If only one keel bolt needs replacing it is possible to add another keelbolt next to it without dropping the keel. A hole is drilled down into the keel from the bilge and another hole is drilled horizontally to intercept the vertical hole. Threaded rod is then used to make a keel bolt with a nut and washer on the bottom (in the horizontal hole) and nut washer on the bilge side of the rod. The horizontal hole is then filled with epoxy.
Dave
Second Star
S362 #113
Fair Haven, NY/Lake Ontario
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On Mar 21, 2025, at 1:12?PM, Michael Sterling via groups.io <sterling1mster@...> wrote:
Tim, this kind of damage would not br obvious without dropping the keel, am I correct?
Mike
s/v Ladylike?
88 38' MK II
Hi Manny,
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In many cases, it is very obvious.
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If you have serious corrosion present - a visual inspection will clearly identify any severe bolt/nut corrosion issues.
If a keel has mysterious leaking through the keel bolts - then the option is to drop the keel to inspect the bolts to determine whether or not the bolts are compromised.? They will show signs of hour glassing.
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Nut corrosion is common and can be corrected by removing the nuts and replacing with new nuts and washers.? This provides an opportunity to see more of the bolts and inspect for any hour glassing present.
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Stray voltage at a marina can be a real risk - If all looks good now, it's not a bad idea to add a galvanic isolator to the boat to help ensure some protection against stray voltage.
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Others may have more input on this.
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I added an example I found on line as an example of hour glassing.
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Tim R
38MKII in refit