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I just serviced all of the Spartan Seacocks on my boat, before I started only 3 of my 10 worked, now they all unfrozen and work as they should.
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I used the Spartan service kit, which I bought here: ?
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I then followed the instructions that Stephanie posted, really glad I had those. ?For the Seacocks that were frozen, I chose to lightly tap on the handle with a small hammer, and that freed all of them. ?I was very careful, as I knew not to "beat" on them. ?Turns out all of mine were in great shape, and I only had to lap 2 of them. ?The rest I was able to simply clean up with a solvent degreaser, re-grease and then reassemble. ?
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In total it took an afternoon to do all of them, but really glad I did.
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Tim Dokken
1985 Sabre 32 #59
Bayfield, WI
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Greg, is the ‘light wack’ is on the adjusting nut?
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I had to service most of mine which were frozen before Geico would insure the boat.
I found that once you remove the lock nut and loosen the adjusting nut, a light wack with a hammer did the trick. Be sure to protect the threads on the cone stud if you go this route. I unscrewed the adjusting nut enough to protect the threads, and tapped on the nut not the stud.
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Greg
34-338
Duet
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I had to service most of mine which were frozen before Geico would insure the boat.
I found that once you remove the lock nut and loosen the adjusting nut, a light wack with a hammer did the trick. Be sure to protect the threads on the cone stud if you go this route. I unscrewed the adjusting nut enough to protect the threads, and tapped on the nut not the stud.
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Greg
34-338
Duet
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I believe the grease is listed here. With the best way to free the cone style.?
A rewarding job that lasts many years.?
Please don’t ask if you should replace them or comment if you have a preference for a different style! ?That’s the dreaded seacock wars!?
Stephanie
Arista, S36 #67, Lake Ontario?
?I tried to find the thread on ‘how to unseize a seacock in the archives but ran out of ‘search patience’. ?What is the procedure to free up a seacock? ?Once it is free, what category of lubricant do I use?
Thanks, Dave G
Serenade S34-1 #184
NB, Canada
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Stephanie
Moderator
Sabre 36, #67
Formerly Sabre 28-2, #289
Wilson Harbor, NY Lake Ontario
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I believe the grease is listed here. With the best way to free the cone style.?
A rewarding job that lasts many years.?
Please don’t ask if you should replace them or comment if you have a preference for a different style! ?That’s the dreaded seacock wars!?
Stephanie
Arista, S36 #67, Lake Ontario?
Shburgess1207@...?
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On Mar 21, 2025, at 20:20, David Gerhardt via groups.io <davidgerhardt56@...> wrote:
?I tried to find the thread on ‘how to unseize a seacock in the archives but ran out of ‘search patience’. ?What is the procedure to free up a seacock? ?Once it is free, what category of lubricant do I use?
Thanks, Dave G
Serenade S34-1 #184
NB, Canada
--
Stephanie
Moderator
Sabre 36, #67
Formerly Sabre 28-2, #289
Wilson Harbor, NY Lake Ontario
I tried to find the thread on ‘how to unseize a seacock in the archives but ran out of ‘search patience’. What is the procedure to free up a seacock? Once it is free, what category of lubricant do I use?
Thanks, Dave G
Serenade S34-1 #184
NB, Canada
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Re: 402 head/shower drains
Tony,?
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The sink itself is well above the waterline while at rest. On a hard port tack, you may take some water into the sink. As for the shower, I believe the strainer and shower pump act as a one-way valve to keep water from backfilling the shower.?
Hope that answers your question. Do you have a 402? You might want to check your layout.?
Best,
Jordan
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S402-047
formerly S36-087
Lake Michigan
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Re: Keel Boat Replacement
Here is some more information
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Tim R
38MKII in refit
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Re: Keel Boat Replacement
Hi Michael,
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Not always.
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Evidence of hour glassing can appear as leaking through the nut area as the seal has been compromised.
Removing the nut or washer and digging out the sealant can also give you enough exposure to see if it is there.? (not always)
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This could be a long drawn out answer as there are many indicators.
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The 38 MKII has 9 bolts I recall and they used an epoxy to attach the hull to the keel.
Chances of failure are extremely low in my opinion-? Design factors are 5x minimum.
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My boat is 33 years old and there is evidence of stray voltage corrosion (on one bolt) - I am getting my j-bolts replaced (all of them)
so I can hand this boat off to a future generation (once I am done) knowing it is a safe as it was designed to be.
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I have had suggestions to drill down and remove old J bolt and replace with stainless stud - I have considered this option but it would be a temporary one for me.
I have made the decision to replace them all.
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Cost is approximately CAD $10,000 for MARS work + yard work/freight etc.
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I have budgeted CAD $20K (USD $14,000) for the job.? (for those who want an idea of cost)
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Tim R
38MKII in refit.
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Re: Keel Boat Replacement
If only one keel bolt needs replacing it is possible to add another keelbolt next to it without dropping the keel. A hole is drilled down into the keel from the bilge and another hole is drilled horizontally to intercept the vertical hole. Threaded rod is then used to make a keel bolt with a nut and washer on the bottom (in the horizontal hole) and nut washer on the bilge side of the rod. The horizontal hole is then filled with epoxy.
Dave Second Star S362 #113 Fair Haven, NY/Lake Ontario
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On Mar 21, 2025, at 1:12?PM, Michael Sterling via groups.io <sterling1mster@...> wrote:
Tim, this kind of damage would not br obvious without dropping the keel, am I correct?
Mike
s/v Ladylike?
88 38' MK II Hi Manny, ? In many cases, it is very obvious. ? If you have serious corrosion present - a visual inspection will clearly identify any severe bolt/nut corrosion issues. If a keel has mysterious leaking through the keel bolts - then the option is to drop the keel to inspect the bolts to determine whether or not the bolts are compromised.? They will show signs of hour glassing. ? Nut corrosion is common and can be corrected by removing the nuts and replacing with new nuts and washers.? This provides an opportunity to see more of the bolts and inspect for any hour glassing present. ? Stray voltage at a marina can be a real risk - If all looks good now, it's not a bad idea to add a galvanic isolator to the boat to help ensure some protection against stray voltage. ? Others may have more input on this. ? I added an example I found on line as an example of hour glassing. ? Tim R 38MKII in refit
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Re: Keel Boat Replacement
Tim, this kind of damage would not br obvious without dropping the keel, am I correct?
Mike
s/v Ladylike
88 38' MK II
Hi Manny,
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In many cases, it is very obvious.
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If you have serious corrosion present - a visual inspection will clearly identify any severe bolt/nut corrosion issues.
If a keel has mysterious leaking through the keel bolts - then the option is to drop the keel to inspect the bolts to determine whether or not the bolts are compromised.? They will show signs of hour glassing.
?
Nut corrosion is common and can be corrected by removing the nuts and replacing with new nuts and washers.? This provides an opportunity to see more of the bolts and inspect for any hour glassing present.
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Stray voltage at a marina can be a real risk - If all looks good now, it's not a bad idea to add a galvanic isolator to the boat to help ensure some protection against stray voltage.
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Others may have more input on this.
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I added an example I found on line as an example of hour glassing.
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Tim R
38MKII in refit
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Re: Keel Boat Replacement
Hi Manny,
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In many cases, it is very obvious.
?
If you have serious corrosion present - a visual inspection will clearly identify any severe bolt/nut corrosion issues.
If a keel has mysterious leaking through the keel bolts - then the option is to drop the keel to inspect the bolts to determine whether or not the bolts are compromised.? They will show signs of hour glassing.
?
Nut corrosion is common and can be corrected by removing the nuts and replacing with new nuts and washers.? This provides an opportunity to see more of the bolts and inspect for any hour glassing present.
?
Stray voltage at a marina can be a real risk - If all looks good now, it's not a bad idea to add a galvanic isolator to the boat to help ensure some protection against stray voltage.
?
Others may have more input on this.
?
I added an example I found on line as an example of hour glassing.
?
Tim R
38MKII in refit
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Thanks! I'll keep that option in my
back pocket. I had thought that I could substitute a 1-1/2" sheave
from Schaefer or Ronstan, but from the photos, the organizer
appears to have bushings between the bolt and the sheave, while
the potential replacements are drilled at 7/16" for the bolt. They
were probably trying to keep the sheave from binding... which is
exactly what two of them are doing.
On 3/21/2025 9:54 AM, Allan via
groups.io wrote:
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Hi Dan
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I replaced all the sheaves in my deck organizers ?a few years
ago with sheaves from Zephyrwerks, they are far superior but
expensive. Google them and you’ll find their website.
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Allan
Dagny
S402-59
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Re: 402 head/shower drains
I was pretty sure that was the case, at
least for Hull #70, but planned to inspect just because there was
a question.? Glad to check that item off the list.
On 3/21/2025 10:44 AM, Jordan via
groups.io wrote:
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I did some digging into this and hopefully have some closure
for the topic. Hull #004 and #047 both T into a smaller hose
that goes into the pump and then overboard via the sink thru
hull. The junction can be found if you remove the bottom stair
tread and do some digging. I can’t speak for everyone’s boat,
but these are both the same.?
hope that helps.?
have a great weekend everyone.?
jordan?
s402-047
formerly s36-087
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lake michigan?
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Re: Replacing 402 hot water heater
Cool.?
Impacts resale.?
Please consider the environment before printing this email. Thank you.
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On Mar 21, 2025, at 9:01?AM, Jim Gregory via groups.io <jgregor1.jg@...> wrote:
? 5.3 is enough for two people that are cruising. It's always good to be conservative with fresh water use on a boat. I got by nicely with heaters of that capacity for years. My 12 gallon tank is an extravagance that I would not replace if needed. 5-6 gallon is fine.
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Jim Gregory
Sabre 402 #32
Milford CT
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Re: 402 head/shower drains
I may misunderstand. The description sounded like it tied into the thru hull.?
Would need a loop to prevent leaking backing into bilge wouldn’t it ??
Please consider the environment before printing this email. Thank you.
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On Mar 21, 2025, at 8:52?AM, Jordan via groups.io <jordan.permoda@...> wrote:
? Tony,?
I’m not sure I understand your question. If the shower drain were to leak, it would go to the bilge and be limited to how long the shower is running…
is that what you mean?
?
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Re: Replacing 402 hot water heater
5.3 is enough for two people that are cruising. It's always good to be conservative with fresh water use on a boat. I got by nicely with heaters of that capacity for years. My 12 gallon tank is an extravagance that I would not replace if needed. 5-6 gallon is fine.
--
Jim Gregory
Sabre 402 #32
Milford CT
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Re: Keel Boat Replacement
Hi All,
How have you determine when it is time to replace the keel bolts?
Thanks, Manny Moreno SV Blue Wren - 34MkII
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Re: 402 head/shower drains
Tony,?
I’m not sure I understand your question. If the shower drain were to leak, it would go to the bilge and be limited to how long the shower is running…
is that what you mean?
?
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Thanks Jordan I'll pass my frame is good? Mike
Mike,?
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the Bimini is blue. But I would say that the value is really in the framework, and since the fabric was made for the framework, it likely would only work with the framework.?
let me know if you’d be interested. I just don’t want to see it go to a scrap yard if it can be used.?
cheers.
Jordan
S402-047
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Tim Dokken
David Gerhardt
Stephanie
Jordan
Tim Rivard
