Hi dave? ya it seems the Sr-150 was made from 1961? to 63? so designed just before polarized outlets were required. I have used GFCIs for years especially for power tools and especially outdoors or in the basement. Once I thought a GFCI on an “extension cord ”? was tripping with a kettle as a load and thought the GFCI was bad, so I plugged the kettle directly into the wall and it blew a big hole in the enamel of the stove.? The wire in the kettle was running along the bottom and had melted the insulation. Ohh I recall in 1966 we used lots of cheaters in the plant when all the [new] scopes suddenly came with 3 prong plugs, and the plant was old. ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Dave Jordan via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2024 10:35 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [HallicraftersRadios] SR-150 PWR Supply? Haha, I wondered about both and not worried about it!?I hate GFIs and all the other?rip-offs EATON?and HomeDespot have devised to extract my money from my pocket.? I'm trying to adapt to having pink cerromax in the ham shack! Ungrounded two-prong outlets are typically only found in older homes.?Since 1962, the National Electric Code (NEC) has prohibited them in new construction?to minimize the risk of electric shock and electrical equipment damage.? I'd bet Hallicrafters had the design for the SR-150 on the drawing board long before 1962.? -- don??? va3drl
|
Haha, I wondered about both and not worried about it!?I hate GFIs and all the other?rip-offs EATON?and HomeDespot have devised to extract my money from my pocket.? I'm trying to adapt to having pink cerromax in the ham shack! ? Ungrounded two-prong outlets are typically only found in older homes.?Since 1962, the National Electric Code (NEC) has prohibited them in new construction?to minimize the risk of electric shock and electrical equipment damage.?
I'd bet Hallicrafters had the design for the SR-150 on the drawing board long before 1962.?
Best, dave wa3gin
On Tue, Dec 31, 2024 at 9:56?PM don Root via <drootofallevil= [email protected]> wrote: Well Dave. if in 1963 you had? one slot smaller than the other, you were ahead of the game; the house I am in [1956] was all non polarized, except for the Garage, washing machine and outdoor outlets. ? The drawing indicates nothing about any polarity for the PS 150.? if I were putting a new 2 wire polarized plug ?and cord and on one, ?the hot would go to the fuse as you mentioned ?. ? of course the chassis/cabinet will tend to float at ?some ?midway voltage due to the ?two 1400 volt line caps connect to ground also, just as before ? I would have a little dilemma ?if I were putting a ?new 3 wire ?plug ?and cord on one, as where would the ground wire go? Other than the chasses? But then it would connect? Neutral to ground, and that would defeat the intent of the NEC code ?and GFCI on that circuit.? ? ? enddd ? Ok, but for me during my ham years starting in 1963 the smaller of the two socket openings was always hot. The smooth side of the cord was always hot as well.? Funny how time seems to change things…but those standards remain the same even today.?
--
don??? va3drl
|
Well Dave. if in 1963 you had? one slot smaller than the other, you were ahead of the game; the house I am in [1956] was all non polarized, except for the Garage, washing machine and outdoor outlets. ? The drawing indicates nothing about any polarity for the PS 150.? if I were putting a new 2 wire polarized plug ?and cord and on one, ?the hot would go to the fuse as you mentioned ?. ? of course the chassis/cabinet will tend to float at ?some ?midway voltage due to the ?two 1400 volt line caps connect to ground also, just as before ? I would have a little dilemma ?if I were putting a ?new 3 wire ?plug ?and cord on one, as where would the ground wire go? Other than the chasses? But then it would connect? Neutral to ground, and that would defeat the intent of the NEC code ?and GFCI on that circuit.? ? ? enddd
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Dave Jordan via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2024 8:14 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [HallicraftersRadios] SR-150 PWR Supply? Ok, but for me during my ham years starting in 1963 the smaller of the two socket openings was always hot. The smooth side of the cord was always hot as well.? Funny how time seems to change things…but those standards remain the same even today.? -- don??? va3drl
|
Ok, but for me during my ham years starting in 1963 the smaller of the two socket openings was always hot. The smooth side of the cord was always hot as well.?
Funny how time seems to change things…but those standards remain the same even today.?
Happy New Year Dave Wa3gin
On Tue, Dec 31, 2024 at 8:04?PM don Root via <drootofallevil= [email protected]> wrote: Dave,? ya… 4 more hours and the year is Gone. ? Back when this stuff was made,? the identity of hot and neutral should have made it to the back of the outlet but there was no such identity at the front so the idea of hot and neutral? did not make it into a radio or anything? using a normal outlet.? Once you/we ?modify the cord and Outlet to be polarized we have a new situation so a fuse can be put in the “hot”? wire. etc ? ? ? Hi Folks, Happy New Year, Replacing a garbage 18 gauge AC cord that someone installed in the power supply.? I see the guy wired the neutral side to the fuse. I always thought the hot side went to the fuse, just like in the breaker panel.? In a 110 VAC line,?the "hot" wire should always be connected to the fuse in a device, not the neutral wire;?meaning the fuse should be placed on the side of the line carrying the live current.? Placing the fuse on the hot wire ensures that when a fault occurs and the fuse blows, the appliance is completely de-energized, preventing potential shock hazards if someone touches the device while it's faulty.
--
don??? va3drl
|
Dave,? ya… 4 more hours and the year is Gone. ? Back when this stuff was made,? the identity of hot and neutral should have made it to the back of the outlet but there was no such identity at the front so the idea of hot and neutral? did not make it into a radio or anything? using a normal outlet.? Once you/we ?modify the cord and Outlet to be polarized we have a new situation so a fuse can be put in the “hot”? wire. etc ?
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From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Dave Jordan via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2024 5:49 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [HallicraftersRadios] SR-150 PWR Supply? ? Hi Folks, Happy New Year, Replacing a garbage 18 gauge AC cord that someone installed in the power supply.? I see the guy wired the neutral side to the fuse. I always thought the hot side went to the fuse, just like in the breaker panel.? In a 110 VAC line,?the "hot" wire should always be connected to the fuse in a device, not the neutral wire;?meaning the fuse should be placed on the side of the line carrying the live current.? Placing the fuse on the hot wire ensures that when a fault occurs and the fuse blows, the appliance is completely de-energized, preventing potential shock hazards if someone touches the device while it's faulty. -- don??? va3drl
|
Many radios back in the day were wired this way. ? I always change them over to a 3-wire line cord, fuse in the line side as well as the line going to the on/off switch. Any capacitors on the line or neutral get replaced with AC rated line / neutral caps ? Tom W3TA ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Dave Jordan via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2024 5:49 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [HallicraftersRadios] SR-150 PWR Supply? ? Hi Folks, Happy New Year, Replacing a garbage 18 gauge AC cord that someone installed in the power supply.? I see the guy wired the neutral side to the fuse. I always thought the hot side went to the fuse, just like in the breaker panel.? In a 110 VAC line,?the "hot" wire should always be connected to the fuse in a device, not the neutral wire;?meaning the fuse should be placed on the side of the line carrying the live current.? Placing the fuse on the hot wire ensures that when a fault occurs and the fuse blows, the appliance is completely de-energized, preventing potential shock hazards if someone touches the device while it's faulty.
|
Hi Folks, Happy New Year,
Replacing a garbage 18 gauge AC cord that someone installed in the power supply.? I see the guy wired the neutral side to the fuse. I always thought the hot side went to the fuse, just like in the breaker panel.?
In a 110 VAC line,?the "hot" wire should always be connected to the fuse in a device, not the neutral wire;?meaning the fuse should be placed on the side of the line carrying the live current. ?Safety: Placing the fuse on the hot wire ensures that when a fault occurs and the fuse blows, the appliance is completely de-energized, preventing potential shock hazards if someone touches the device while it's faulty.
Thoughts Welcome, dave wa3gin
|
If the neutral side of the line is directly connected to the chassis and the hot side is now connected to the ON/OFF switch, what is to be done if the AC hum or other noise picked up from the AC line is now worse?? The idea behind the original wiring was to keep the high side of the AC line away from the high impedance and gain of the audio amplifier circuit since the ON/OFF switch is located on the volume control.
I do not believe that the NEC controls how a manufacturer connects to the AC line, that is the responsibility of the Underwriters Laboratory.? At the time the AA5s were made, they received the U/L sticker.? If one is concerned about a shock hazard form an AA5 radio, one can always connect it to a GFCI outlet.? It will trip when the current imbalance between the hot and neutral is greater then 15 mA.
My workshop is in the basement.? All of the outlets in the basement are GFCI protected because of the concrete floor. HNY,? Jim
Logic: Method used to arrive at the wrong conclusion, with confidence.? Murphy
I should have added that changing to a polarized plug requires re-wiring
the on/off switch. Not needed if the chassis passes the "hot" test. See
On 12/30/2024 9:17 AM, Michael McCarthy, W1NR via groups.io wrote: Value is not critical, but voltage rating needs attention. I would use a
250v A.C. rated disc ceramic, or else one with a rating greater than
1000v D.C. I would also check (or replace) the resistor R22 and
capacitor C24 as these have probably aged as well.
Next, be sure it has a polarized plug with hot going to the switch. Even
though it is not considered a "hot chassis" radio, hot side should be
switched for maximum safety.
--
73 de Mike, W1NR
THAT was the equation. EXISTENCE!... SURVIVAL... must cancel out...
programming!
- Ruk -
|
I should have added that changing to a polarized plug requires re-wiring
the on/off switch. Not needed if the chassis passes the "hot" test. See
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On 12/30/2024 9:17 AM, Michael McCarthy, W1NR via groups.io wrote: Value is not critical, but voltage rating needs attention. I would use a
250v A.C. rated disc ceramic, or else one with a rating greater than
1000v D.C. I would also check (or replace) the resistor R22 and
capacitor C24 as these have probably aged as well.
Next, be sure it has a polarized plug with hot going to the switch. Even
though it is not considered a "hot chassis" radio, hot side should be
switched for maximum safety.
--
73 de Mike, W1NR
THAT was the equation. EXISTENCE!... SURVIVAL... must cancel out...
programming!
- Ruk -
|
Value is not critical, but voltage rating needs attention. I would use a
250v A.C. rated disc ceramic, or else one with a rating greater than
1000v D.C. I would also check (or replace) the resistor R22 and
capacitor C24 as these have probably aged as well.
Next, be sure it has a polarized plug with hot going to the switch. Even
though it is not considered a "hot chassis" radio, hot side should be
switched for maximum safety.
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On 12/30/2024 1:20 AM, Howard wrote: Hey guys, was just about to replace the power supply filter in my
S-38C.? opened it up and found a blown up bumblee capacitor.?? The cap
in question is C-27? a .02uF @600v? which goes from one side of the line
to the common ground ( NOT chassis ground).
My question is, can this be replaced with a .047 uF "safety" capacitor,
or is the value of .02uF critical?
Please let me know as I do want to keep the old beast running.
Thank you.
Howard
_._,_._,_
--
73 de Mike, W1NR
THAT was the equation. EXISTENCE!... SURVIVAL... must cancel out...
programming!
- Ruk -
|
The value is not critical. The .047 safety cap should be fine.
Hey guys, was just about to replace the power supply filter in my S-38C.? opened it up and found a blown up bumblee capacitor.?? The cap in question is C-27? a .02uF @600v? which goes from one side of the line to the common ground ( NOT chassis ground).
?
My question is, can this be replaced with a .047 uF "safety" capacitor, or is the value of .02uF critical?
?
Please let me know as I do want to keep the old beast running.
?
Thank you.
?
?
Howard
|
Hey guys, was just about to replace the power supply filter in my S-38C.? opened it up and found a blown up bumblee capacitor.?? The cap in question is C-27? a .02uF @600v? which goes from one side of the line to the common ground ( NOT chassis ground).
?
My question is, can this be replaced with a .047 uF "safety" capacitor, or is the value of .02uF critical?
?
Please let me know as I do want to keep the old beast running.
?
Thank you.
?
?
Howard
|
Re: 1Re: TinySA Ultra follow-up
The advantage of buying from a domestic reseller is that you have
a return avenue in the event of a problem.? You may or may not
need that of course.? But if you do, then you are able to speak to
someone who's native language is the same as yours, and the costs
for sending thing thing back for exchange by post are reasonable
and the paperwork things like HS codes and customs clearance, etc,
are absent.
For those reasons I tend to put these purchases into two
categories - if getting one that is partially inop or DOA would
result in disposal instead of wanting to remedy it, then I'll buy
from Aliexpress and save the money.? But if it's going to be
something I will rely on or that is too expensive to toss if it's
a problem, then I'll want to buy from a domestic seller.
Good luck!
73/jeff/ac0c
alpha-charlie-zero-charlie
On 12/29/2024 9:26 AM, jeffbauman via
groups.io wrote:
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So
is paying more gunna protect me any more?
?
Thomas,
no.?
?
But
I, for one, don't mind throwing a few extra bucks at a
purchase from a US-based brick & mortar seller.?
?
Sure
was nice to drive 10 minutes to Radio Shack for that switch,
transistor,? or relay I needed for my project.?
?
YMMV
?
73,
Jeff
W8KZW?
?
Boatanchors
since 1965
|
Re: 1Re: TinySA Ultra follow-up
Yupper…yes it was!?? TU! ? STAY SAFE AND STAY WELL! ? Respectfully,
Thomas K. Lanieri, NU2W NJ DOH Licensed EMT;? PHTLS, AMLS, PHPEC Millenium EMS ARC N.E. BioMedical Services ARC N.E. Disaster Cycle Services ?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of jeffbauman via groups.io Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2024 10:26 AM To: [email protected]Subject: [HallicraftersRadios] 1Re: TinySA Ultra follow-up ? So is paying more gunna protect me any more? But I, for one, don't mind throwing a few extra bucks at a purchase from a US-based brick & mortar seller.? Sure was nice to drive 10 minutes to Radio Shack for that switch, transistor,? or relay I needed for my project.?
|
Re: SX-117 HT-44 and PS-150-120 for sale
I went ahead and recapped the power supply anyway. ?I had forgot I orders the caps for it a while back.?
|
1Re: TinySA Ultra follow-up
So is paying more gunna protect me any more?
?
Thomas, no.?
?
But I, for one, don't mind throwing a few extra bucks at a purchase from a US-based brick & mortar seller.?
?
Sure was nice to drive 10 minutes to Radio Shack for that switch, transistor,? or relay I needed for my project.?
?
YMMV
?
73,
Jeff
W8KZW?
?
Boatanchors since 1965
|
Re: TinySA Ultra follow-up
Ah, sorry for any misinterpretation... My Ultra is still working fine.? I haven't updated the firmware lately, but when I was teaching electronics at MSU, I bought 20 of the original TinySA's for student use. All from R&L, they also performed flawlessly... I used them for both, RF generation, and in put signal analysis.? The Ulta worked best for me as the display is larger! But, they both are excellent for AM signal 3 dB BW assessment and signal quality.? Nice for detecting stray RF and EMI/RFI too with a directional antenna. 73 Steve W8tow?
On Sun, Dec 29, 2024, 6:02?AM Thomas K. Lanieri via <oemeoc88= [email protected]> wrote: Steve Then what happened?? Is it still in operation/functioning? ? STAY SAFE AND STAY WELL! ? Respectfully,
Thomas K. Lanieri, NU2W NJ DOH Licensed EMT;? PHTLS, AMLS, PHPEC Millenium EMS ARC N.E. BioMedical Services ARC N.E. Disaster Cycle Services ? ? I bought one from R&L ...
It's worked perfectly for the year! ? From the TinySA official website. Where to buy. I guess the key is who made it. It seems that Zeenko is the authentic manufacturer. Safe places to buy an original tinySA - . Other sellers on Alibaba may sell bad clones. For other payment methods, such as Paypal, hit the "chat now" button and Maggie from the Zeenko store will help you. At the right top of the browser window there should be "my messages" where you will have a better overview of your messages
- . This is the factory store, guaranteed to deliver genuine tinySA. Other sellers on aliexpress may sell bad clones. To be sure you get a good product only buy from Zeenko store on AliExpress.
- ?in the USA. When the tinySA is listed as "out of stock" R&L can still take you order and only charge your credit card when the product is available again (which should be in a few weeks).
- ?in Europe
- ?in Japan
- ?in China
- ?in China
- ?in the UK.
- ?in SPAIN
- ?in Central and Eastern Europe
- Aursinc on Amazon
- SeeSii store on Amazon
A majority of acceptance is not proof of correctness.
|
Re: TinySA Ultra follow-up
Hi ya,? I buy all my stuff from Aliexpress BUT I check the seller really carefully and buy from the original manufacturer where possible.? Paying more means zero, zilch, nothing in my experience.? I bought an ATU 1000 auto atu kit and researched the seller.? So good I bought another.? Both handle 1kw auto tune simply by speaking into the mike.? Anyway that is my experience so do what Walt says I think.? Cheers VK5LB?
On Sun, 29 Dec 2024 at 13:55, Thomas K. Lanieri via groups.io <oemeoc88@...> wrote: HEY ALL. ? TU all for sharing this info…This clone stuff gives me hives! So RL want 140 + 14 s/h Zeenko and Alliexpress want 117 no s/h Zeenko and ALLIBABA is 110 no s/h ? A reasonable difference.?? So is paying more gunna protect me any more? ALL advice appreciated!?? TU!?? ? ? STAY SAFE AND STAY WELL! ? Respectfully,
Thomas K. Lanieri, NU2W NJ DOH Licensed EMT;? PHTLS, AMLS, PHPEC Millenium EMS ARC N.E. BioMedical Services ARC N.E. Disaster Cycle Services ? ? From the TinySA official website. Where to buy. I guess the key is who made it. It seems that Zeenko is the authentic manufacturer. Safe places to buy an original tinySA - . Other sellers on Alibaba may sell bad clones. For other payment methods, such as Paypal, hit the "chat now" button and Maggie from the Zeenko store will help you. At the right top of the browser window there should be "my messages" where you will have a better overview of your messages
- . This is the factory store, guaranteed to deliver genuine tinySA. Other sellers on aliexpress may sell bad clones. To be sure you get a good product only buy from Zeenko store on AliExpress.
- ?in the USA. When the tinySA is listed as "out of stock" R&L can still take you order and only charge your credit card when the product is available again (which should be in a few weeks).
- ?in Europe
- ?in Japan
- ?in China
- ?in China
- ?in the UK.
- ?in SPAIN
- ?in Central and Eastern Europe
- Aursinc on Amazon
- SeeSii store on Amazon
A majority of acceptance is not proof of correctness.
|
Re: TinySA Ultra follow-up
HEY ALL. ? TU all for sharing this info…This clone stuff gives me hives! So RL want 140 + 14 s/h Zeenko and Alliexpress want 117 no s/h Zeenko and ALLIBABA is 110 no s/h ? A reasonable difference.?? So is paying more gunna protect me any more? ALL advice appreciated!?? TU!?? ? ? STAY SAFE AND STAY WELL! ? Respectfully,
Thomas K. Lanieri, NU2W NJ DOH Licensed EMT;? PHTLS, AMLS, PHPEC Millenium EMS ARC N.E. BioMedical Services ARC N.E. Disaster Cycle Services ?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of waltcates via groups.io Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2024 11:25 AM To: HALLI IO GROUP < [email protected]> Subject: [HallicraftersRadios] TinySA Ultra follow-up ? From the TinySA official website. Where to buy. I guess the key is who made it. It seems that Zeenko is the authentic manufacturer. Safe places to buy an original tinySA - . Other sellers on Alibaba may sell bad clones. For other payment methods, such as Paypal, hit the "chat now" button and Maggie from the Zeenko store will help you. At the right top of the browser window there should be "my messages" where you will have a better overview of your messages
- . This is the factory store, guaranteed to deliver genuine tinySA. Other sellers on aliexpress may sell bad clones. To be sure you get a good product only buy from Zeenko store on AliExpress.
- ?in the USA. When the tinySA is listed as "out of stock" R&L can still take you order and only charge your credit card when the product is available again (which should be in a few weeks).
- ?in Europe
- ?in Japan
- ?in China
- ?in China
- ?in the UK.
- ?in SPAIN
- ?in Central and Eastern Europe
- Aursinc on Amazon
- SeeSii store on Amazon
A majority of acceptance is not proof of correctness.
|
Re: TinySA Ultra follow-up
Currently in stock at R&L
On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 11:25 AM, waltcates via groups.io <cateswa@...> wrote:
From the TinySA official website. Where to buy. I guess the key is who made it. It seems that Zeenko is the authentic manufacturer.
Safe places to buy an original tinySA
-
. Other sellers on Alibaba may
sell bad clones. For other payment methods, such as Paypal, hit the "chat now" button and Maggie from the Zeenko store will help you. At the right top of the browser window there should be "my messages" where you will have a better overview of your messages
-
. This is the factory store, guaranteed to deliver genuine tinySA. Other sellers
on aliexpress may sell bad clones. To be sure you get a good product only buy from Zeenko store on AliExpress.
-
?in the USA. When the tinySA is listed
as "out of stock" R&L can still take you order and only charge your credit card when the product is available again (which should be in a few weeks).
-
?in Europe
-
?in Japan
-
?in China
-
?in China
-
?in the UK.
-
?in SPAIN
-
?in Central and Eastern
Europe
-
Aursinc on Amazon
-
SeeSii store on Amazon
Walt Cates, WD0GOF
?
A majority of acceptance is not proof of correctness.
|
don Root
Dave Jordan
Jim Whartenby
Thomas K. Lanieri
Adam N0ZIB
Steve Marquie
Dean PROBERT