop, that at the very least, should not be doing conversions. At 5 months, I believe you should be contacting a lawyer to send an ugly letter, and reveal the name of the shop to this group so no one else makes the mistakes of paying their mortgage and being put on the back burner, while they busy themselves either learning how to do an install or working on other people's cars to pay the mortgage for this month. Personally, myself or a representative would be on their phone or doorstep a minimum of once a day demanding results. This is ridiculous. A blind child could've completed the conversion in less than 5 months.
>
> Neil
>




Aucun virus trouv¨¦ dans ce message.
Analyse effectu¨¦e par AVG - www.avg.fr
Version: 2012.0.1913 / Base de donn¨¦es virale: 2411/4967 - Date: 29/04/2012


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: pros and cons of mounting igniter under westy seat?

Scott Daniel - Turbovans
 

I think so,
for cooling of the igniter.
one of my conversion sayings is 'Do what the manufacturers do.'

Both VW and Subaru put the igniter in the engine compartment.
Makes sense to me.

stated another way is 'don't make shit up.'
Some of the stuff I see on engine conversions is just silly .

( the latest really fun one is a muffler mounted a couple of inches
right below an intercooler ...sure never going to see that on any car
that's engineered to last and work well by an auto manufacturer. )

scott
www.turbovans.com

On 4/29/2012 2:29 PM, dietervan10 wrote:

I am modifying a 1992 2.2 subbie harness for an 87 westy and I am
using Leon Korkwood's mounting method for the igniter, relays, and ECU
(i.e., under the seat).

Having said that, I have seen several conversions where the igniter is
mounted in the engine bay. Should I move the igniter to the engine
bay, and if so, why?

Thanks for the help.

Paul


Re: SmallCar oil pan and dipstick - oil "burp"

Luke Bakken
 

On Sun, Apr 29, 2012 at 1:49 PM, rjones1942 <jones@...> wrote:
Luke:
I'll add recent experiences that are similar to yours, and
besides, message 62373 was my post.
(snip excellent writeup)

Richard - thanks for all the great information. I'm going to install a
Krank Vent and vacuum regulator ¨¤ la OlRivrRat and will report back.
He's used clear tubing throughout his venting setup to be able to
detect oil as well, and I'm planning on doing the same.

I like my SC aluminum pan but maybe this is an unavoidable consequence
of the low profile design?


Re: How long is a conversion supposed to take?

 

I'm the pathetic shop.
I'm the pathetic guy who spent countless hours helping people on many forum. Yea, the pathetic guy who as over 40,000$ picture on his website. The same guy who show a web page progress for each single customer since 5 years.

Sometime life his real hard, money, energy, part availability wise.

Now anyone did a 08 XT turbo engine with can-bus and anti theft system? Maybe he could help me.

I never had one single problem with any customers in 9 years. That's a fist... and I learn about it here. Super nice.

Any one who as a problem with me running my shop can contact me in private.

I can do a 2.5L (NON turbo) conversion in 7 days easy. I did 58 so far.

Ben

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "Neil" <furrylittleotter@...> wrote:

Jean-Marc, I am sorry to hear you are having such a terrible experience. What has happened, quite obviously is you have become trapped by a pathetic shop, that at the very least, should not be doing conversions. At 5 months, I believe you should be contacting a lawyer to send an ugly letter, and reveal the name of the shop to this group so no one else makes the mistakes of paying their mortgage and being put on the back burner, while they busy themselves either learning how to do an install or working on other people's cars to pay the mortgage for this month. Personally, myself or a representative would be on their phone or doorstep a minimum of once a day demanding results. This is ridiculous. A blind child could've completed the conversion in less than 5 months.

Neil


Re: SmallCar oil pan and dipstick - oil "burp"

 

Richard, Hello. I think I understand the way you explained how you put in the seperator from Jegs but anyway you can post a picture? Thanks GreggK

To: subaruvanagon@...
From: jones@...
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 20:49:21 +0000
Subject: [subaruvanagon] Re: SmallCar oil pan and dipstick - oil "burp"

Luke:
I'll add recent experiences that are similar to yours, and
besides, message 62373 was my post.

After I set up my PCV hoses to match the '00 diagram (3 way)

I reduced my oil burning but did not eliminate it. So I
experimented. I put a section of clear vinyl hose with a
loop in the PCV setup and saw that it collected some oil
in the bottom of the loop. I thought about a Krank Vent,
but didn't want to spend that much, so I bought a JEGS:

I put this in a hose from the case vent to the PCV valve. That
is, I closed off the Y that connected to the air intake.
It collected oil, especially after Interstate speed driving.
But the vinyl hoses showed oil on both sides--it wasn't
collecting all the oil. My mechanic was convinced the oil
burning is connected to the PCV setup, so he took the hose
from the case and ran it to a little filter. He blocked
the hose to the PCV valve and blocked the hose to the air
intake. So case vented to the atmosphere with a little
paper filter and PCV valve blocked.

I headed out from Boulder to the Mojave. I was overfilled
with oil--maybe about 5.5 qts. On the first real grade
on I-25, I shifted down to third, held it at about 5500 rpm
and suddenly felt it bog down. I was putting out a big
cloud of oil smoke. I nursed it until the smoke stopped
and everything checked OK. It was similar to an event early
in the conversion days when the PCV valve was stopped up.

The same thing happened about 5-6 more times on the trip.
However, as my oil level decreased, the magnitude of the smoke
and the "bogging down" decreased. It always happed in 3rd,
going up a hill at 5500 rpm. If I took it easy and stayed
below 5000 rpm, it didn't happen. Coming home, I ran a low
oil level--maybe 3.5 qts--and it didn't happen. I am convinced
it is connected to (1) oil level, (2) high rpms and (3) steep
grade.

The only way oil could get to my intake was through the valve
cover vent lines. At home, I pulled the air intake system to
look. Where the plastic intake connected to the intake manifold
part of the engine, there was definitely oil on the inside of
the plastic. Looking at the hoses from the valve covers was
inconclusive. There was some oil on the inside of my air filter
that could have only come from burping back out of the intake
hose. The paper filter on the end of the hose from the case
showed no evidence of any oil--of anything being pushed out
from the case. So the vacuum level in the air intake where
the vent cover hoses connect must be involved.

Why did the oil get there? Mark Drillock and I talked it over
while in the Mojave and he suggested that the steepness of
the hill and the Small Car pan design and the high rpms and
the high oil level were causing the crank to foam up the oil
and then push the foam up the vent hoses into the intake.

When the PCV hoses are set up as designed--the three-way hose
setup--the PCV valve probably sucks the foam away in a steady
manner so there is no "event" where the engine bogs down and
a lot of oil smoke comes out.

I have now set the PCV hoses up as designed--one from the case
to the Y, one from the air intake to the Y and one from the
Y to the PCV valve. I put the JEGS air oil separator between
the Y and the PCV valve. I'm heading to Moab soon and will
see how much oil it traps. [Why Subaru changed to a straight
hose from the PCV on the case to the intake manifold with no
Y to the air intake, I don't understand. The PCV valve at
the case must act differently than the PCV at the manifold.
They are different part numbers, I think.] I intend to run
the oil level low--3.5 qts or so. I'll report in a few weeks.

I'll add that my compression is 180 and leak-down 5% in all
cylinders. But my oil still turns very black pretty fast.
Of course the simple thing would be to tear down the engine
and find out what it looks like inside--oil rings, valve
seals, etc. But oil is very cheap compared to labor and
besides I'd rather go camping.

Any comments, reactions, analysis of all this would be very
welcome. Meanwhile, you can enjoy pictures of the Mojave trip
at :-)

Richard


--- In subaruvanagon@..., "lukerobertbakken" <luke@...> wrote:

Hey everyone,

You may remember in the past threads about "Oil burning" and white smoke on this forum:



I posted that I see the same behavior in my van ('89 syncro westy, EJ25 with SC aluminum pan):




OlRivrRat has posted that he has had success with the Krank Vent:



I noticed some interesting behavior this Friday while driving home across WA state. I got home and noticed that some oil had burped out of the smallcar tubular dipstick and down the back of my bumper. I have no idea how much oil escaped but I'll make note how much oil drains when I change it next. I have since plugged the dipstick.

One thing I did not follow up on in my message #61050 is that several weeks after that happened I decided to change my air filter. When I opened up the airbox (stock one from a Forester) it had a significant amount of oil in it. I assume that the oil was blown into the air box during the incident that caused the oil burning and smoke that I described in the same post.

I'm beginning to think that a device like a Krank Vent will be necessary on my van to keep these issues from happening as well as get rid of some oil consumption I notice during the course of driving the van.

Since my van has vent lines coming from both valve covers to either side of the air box, how would I pipe in a Krank Vent? I assume I will tee them together, run the output side of the vent to the air box, and plug the other side of the airbox as well.

Any ideas or input is welcome!
Thanks -
Luke



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



Re: pros and cons of mounting igniter under westy seat?

 

Ive got one of Leons ECU set ups. My igniter is in the engine bay. I havent been aware of any problems but what would be going on if there was an issue with the location? Have you changed youe set up Leon? If so why? Thanks GreggK

To: subaruvanagon@...
From: becida@...
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 14:46:43 -0700
Subject: Re: [subaruvanagon] pros and cons of mounting igniter under westy seat?

When I did my 87 van I put it under the seat and did check for
excessive heat and never saw any problems. On my 84 Westy I drilled a
hole and put it in that dead space under the rear of the closet. No problems.
These were both like Leon shows, everything on a single board.

Rob
becida@...


At 4/29/2012 02:29 PM,dietervan10 wrote:
I am modifying a 1992 2.2 subbie harness for an 87 westy and I am
using Leon Korkwood's mounting method for the igniter, relays, and
ECU (i.e., under the seat).

Having said that, I have seen several conversions where the igniter
is mounted in the engine bay. Should I move the igniter to the
engine bay, and if so, why?

Thanks for the help.

Paul


------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



Re: pros and cons of mounting igniter under westy seat?

John Charlton
 

there is another alternative. Just under the driver's side rear cabinet in the westy there is a small cavity - When Tom Shiels did the harness for my 2.5 suby, he suggested that this was a good location and it is. The Ecu etc is up out of the engine bay and away from all of the crud etc - also one has access to the ecu, CEL etc while the engine cover is off and you're working on it. It would drive me crazy doing a back and forth from inside to back while working on sometheng. Its a good location, it means making a (I think) about 2 1/2 "? hole and using the large Subaru grommet that was harvested with the engine et al.


________________________________
From: dietervan10 <dietervan10@...>
To: subaruvanagon@...
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 5:29 PM
Subject: [subaruvanagon] pros and cons of mounting igniter under westy seat?


?
I am modifying a 1992 2.2 subbie harness for an 87 westy and I am using Leon Korkwood's mounting method for the igniter, relays, and ECU (i.e., under the seat).

Having said that, I have seen several conversions where the igniter is mounted in the engine bay. Should I move the igniter to the engine bay, and if so, why?

Thanks for the help.

Paul




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: pros and cons of mounting igniter under westy seat?

Rob
 

When I did my 87 van I put it under the seat and did check for excessive heat and never saw any problems. On my 84 Westy I drilled a hole and put it in that dead space under the rear of the closet. No problems.
These were both like Leon shows, everything on a single board.

Rob
becida@...

At 4/29/2012 02:29 PM,dietervan10 wrote:
I am modifying a 1992 2.2 subbie harness for an 87 westy and I am using Leon Korkwood's mounting method for the igniter, relays, and ECU (i.e., under the seat).

Having said that, I have seen several conversions where the igniter is mounted in the engine bay. Should I move the igniter to the engine bay, and if so, why?

Thanks for the help.

Paul


pros and cons of mounting igniter under westy seat?

 

I am modifying a 1992 2.2 subbie harness for an 87 westy and I am using Leon Korkwood's mounting method for the igniter, relays, and ECU (i.e., under the seat).

Having said that, I have seen several conversions where the igniter is mounted in the engine bay. Should I move the igniter to the engine bay, and if so, why?

Thanks for the help.

Paul


Re: SmallCar oil pan and dipstick - oil "burp"

 

Luke:
I'll add recent experiences that are similar to yours, and
besides, message 62373 was my post.

After I set up my PCV hoses to match the '00 diagram (3 way)

I reduced my oil burning but did not eliminate it. So I
experimented. I put a section of clear vinyl hose with a
loop in the PCV setup and saw that it collected some oil
in the bottom of the loop. I thought about a Krank Vent,
but didn't want to spend that much, so I bought a JEGS:

I put this in a hose from the case vent to the PCV valve. That
is, I closed off the Y that connected to the air intake.
It collected oil, especially after Interstate speed driving.
But the vinyl hoses showed oil on both sides--it wasn't
collecting all the oil. My mechanic was convinced the oil
burning is connected to the PCV setup, so he took the hose
from the case and ran it to a little filter. He blocked
the hose to the PCV valve and blocked the hose to the air
intake. So case vented to the atmosphere with a little
paper filter and PCV valve blocked.

I headed out from Boulder to the Mojave. I was overfilled
with oil--maybe about 5.5 qts. On the first real grade
on I-25, I shifted down to third, held it at about 5500 rpm
and suddenly felt it bog down. I was putting out a big
cloud of oil smoke. I nursed it until the smoke stopped
and everything checked OK. It was similar to an event early
in the conversion days when the PCV valve was stopped up.

The same thing happened about 5-6 more times on the trip.
However, as my oil level decreased, the magnitude of the smoke
and the "bogging down" decreased. It always happed in 3rd,
going up a hill at 5500 rpm. If I took it easy and stayed
below 5000 rpm, it didn't happen. Coming home, I ran a low
oil level--maybe 3.5 qts--and it didn't happen. I am convinced
it is connected to (1) oil level, (2) high rpms and (3) steep
grade.

The only way oil could get to my intake was through the valve
cover vent lines. At home, I pulled the air intake system to
look. Where the plastic intake connected to the intake manifold
part of the engine, there was definitely oil on the inside of
the plastic. Looking at the hoses from the valve covers was
inconclusive. There was some oil on the inside of my air filter
that could have only come from burping back out of the intake
hose. The paper filter on the end of the hose from the case
showed no evidence of any oil--of anything being pushed out
from the case. So the vacuum level in the air intake where
the vent cover hoses connect must be involved.

Why did the oil get there? Mark Drillock and I talked it over
while in the Mojave and he suggested that the steepness of
the hill and the Small Car pan design and the high rpms and
the high oil level were causing the crank to foam up the oil
and then push the foam up the vent hoses into the intake.

When the PCV hoses are set up as designed--the three-way hose
setup--the PCV valve probably sucks the foam away in a steady
manner so there is no "event" where the engine bogs down and
a lot of oil smoke comes out.

I have now set the PCV hoses up as designed--one from the case
to the Y, one from the air intake to the Y and one from the
Y to the PCV valve. I put the JEGS air oil separator between
the Y and the PCV valve. I'm heading to Moab soon and will
see how much oil it traps. [Why Subaru changed to a straight
hose from the PCV on the case to the intake manifold with no
Y to the air intake, I don't understand. The PCV valve at
the case must act differently than the PCV at the manifold.
They are different part numbers, I think.] I intend to run
the oil level low--3.5 qts or so. I'll report in a few weeks.

I'll add that my compression is 180 and leak-down 5% in all
cylinders. But my oil still turns very black pretty fast.
Of course the simple thing would be to tear down the engine
and find out what it looks like inside--oil rings, valve
seals, etc. But oil is very cheap compared to labor and
besides I'd rather go camping.

Any comments, reactions, analysis of all this would be very
welcome. Meanwhile, you can enjoy pictures of the Mojave trip
at :-)

Richard

--- In subaruvanagon@..., "lukerobertbakken" <luke@...> wrote:

Hey everyone,

You may remember in the past threads about "Oil burning" and white smoke on this forum:



I posted that I see the same behavior in my van ('89 syncro westy, EJ25 with SC aluminum pan):




OlRivrRat has posted that he has had success with the Krank Vent:



I noticed some interesting behavior this Friday while driving home across WA state. I got home and noticed that some oil had burped out of the smallcar tubular dipstick and down the back of my bumper. I have no idea how much oil escaped but I'll make note how much oil drains when I change it next. I have since plugged the dipstick.

One thing I did not follow up on in my message #61050 is that several weeks after that happened I decided to change my air filter. When I opened up the airbox (stock one from a Forester) it had a significant amount of oil in it. I assume that the oil was blown into the air box during the incident that caused the oil burning and smoke that I described in the same post.

I'm beginning to think that a device like a Krank Vent will be necessary on my van to keep these issues from happening as well as get rid of some oil consumption I notice during the course of driving the van.

Since my van has vent lines coming from both valve covers to either side of the air box, how would I pipe in a Krank Vent? I assume I will tee them together, run the output side of the vent to the air box, and plug the other side of the airbox as well.

Any ideas or input is welcome!
Thanks -
Luke


Re: SVX: Idle Fixed; Still Hesitates though...

Scott Daniel - Turbovans
 

good suggestion !
it's not the 02 sensors themselves though ..
it's that the right bank 02 sensor is talking to the ECU as the right
bank, and not the left.
and same for left.

wire them backwards and the ecu gets very confused.

On 4/28/2012 11:27 PM, David Hartenstein wrote:

To OP regarding hesitation. just for the fun of it, try switching your O2
sensors right for left.




Re: Little help reading 2001 Forester Wiring Diagram in files

 

Got it. A picks back up on page 21 where you see it running through
connector B98, where it changes wire colour to RG, runs through to
connector Pin 2 of the fuel tank pressure sensor.
If you're using one of smallcar's code defeat boards you may need to
use that wire as a connection therein but i doubt it. Because you are
not likely using a fuel tank pressure sensor you are good to cut it
back.
Other wires in that joined circuit run to pin C16 on your ecu. Pin 2
on the throttle position sensor (through engine harness connector
b21),, pin 1 on the atmospheric pressure sensor, pin 2 on the engine
coolant temp sensor, pin 3 of the rear o2 sensor (through connector
b20) all tie together on this circuit.

make sense? give a holler if not.
all the best,
brent



--
Brent Weide
Portland, Oregon
www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/