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This may be a bit off topic, but I would guess it is applicable for someone wanting to re-motor their lathe. Have one of those 80s Taiwanese drill presses (Cummins Mack). Motor HP isn't listed but it's probably 1/2 or 3/4HP. 100vac single phase. Kind of sick of changing belts and thought one of those variable speed motor conversions would be helpful. I read a lot about how inexpensive these are, but I'm just not seeing it. I probably have 10 motors lying around the shop, all 110VAC single phase of various sizes and RPMs. Looked around for something in the 3/4-1hp range in a 3phase motor on Craigslist, Marketplace, ebay, surplus dealers - they don't seem cheap to me. To get something in the right RPM range (~1700) and standard voltage is at least $100 if not closer to $200. Add another $100-200 for a VFD and that's not my definition of inexpensive. New motors are double that. Read about using a treadmill motor, but word seems to have gotten around about those. They're in the same price range as the 3phase motors, although the controllers seem cheaper. Buying a couple of random treadmills to hope and get the right size motor that's useable seems like a big PITA and here in rural America, getting rid of the rest of the treadmill without the motor isn't exactly easy or cheap. Am I looking at the wrong things, or am I just a cheapskate? Maybe both. I've read it's possible to use a VFD on a single phase motor by bypassing the start capacitor using a start switch to energize it. Having trouble finding good info on what VFD to use. I don't really think I need the drill press to reverse, which is one of the downsides of single phase. Would this be a solution to use the original motor or one of the spares I have lying around?

"The Armstrong threading tool where it's kept sharp by honing the top as the tool wears." I recently got one of these threading tools also (though I think mine is Williams brand rather than Armstrong). It's a great idea: a disk with a 60° angle turned on the edge that you rotate as it wears down. You sharpen it only on top. The head is also canted at the correct angle for threading. I don't want to use a lantern tool post, but there's no reason this can't be clamped somehow onto the regular compound. Here are two photos taken from ebay. (This is not my tool, but looks similar). https://photos.app.goo.gl/KFszY3F1zroDi5A78 https://photos.app.goo.gl/F6zZQZku5PdpRU1N9 Mike Taglieri On Tue, Feb 13, 2024, 10:26 AM Ron K via groups.io <ron.kellis@...> wrote: It does! Thanks. I have two tools I'd like to try just for my own knowledge. The Armstrong threading tool where it's kept sharp by honing the top as the tool wears. An Armstrong goose neck parting tool with the anti-chatter notch. Too many "I'm a gunna." projects in the queue to make one like Mark did, but I've always been curious. Again, thanks! Ron

This what I am planning on doing . Instead of mill the carriage I am moving the not ?" and ?" back for a full 4" movement and a stop for auto feed cross slide later. Adding a ?" spacer for full stoke. Dave

I have used the 6206 bearing in motors and doors. The life for a seal 6206 ball bearing is 20,000 to 60,000 hours. In a mini lathe a lot shorter. Why is it so short? Dave

Here photo my one of my portable DRO'S This 5" [125mm] it clamps to bed and a mag base on the carriage using a ?" aluminum Bar. Works great for snap rings. Dave

looks like all chinese tools have a pin diameter: 10 (mm) they said 10 to 16 mm for the spindle diameter: on the grinder exactly how big is the grinder commen here in america I live in Quebec but all the tools are maybe still some sort of size 5\16 socket 47 71 canuval season quebec

Here drawing on on finger replacement and grade. Dave

Quite a while ago, I said the cogged pulleys of the timing belt of my Craftsman 6" disc/4" belt sander were worn out and I was going to replace them with steel pulleys. Too many other things going on in my life, so I put that job aside for months, but last weekend I finally got it done. Here's a picture of the new setup with the steel pulleys on the machine and the decrepit old plastic ones on the bench next to it. I originally said I was changing the ratio of these pulleys, and people here gave me several ideas about that. But then I discovered I ALREADY OWNED two suitable pulleys that I got years ago for another project and never used, so I used those for the sander instead. (I bought them long before I even owned this sander, but they turned out to be the same ratio as the old plastic ones!) In addition to replacing the pulleys, I rebuilt the mechanism and learned several things about the sander I never knew. I previously had problems with high vibration and the sanding belts not tracking right, but I didn’t understand why until I took the mechanism of the bottom drum apart. (That's the top pulley in this picture). There's supposed to be a retaining ring on each side of the drum to prevent side-to-side motion, but one of those was gone and the drum could move back and forth half an inch or more. I couldn't find a replacement because they're apparently metric and the local big-box stores didn't have those. (And I wasn't going to place an order to McMaster-Carr just to get two retaining rings that might not even turn out to be right). So I got rid of the retaining rings and held the drum in position with 2 pieces of scrap 1/2" copper water pipe on the shaft. (I have lots of this). One piece on each side of the drum, (cut by trial and error to the right length), eliminated the sideways motion nicely. The biggest job was boring the new pulleys to fit the shafts of the drum and the motor. As you can see in the photo, the motor pulley had to be bored almost to the point where the flange is gone. The pulley was designed to be held by threaded screws in that flange, but the flange was now so thin that those threads were gone. So instead I glued the pulley to the motor shaft with Loctite 660 retaining compound. This seems to be plenty strong enough to hold it (and if it ever fails I can just try something else). The other big change was completely my error. Previously, I thought the only thing tensioning the timing belt was the weight of the pivoting motor below. That struck me as a stupid setup, so I wanted to install an adjustable screw to hold the motor down. But while I was rebuilding the drum, I realized there already IS an adjustable screw to hold the motor down, located just where I was planning to put it. I never used it or noticed it before because I didn't have the owner's manual for this sander, which I bought used. So with the belt now at proper tension, the power transmits better and there's a lot less vibration, so maybe the original pulley ratio will turn out to be best after all. BTW, I removed a protective cover to get this picture. I also got rid of the 6" disc sander, which I've never used. Two feet away from this sander is my Shopsmith Mark V, which includes a variable-speed 6" or 12" disc sander and is much more useful. So I'll continue just using this machine as a 4" belt sander, for which it should work better that it did before. Mike Taglieri

Dear All, I realise this is both part Mini lathe and part wood lathe. But to me the metal lathe part is more important. Hence my question to you all. I have a couple of these old wooden clamps - probably antique. They are just like the metalwork ones we use, but much much larger. One has a severely damaged (external) threads. I would like to try(?) and cut the replacement long wooden thread on my 7 x 12. So, I bought a second hand thread chaser on eBay. It’s 6 TPI and according to the chart on the Little Machine Shop site - the gear set up is no problem on my imperial lathe. [JFI it’s Real Bull model purchased from Chester Machines (in the UK) some 20+ years ago. If that’s at all relevant?] The thread chaser cuts multiple threads at the same time and the tool (normally hand held I understand) needs to be held at ~ 90 degrees to the thread, unlike the usual angle for cutting one side of a metal thread. OR, if you are doing it by hand, do you angle the thread chaser so it cuts a series of slightly deeper threads. Thus the tool needs to be held in the tool post at a similar angle? Assuming I can sharpen it correctly and clamp it to the tool post, can anyone offer any suggestions or guidance? Do you cut it in multiple passes, in a similar way to a metal thread? I assume I’m going to have to make and use some sort of a travelling steady. My idea is to clamp it in the chuck and use a small freely rotating chuck at the tailstock end. I believe I can get a much better quality and accurate thread using the gears than trying to use it hand held - on a very long tool holder, the same as the ones on a wood lathe. I have to check but I think the wood for the screws is normally Beech, if that’s relevant? Thank you in anticipation. David of Abingdon(UK)

David and the rest of the group. I have not read very well the rules for the 7x12 group. Did it say what stuff we can put between head/tail stocks? Working with wood is funny. If you make more wood stuff than metal, shop a wood late. The dust can sometime be heavy. When I moved to another country as a pensioner, I had to take a decision: shall I work with wood or metal? I chose metal because of the dust. However, the wood working pleasure is still there. You can made very nice products that no one can find in the shop. Attached a picture of a gift I made for a new married couple that had every thing. A screw, 2 nuts and a not-square block with different colors and a box. The block symbolized the marriage, both nuts have to work tight the keep the marriage stable and the screw is the love. The box is a symbol for protection of the marriage so no one can interfere it, etc etc etc. I made a speech around it, and many assent their head. /Johannes May I therefore suggest, that we close down this topic, as I don’t want the group to drift(?) too far from metalworking. Although I am not deeply interested In some of subjects, I often always scan them and I am amazed at the detailed knowledge base available in this group (from anywhere in the world). Regards to All, David

Does anyone have a threading dial chart for 2.0 mm lead screw. I have gearing charts and for both metric and inch all the threads. But lathe I purchased did not come with threading dial for metric threads and plan to build one. Dave

I bought the 7x14 Vevor lathe with the 550w DC motor a will back. The motor doesn't have much power. I can stall it with my bare hands by grasping the 4" chuck. Is there a easy way to check out the motor to see if it is the problem. I have the motor out and sitting on the bench.

Here a drawing on blind threading I talked about in past thread. This good drawing. I have not used the 30° angle since 1970's. Dave