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How about a CXA version?? I have a 1922 15 ? that I added a CXA post to. Rick ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Mike Poore via groups.io
Sent: Monday, December 30, 2024 11:12 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Automotive flat belts for lathes? Thanks, Mark. I was going to make a tool like the Armstrong spring tool. Last night I went through your videos and noticed that was one of your early attempts. You indicated that it worked well, but something was not quite right. I would be curious hearing more about the problem. Regardless, you convinced me to make one like your recent version. No point redoing the research you have already done. Quinn has a great channel. Hopefully, you get a plug. On 12/30/2024 10:29 AM, Mark via groups.io wrote: On Mon, Dec 30, 2024 at 12:00 AM, Mike Poore wrote: I am a loyal watcher and subscriber. You do a good job with unique projects that are interesting to watch. I saw your belt video. The price you are asking is very reasonable. I am working on a simplified version of the parting tool in your recent video. I will post a picture of it when done.
Thanks Mike, the parting tool works very well. I've actually made five designs variation over the years. I think I finally perfected the design. As long as the feed rate is right (about .001" to .002" per revolution) and you give the blade a constant supply of oil it seems pretty much fool proof. Even the speed is very forgiving, as long as the SFPM is correct or slightly slower than spec for HSS. I just made 10 of them. I plan on selling them complete with the AXA Holder, Blade and a Needle Oiler. I sent one to Quinn Durkin (Blondiehacks) and she love it. She said it has become her go to parting tool. Can't beat that for a positive review. Not sure on a price yet. The AXA tool holder and blade add up to $35+ and the steel and bolts all add up quickly. It took me about 20 hours to make 10 although if I make more I'm sure that can be reduced. I want to keep the cost reasonable but also cover my time and expenses. 
?
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Thanks, Mark. I was going to make a tool like the Armstrong spring
tool. Last night I went through your videos and noticed that was one
of your early attempts. You indicated that it worked well, but
something was not quite right. I would be curious hearing more about
the problem. Regardless, you convinced me to make one like your
recent version. No point redoing the research you have already done.
Quinn has a great channel. Hopefully, you get a plug.
On 12/30/2024 10:29 AM, Mark via
groups.io wrote:
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Show quoted text
On Mon, Dec 30, 2024 at 12:00 AM, Mike Poore wrote:
I am a loyal watcher and subscriber. You do a good
job with unique projects that are interesting to watch. I saw
your belt video. The price you are asking is very reasonable.
I am working on a simplified version of the parting tool in
your recent video. I will post a picture of it when done.
Thanks Mike, the parting tool works very well. I've actually
made five designs variation over the years. I think I finally
perfected the design. As long as the feed rate is right (about
.001" to .002" per revolution) and you give the blade a constant
supply of oil it seems pretty much fool proof. Even the speed is
very forgiving, as long as the SFPM is correct or slightly
slower than spec for HSS. I just made 10 of them. I plan on
selling them complete with the AXA Holder, Blade and a Needle
Oiler. I sent one to Quinn Durkin (Blondiehacks) and she love
it. She said it has become her go to parting tool. Can't beat
that for a positive review. Not sure on a price yet. The AXA
tool holder and blade add up to $35+ and the steel and bolts all
add up quickly. It took me about 20 hours to make 10 although if
I make more I'm sure that can be reduced. I want to keep the
cost reasonable but also cover my time and expenses. 
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This is all good stuff. I appreciate all the replys!
?
Mike
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On Mon, Dec 30, 2024 at 12:00 AM, Mike Poore wrote:
I am a loyal watcher and subscriber. You do a good job with unique projects that are interesting to watch. I saw your belt video. The price you are asking is very reasonable. I am working on a simplified version of the parting tool in your recent video. I will post a picture of it when done.
Thanks Mike, the parting tool works very well. I've actually made five designs variation over the years. I think I finally perfected the design. As long as the feed rate is right (about .001" to .002" per revolution) and you give the blade a constant supply of oil it seems pretty much fool proof. Even the speed is very forgiving, as long as the SFPM is correct or slightly slower than spec for HSS. I just made 10 of them. I plan on selling them complete with the AXA Holder, Blade and a Needle Oiler. I sent one to Quinn Durkin (Blondiehacks) and she love it. She said it has become her go to parting tool. Can't beat that for a positive review. Not sure on a price yet. The AXA tool holder and blade add up to $35+ and the steel and bolts all add up quickly. It took me about 20 hours to make 10 although if I make more I'm sure that can be reduced. I want to keep the cost reasonable but also cover my time and expenses. 
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On Sun, Dec 29, 2024 at 09:38 PM, ww_big_al wrote:
Nope. I have never done a YouTube video.
AL-USA?
(ww_big_al)
You should try youtube Al. Ha, I think he was taking to me after I replied to your comment.?
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I am a loyal watcher and subscriber. You do a good job with unique
projects that are interesting to watch. I saw your belt video. The
price you are asking is very reasonable. I am working on a
simplified version of the parting tool in your recent video. I will
post a picture of it when done.
On 12/30/2024 12:19 AM, Mark via
groups.io wrote:
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On Sun, Dec 29, 2024 at 06:29 PM, Mike Poore wrote:
Are you "Winky?"
Thats me.??
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On Sun, Dec 29, 2024 at 06:41 PM, Gary Johnson wrote:
happy with the silent and trouble free operation of the modern composite belts. Just search for south bend lathe belt and there are numerous sellers, all around $31.
?
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That is a good price! Did it come with a guide to clamp the belt for gluing? Was the glue dark brown and thin? The Fixol glue I use is supposed too be heated but I also heard it works without heat but it takes a long time. Maybe its the same glue.
?
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On Sun, Dec 29, 2024 at 06:29 PM, Mike Poore wrote:
Are you "Winky?"
Thats me.??
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Nope. I have never done a YouTube video. AL-USA? (ww_big_al) ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Mike Poore via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2024 7:29 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Automotive flat belts for lathes? Are you "Winky?"
On 12/29/2024 3:08 PM, Mark via groups.io wrote: On Sun, Dec 29, 2024 at 12:53 PM, ww_big_al wrote: Winky’s work shop did a video on it. Using glue. ?
I need to do a new video on that. I sell a flat belt (Habasit F1). Anything under 2" wide for $5/ foot. I got a good deal on two surplus rolls. Most suppliers sell the same belt for over $13/foot. The recommended glue for this belt (and most) is Fixol but it requires heat. I also sell a belt guide and glue for $15 total but you have to buy a $20 heater. Basically, with shipping it will cost $45 plus the cost of the belt to be able to splice it on the lathe and about $20 plus the belt cost for me to pre-splice the belt.? - Thanks Al!
?
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Mine is like that too.? More than 10 years with mig wire but now starting to come apart as the holes tear.
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-------- Original message -------- From: "tk_1971 via groups.io" <tk_1971@...> Date: 2024-12-29 12:18 p.m. (GMT-06:00) Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Automotive flat belts for lathes
This is what I use. ?Lacing it up was supposed to be temporary but it’s been years and it seems to be holding up. 
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Another vote for the prefabricated flat belts on eBay. After too much farting around and numerous glue failures on the automotive belt, I’m really happy with the silent and trouble free operation of the modern composite belts. Just search for south bend lathe belt and there are numerous sellers, all around $31.
?
Gary
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Are you "Winky?"
On 12/29/2024 3:08 PM, Mark via
groups.io wrote:
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Show quoted text
On Sun, Dec 29, 2024 at 12:53 PM, ww_big_al wrote:
Winky’s
work shop did a video on it. Using glue.
?
I need to do a new video on that. I sell a flat belt (Habasit
F1). Anything under 2" wide for $5/ foot. I got a good deal on
two surplus rolls. Most suppliers sell the same belt for over
$13/foot. The recommended glue for this belt (and most) is Fixol
but it requires heat. I also sell a belt guide and glue for $15
total but you have to buy a $20 heater. Basically, with shipping
it will cost $45 plus the cost of the belt to be able to splice
it on the lathe and about $20 plus the belt cost for me to
pre-splice the belt.? - Thanks Al!
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Just go with a link belt its much easier, i have used them for years had no problems with them. If you need a flat belt use leather . there is a seller on e-bay. he is in Niles,Ill . he will make them to length. On my south bend lathe i have a tool to join the ends. I call them eagle claws ?
GP
On Sunday, December 29, 2024 at 01:31:50 PM EST, lance via groups.io <gbof@...> wrote:
A think a ?” minimum step overlap would be minimum I’d try for 1” step, that should hold for years with the right glue, clamp, cure time. On Dec 28, 2024, at 7:45 PM, mikemm58 via < mmcauley@...> wrote:
Thanks for the replys. I guess my main question would be the type of adhesive to use.??
Also, I'm not sure if i have the ability to cut an even taper on both ends, so I thought a stepped lap joint would work (??)??
(How much overlap should be good?)
The Duralast info states the material is rubber.
Mike On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 5:33 PM, lance via? I used one for years on my 16” SBL. Cut on a taper. Use a belt sander to make opposing tapers on the belt Glue, overlap the taper belt edges, clamp and let sit overnight. I forget what glue I used, might have Been Permatex??
Lance On Dec 28, 2024, at 7:12 PM, mikemm58 via ??< mmcauley@...> wrote:
Hello, ? Wondering if automotive flat belts (grooved serpentine type) can be put to use as a drive belt for my 10L.? ? I just bought a Duralast #750K7 (7PK1905) and before I cut it and try to glue together, has anyone had prior success? ? Thanks...! ? Mike
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On Sun, Dec 29, 2024 at 12:53 PM, ww_big_al wrote:
Winky’s work shop did a video on it. Using glue.
?
I need to do a new video on that. I sell a flat belt (Habasit F1). Anything under 2" wide for $5/ foot. I got a good deal on two surplus rolls. Most suppliers sell the same belt for over $13/foot. The recommended glue for this belt (and most) is Fixol but it requires heat. I also sell a belt guide and glue for $15 total but you have to buy a $20 heater. Basically, with shipping it will cost $45 plus the cost of the belt to be able to splice it on the lathe and about $20 plus the belt cost for me to pre-splice the belt.? - Thanks Al!
|
Winky’s work shop did a video on it. Using glue. ?
? Al ? ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of lance via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2024 1:32 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Automotive flat belts for lathes? A think a ?” minimum step overlap would be minimum I’d try for 1” step, that should hold for years with the right glue, clamp, cure time.
On Dec 28, 2024, at 7:45 PM, mikemm58 via <mmcauley@...> wrote: ? Thanks for the replys. I guess my main question would be the type of adhesive to use.?? Also, I'm not sure if i have the ability to cut an even taper on both ends, so I thought a stepped lap joint would work (??)?? (How much overlap should be good?) The Duralast info states the material is rubber. Mike On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 5:33 PM, lance via? I used one for years on my 16” SBL. Cut on a taper. Use a belt sander to make opposing tapers on the belt Glue, overlap the taper belt edges, clamp and let sit overnight. I forget what glue I used, might have Been Permatex??
On Dec 28, 2024, at 7:12 PM, mikemm58 via??<mmcauley@...> wrote: ? Wondering if automotive flat belts (grooved serpentine type) can be put to use as a drive belt for my 10L.? I just bought a Duralast #750K7 (7PK1905) and before I cut it and try to glue together, has anyone had prior success?
?
?
|
A think a ?” minimum step overlap would be minimum I’d try for 1” step, that should hold for years with the right glue, clamp, cure time.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Dec 28, 2024, at 7:45 PM, mikemm58 via < mmcauley@...> wrote:
Thanks for the replys. I guess my main question would be the type of adhesive to use.??
Also, I'm not sure if i have the ability to cut an even taper on both ends, so I thought a stepped lap joint would work (??)??
(How much overlap should be good?)
The Duralast info states the material is rubber.
Mike On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 5:33 PM, lance via? I used one for years on my 16” SBL. Cut on a taper. Use a belt sander to make opposing tapers on the belt Glue, overlap the taper belt edges, clamp and let sit overnight. I forget what glue I used, might have Been Permatex??
Lance On Dec 28, 2024, at 7:12 PM, mikemm58 via ??< mmcauley@...> wrote:
Hello, ? Wondering if automotive flat belts (grooved serpentine type) can be put to use as a drive belt for my 10L.? ? I just bought a Duralast #750K7 (7PK1905) and before I cut it and try to glue together, has anyone had prior success? ? Thanks...! ? Mike
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This is what I use. ?Lacing it up was supposed to be temporary but it’s been years and it seems to be holding up. 
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I have a vw golf cam belt ( petrol ) smooth side to the pulleys on my SB 9 C counter shaft, works OK,, I tried one on the final drive,,went back to good old leather, crocodile clips ticking away,, turn the radio up a notch. Or scarfe joint glued, your choice.
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That is probably the best option if you can, but is not possible
for many of the under-drive lathes where the belt passes through
holes in the casting.
On 12/29/24 09:42, Jonathan via
groups.io wrote:
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I have used one for years with no problems. ?I did not cut and
splice it though. ?I took the headstock apart and installed it
whole.
On
Saturday, December 28, 2024, 6:57 PM, mikemm58 via groups.io
<mmcauley@...> wrote:
Thanks for the replys. I guess my main question would be
the type of adhesive to use.??
Also, I'm not sure if i have the ability to
cut an even taper on both ends, so I thought a stepped lap
joint would work (??)??
(How much overlap should be good?)
The Duralast info states the material is
rubber.
Come to think of it... any reason Clipper
links wouldn't work? Would they rip thru the material when
under tension?
Mike
On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 5:33 PM, lance via
groups.io
I used one for years on my 16” SBL.
Cut on a taper. Use a
belt sander to make opposing tapers on the belt
Glue, overlap the taper
belt edges, clamp and let sit overnight.
I forget what glue I
used, might have Been Permatex??
Lance
On Dec 28, 2024, at
7:12 PM, mikemm58 via < mmcauley@...>
wrote:
Hello,
?
Wondering if
automotive flat belts (grooved serpentine
type) can be put to use as a drive belt
for my 10L.?
?
I just bought a
Duralast #750K7 (7PK1905)
and before I cut
it and try to glue together, has anyone
had prior success?
?
Thanks...!
?
Mike
|
I have used one for years with no problems. ?I did not cut and splice it though. ?I took the headstock apart and installed it whole.
On Saturday, December 28, 2024, 6:57 PM, mikemm58 via groups.io <mmcauley@...> wrote: Thanks for the replys. I guess my main question would be the type of adhesive to use.??
Also, I'm not sure if i have the ability to cut an even taper on both ends, so I thought a stepped lap joint would work (??)??
(How much overlap should be good?)
The Duralast info states the material is rubber.
Come to think of it... any reason Clipper links wouldn't work? Would they rip thru the material when under tension?
Mike
On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 5:33 PM, lance via groups.io <gbof@...> wrote: I used one for years on my 16” SBL. Cut on a taper. Use a belt sander to make opposing tapers on the belt Glue, overlap the taper belt edges, clamp and let sit overnight. I forget what glue I used, might have Been Permatex??
Lance On Dec 28, 2024, at 7:12 PM, mikemm58 via < mmcauley@...> wrote:
Hello,
?
Wondering if automotive flat belts (grooved serpentine type) can be put to use as a drive belt for my 10L.?
?
I just bought a Duralast #750K7 (7PK1905)
and before I cut it and try to glue together, has anyone had prior success?
?
Thanks...!
?
Mike
|
Rick Swineford
Mark
ww_big_al
tk_1971
Stuart Wilby