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CXA HOLDER 4.25” Thanks, Rick
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Mark via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2024 4:33 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Automotive flat belts for lathes? On Tue, Dec 31, 2024 at 01:53 PM, Don Verdiani wrote: So you knew someone would ask about a BXA version for a Heavy 10, right?
I made a couple BXA and sent them to a couple friends but neither have tested them yet. They will work but I wanted to make absolutely certain the bolt holes line up with a BXA holder.? I can get the AXA holders for $10 and will sell them with the tool but the BXA and CXA will be sold without the holder.?
In case you couldn't tell from the pictures the cut off tool mounts to a standard holder. All the tools will be sold with the blades. I just haven't decided on a price. I struggle with pricing. I tend to pay myself starvation wages. I like to give people a good deal but I have to be careful to cover my own time and materials as well.?
I'll post to the group when I make them available and also send you an email.?
BXA holders are sold in two sizes. Measure your holder front to back and let me know which. I think it will be 325" or 3.50".
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On Sat, Jan 4, 2025 at 09:56 AM, Don Verdiani wrote:
I just checked and my BXA holders are all over the place. I have a couple that measure 3” front to back, and a bunch at 3.5” approximately. Different suppliers, Aloris, Phase II, unknown Chinese, whatever.
?
Still interested. I went back into the thread. Are there video’s of this thing someplace?
Yeah I was going to sell a tool that bolted to the top of a holder and decided to by holders and sell them with the tools. Too many variations of the BXA? ?to keep up with but the dovetails are all the same.?
Yes, there have been 3 videos on this tool but the last and best version is in this video. There is also a link to the plans in the description.
?
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On Sat, Jan 4, 2025 at 09:12 AM, John Byghtn3 wrote:
I am a loyal watcher and subscriber. You do a good job with unique projects that are interesting to watch. I saw your belt video. The price you are asking is very reasonable. I am working on a simplified version of the parting tool in your recent video. I will post a picture of it when done.
Thanks John! I'd love to see the finished tool.
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Mark,
?
I just checked and my BXA holders are all over the place. I have a couple that measure 3” front to back, and a bunch at 3.5” approximately. Different suppliers, Aloris, Phase II, unknown Chinese, whatever.
?
Still interested. I went back into the thread. Are there video’s of this thing someplace?
?
Don Verdiani
Westtown, PA
?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
On Behalf Of Mark via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2024 4:33 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Automotive flat belts for lathes
?
On Tue, Dec 31, 2024 at 01:53 PM, Don Verdiani wrote:
So you knew someone would ask about a BXA version for a Heavy 10, right?
I made a couple BXA and sent them to a couple friends but neither have tested them yet. They will work but I wanted to make absolutely certain the bolt holes line up with a BXA holder.? I can get the AXA holders for $10 and will sell them with the tool but
the BXA and CXA will be sold without the holder.?
In case you couldn't tell from the pictures the cut off tool mounts to a standard holder. All the tools will be sold with the blades. I just haven't decided on a price. I struggle with pricing. I tend to pay myself starvation wages. I like to give people a
good deal but I have to be careful to cover my own time and materials as well.?
I'll post to the group when I make them available and also send you an email.?
BXA holders are sold in two sizes. Measure your holder front to back and let me know which. I think it will be 3.25" or 3.50".
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On 12/30/2024 10:29 AM, Mark via
groups.io wrote:
On Mon, Dec 30, 2024 at 12:00 AM, Mike Poore wrote:
I am a loyal watcher and subscriber. You do a good
job with unique projects that are interesting to watch. I saw
your belt video. The price you are asking is very reasonable.
I am working on a simplified version of the parting tool in
your recent video. I will post a picture of it when done.
Thanks Mike, the parting tool works very well. I've actually
made five designs variation over the years. I think I finally
perfected the design. As long as the feed rate is right (about
.001" to .002" per revolution) and you give the blade a constant
supply of oil it seems pretty much fool proof. Even the speed is
very forgiving, as long as the SFPM is correct or slightly
slower than spec for HSS. I just made 10 of them. I plan on
selling them complete with the AXA Holder, Blade and a Needle
Oiler. I sent one to Quinn Durkin (Blondiehacks) and she love
it. She said it has become her go to parting tool. Can't beat
that for a positive review. Not sure on a price yet. The AXA
tool holder and blade add up to $35+ and the steel and bolts all
add up quickly. It took me about 20 hours to make 10 although if
I make more I'm sure that can be reduced. I want to keep the
cost reasonable but also cover my time and expenses. 
Mark,
Can this be resized to 0XA size?
Thanks for all you do and try to show us how to do for
ourselves..
John
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That about covers it. I will say that a local company made my belt
with the wire hooks for $15 while I waited.
On 1/3/2025 4:44 PM, Andrei via
groups.io wrote:
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Looks to me that some are determined to make this as complicated
as possible.?
The most reasonable options are:
-
A flat belt glue-up kit from
multiple vendors at a cost of about 30 bucks.
-
A flat belt lace-up kit from
multiple vendors at a cost of about 30 bucks
-
A link-belt which costs about 35
bucks. The feedback on using this is insufficient to
determine if it is a fitting option.
-
Everything else, that seems to be
more complicated and laborious and is not certain if it
saves anything. Automotive wide belts run about 50+ bucks.
Am I missing something? Or are we just masochists at heart?
No, at least, not on my heavy 10. The headstock
has a cast cross support. On my 9, I do just remove the spindle.
On Jan 3, 2025, at 1:45?PM, Mike
Poore via groups.io <mpoore10@...>
wrote:
? My preference is the wire hook splice as it
can be removed/replaced by pulling the pin. The ticking
does not bother me, but I can see it bothering others.
Frankly, the only time I hear the ticking is when the
carriage is in neutral. Those gears are noisy. If you are
willing to remove the spindle can't you install rubber
auto belt without cutting it first?
On 1/2/2025 12:05 PM, Al
MacDonald via groups.io wrote:
I know this is a bit off the wall
but… ?I recently replaced the round leather belt on an
old treadle sewing machine. Normally one would
drill/punch a hole near each end and use a hog ring. I
ended up poking a hole through the leather with a needle
and sewing the ends together, wrapped around many times.
?I think one could do a similar thing with a flat belt.
?Advantages would be only tiny holes punched, a larger
area of contact compared with hog rings, a very flexible
joint and no ticking. If standard nylon thread wasn’t
quite strong enough one could use nylon lacing.?
?
On Mon, Dec 30, 2024 at 10:11 PM, Mike Poore
wrote:
You indicated that it worked well, but
something was not quite right. I would be
curious hearing more about the problem.
Regardless, you convinced me to make one like
your recent version. No point redoing the
research you have already done. Quinn has a
great channel. Hopefully, you get a plug.
I never figured out why the other tool failed to
work well but it may have had to do with the tilt
of the blade. The problematic design had no tilt
(or back rake angle)?
The new design never fails but this following
requirements are important:
1) Feed rate needs to be between .001" to .002"
per revolution.?
2) A small amount of oil but a constant stream
(use a bottle with a needle
3) The RPM need to be at or a bit below the
calculated SFPM for HSS
4) Blade Stick-out needs to be 1-inch. (it affects
the leverage it has on the spring)
The last one is weird. It will scream and chatter
if you shorten it to 1/2". This might also have
been the issue with my past design. It's
counterintuitive to shorten have a lot of
stick-out.?
|
On Fri, Jan 3, 2025 at 03:44 PM, Andrei wrote:
A link-belt which costs about 35 bucks. The feedback on using this is insufficient to determine if it is a fitting option.
Link belt are V belts. A bit expensive but excellent!?
|
Looks to me that some are determined to make this as complicated as possible.?
The most reasonable options are:
-
A flat belt glue-up kit from multiple vendors at a cost of about 30 bucks.
-
A flat belt lace-up kit from multiple vendors at a cost of about 30 bucks
-
A link-belt which costs about 35 bucks. The feedback on using this is insufficient to determine if it is a fitting option.
-
Everything else, that seems to be more complicated and laborious and is not certain if it saves anything. Automotive wide belts run about 50+ bucks.
Am I missing something? Or are we just masochists at heart?
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Show quoted text
No, at least, not on my heavy 10. The headstock has a cast cross support. On my 9, I do just remove the spindle.
On Jan 3, 2025, at 1:45?PM, Mike Poore via groups.io <mpoore10@...> wrote:
? My preference is the wire hook splice as it can be removed/replaced by pulling the pin. The ticking does not bother me, but I can see it bothering others. Frankly, the only time I hear the ticking is when the carriage is in neutral. Those gears
are noisy. If you are willing to remove the spindle can't you install rubber auto belt without cutting it first?
On 1/2/2025 12:05 PM, Al MacDonald via groups.io wrote:
I know this is a bit off the wall but… ?I recently replaced the round leather belt on an old treadle sewing machine. Normally one would drill/punch a hole near each end and use a hog ring. I ended up poking a hole through the leather
with a needle and sewing the ends together, wrapped around many times. ?I think one could do a similar thing with a flat belt. ?Advantages would be only tiny holes punched, a larger area of contact compared with hog rings, a very flexible joint and no ticking.
If standard nylon thread wasn’t quite strong enough one could use nylon lacing.?
?
On Mon, Dec 30, 2024 at 10:11 PM, Mike Poore wrote:
You indicated that it worked well, but something was not quite right. I would be curious hearing more about the problem. Regardless, you convinced me to make one like your recent version. No point redoing the research you have already done. Quinn
has a great channel. Hopefully, you get a plug.
I never figured out why the other tool failed to work well but it may have had to do with the tilt of the blade. The problematic design had no tilt (or back rake angle)?
The new design never fails but this following requirements are important:
1) Feed rate needs to be between .001" to .002" per revolution.?
2) A small amount of oil but a constant stream (use a bottle with a needle
3) The RPM need to be at or a bit below the calculated SFPM for HSS
4) Blade Stick-out needs to be 1-inch. (it affects the leverage it has on the spring)
The last one is weird. It will scream and chatter if you shorten it to 1/2". This might also have been the issue with my past design. It's counterintuitive to shorten have a lot of stick-out.?
|
No, at least, not on my heavy 10. The headstock has a cast cross support. On my 9, I do just remove the spindle.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 3, 2025, at 1:45?PM, Mike Poore via groups.io <mpoore10@...> wrote:
?
My preference is the wire hook splice as it can be removed/replaced
by pulling the pin. The ticking does not bother me, but I can see it
bothering others. Frankly, the only time I hear the ticking is when
the carriage is in neutral. Those gears are noisy. If you are
willing to remove the spindle can't you install rubber auto belt
without cutting it first?
On 1/2/2025 12:05 PM, Al MacDonald via
groups.io wrote:
I know this is a bit off the wall but… ?I recently replaced the
round leather belt on an old treadle sewing machine. Normally one
would drill/punch a hole near each end and use a hog ring. I ended
up poking a hole through the leather with a needle and sewing the
ends together, wrapped around many times. ?I think one could do a
similar thing with a flat belt. ?Advantages would be only tiny
holes punched, a larger area of contact compared with hog rings, a
very flexible joint and no ticking. If standard nylon thread
wasn’t quite strong enough one could use nylon lacing.?
?
On Mon, Dec 30, 2024 at 10:11 PM, Mike Poore wrote:
You indicated that it worked well, but something
was not quite right. I would be curious hearing more about
the problem. Regardless, you convinced me to make one like
your recent version. No point redoing the research you
have already done. Quinn has a great channel. Hopefully,
you get a plug.
I never figured out why the other tool failed to work well
but it may have had to do with the tilt of the blade. The
problematic design had no tilt (or back rake angle)?
The new design never fails but this following requirements
are important:
1) Feed rate needs to be between .001" to .002" per
revolution.?
2) A small amount of oil but a constant stream (use a bottle
with a needle
3) The RPM need to be at or a bit below the calculated SFPM
for HSS
4) Blade Stick-out needs to be 1-inch. (it affects the
leverage it has on the spring)
The last one is weird. It will scream and chatter if you
shorten it to 1/2". This might also have been the issue with
my past design. It's counterintuitive to shorten have a lot
of stick-out.?
|
I removed the spindles on both of my 9A & 10K Lathe. I have noticed that the 9A belt sucks because it slips a lot. The10k works great w/o much belt slippage. I believe the 9A is a gator style belt. Al-USA ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Mike Poore via groups.io
Sent: Friday, January 3, 2025 11:45 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Automotive flat belts for lathes? My preference is the wire hook splice as it can be removed/replaced by pulling the pin. The ticking does not bother me, but I can see it bothering others. Frankly, the only time I hear the ticking is when the carriage is in neutral. Those gears are noisy. If you are willing to remove the spindle can't you install rubber auto belt without cutting it first? On 1/2/2025 12:05 PM, Al MacDonald via groups.io wrote: I know this is a bit off the wall but… ?I recently replaced the round leather belt on an old treadle sewing machine. Normally one would drill/punch a hole near each end and use a hog ring. I ended up poking a hole through the leather with a needle and sewing the ends together, wrapped around many times. ?I think one could do a similar thing with a flat belt. ?Advantages would be only tiny holes punched, a larger area of contact compared with hog rings, a very flexible joint and no ticking. If standard nylon thread wasn’t quite strong enough one could use nylon lacing.? ? On Mon, Dec 30, 2024 at 10:11 PM, Mike Poore wrote: You indicated that it worked well, but something was not quite right. I would be curious hearing more about the problem. Regardless, you convinced me to make one like your recent version. No point redoing the research you have already done. Quinn has a great channel. Hopefully, you get a plug.
I never figured out why the other tool failed to work well but it may have had to do with the tilt of the blade. The problematic design had no tilt (or back rake angle)?
The new design never fails but this following requirements are important:
1) Feed rate needs to be between .001" to .002" per revolution.?
2) A small amount of oil but a constant stream (use a bottle with a needle
3) The RPM need to be at or a bit below the calculated SFPM for HSS
4) Blade Stick-out needs to be 1-inch. (it affects the leverage it has on the spring)
The last one is weird. It will scream and chatter if you shorten it to 1/2". This might also have been the issue with my past design. It's counterintuitive to shorten have a lot of stick-out.?
?
|
> If you are willing to remove the spindle can't you install rubber auto belt without cutting it first?
Not on all lathes.? The headstock support on my light 10 (10k) is cast such that the belt has to go through two separate holes on the way to the under-mount drive.
You can see these holes in this picture of the bottom of that headstock support here:?
I believe the headstock casting has a similar shape to it, but I don't think I have a good picture of that -- I also think the undermount drive hanger would require cutting the belt.
My preference is the wire hook splice as it can be removed/replaced
by pulling the pin. The ticking does not bother me, but I can see it
bothering others. Frankly, the only time I hear the ticking is when
the carriage is in neutral. Those gears are noisy. If you are
willing to remove the spindle can't you install rubber auto belt
without cutting it first?
On 1/2/2025 12:05 PM, Al MacDonald via
wrote:
I know this is a bit off the wall but… ?I recently replaced the
round leather belt on an old treadle sewing machine. Normally one
would drill/punch a hole near each end and use a hog ring. I ended
up poking a hole through the leather with a needle and sewing the
ends together, wrapped around many times.? I think one could do a
similar thing with a flat belt.? Advantages would be only tiny
holes punched, a larger area of contact compared with hog rings, a
very flexible joint and no ticking. If standard nylon thread
wasn’t quite strong enough one could use nylon lacing.?
?
On Mon, Dec 30, 2024 at 10:11 PM, Mike Poore wrote:
You indicated that it worked well, but something
was not quite right. I would be curious hearing more about
the problem. Regardless, you convinced me to make one like
your recent version. No point redoing the research you
have already done. Quinn has a great channel. Hopefully,
you get a plug.
I never figured out why the other tool failed to work well
but it may have had to do with the tilt of the blade. The
problematic design had no tilt (or back rake angle)?
The new design never fails but this following requirements
are important:
1) Feed rate needs to be between .001" to .002" per
revolution.?
2) A small amount of oil but a constant stream (use a bottle
with a needle
3) The RPM need to be at or a bit below the calculated SFPM
for HSS
4) Blade Stick-out needs to be 1-inch. (it affects the
leverage it has on the spring)
The last one is weird. It will scream and chatter if you
shorten it to 1/2". This might also have been the issue with
my past design. It's counterintuitive to shorten have a lot
of stick-out.?
|
My preference is the wire hook splice as it can be removed/replaced
by pulling the pin. The ticking does not bother me, but I can see it
bothering others. Frankly, the only time I hear the ticking is when
the carriage is in neutral. Those gears are noisy. If you are
willing to remove the spindle can't you install rubber auto belt
without cutting it first?
On 1/2/2025 12:05 PM, Al MacDonald via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I know this is a bit off the wall but… ?I recently replaced the
round leather belt on an old treadle sewing machine. Normally one
would drill/punch a hole near each end and use a hog ring. I ended
up poking a hole through the leather with a needle and sewing the
ends together, wrapped around many times. ?I think one could do a
similar thing with a flat belt. ?Advantages would be only tiny
holes punched, a larger area of contact compared with hog rings, a
very flexible joint and no ticking. If standard nylon thread
wasn’t quite strong enough one could use nylon lacing.?
?
On Mon, Dec 30, 2024 at 10:11 PM, Mike Poore wrote:
You indicated that it worked well, but something
was not quite right. I would be curious hearing more about
the problem. Regardless, you convinced me to make one like
your recent version. No point redoing the research you
have already done. Quinn has a great channel. Hopefully,
you get a plug.
I never figured out why the other tool failed to work well
but it may have had to do with the tilt of the blade. The
problematic design had no tilt (or back rake angle)?
The new design never fails but this following requirements
are important:
1) Feed rate needs to be between .001" to .002" per
revolution.?
2) A small amount of oil but a constant stream (use a bottle
with a needle
3) The RPM need to be at or a bit below the calculated SFPM
for HSS
4) Blade Stick-out needs to be 1-inch. (it affects the
leverage it has on the spring)
The last one is weird. It will scream and chatter if you
shorten it to 1/2". This might also have been the issue with
my past design. It's counterintuitive to shorten have a lot
of stick-out.?
|
?
Lacing leather belts has been done for a long time... works very well!
?
|
That sounds similar to the instructions for lacing a belt from the "how to run a lathe" book. I've done that for a rivet forge fan belt, but found that I prefer skiving and glueing.? It seems to run smoother and I think holds up better.
I know this is a bit off the wall but… ?I recently replaced the round leather belt on an old treadle sewing machine. Normally one would drill/punch a hole near each end and use a hog ring. I ended up poking a hole through the leather with a needle and sewing the ends together, wrapped around many times.? I think one could do a similar thing with a flat belt.? Advantages would be only tiny holes punched, a larger area of contact compared with hog rings, a very flexible joint and no ticking. If standard nylon thread wasn’t quite strong enough one could use nylon lacing.? ? On Mon, Dec 30, 2024 at 10:11 PM, Mike Poore wrote:
You indicated that it worked well, but something was not quite right. I would be curious hearing more about the problem. Regardless, you convinced me to make one like your recent version. No point redoing the research you have already done. Quinn has a great channel. Hopefully, you get a plug.
I never figured out why the other tool failed to work well but it may have had to do with the tilt of the blade. The problematic design had no tilt (or back rake angle)? The new design never fails but this following requirements are important: 1) Feed rate needs to be between .001" to .002" per revolution.? 2) A small amount of oil but a constant stream (use a bottle with a needle 3) The RPM need to be at or a bit below the calculated SFPM for HSS 4) Blade Stick-out needs to be 1-inch. (it affects the leverage it has on the spring) The last one is weird. It will scream and chatter if you shorten it to 1/2". This might also have been the issue with my past design. It's counterintuitive to shorten have a lot of stick-out.?
|
I know this is a bit off the wall but… ?I recently replaced the round leather belt on an old treadle sewing machine. Normally one would drill/punch a hole near each end and use a hog ring. I ended up poking a hole through the leather with a needle and sewing the ends together, wrapped around many times. ?I think one could do a similar thing with a flat belt. ?Advantages would be only tiny holes punched, a larger area of contact compared with hog rings, a very flexible joint and no ticking. If standard nylon thread wasn’t quite strong enough one could use nylon lacing.?
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On Dec 31, 2024, at 11:37, Mark via groups.io <mark21056@...> wrote:
? On Mon, Dec 30, 2024 at 10:11 PM, Mike Poore wrote:
You indicated that it worked well, but something was not quite right. I would be curious hearing more about the problem. Regardless, you convinced me to make one like your recent version. No point redoing the research you have already done. Quinn has a great channel. Hopefully, you get a plug.
I never figured out why the other tool failed to work well but it may have had to do with the tilt of the blade. The problematic design had no tilt (or back rake angle)? The new design never fails but this following requirements are important: 1) Feed rate needs to be between .001" to .002" per revolution.? 2) A small amount of oil but a constant stream (use a bottle with a needle 3) The RPM need to be at or a bit below the calculated SFPM for HSS 4) Blade Stick-out needs to be 1-inch. (it affects the leverage it has on the spring) The last one is weird. It will scream and chatter if you shorten it to 1/2". This might also have been the issue with my past design. It's counterintuitive to shorten have a lot of stick-out.?
|
I will try to measure tomorrow.? Thanks, Rick
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Mark via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2024 4:33 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Automotive flat belts for lathes? On Tue, Dec 31, 2024 at 01:53 PM, Don Verdiani wrote: So you knew someone would ask about a BXA version for a Heavy 10, right?
I made a couple BXA and sent them to a couple friends but neither have tested them yet. They will work but I wanted to make absolutely certain the bolt holes line up with a BXA holder.? I can get the AXA holders for $10 and will sell them with the tool but the BXA and CXA will be sold without the holder.?
In case you couldn't tell from the pictures the cut off tool mounts to a standard holder. All the tools will be sold with the blades. I just haven't decided on a price. I struggle with pricing. I tend to pay myself starvation wages. I like to give people a good deal but I have to be careful to cover my own time and materials as well.?
I'll post to the group when I make them available and also send you an email.?
BXA holders are sold in two sizes. Measure your holder front to back and let me know which. I think it will be 325" or 3.50".
|
On Tue, Dec 31, 2024 at 01:53 PM, Don Verdiani wrote:
So you knew someone would ask about a BXA version for a Heavy 10, right?
I made a couple BXA and sent them to a couple friends but neither have tested them yet. They will work but I wanted to make absolutely certain the bolt holes line up with a BXA holder.? I can get the AXA holders for $10 and will sell them with the tool but the BXA and CXA will be sold without the holder.? In case you couldn't tell from the pictures the cut off tool mounts to a standard holder. All the tools will be sold with the blades. I just haven't decided on a price. I struggle with pricing. I tend to pay myself starvation wages. I like to give people a good deal but I have to be careful to cover my own time and materials as well.? I'll post to the group when I make them available and also send you an email.? BXA holders are sold in two sizes. Measure your holder front to back and let me know which. I think it will be 3.25" or 3.50".
|
So you knew someone would ask about a BXA version for a Heavy 10, right?
?
Don Verdiani
Westtown, PA
?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
On Behalf Of Mark via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2024 1:41 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Automotive flat belts for lathes
?
On Tue, Dec 31, 2024 at 06:59 AM, Rick Swineford wrote:
How about a CXA version?? I have a 1922 15 ? that I added a CXA post to.
Rick
It should be doable?
?
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On Tue, Dec 31, 2024 at 06:59 AM, Rick Swineford wrote:
How about a CXA version?? I have a 1922 15 ? that I added a CXA post to.
Rick
It should be doable?
?
|
On Mon, Dec 30, 2024 at 10:11 PM, Mike Poore wrote:
You indicated that it worked well, but something was not quite right. I would be curious hearing more about the problem. Regardless, you convinced me to make one like your recent version. No point redoing the research you have already done. Quinn has a great channel. Hopefully, you get a plug.
I never figured out why the other tool failed to work well but it may have had to do with the tilt of the blade. The problematic design had no tilt (or back rake angle)? The new design never fails but this following requirements are important: 1) Feed rate needs to be between .001" to .002" per revolution.? 2) A small amount of oil but a constant stream (use a bottle with a needle 3) The RPM need to be at or a bit below the calculated SFPM for HSS 4) Blade Stick-out needs to be 1-inch. (it affects the leverage it has on the spring) The last one is weird. It will scream and chatter if you shorten it to 1/2". This might also have been the issue with my past design. It's counterintuitive to shorten have a lot of stick-out.?
|
Rick Swineford
Mark
ww_big_al
