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Like many of us here, I have made a few accessories for my mini-lathe and my micro-mill - stops, carriage clamps, indicator holders, things like that. I don't think I have ever copied an existing design, mostly because I don't have easy access to the large blocks of steel or aluminum that those designs often need. So, I figure out a design based on the raw materials that I have on-hand. In figuring out a design, I almost always make up a proof-of-concept model made out of wood. I don't have a huge scrap bin of steel, brass, and aluminum, but I do have plenty of hardwood, Baltic Birch plywood, and lots of woodworking tools. With the wood model, I figure out approximate dimensions, where to put holes and fasteners, will the accessory interfere with features of the lathe, etc. I'm not afraid to re-make wood parts that aren't quite right. Eventually, when I have the design worked out, I'll make a metal version. But in some cases, the wood model has been good enough for my needs. I used a wooden spindle crank for a number of years, and I still use a couple of wooden indicator holders (which have embedded rare earth magnets).
I am the only one doing this?
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What is your question?
Dave?
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I think some wooden knobs might be interesting.
Can't say I ever made any fixtures out of wood, although the wood mockup idea seems sound.
If I'm not using metal, I tend more towards plastic but I imagine the right specie of hardwood can be useful in some cases.
On Friday, April 19th, 2024 at 6:22 PM, Walter Wpg <walter.wpg@...> wrote:
Like many of us here, I have made a few accessories for my mini-lathe and my micro-mill - stops, carriage clamps, indicator holders, things like that. I don't think I have ever copied an existing design, mostly because I don't have easy access to the large blocks of steel or aluminum that those designs often need. So, I figure out a design based on the raw materials that I have on-hand. In figuring out a design, I almost always make up a proof-of-concept model made out of wood. I don't have a huge scrap bin of steel, brass, and aluminum, but I do have plenty of hardwood, Baltic Birch plywood, and lots of woodworking tools. With the wood model, I figure out approximate dimensions, where to put holes and fasteners, will the accessory interfere with features of the lathe, etc. I'm not afraid to re-make wood parts that aren't quite right. Eventually, when I have the design worked out, I'll make a metal version. But in some cases, the wood model has been good enough for my needs. I used a wooden spindle crank for a number of years, and I still use a couple of wooden indicator holders (which have embedded rare earth magnets).
I am the only one doing this?
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Substituting wood for metal can be very practical. I worked with a old machinist in my youth who told of the depression thrift days repairs of vehicle /tractor's? with wood replacement fenders, front axels etc.
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I suspect it is uncommon in the world of making accessories for machine tools.? But certainly not a bad idea.? What it is - is -prototyping.? When I was an Engineering Manager I promoted the notion "prototype early and often."? It is a fast way to find out if things make any sense or have any surprises.? It has another benefit that won't matter to the "lone wolf" home machinist.? And that is making it much easier for others to see the design who may not comprehend very well just looking at drawings.? (Of course, this might also include the design engineer!)
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Friday, April 19, 2024 at 03:22:51 PM PDT, Walter Wpg <walter.wpg@...> wrote:
Like many of us here, I have made a few accessories for my mini-lathe and my micro-mill - stops, carriage clamps, indicator holders, things like that. I don't think I have ever copied an existing design, mostly because I don't have easy access to the large blocks of steel or aluminum that those designs often need. So, I figure out a design based on the raw materials that I have on-hand. In figuring out a design, I almost always make up a proof-of-concept model made out of wood. I don't have a huge scrap bin of steel, brass, and aluminum, but I do have plenty of hardwood, Baltic Birch plywood, and lots of woodworking tools. With the wood model, I figure out approximate dimensions, where to put holes and fasteners, will the accessory interfere with features of the lathe, etc. I'm not afraid to re-make wood parts that aren't quite right. Eventually, when I have the design worked out, I'll make a metal version. But in some cases, the wood model has been good enough for my needs. I used a wooden spindle crank for a number of years, and I still use a couple of wooden indicator holders (which have embedded rare earth magnets).
I am the only one doing this?
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I have use metal lathes for a lot of wood work.
Foundry patterns,? replacement parts, electronics and list goes on. Does far better job than wool lathes.?
Dave?
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Charles Kinzer
3:50pm? ?
I suspect it is uncommon in the world of making accessories for machine tools. But certainly not a bad idea
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A number of Ted Hansen’s articles in his Minilathe book and articles in HSM use wood; like using plywood on the faceplate to screw down parts requiring odd bores, or as a protective measure when boring through-holes.?
At the beginning of his book he makes a fly cutter and uses it to make a new pulley for the lathe’s belt drive, and uses wood to set the height of the fly cutter stock before milling the slot, and later as part of a dividing apparatus to machine the pulley grooves, using the fly cutter he made.
For one-off fixtures or things that don’t require the strength of metal, it’s ideal since it can be shaped without nearly as much effort or time.
On Apr 19, 2024, at 3:40 PM, chrisser via groups.io <chris.kucia@...> wrote:
I think some wooden knobs might be interesting.
Can't say I ever made any fixtures out of wood, although the wood mockup idea seems sound.
If I'm not using metal, I tend more towards plastic but I imagine the right specie of hardwood can be useful in some cases.
On Friday, April 19th, 2024 at 6:22 PM, Walter Wpg <walter.wpg@...> wrote:
Like many of us here, I have made a few accessories for my mini-lathe and my micro-mill - stops, carriage clamps, indicator holders, things like that. I don't think I have ever copied an existing design, mostly because I don't have easy access to the large blocks of steel or aluminum that those designs often need. So, I figure out a design based on the raw materials that I have on-hand. In figuring out a design, I almost always make up a proof-of-concept model made out of wood. I don't have a huge scrap bin of steel, brass, and aluminum, but I do have plenty of hardwood, Baltic Birch plywood, and lots of woodworking tools. With the wood model, I figure out approximate dimensions, where to put holes and fasteners, will the accessory interfere with features of the lathe, etc. I'm not afraid to re-make wood parts that aren't quite right. Eventually, when I have the design worked out, I'll make a metal version. But in some cases, the wood model has been good enough for my needs. I used a wooden spindle crank for a number of years, and I still use a couple of wooden indicator holders (which have embedded rare earth magnets).
I am the only one doing this?
--?
Bruce Johnson
The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.
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"I am the only one doing this?"
Nope, I've done it many times. With a new, experimental idea, you can't be sure it'll work at all until you make a prototype and try it.? Might as well make that prototype out of plentiful and inexpensive material.
Mike Taglieri?
Like many of us here, I have made a few accessories for my mini-lathe and my micro-mill - stops, carriage clamps, indicator holders, things like that. I don't think I have ever copied an existing design, mostly because I don't have easy access to the large blocks of steel or aluminum that those designs often need. So, I figure out a design based on the raw materials that I have on-hand. In figuring out a design, I almost always make up a proof-of-concept model made out of wood. I don't have a huge scrap bin of steel, brass, and aluminum, but I do have plenty of hardwood, Baltic Birch plywood, and lots of woodworking tools. With the wood model, I figure out approximate dimensions, where to put holes and fasteners, will the accessory interfere with features of the lathe, etc. I'm not afraid to re-make wood parts that aren't quite right. Eventually, when I have the design worked out, I'll make a metal version. But in some cases, the wood model has been good enough for my needs. I used a wooden spindle crank for a number of years, and I still use a couple of wooden indicator holders (which have embedded rare earth magnets).
I am the only one doing this?
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I have used wood for packing on the mill table under plastic sheeting and thin metal that will be cut through on a single pass .
--
Lone Tree, Colorado? ?USA
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For those of you that have used your mini-lathes to turn projects from wood:? ?what precautions or preparations have you found useful, for keeping any wood sawdust or chips from making a mess of your oily lathe?
paul
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I have used the mini-lathe for wood from time to time.? And I really do NOT like to use a metal lathe for wood.
However, I make sure it is first wiped thoroughly, so it is as "dry" as possible.
After I'm done, I thoroughly clean and re-oil - immediately.
A really big difference between metal chips and wood chips (sawdust) is the wood contains MOISTURE.? And that can cause rust very quickly.
Here are couple of photos (taken before I removed the backsplash which I think is annoying and, in the way, and is something I don't think scales down well from larger machines).
This is making wood donuts which will later be cut as 90 degree trim pieces for a children's model railroad layout I built for a railroad museum.
After assembly to form one of the completed corners of the layout table.
 Here it is pressed into service to make wagon wheel hubs for a 1/10 scale stagecoach kit to improve on what was provided in the kit.? Note all the sawdust accumulating on the ways.? I didn't let it sit there long.
And being more powdery and almost lighter than air, it might get into places more easily than metal chips.? But I haven't done it enough to notice any issue.? If possible, or if nervous about that, I suppose entry points to places could be taped over or something temporarily.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 12:35:15 PM PDT, Paul Fox <pgf@...> wrote:
For those of you that have used your mini-lathes to turn projects from wood:? ?what precautions or preparations have you found useful, for keeping any wood sawdust or chips from making a mess of your oily lathe?
paul
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I think that if I just had to do small wood turning I would rather get a small wood turning machine rather than mess with all that cleaning and such to my metal lathe.
george
On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 01:26:36 PM PDT, Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...> wrote:
I have used the mini-lathe for wood from time to time.? And I really do NOT like to use a metal lathe for wood.
However, I make sure it is first wiped thoroughly, so it is as "dry" as possible.
After I'm done, I thoroughly clean and re-oil - immediately.
A really big difference between metal chips and wood chips (sawdust) is the wood contains MOISTURE.? And that can cause rust very quickly.
Here are couple of photos (taken before I removed the backsplash which I think is annoying and, in the way, and is something I don't think scales down well from larger machines).
This is making wood donuts which will later be cut as 90 degree trim pieces for a children's model railroad layout I built for a railroad museum.
After assembly to form one of the completed corners of the layout table.
![Inline image]( "Inline image") Here it is pressed into service to make wagon wheel hubs for a 1/10 scale stagecoach kit to improve on what was provided in the kit.? Note all the sawdust accumulating on the ways.? I didn't let it sit there long.
And being more powdery and almost lighter than air, it might get into places more easily than metal chips.? But I haven't done it enough to notice any issue.? If possible, or if nervous about that, I suppose entry points to places could be taped over or something temporarily.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 12:35:15 PM PDT, Paul Fox <pgf@...> wrote:
For those of you that have used your mini-lathes to turn projects from wood:? ?what precautions or preparations have you found useful, for keeping any wood sawdust or chips from making a mess of your oily lathe?
paul
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You could go the way of wood lathes, and set up a vacuum cleaner at the point of cutting to catch the majority of the sawdust :
You could probably cobble together something with a shop vac and cardboard for a one-off ?use.
But if you’re going to do this kind of thing more regularly, I’d just use my mini-lathe to make the metal parts for a wood lathe, which has vastly lower mechanical and precision requirements.
Pretty much all you need is a motor at one end, a tailstock at the other and some sort of tool rest that lets you put the tool cutting edge at center height.
On Apr 24, 2024, at 1:26 PM, Charles Kinzer via < ckinzer@...> wrote:
I have used the mini-lathe for wood from time to time.? And I really do NOT like to use a metal lathe for wood.
However, I make sure it is first wiped thoroughly, so it is as "dry" as possible.
After I'm done, I thoroughly clean and re-oil - immediately.
A really big difference between metal chips and wood chips (sawdust) is the wood contains MOISTURE.? And that can cause rust very quickly.
Here are couple of photos (taken before I removed the backsplash which I think is annoying and, in the way, and is something I don't think scales down well from larger machines).
This is making wood donuts which will later be cut as 90 degree trim pieces for a children's model railroad layout I built for a railroad museum.
<1713989626701blob.jpg>
After assembly to form one of the completed corners of the layout table.
<1713989777371blob.jpg>
Here it is pressed into service to make wagon wheel hubs for a 1/10 scale stagecoach kit to improve on what was provided in the kit.? Note all the sawdust accumulating on the ways.? I didn't let it sit there long.
And being more powdery and almost lighter than air, it might get into places more easily than metal chips.? But I haven't done it enough to notice any issue.? If possible, or if nervous about that, I suppose entry points to places could be taped over or something temporarily.
<1713989917650blob.jpg>
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 12:35:15 PM PDT, Paul Fox < pgf@...> wrote:
For those of you that have used your mini-lathes to turn projects from wood:? ?what precautions or preparations have you found useful, for keeping any wood sawdust or chips from making a mess of your oily lathe?
paul
--? Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai, PhD
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I actually HAVE a wood-turning lathe as part of my Shopsmith Mark V, but I've never used it. (I use the other tools on the Shopsmith all the time, as often for for cutting metal as for wood).
So when I need to turn small wooden things, I do it on the minilathe. I think the fear of water is overblown. First, you're probably not turning GREEN wood but seasoned wood, which doesn't have much water in it (although sawdust can attract water).
Second, what do you think the WD in WD-40 stands for?? People are always knocking WD-40 here, saying it's "a water-displacement compound, not a lubricant."? It actually is a light waxy lubricant dissolved in solvent, but they're completely right that water displacement is what the stuff was invented for.?
So spray your lathe with WD-40 before you start turning the wood, then wipe it down afterwards and you'll be fine.? Concerning the backsplash and water getting trapped there, I thought everybody already removed those and threw them away. That's certainly what I did. I don't think a backsplash is particularly useful on a tiny lathe with so little room between the backsplash and the lathe bed. But if you're fond of your backsplash spray those seams with WD-40 also.
Finally, drilling tiny holes and cutting wood are the only times I use the "high" range on the minilathe.? They recommend against doing a lot of wood turning on Myford, South Bend, and other lathes with bronze bearings, because the high speeds necessary for wood turning can overheat the bearings. But our lathes do perfectly fine at those speeds.
Mike Taglieri?
Like many of us here, I have made a few accessories for my mini-lathe and my micro-mill - stops, carriage clamps, indicator holders, things like that. I don't think I have ever copied an existing design, mostly because I don't have easy access to the large blocks of steel or aluminum that those designs often need. So, I figure out a design based on the raw materials that I have on-hand. In figuring out a design, I almost always make up a proof-of-concept model made out of wood. I don't have a huge scrap bin of steel, brass, and aluminum, but I do have plenty of hardwood, Baltic Birch plywood, and lots of woodworking tools. With the wood model, I figure out approximate dimensions, where to put holes and fasteners, will the accessory interfere with features of the lathe, etc. I'm not afraid to re-make wood parts that aren't quite right. Eventually, when I have the design worked out, I'll make a metal version. But in some cases, the wood model has been good enough for my needs. I used a wooden spindle crank for a number of years, and I still use a couple of wooden indicator holders (which have embedded rare earth magnets).
I am the only one doing this?
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ok? bruce?
he? kink is? ok?
I have? something? simular
but?
I? add a blower? in? front?
a 300 sfm? 2 barrel??
add? to? 2? 4 inch? tube? to? blow? in? the funnel? in? the back?
also? use it? for? stone? stulture? or? soap? stone?
jack 47 71
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You have to clean wood lathes, too.
Also, you would typically be using hand tools (which you also have to buy or make) on a tool rest where sometimes the metal working setup can be handy.
For something that is done rarely, or even just once.? Using what you having and just cleaning it is vastly more economical.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 01:51:19 PM PDT, gcvisalia@... <gcvisalia@...> wrote:
I think that if I just had to do small wood turning I would rather get a small wood turning machine rather than mess with all that cleaning and such to my metal lathe.
george
On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 01:26:36 PM PDT, Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...> wrote:
I have used the mini-lathe for wood from time to time.? And I really do NOT like to use a metal lathe for wood.
However, I make sure it is first wiped thoroughly, so it is as "dry" as possible.
After I'm done, I thoroughly clean and re-oil - immediately.
A really big difference between metal chips and wood chips (sawdust) is the wood contains MOISTURE.? And that can cause rust very quickly.
Here are couple of photos (taken before I removed the backsplash which I think is annoying and, in the way, and is something I don't think scales down well from larger machines).
This is making wood donuts which will later be cut as 90 degree trim pieces for a children's model railroad layout I built for a railroad museum.
After assembly to form one of the completed corners of the layout table.
![Inline image]( "Inline image") Here it is pressed into service to make wagon wheel hubs for a 1/10 scale stagecoach kit to improve on what was provided in the kit.? Note all the sawdust accumulating on the ways.? I didn't let it sit there long.
And being more powdery and almost lighter than air, it might get into places more easily than metal chips.? But I haven't done it enough to notice any issue.? If possible, or if nervous about that, I suppose entry points to places could be taped over or something temporarily.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 12:35:15 PM PDT, Paul Fox <pgf@...> wrote:
For those of you that have used your mini-lathes to turn projects from wood:? ?what precautions or preparations have you found useful, for keeping any wood sawdust or chips from making a mess of your oily lathe?
paul
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I did say small wood working. Should have been clearer. Ment small jobs more than once or twice. If just once, yea, I might use my lathe but boy I would really have to think about it. I think once you get into using the metal lathe for woodworking, one might find themselves doing more. Thus my personal thoughts on getting a small wood lathe rather than messing up my metal lathe.?
george
On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 05:51:45 PM PDT, Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...> wrote:
You have to clean wood lathes, too.
Also, you would typically be using hand tools (which you also have to buy or make) on a tool rest where sometimes the metal working setup can be handy.
For something that is done rarely, or even just once.? Using what you having and just cleaning it is vastly more economical.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 01:51:19 PM PDT, gcvisalia@... <gcvisalia@...> wrote:
I think that if I just had to do small wood turning I would rather get a small wood turning machine rather than mess with all that cleaning and such to my metal lathe.
george
On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 01:26:36 PM PDT, Charles Kinzer <ckinzer@...> wrote:
I have used the mini-lathe for wood from time to time.? And I really do NOT like to use a metal lathe for wood.
However, I make sure it is first wiped thoroughly, so it is as "dry" as possible.
After I'm done, I thoroughly clean and re-oil - immediately.
A really big difference between metal chips and wood chips (sawdust) is the wood contains MOISTURE.? And that can cause rust very quickly.
Here are couple of photos (taken before I removed the backsplash which I think is annoying and, in the way, and is something I don't think scales down well from larger machines).
This is making wood donuts which will later be cut as 90 degree trim pieces for a children's model railroad layout I built for a railroad museum.
After assembly to form one of the completed corners of the layout table.
![Inline image]( "Inline image") Here it is pressed into service to make wagon wheel hubs for a 1/10 scale stagecoach kit to improve on what was provided in the kit.? Note all the sawdust accumulating on the ways.? I didn't let it sit there long.
And being more powdery and almost lighter than air, it might get into places more easily than metal chips.? But I haven't done it enough to notice any issue.? If possible, or if nervous about that, I suppose entry points to places could be taped over or something temporarily.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 12:35:15 PM PDT, Paul Fox <pgf@...> wrote:
For those of you that have used your mini-lathes to turn projects from wood:? ?what precautions or preparations have you found useful, for keeping any wood sawdust or chips from making a mess of your oily lathe?
paul
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The reason I'm tempted to try some wood turning on the metal lathe is mainly because of precision.? I have a lot of trouble getting the length of a turned piece exact on my wood lathe, for instance, and getting identical profiles for two consecutive turnings (i.e., for two matching parts) is difficult for me as well.? (My wood lathe is also a Shopsmith, from the 1950s.? It works well.? It's me that has the problems.? :-)
Thanks for the observations.? Setting up a vacuum is an excellent idea.? And I might tape over some of the gaps in the chuck to keep sawdust out of there.
paul
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Get or make a copier for the Shopsmith
animal
On 4/25/24 7:46 AM, Paul Fox wrote:
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The reason I'm tempted to try some wood turning on the metal lathe
is mainly because of precision.? I have a lot of trouble getting
the length of a turned piece exact on my wood lathe, for instance,
and getting identical profiles for two consecutive turnings (i.e.,
for two matching parts) is difficult for me as well.? (My wood
lathe is also a Shopsmith, from the 1950s.? It works well.? It's
me that has the problems.? :-)
Thanks for the observations.? Setting up a vacuum is an excellent
idea.? And I might tape over some of the gaps in the chuck to keep
sawdust out of there.
paul
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Just a reminder:
Vacuum is good when you are turning wood, not metal.
Let the workshop look a little bit messy before vacuuming warm metal.
Johannes Lavoll.
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On 25 Apr 2024, at 08:46, Paul Fox <pgf@...> wrote:
Thanks for the observations. Setting up a vacuum is an excellent idea. And I might tape over some of the gaps in the chuck to keep sawdust out of there.
paul
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davesmith1800
chrisser
Johannes