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What is the best AC protector/stabilator for a 7x14 lathe? There are many types: one for your computer, one for your fridge. Full AC-DC-AC is maybe a littlebit luxury? /johannes

Surge protectors aren't all equal . They said on the news just now the fire was started at one of the surge protectors for a 3D printer I believe . https://abc7news.com/fire-damages-san-francisco-nonprofit-humanmade-supporting-up-and-coming-inventors-and-entrepreneurs/14767783/

Did any see northern light running the there mini lathe. Dave

Maybe this is wrong group, however, a lot of clever members: I have to make a lot of 1 mm holes in 2 mm steel rods. I have made a guide, and as you see, a lot of testing guide hole to compensate for different drilling twisting forces. My questions: 1) what is the best start method to make a start mark? 2) when I am drilling: a) constant soft pressure? b) pumping up/down to release spoon (My steel are only making dust) Johannes Lavoll.

Like many of us here, I have made a few accessories for my mini-lathe and my micro-mill - stops, carriage clamps, indicator holders, things like that. I don't think I have ever copied an existing design, mostly because I don't have easy access to the large blocks of steel or aluminum that those designs often need. So, I figure out a design based on the raw materials that I have on-hand. In figuring out a design, I almost always make up a proof-of-concept model made out of wood. I don't have a huge scrap bin of steel, brass, and aluminum, but I do have plenty of hardwood, Baltic Birch plywood, and lots of woodworking tools. With the wood model, I figure out approximate dimensions, where to put holes and fasteners, will the accessory interfere with features of the lathe, etc. I'm not afraid to re-make wood parts that aren't quite right. Eventually, when I have the design worked out, I'll make a metal version. But in some cases, the wood model has been good enough for my needs. I used a wooden spindle crank for a number of years, and I still use a couple of wooden indicator holders (which have embedded rare earth magnets). I am the only one doing this?

Has anyone had one of the LMS 2" dial indicators apart? I got a used one for just a few dollars and it needs a little fixing. The needle is bent, but I can't get the front bezel off. Mike

Hi All, After putting it off for way too long; I'm finally getting around to upgrading my HF 93212 mini lathe with the LMS 5000 16" bed extension. I have the lathe torn down. Decided to play it safe and put the parts/screws in ziploc bags and label the bags with a sharpie so I won't forget what they are. Also checked off each step in the instructions as I disassembled the lathe. Any tips/advice before I start Reassembly? I did slip the carriage on out of curiosity to see how it fit. The front is fairly snug, but there's a noticeable amount of play in the rear. Stan

I picked up an old Mitutoyo magnetic indicator stand on ebay for a great price. Has a bit of very light corrosion that I think I can address pretty easily and even if I can't, it's still very functional as is. The one big issue was it wouldn't turn off completely. I have it partially apart. I think that issue was the limit screw needed adjustment. Aligning the magnet manually makes it work perfectly fine. So far so good. The last issue is the inside is full of heavy, sticky old grease. i have the knob removed and the insides are gunked up - I think someone squirted a bunch through the hole on top where the rod attaches, probably decades ago. I'm at the point where I was going to pull the magnet out so I can clean it off, clean the bore and lightly lube it before putting it back together. But when digging around trying to figure out how to get it apart, I found a lot of threads on machinist forums suggesting that pulling the magnet out would demagnetize it. Right now, it works pretty well when it's "on" other than the issues above, so I don't want to kill it. I"ve had newer indicator stands apart and pulled the magnets out with no issue, but magnets have come a long way. This is one of those older indicators where the knob is held in with a pressed ring, rather than the square plate with two screws under the label. I'm guessing early 70s but maybe older. The threads I read never really said if they just pulled the magnet out for a few minutes and then it was dead, or they left it out for a few days sitting on a metal table or something. You guys ever heard of or experienced this? I could clean it all out with solvent with the magnet still in there, but then I risk getting solvent all over the paint (it does soften slightly when wiped with acetone) and I probably won't get all the old grease out that way.

Monday night I was looking at the latest Home Shop Machinist and saw a cover story about someone making new dials for his Jet mill-drill so theyd look more like Bridgeport dials. (This involved designing a machine to engrave the new dials, designing another machine to resharpen carbide engraving tools to needle sharp points, etc. People in HSM often go overboard in cover articles, perhaps to get to be cover articles). I paid little attention to the modification story, but I was intrigued by the mill-drill itself. I have a Harbor Freight mini-mill (the one with the tiltable column) that I bought in 2017. It's given me good service and I love using it for drilling, but its low power and small capacity have sometimes been a trial. For example, when I was restoring my South Bend shaper, I had to make a new gib for the shaper ram out of phosphor bronze. The SB gib is a foot long, and that's the exact length of the table on the mini-mill. So milling the edges of the gib was a mess and cutting oil grooves in it was even worse. I had to keep unclamping the work and moving it on the table, because a one-foot table gives you much less then a foot of table TRAVEL, and a table as long as the work means you can't clamp it on both ends at the same time. The thing that saved me on that shaper gib job was that it works fine and will never be seen by human eyes until after I'm dead. But if that had been practically anything else, I would've has to scrap the part (probably several times), in metal that cost $100/square foot. Also, even on the lower speed setting, this mini-mill doesn’t have much power. But the mill-drill in that story had twice as long a table and more capacity in every area, plus a 2 HP motor. (With real American horses, not Chinese horses). So I looked on ebay to see what they sell for and discovered that the Grizzly equivalent is for sale right across the river in Brooklyn right now, for a used price similar to what I paid for my mini-mill in 2017. https://www.ebay.com/itm/404906221587?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=e0cbjckhsoi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=-_UhiONhSvy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY What do people think of this? I know there's criticism of round-columned mill-drills because the head can move from side to side when changing height but I could figure out ways around that, and I'd much rather have that problem than to try to make something more rigid or more powerful then it was designed to be. I was originally hesitant about the weight of the thing since I lived by myself and drive a VW GTI. But it looks like it can break down into pieces, and I could make several trips. I'm sick with a cold, so I'm not visiting the seller immediately, but probably will later this week. Mike Taglieri

Using time delay and thermal overload Will save a motor This is a thermal over load set at 200°F or 93°C. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NTXJBV3?starsLeft=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_apan_dp_CKZXS6DMD18C2C2MCQBB Time delay gives a over load for starting to 10 time rate ampage for very short time. Dave

Often a lot of swarf ends up on the floor in front of the lathe. In an effect to limit this I made some front shielding and widened the ways rubber cover. Other members may have such arrangements or better. Time will tell of its efficacy and if modifications or additions are needed. And if inconvenience is excessive. Short tapers can be cut with the shields in place. The lower shield does not limit carriage travel and in the vertical plane is very close to the factory chuck shield. Cutting tools can reach the chuck center before the shield can touch the chuck body. It is attached to the factory protractor which was removed when I set back the compound mounting point many years ago. The upper shield has a cutout for mounting tool holders. All tool holders (save the scissors knurler) can be attached to the tool post – even the large Diamond-brand diamond tool – the closest fit is the part tool holder. The image show an indexable tool (diamond-shape insert) in the QCTP – the shield touches the chuck guard with the tool tip 5/32” from the chuck’s inside jaws. The large Diamond-brand tool touches the jaws with ?” to spare. The upper shield is attached to the QCTP with double-sided tape. If I decide all is good and any mods made and I like the arrangement, I will see about drilling and tapping the QCTP for a proper attachment. -- Lone Tree, Colorado USA