开云体育

Nick,
which way is it tapered, small end to the headstock or tailstock? If
your lathe is bolted down that can twist the bed and swpping parts
will not help.

Try loosening the bolts holding down the tailstock end and take
another cut. If it changes the bed was twisted by the bolts. Then
you shim it so when it is tightened down the cuts are true without a
taper.

Bob

Good Morning:

Finally received the new HS assembly from Homier, and carefully
swapped out the internals from the original. After installing
the "new" hs, and squaring it to the bed, I reinstalled the chuck,
and proceeded to chuck up a 1/2" 12L14 shaft to test the assembly.
Checking the hs/ts height, showed them to be in good alignment. Took
a .010" pass off the rod without holding the end in the ts, and even
taking a short cut 2" from the hs produced a taper. Am wondering if
the bed is twisted, or if I should just scrap this unit for a new
one. If anyone else has run across this situation, I would be
interested in hearing your thoughts/comments on correcting this
problem. Best regards, Nick

Yeh I have been checking out that www.mini-lathe.com page , very
imformative. I am on a budget so I probably will stick with the
homier, they have exact sma eones on ebay with only $50 for
shipping! I will have to check that out, Well thanks for your input
guys, and more is appriciated.

Sean


--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "Paul W. Chamberlain" <pwc@c...> wrote:

There was quite a discussion on another group awhile back. The

economy

minded supported the Homier 7x12. The members that had purchased

the

Micro-Mark 7x14 were very pleased with that lathe. It is over twice

the

price of the Homier at $629, so the buyer needs to determine what

they

want, and just how much extra features are worth. I paid $895 for a

7x14

made in Taiwan a couple of years ago. Same basic design as the
Micro-Mark but better built yet than the Chinese units. If there

were an

American made version, it would be priced in four figures.

The Homier and Micro-Mark lathes both come out of the same factory.

The

Micro-Mark has a longer bed, larger motor, spindle tach, "true

inch"

cross slide and compound leadscrews and a cam lock tailstock. The
individuals that already had a Homier or Grizzly 7x12 or a Harbor
Freight 7x10 reported that they felt the Micro-Mark was better

finished,

out of the box. Micro-Mark carries several accessories for 7x

series

lathes, For Homier, you currently have to get the accessories from

one

of the other vendors.

Both Homier and Micro-Mark have had good reports for after sale

support,

especially in cases where there was damage in shipment. Homier has

both

online ordering with a shipping charge and traveling tool shows

with no

shipping charge. The traveling shows seem to have only a couple

lathes

at each show, and it's first come, first served. Micro-Mark has a

10%

off sale every few months ( I wait for those when there is

something I

want from them).


Do a "Smart Search" for 03911



For spare parts or after warranty repair parts, LittleMachineShop

has

them, along with many accessories.



Paul, Central OR

There was quite a discussion on another group awhile back. The economy minded supported the Homier 7x12. The members that had purchased the Micro-Mark 7x14 were very pleased with that lathe. It is over twice the price of the Homier at $629, so the buyer needs to determine what they want, and just how much extra features are worth. I paid $895 for a 7x14 made in Taiwan a couple of years ago. Same basic design as the Micro-Mark but better built yet than the Chinese units. If there were an American made version, it would be priced in four figures.

The Homier and Micro-Mark lathes both come out of the same factory. The Micro-Mark has a longer bed, larger motor, spindle tach, "true inch" cross slide and compound leadscrews and a cam lock tailstock. The individuals that already had a Homier or Grizzly 7x12 or a Harbor Freight 7x10 reported that they felt the Micro-Mark was better finished, out of the box. Micro-Mark carries several accessories for 7x series lathes, For Homier, you currently have to get the accessories from one of the other vendors.

Both Homier and Micro-Mark have had good reports for after sale support, especially in cases where there was damage in shipment. Homier has both online ordering with a shipping charge and traveling tool shows with no shipping charge. The traveling shows seem to have only a couple lathes at each show, and it's first come, first served. Micro-Mark has a 10% off sale every few months ( I wait for those when there is something I want from them).


Do a "Smart Search" for 03911



For spare parts or after warranty repair parts, LittleMachineShop has them, along with many accessories.



Paul, Central OR



Smurf707 wrote:

I use brass strips from the local hobby shop. They come in 12" length, different thickness and widths. I cut them to size and form them around the jaws like a second skin. That way I don't need four hands to tighten the material in the chuck.

If you heat the brass with a propane torch until red then quench it in water, it will anneal (soften) it and it is real easy to form.

Paul, Central OR


Smurf707 wrote:

Sean, You can find a lot of info that may answer your
questions here:



Frank Hoose


--- Smurf707 <smurf707@...> wrote:

Hello I am an 18 yeard old machinist, I have about
3.5 years as a
machinist/machinist in training. I am currently
attending college
for Precision Machnining Technology. I am used to
big old lathes and
mills, but I absolutely love machining and they are
to big and bulky
for my space, I have chosen on the smaller version,
possible the
Homier 7x12 because its $299 But what is this I
hear about the
7x14 micro mark, how much is it, which would be a
better buy? Thanks

Sean



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Paul, Central OR


Jerry Smith wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "Capt Ken Appleby" <captkenn@m...> wrote:
Unfortunately, in the UK, Alum is no

longer readily obtainable "at the local pharmacist.

You might try a taxidermist shop or a garden shop, it has uses in
both activities. I do not know from personal knowledge if potassium
alum or aluminum sulfate give identical results. Seems to me that
both are called alum. If it will save your castings it might be
worth the time to do some web searching.

Al Day

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "Capt Ken Appleby" <captkenn@m...> wrote:

Hi Mike,
In each case the drill is broken off below the surface and they are
2mm drills, so are quite small. I tried to do the Alum method
advised by an earlier reply. Unfortunately, in the UK, Alum is no
longer readily obtainable "at the local pharmacist". In fact (snip)

Yup...2mm is a little tough to work around. It reminds me though
Capt. Ken that recently I saw an article on an extremely simple EDM
that was just a vertical slide that lowered an electrode into a bowl
of water. The power was from the mains with two light bulbs on each
phase. The examples showed nice clean small cuts using wire rod with
brazed shapes as electrodes. I've surfed by other edm projects on
the net. If you'd like I'll try to look it up and scan it....It was
in Home Shop Machinist some months ago I think.

I have to confess Ken, I don't have a 7 x 12 but I've had a 7 x 10
for years. Although I'm in Canada I ordered the repair kit from
Little Machine Shop and was more than pleased. It has replacements
for all the driving gears, new driver transistors and belts and cross
slide nut. The price is so low it may be worthwhile ordering from
them and paying the shipping. I'm not aware of any similar supplier
on your side.

My preferance on the nut would be to buy a 10 x 1 mm LH tap and make
my own but then I've never had the trouble.

Give me email off line if you need the scans.

Mike

Hi,
Does "Chris's terrific Little Machine Shop" have a website, Google
can't find the URL.

Thanks,

Jerry

Hi Mike,
In each case the drill is broken off below the surface and they are
2mm drills, so are quite small. I tried to do the Alum method
advised by an earlier reply. Unfortunately, in the UK, Alum is no
longer readily obtainable "at the local pharmacist". In fact "Boots" -
the countries biggest chemist - is 'out of stock'. I was able to
find an industrial supplier who eventually came back and said they
would supply a minimum of 1Kilo (2.25 lbs) for ?50 ($75) which seems
a bit drastic for the sake of three small broken bits!

My 2nd question is this. There is Chris's terrific 'Little Machine
Shop' in the US - is there anyone in the UK who keeps a similar
supply of 7x12 parts? Chronos have a few items that fit our machines
but nobody, on line, seems to supply a full range of spare parts??
Machine Mart stock parts but you can't order them on line and they
don't keep them 'in store'.

I have a broken cross slide nut (:o( and think while I am it I will
get a few spares of other things (belts fuses gib strips etc) as they
normally go when you need them most.
Regards
Ken


--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "walsh2002bc" <me.walsh@s...> wrote:

Hi Ken:

I hate it when that happens...I find that deeper holes in aluminum
need to be cleaned out more so they won't bind 'cause it's gummy
stuff. Try putting the workpiece in a vise and tapping the bit

with

a hammer and small drift. Sometimes just working it in different
directions will loosen it off.

mike




--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "Capt Ken Appleby" <captkenn@m...> wrote:

Hi,
This might sound a bit basic but it has stumped me! While

drilling

on

my lathe, I have broken two 2mm drills in two separate holes in a
steam engine alluminium casting. They have both broken off flush

so

there is nothing to get hold of and there is not a lot of space
around them. I have thought of over-drilling the whole lot out

(if

I

can) and making a screw-in plug and milling it flush.

Is the casting a write-off - Or is there another way?

All help appreciated
Regards
Ken

Cardbaord I have used, although that may not have a whole lot of
precision when u do that so pop cans or some thing along those lines
sounds like the best best.

Sean

Hello I am an 18 yeard old machinist, I have about 3.5 years as a
machinist/machinist in training. I am currently attending college
for Precision Machnining Technology. I am used to big old lathes and
mills, but I absolutely love machining and they are to big and bulky
for my space, I have chosen on the smaller version, possible the
Homier 7x12 because its $299 But what is this I hear about the
7x14 micro mark, how much is it, which would be a better buy? Thanks

Sean

From what I know, they are the same. Both are interchangeable with
each other pretty much, maybe 1 has a different coating?

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "Brice D. Hornback" <bdh@c...> wrote:

LMS has several different types of turning tools that take the

indexable

inserts. My question is, what's the difference between these two

types of

inserts?

TCMM inserts
TCMT Inserts

Thanks,
Brice

Hi Ken:

I hate it when that happens...I find that deeper holes in aluminum
need to be cleaned out more so they won't bind 'cause it's gummy
stuff. Try putting the workpiece in a vise and tapping the bit with
a hammer and small drift. Sometimes just working it in different
directions will loosen it off.

mike




--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "Capt Ken Appleby" <captkenn@m...> wrote:

Hi,
This might sound a bit basic but it has stumped me! While drilling

on

my lathe, I have broken two 2mm drills in two separate holes in a
steam engine alluminium casting. They have both broken off flush so
there is nothing to get hold of and there is not a lot of space
around them. I have thought of over-drilling the whole lot out (if

I

can) and making a screw-in plug and milling it flush.

Is the casting a write-off - Or is there another way?

All help appreciated
Regards
Ken

try filling the hole with penetrating oil and leaving it to soak. they may
pull out with pliers
DAVID WILLIAMS
BOLTON
ENGLAND
davidalan@...
SAM ZERO

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "Capt Ken Appleby" <captkenn@m...> wrote:

Hi,
This might sound a bit basic but it has stumped me! While drilling

on

my lathe, I have broken two 2mm drills in two separate holes in a
steam engine alluminium casting. They have both broken off flush so
there is nothing to get hold of and there is not a lot of space
around them. I have thought of over-drilling the whole lot out (if

I

can) and making a screw-in plug and milling it flush.

Is the casting a write-off - Or is there another way?

All help appreciated
Regards
Ken

Check this link,

Al

--- In 7x12minilathe@y..., "Capt Ken Appleby" <captkenn@m...> wrote:

Hi,
This might sound a bit basic but it has stumped me! While drilling

on

my lathe, I have broken two 2mm drills in two separate holes in a

Is the casting a write-off - Or is there another way?

Someone on the 7X10 minilathe group gave a reference to a site where
it was stated that you can put an aluminum part in simmering water
that is saturated with alum, (of the kind used for making pickles,
(potassium alum?)), and the tap will begin to bubble a bit, when the
bubbling stops, the tap is dissolved.

You might want to ask this same question there and get the referenced
site.



Al

Hi,
This might sound a bit basic but it has stumped me! While drilling on
my lathe, I have broken two 2mm drills in two separate holes in a
steam engine alluminium casting. They have both broken off flush so
there is nothing to get hold of and there is not a lot of space
around them. I have thought of over-drilling the whole lot out (if I
can) and making a screw-in plug and milling it flush.

Is the casting a write-off - Or is there another way?

All help appreciated
Regards
Ken