|
Dear All,
I realise this is both part Mini lathe and part wood lathe. But to me the metal lathe part is more important. Hence my question to you all.
I have a couple of these old wooden clamps - probably antique. They are just like the metalwork ones we use, but much much larger. One has a severely damaged (external) threads.
I would like to try(?) and cut the replacement long wooden thread on my 7 x 12. So, I bought a second hand thread chaser on eBay. It’s 6 TPI and according to the chart on the Little Machine Shop site - the gear set up is no problem on my imperial lathe.
[JFI it’s Real Bull model purchased from Chester Machines (in the UK) some 20+ years ago. If that’s at all relevant?]
The thread chaser cuts multiple threads at the same time and the tool (normally hand held I understand) needs to be held at ~ 90 degrees to the thread, unlike the usual angle for cutting one side of a metal thread. OR, if you are doing it by hand, do you angle the thread chaser so it cuts a series of slightly deeper threads. Thus the tool needs to be held in the tool post at a similar angle?
Assuming I can sharpen it correctly and clamp it to the tool post, can anyone offer any suggestions or guidance? Do you cut it in multiple passes, in a similar way to a metal thread?
I assume I’m going to have to make and use some sort of a travelling steady. My idea is to clamp it in the chuck and use a small freely rotating chuck at the tailstock end.
I believe I can get a much better quality and accurate thread using the gears than trying to use it hand held - on a very long tool holder, the same as the ones on a wood lathe. I have to check but I think the wood for the screws is normally Beech, if that’s relevant?
Thank you in anticipation.
David of Abingdon(UK)
|
I think my dad had one of these tools for making threaded. wood by hand. You can make accurate threads by hand if you make a jig. The key is that you but-joint the wood dowel to a threaded metal rod with threads of the desired pitch and put a nut on the metal rod. The nut and your tool are fixed to the bench with clamps. Of course you need to make about 100 passes to cut the threads.
Even 200 years ago I doubt anyone made these my hand and eye, you need some kind of jig.
I think maybe you’d need to try it by hand to see how the tool work and what angle is best
There is a person on another machine tool ist who is set up to mass produce these wood clamps using maple dowels and a CNC lathe
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Show quoted text
On Jan 15, 2024, at 11:39?PM, DAVID WILLIAMS via groups.io <d.i.williams@...> wrote:
Dear All,
I realise this is both part Mini lathe and part wood lathe. But to me the metal lathe part is more important. Hence my question to you all.
I have a couple of these old wooden clamps - probably antique. They are just like the metalwork ones we use, but much much larger. One has a severely damaged (external) threads.
I would like to try(?) and cut the replacement long wooden thread on my 7 x 12. So, I bought a second hand thread chaser on eBay. It’s 6 TPI and according to the chart on the Little Machine Shop site - the gear set up is no problem on my imperial lathe.
[JFI it’s Real Bull model purchased from Chester Machines (in the UK) some 20+ years ago. If that’s at all relevant?]
The thread chaser cuts multiple threads at the same time and the tool (normally hand held I understand) needs to be held at ~ 90 degrees to the thread, unlike the usual angle for cutting one side of a metal thread. OR, if you are doing it by hand, do you angle the thread chaser so it cuts a series of slightly deeper threads. Thus the tool needs to be held in the tool post at a similar angle?
Assuming I can sharpen it correctly and clamp it to the tool post, can anyone offer any suggestions or guidance? Do you cut it in multiple passes, in a similar way to a metal thread?
I assume I’m going to have to make and use some sort of a travelling steady. My idea is to clamp it in the chuck and use a small freely rotating chuck at the tailstock end.
I believe I can get a much better quality and accurate thread using the gears than trying to use it hand held - on a very long tool holder, the same as the ones on a wood lathe. I have to check but I think the wood for the screws is normally Beech, if that’s relevant?
Thank you in anticipation.
David of Abingdon(UK)
|
David,
External threads in wood are typically cut with a die made for that purpose. One clamps a dowel of the appropriate diameter in a vice or to the end of a workbench, and turns the die onto the dowel. A blade inside the die cuts the thread. One does not need a lathe, gears, or anything else but some muscle to cut threads on the outside of a dowel. I suggest you do a quick search on "cutting threads on the outside of wood" and watch a couple of YouTube videos. The mating threads on the inside of a piece of wood are cut with a tap. Usually the tap is steel, though for larger sizes it may be made of wood with steel blades.
You want to cut your threads in a hardwood such as maple as softwoods are generally too weak.
Hope this helps,
Jerry F.
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-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto: [email protected]] On Behalf Of DAVID WILLIAMS via groups.io Sent: Monday, January 15, 2024 11:39 PM To: [email protected]Subject: [7x12MiniLathe] New topic —- Cutting a thread for a very old wooden clamp. Dear All, I realise this is both part Mini lathe and part wood lathe. But to me the metal lathe part is more important. Hence my question to you all. I have a couple of these old wooden clamps - probably antique. They are just like the metalwork ones we use, but much much larger. One has a severely damaged (external) threads. I would like to try(?) and cut the replacement long wooden thread on my 7 x 12. So, I bought a second hand thread chaser on eBay. It’s 6 TPI and according to the chart on the Little Machine Shop site - the gear set up is no problem on my imperial lathe. [JFI it’s Real Bull model purchased from Chester Machines (in the UK) some 20+ years ago. If that’s at all relevant?] The thread chaser cuts multiple threads at the same time and the tool (normally hand held I understand) needs to be held at ~ 90 degrees to the thread, unlike the usual angle for cutting one side of a metal thread. OR, if you are doing it by hand, do you angle the thread chaser so it cuts a series of slightly deeper threads. Thus the tool needs to be held in the tool post at a similar angle? Assuming I can sharpen it correctly and clamp it to the tool post, can anyone offer any suggestions or guidance? Do you cut it in multiple passes, in a similar way to a metal thread? I assume I’m going to have to make and use some sort of a travelling steady. My idea is to clamp it in the chuck and use a small freely rotating chuck at the tailstock end. I believe I can get a much better quality and accurate thread using the gears than trying to use it hand held - on a very long tool holder, the same as the ones on a wood lathe. I have to check but I think the wood for the screws is normally Beech, if that’s relevant? Thank you in anticipation. David of Abingdon(UK)
|
DAVID WILLIAMS
Jan 15? ?
Dear All,
I realise this is both part Mini lathe and part wood lathe. But to me the metal lathe part is more important. Hence my question to you all.?
I have a couple of these old wooden clamps - probably antique. They are just like the metalwork ones we use, but much much larger. One has a severely damaged (external) threads
Best to use a good age wood for threading.? Dave?
|
On Jan 16, 2024, at 12:39 AM, DAVID WILLIAMS via < d.i.williams@...> wrote:
Dear All,
I realise this is both part Mini lathe and part wood lathe. But to me the metal lathe part is more important. Hence my question to you all.
I have a couple of these old wooden clamps - probably antique. They are just like the metalwork ones we use, but much much larger. One has a severely damaged (external) threads.
I would like to try(?) and cut the replacement long wooden thread on my 7 x 12. So, I bought a second hand thread chaser on eBay. It’s 6 TPI and according to the chart on the Little Machine Shop site - the gear set up is no problem on my imperial lathe.
[JFI it’s Real Bull model purchased from Chester Machines (in the UK) some 20+ years ago. If that’s at all relevant?]
You can chuck an appropriate dowel and single thread it to start, but make sure what thread it is it might be some form similar to an acme thread. You may well have to grind your own threading tool.
You can use a chaser tool, (they used to be used for cutting threads in metal, too) but be prepared to practice. In metal they were also often used freehand ;ike on a wood lathe.?
With the coarse thread, you may well be better off with a hand crank on the lathe, too.
The thread chaser cuts multiple threads at the same time and the tool (normally hand held I understand) needs to be held at ~ 90 degrees to the thread, unlike the usual angle for cutting one side of a metal thread. OR, if you are doing it by hand, do you angle the thread chaser so it cuts a series of slightly deeper threads. Thus the tool needs to be held in the tool post at a similar angle?
I’ll have to dig out my wood lathe books, but this article on chasing threads pn a wood lathe indicates not.
Assuming I can sharpen it correctly and clamp it to the tool post, can anyone offer any suggestions or guidance? Do you cut it in multiple passes, in a similar way to a metal thread?
I assume I’m going to have to make and use some sort of a travelling steady. My idea is to clamp it in the chuck and use a small freely rotating chuck at the tailstock end.
I believe I can get a much better quality and accurate thread using the gears than trying to use it hand held - on a very long tool holder, the same as the ones on a wood lathe. I have to check but I think the wood for the screws is normally Beech, if that’s relevant?
You want very hard wood Beech is one, or lignum vitae etc. the article above lists some suitable species.
Thank you in anticipation.
David of Abingdon(UK)
--? Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai, PhD
|
??? ??? Depending on the length of the thread & diameter of
the piece ya may be needin to use a Follower rest in the setup .
??? good luck , & remember pictures or it didn't happen
??? ??? animal
On 1/16/24 8:36 AM, Bruce J wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 16, 2024, at 12:39 AM, DAVID WILLIAMS via
<d.i.williams@...>
wrote:
Dear All,
I realise this is both part Mini lathe and part wood
lathe. But to me the metal lathe part is more important.
Hence my question to you all.
I have a couple of these old wooden clamps - probably
antique. They are just like the metalwork ones we use, but
much much larger. One has a severely damaged (external)
threads.
I would like to try(?) and cut the replacement long wooden
thread on my 7 x 12. So, I bought a second hand thread
chaser on eBay. It’s 6 TPI and according to the chart on
the Little Machine Shop site - the gear set up is no
problem on my imperial lathe.
[JFI it’s Real Bull model purchased from Chester Machines
(in the UK) some 20+ years ago. If that’s at all
relevant?]
You can chuck an appropriate dowel and single thread it to
start, but make sure what thread it is it might be some form
similar to an acme thread. You may well have to grind your own
threading tool.
You can use a chaser tool, (they used to be used for
cutting threads in metal, too) but be prepared to practice. In
metal they were also often used freehand ;ike on a wood
lathe.?
With the coarse thread, you may well be better off with a
hand crank on the lathe, too.
The thread chaser cuts multiple threads at the same time
and the tool (normally hand held I understand) needs to be
held at ~ 90 degrees to the thread, unlike the usual angle
for cutting one side of a metal thread. OR, if you are
doing it by hand, do you angle the thread chaser so it
cuts a series of slightly deeper threads. Thus the tool
needs to be held in the tool post at a similar angle?
I’ll have to dig out my wood lathe books, but this article
on chasing threads pn a wood lathe indicates not.
Assuming I can sharpen it correctly and clamp
it to the tool post, can anyone offer any suggestions or
guidance? Do you cut it in multiple passes, in a similar
way to a metal thread?
I assume I’m going to have to make and use some sort of a
travelling steady. My idea is to clamp it in the chuck and
use a small freely rotating chuck at the tailstock end.
I believe I can get a much better quality and accurate
thread using the gears than trying to use it hand held -
on a very long tool holder, the same as the ones on a wood
lathe. I have to check but I think the wood for the screws
is normally Beech, if that’s relevant?
You want very hard wood Beech is one, or lignum vitae etc. the
article above lists some suitable species.
Thank you in anticipation.
David of Abingdon(UK)
--?
Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai,
PhD
|
A question arises "How precise do wooden threads need to be?" These are wooden Jogenson clamps?? ?Bill
On Tue, Jan 16, 2024 at 12:17?PM mike allen < animal@...> wrote:
??? ??? Depending on the length of the thread & diameter of
the piece ya may be needin to use a Follower rest in the setup .
??? good luck , & remember pictures or it didn't happen
??? ??? animal
On 1/16/24 8:36 AM, Bruce J wrote:
On Jan 16, 2024, at 12:39 AM, DAVID WILLIAMS via
<d.i.williams@...>
wrote:
Dear All,
I realise this is both part Mini lathe and part wood
lathe. But to me the metal lathe part is more important.
Hence my question to you all.
I have a couple of these old wooden clamps - probably
antique. They are just like the metalwork ones we use, but
much much larger. One has a severely damaged (external)
threads.
I would like to try(?) and cut the replacement long wooden
thread on my 7 x 12. So, I bought a second hand thread
chaser on eBay. It’s 6 TPI and according to the chart on
the Little Machine Shop site - the gear set up is no
problem on my imperial lathe.
[JFI it’s Real Bull model purchased from Chester Machines
(in the UK) some 20+ years ago. If that’s at all
relevant?]
You can chuck an appropriate dowel and single thread it to
start, but make sure what thread it is it might be some form
similar to an acme thread. You may well have to grind your own
threading tool.
You can use a chaser tool, (they used to be used for
cutting threads in metal, too) but be prepared to practice. In
metal they were also often used freehand ;ike on a wood
lathe.?
With the coarse thread, you may well be better off with a
hand crank on the lathe, too.
The thread chaser cuts multiple threads at the same time
and the tool (normally hand held I understand) needs to be
held at ~ 90 degrees to the thread, unlike the usual angle
for cutting one side of a metal thread. OR, if you are
doing it by hand, do you angle the thread chaser so it
cuts a series of slightly deeper threads. Thus the tool
needs to be held in the tool post at a similar angle?
I’ll have to dig out my wood lathe books, but this article
on chasing threads pn a wood lathe indicates not.
Assuming I can sharpen it correctly and clamp
it to the tool post, can anyone offer any suggestions or
guidance? Do you cut it in multiple passes, in a similar
way to a metal thread?
I assume I’m going to have to make and use some sort of a
travelling steady. My idea is to clamp it in the chuck and
use a small freely rotating chuck at the tailstock end.
I believe I can get a much better quality and accurate
thread using the gears than trying to use it hand held -
on a very long tool holder, the same as the ones on a wood
lathe. I have to check but I think the wood for the screws
is normally Beech, if that’s relevant?
You want very hard wood Beech is one, or lignum vitae etc. the
article above lists some suitable species.
Thank you in anticipation.
David of Abingdon(UK)
--?
Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai,
PhD
|
I don't have any personal experience, but I would think you'd want them to be a little on the loose side.? Besides dimensional changes due to temperature, you also have dimensional changes due to ambient humidity (or lack thereof).
On Tuesday, January 16th, 2024 at 3:16 PM, Bill Williams <BWMSBLDR1@...> wrote:
A question arises "How precise do wooden threads need to be?" These are wooden Jogenson clamps? Bill
On Tue, Jan 16, 2024 at 12:17?PM mike allen < animal@...> wrote:
Depending on the length of the thread & diameter of
the piece ya may be needin to use a Follower rest in the setup .
good luck , & remember pictures or it didn't happen
animal
On 1/16/24 8:36 AM, Bruce J wrote:
On Jan 16, 2024, at 12:39 AM, DAVID WILLIAMS via
<d.i.williams@...>
wrote:
Dear All,
I realise this is both part Mini lathe and part wood
lathe. But to me the metal lathe part is more important.
Hence my question to you all.
I have a couple of these old wooden clamps - probably
antique. They are just like the metalwork ones we use, but
much much larger. One has a severely damaged (external)
threads.
I would like to try(?) and cut the replacement long wooden
thread on my 7 x 12. So, I bought a second hand thread
chaser on eBay. It’s 6 TPI and according to the chart on
the Little Machine Shop site - the gear set up is no
problem on my imperial lathe.
[JFI it’s Real Bull model purchased from Chester Machines
(in the UK) some 20+ years ago. If that’s at all
relevant?]
You can chuck an appropriate dowel and single thread it to
start, but make sure what thread it is it might be some form
similar to an acme thread. You may well have to grind your own
threading tool.
You can use a chaser tool, (they used to be used for
cutting threads in metal, too) but be prepared to practice. In
metal they were also often used freehand ;ike on a wood
lathe.
With the coarse thread, you may well be better off with a
hand crank on the lathe, too.
The thread chaser cuts multiple threads at the same time
and the tool (normally hand held I understand) needs to be
held at ~ 90 degrees to the thread, unlike the usual angle
for cutting one side of a metal thread. OR, if you are
doing it by hand, do you angle the thread chaser so it
cuts a series of slightly deeper threads. Thus the tool
needs to be held in the tool post at a similar angle?
I’ll have to dig out my wood lathe books, but this article
on chasing threads pn a wood lathe indicates not.
Assuming I can sharpen it correctly and clamp
it to the tool post, can anyone offer any suggestions or
guidance? Do you cut it in multiple passes, in a similar
way to a metal thread?
I assume I’m going to have to make and use some sort of a
travelling steady. My idea is to clamp it in the chuck and
use a small freely rotating chuck at the tailstock end.
I believe I can get a much better quality and accurate
thread using the gears than trying to use it hand held -
on a very long tool holder, the same as the ones on a wood
lathe. I have to check but I think the wood for the screws
is normally Beech, if that’s relevant?
You want very hard wood Beech is one, or lignum vitae etc. the
article above lists some suitable species.
Thank you in anticipation.
David of Abingdon(UK)
--
Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai,
PhD
|
"You can chuck an appropriate dowel and single thread it to start, but make sure what thread it is it might be some form similar to an acme thread. You may well have to grind your own threading tool."
?For wood, I wouldn't bother. Make the thread to the correct depth using a very sharp regular threading tool, with a tailstock center on the right.
Then use a triangular file to turn the thread into an Acme-like thread. (There's probably at least one part of your original thread that isn't ruined, so you can use that as a pattern for what you're trying to make).
On Jan 16, 2024, at 12:39 AM, DAVID WILLIAMS via < d.i.williams@...> wrote:
Dear All,
I realise this is both part Mini lathe and part wood lathe. But to me the metal lathe part is more important. Hence my question to you all.
I have a couple of these old wooden clamps - probably antique. They are just like the metalwork ones we use, but much much larger. One has a severely damaged (external) threads.
I would like to try(?) and cut the replacement long wooden thread on my 7 x 12. So, I bought a second hand thread chaser on eBay. It’s 6 TPI and according to the chart on the Little Machine Shop site - the gear set up is no problem on my imperial lathe.
[JFI it’s Real Bull model purchased from Chester Machines (in the UK) some 20+ years ago. If that’s at all relevant?]
You can chuck an appropriate dowel and single thread it to start, but make sure what thread it is it might be some form similar to an acme thread. You may well have to grind your own threading tool.
You can use a chaser tool, (they used to be used for cutting threads in metal, too) but be prepared to practice. In metal they were also often used freehand ;ike on a wood lathe.?
With the coarse thread, you may well be better off with a hand crank on the lathe, too.
The thread chaser cuts multiple threads at the same time and the tool (normally hand held I understand) needs to be held at ~ 90 degrees to the thread, unlike the usual angle for cutting one side of a metal thread. OR, if you are doing it by hand, do you angle the thread chaser so it cuts a series of slightly deeper threads. Thus the tool needs to be held in the tool post at a similar angle?
I’ll have to dig out my wood lathe books, but this article on chasing threads pn a wood lathe indicates not.
Assuming I can sharpen it correctly and clamp it to the tool post, can anyone offer any suggestions or guidance? Do you cut it in multiple passes, in a similar way to a metal thread?
I assume I’m going to have to make and use some sort of a travelling steady. My idea is to clamp it in the chuck and use a small freely rotating chuck at the tailstock end.
I believe I can get a much better quality and accurate thread using the gears than trying to use it hand held - on a very long tool holder, the same as the ones on a wood lathe. I have to check but I think the wood for the screws is normally Beech, if that’s relevant?
You want very hard wood Beech is one, or lignum vitae etc. the article above lists some suitable species.
Thank you in anticipation.
David of Abingdon(UK)
--? Bruce Johnson
"Wherever you go, there you are." B. Banzai, PhD
|
Using that technique, you could probably use an appropriately thick cutoff tool to cut the thread...
ralphie
|
A little time spent internet searching will probably save a lot of shop time & give better results than just diving in. There are lots of wood threading tools around, both hand & router based. Since you'll be doing a lot of cross grain cutting, tool sharpness is essential.
?<??>
Roy
|
David,
I have cut very clean threads in wood dowels and externally also in hardwoods. I made up a four flute 60degree thread mill in a rotary tool similar to a Dremel. And mounted it the the Toolpost of my minilathe and used the leadscrew and half nuts to cut the thread. Beautiful result and not hard to do. Looks extremely nice when using darker exotic hardwood.
Dick
|
If you haven't cut your thread already...
As a woodworker and machinist, I have used my metal lathe for wood parts fairly frequently.? If the threads are Acme or similar, think about mounting a Dremel (type) tool with a bit to cut the bulk of your threads before following with the chaser. Or a custom ground HSS bit or cutoff tool much narrower than the thread width to avoid grain tearout. You have to be extremely careful with a full dimension form tool with most woods at that grain orientation. If your wood is at all porous (lignum vitae wouldn't qualify) consider saturating the thread dowel with CPES, either commercial or thinning your own epoxy about 10% with alcohol. It will make the threads stronger and slipperier.
Joe
|
How do you keep from getting sawdust all over your oily ways, and every other part of the lathe with an oily film (i.e., all of it)?
|
When doing wood use a light bedway oil.?
Wipe off every hour.
I use metal lathes for wood foundry patterns since 1960's.?
Never had a wood lathe
Dave?
|
Are these clamps the " hand screw " clamps ? They have left & right hand
threads . I've never seen a set with wooden screws .
??? animal
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 1/15/24 11:39 PM, DAVID WILLIAMS via groups.io wrote: Dear All,
I realise this is both part Mini lathe and part wood lathe. But to me the metal lathe part is more important. Hence my question to you all.
I have a couple of these old wooden clamps - probably antique. They are just like the metalwork ones we use, but much much larger. One has a severely damaged (external) threads.
I would like to try(?) and cut the replacement long wooden thread on my 7 x 12. So, I bought a second hand thread chaser on eBay. It’s 6 TPI and according to the chart on the Little Machine Shop site - the gear set up is no problem on my imperial lathe.
[JFI it’s Real Bull model purchased from Chester Machines (in the UK) some 20+ years ago. If that’s at all relevant?]
The thread chaser cuts multiple threads at the same time and the tool (normally hand held I understand) needs to be held at ~ 90 degrees to the thread, unlike the usual angle for cutting one side of a metal thread. OR, if you are doing it by hand, do you angle the thread chaser so it cuts a series of slightly deeper threads. Thus the tool needs to be held in the tool post at a similar angle?
Assuming I can sharpen it correctly and clamp it to the tool post, can anyone offer any suggestions or guidance? Do you cut it in multiple passes, in a similar way to a metal thread?
I assume I’m going to have to make and use some sort of a travelling steady. My idea is to clamp it in the chuck and use a small freely rotating chuck at the tailstock end.
I believe I can get a much better quality and accurate thread using the gears than trying to use it hand held - on a very long tool holder, the same as the ones on a wood lathe. I have to check but I think the wood for the screws is normally Beech, if that’s relevant?
Thank you in anticipation.
David of Abingdon(UK)
|
They are of the style of an engineers hand clamp but really HUGE in comparison and of course made of wood.
Best regards
David
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 28 Jan 2024, at 19:01, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
?Are these clamps the " hand screw " clamps ? They have left & right hand
threads . I've never seen a set with wooden screws .
animal
On 1/15/24 11:39 PM, DAVID WILLIAMS via groups.io wrote:
Dear All,
I realise this is both part Mini lathe and part wood lathe. But to me the metal lathe part is more important. Hence my question to you all.
I have a couple of these old wooden clamps - probably antique. They are just like the metalwork ones we use, but much much larger. One has a severely damaged (external) threads.
I would like to try(?) and cut the replacement long wooden thread on my 7 x 12. So, I bought a second hand thread chaser on eBay. It’s 6 TPI and according to the chart on the Little Machine Shop site - the gear set up is no problem on my imperial lathe.
[JFI it’s Real Bull model purchased from Chester Machines (in the UK) some 20+ years ago. If that’s at all relevant?]
The thread chaser cuts multiple threads at the same time and the tool (normally hand held I understand) needs to be held at ~ 90 degrees to the thread, unlike the usual angle for cutting one side of a metal thread. OR, if you are doing it by hand, do you angle the thread chaser so it cuts a series of slightly deeper threads. Thus the tool needs to be held in the tool post at a similar angle?
Assuming I can sharpen it correctly and clamp it to the tool post, can anyone offer any suggestions or guidance? Do you cut it in multiple passes, in a similar way to a metal thread?
I assume I’m going to have to make and use some sort of a travelling steady. My idea is to clamp it in the chuck and use a small freely rotating chuck at the tailstock end.
I believe I can get a much better quality and accurate thread using the gears than trying to use it hand held - on a very long tool holder, the same as the ones on a wood lathe. I have to check but I think the wood for the screws is normally Beech, if that’s relevant?
Thank you in anticipation.
David of Abingdon(UK)
|
like these ?
thanks
animal
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 1/28/24 12:01 PM, David Wiseman wrote: They are of the style of an engineers hand clamp but really HUGE in comparison and of course made of wood.
Best regards
David
On 28 Jan 2024, at 19:01, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
?Are these clamps the " hand screw " clamps ? They have left & right hand
threads . I've never seen a set with wooden screws .
animal
On 1/15/24 11:39 PM, DAVID WILLIAMS via groups.io wrote:
Dear All,
I realise this is both part Mini lathe and part wood lathe. But to me the metal lathe part is more important. Hence my question to you all.
I have a couple of these old wooden clamps - probably antique. They are just like the metalwork ones we use, but much much larger. One has a severely damaged (external) threads.
I would like to try(?) and cut the replacement long wooden thread on my 7 x 12. So, I bought a second hand thread chaser on eBay. It’s 6 TPI and according to the chart on the Little Machine Shop site - the gear set up is no problem on my imperial lathe.
[JFI it’s Real Bull model purchased from Chester Machines (in the UK) some 20+ years ago. If that’s at all relevant?]
The thread chaser cuts multiple threads at the same time and the tool (normally hand held I understand) needs to be held at ~ 90 degrees to the thread, unlike the usual angle for cutting one side of a metal thread. OR, if you are doing it by hand, do you angle the thread chaser so it cuts a series of slightly deeper threads. Thus the tool needs to be held in the tool post at a similar angle?
Assuming I can sharpen it correctly and clamp it to the tool post, can anyone offer any suggestions or guidance? Do you cut it in multiple passes, in a similar way to a metal thread?
I assume I’m going to have to make and use some sort of a travelling steady. My idea is to clamp it in the chuck and use a small freely rotating chuck at the tailstock end.
I believe I can get a much better quality and accurate thread using the gears than trying to use it hand held - on a very long tool holder, the same as the ones on a wood lathe. I have to check but I think the wood for the screws is normally Beech, if that’s relevant?
Thank you in anticipation.
David of Abingdon(UK)
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I believe the string was referring to ones that were all wood, like this:
Jerry F.
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Ok , huge brain fart over here , yea I have seen those . Looking at
that pic linked the wooden ones look like they have a same direction
thread full length of the screw ? I know on the ones I have with the
steel screw the thread's? change direction on each screw so each screw
has left hand & right hand threads . Lookin at one of mine some threads
run right into each other & on the other screw on the clamp there looks
like there's a break in the thread before they meet? on the screw .
Before & after lunch maybe ?
thanks for the pic's
animal
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On 1/28/24 3:19 PM, Gerald Feldman wrote: I believe the string was referring to ones that were all wood, like this:
Jerry F.
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davesmith1800
chrisser
Ralph Lehotsky
OldToolmaker