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Re: left hand thread cutting
The premium content article is good. I learned to thread at my school on the lathe, but i subscribed to the article anyways. The only thing i did not like was the setup explanation. The drivetrain explanation is good, but its the tool setup i did not like. Like using the center gage to make sure the tool is perpendicular and centered.
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gerry waclawiak wrote: you need to subscribe to the premium content either for the article or for |
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Re: Cummins arrived
Boss
I would like to know something about the Cummins lathe and where one can be bought.
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It is time to get some regulations placed on UPS and Fedex...like no signature=no proof of delivery. UPS has been very abusive and has cost me dearly. It is time that these people learn that they are paid for SERVICE. The post office isn't doing too hot either... not when it takes 12 days to get a 1 pound package from LaFayette, LA to a town in West Texas. As for weight. I worked for NCR for many years and carried a little fold up wheeled dolly in the station wagon to roll the heavy cash registers in and out of a customers place of business. Never strained a muscle. I guess the younger generation driving the vehicles are just weak pussies. ----- Original Message -----
From: tonyhursh To: 7x12minilathe@... Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2004 11:48 AM Subject: [7x12minilathe] Cummins arrived My Cummins lathe arrived late yesterday afternoon. I spent some time last night cleaning off the cosmoline-like red grease and doing the small amount of assembly required (mostly just putting on a few handles). I haven't fired it up yet; that will happen tonight. So far my overall impression is good. The extra tooling that comes with it is a nice plus (that's what persuaded me to go with Cummins, actually). I remember reading a few weeks back that Cummins had temporarily suspended shipping the lathes due to excessive damage in shipment. It looks like the solution they came up with is to make an outer cardboard shell around the normal box, with extra space on the ends that get filled with that expanding foam goop. It seems to have worked okay in my case. The outer case is generic cardboard, so it isn't obvious what the package is. That'd be a bonus if you lived in a neighborhood where machine tools might grow legs and walk off if the delivery guy left them on the porch. That's not really an issue around here, but I think someone expressed concern about that a while back. An oddity: although I was told that shipping would occur via UPS when I ordered, the package actually came via FedEx. Cummins notified me of this change and gave me a tracking number, so that's not a big deal. Maybe they've switched to FedEx? The FedEx guy was NOT happy about the package weight. Someone at FedEx had scribbled "Heavy!!!!" on the box with a red crayon. Heh. So far I'm pleased.I'll post again after I finish setting it up and make a few chips. -- Tony Be sure to check out for small mills and lathes. Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links a.. To visit your group on the web, go to: b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: 7x12minilathe-unsubscribe@... c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. |
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20% H F coupon
开云体育I bought one at HF Houston a couple weeks ago and got both
sale price and 20% off, but it took a half-hour wait while they found someone to
approve the 20% coupon. Net cost $399 |
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Turning Brass and Aluminum on a 7x14
Brice D. Hornback - KA8MAV
Hello. What's the best way to chuck material in a lathe without it
getting all scratched, dinged, and gouged up? I've been finding, especially with brass, that I have to tighten it in the chuck very tightly to keep it in there... which puts deep indentations in the brass stock. Is there a way to prevent this if I were turning something that couldn't just have the end cut off? Thanks, Brice |
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Re: Turning Brass and Aluminum on a 7x14
Make a sleeve out of some aluminum flashing, or just
use small pieces of flashing under each jaw to protect the workpiece. Some guys cut up alumimum beer or soda cans for this purpose. Frank Hoose --- "Brice D. Hornback - KA8MAV" <bdh@...> wrote: Hello. What's the best way to chuck material in a __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Y! Web Hosting - Let the expert host your web site |
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Re: Turning Brass and Aluminum on a 7x14
Brice D. Hornback
That's exactly what I was looking for.
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THANKS! - Brice ----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank Hoose" <fhoose@...> To: <7x12minilathe@...> Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2002 10:25 PM Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Turning Brass and Aluminum on a 7x14 Make a sleeve out of some aluminum flashing, or just s
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Correcting Lathe accuracy
Good Morning All:
Having trouble setting up a Homier 7X12 lathe recently purchased. This lathe is turning a taper from tailstock to headstock no matter how much adjustment I make to correct tailstock setover. Is it possible that the tail and head are not set parallel to eachother? Has anyone else run across the same difficulty? Any advice on this problem, with methods to correct it would be greatly appreciated, as this little unit appears to be a good value for the money. Best regards, Nick |
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Re: Correcting Lathe accuracy
It seems unlikely to me that the HS is out of
alignment. The TS easily could be, but you can get it close enough for most work by simply turning a point onto a piece of stock using the compound and bringing the point of a dead center mounted in the TS to meet it (see photo). What diameter stock are you turning and how are you holding it? Frank Hoose --- ntdefeo <ntdefeo@...> wrote: Good Morning All: __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now |
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Re: Correcting Lathe accuracy
Good Morning Frank,
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I am turning 1/2" dia 6061 aluminum and 1/2" 12L14 stock. Using a dial indicator on the carriage, I am seeing .010" reading from the chuck (standard 3 jaw) to the ts, measuring against the rear of the stock. On the top of the stock, I am seeing a 020" from the chuck to the ts, with the live center bearing on the stock, or not. Is it possible the hs is not correctly aligned with the bed, and ts height? I am a former machinist, although that was many years ago, and am just getting back into it as a hobby. I was thinking that either shimming the hs to the ts height to correct the difference, and perhaps some judicial filing of the hs base to correct the parallelism to the bed. Any tricks you could provide would be greatly appreciated. Best regards, Nick -- In 7x12minilathe@y..., Frank Hoose <fhoose@y...> wrote:
It seems unlikely to me that the HS is out of |
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Re: Correcting Lathe accuracy
Bob Colquitt
Nick,
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Was reading in an old PM Shop Notes last night a possible solution. Buy yourself a piece of ground drill rod a touch over 10" long - something which will go thru the spindle - 1/2" dia.? Center in your chuck and center drill both ends. Mark a spot near both ends with the marks 10" apart. Put centers in both your spindle and tailstock and mount your test rod. Mount a dial indicator in your tool post and ck the height on the rod at both marks and then ck the side at both marks. This will quickly tell you if your tailstock is too hi/lo, off to one side or the other, or both. From there you will be able to know what is off. Good Luck, -=- Bob Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 17:16:31 -0000 |
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Re: Correcting Lathe accuracy
Good Morning Bob:
I appreciate the quick response and will try this method. Should the ts prove to be too high, would it be better to shim the hs, or lower the ts with some careful filing of the base assembly? I realize some of the problem is due to the carriage assembly needing adjustment, and will tend to that issue prior to testing the hs/ts alignment. Thanks for the info. Sincerely, Nick Bob Colquitt <wahsatch@...> wrote:Nick, Was reading in an old PM Shop Notes last night a possible solution. Buy yourself a piece of ground drill rod a touch over 10" long - something which will go thru the spindle - 1/2" dia.? Center in your chuck and center drill both ends. Mark a spot near both ends with the marks 10" apart. Put centers in both your spindle and tailstock and mount your test rod. Mount a dial indicator in your tool post and ck the height on the rod at both marks and then ck the side at both marks. This will quickly tell you if your tailstock is too hi/lo, off to one side or the other, or both. From there you will be able to know what is off. Good Luck, -=- Bob Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2002 17:16:31 -0000Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: 7x12minilathe-unsubscribe@... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now |
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Re: Correcting Lathe accuracy
Here's a link to an article by Jose Rodriguez that may
be helpful. Also some info by Rick Kruger --- ntdefeo <ntdefeo@...> wrote: Good Morning Frank, __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now |
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Re: Ck'g Tailstock
Bob Colquitt
Nick,
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I'm on digest mode so my response is slow coming. First thing to do is pull your tailstock off and ck for burrs, rough spots, etc. after you do the initial alignment ck. Use a small, fine file to ease off. To ck for hi/lo spots, use markup dye [Magic Marker will work also] and a good straightedge on the wear surfaces of the TS. To clean small areas, I use toilet paper dipped in rubbing alcohol - any burr/rough spot will tear the paper. Need to remember to re-oil afterwards as RA has water in it. Might also pull your headstock and ck also if you find anything on the tailstock. The reason why is after you use the lathe, the headstock could settle and your alignment would be off again. That's the problem with the Chinese stuff - in order to keep it cheap, shortcuts are taken. Besides, taking the lathe apart will teach you a lot. Keep some bandaids and hydrogen peroxide around because the burrs can be sharp! -=- Bob Date: Thu, 31 Oct 2002 07:51:25 -0800 (PST) From: Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@...> |
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Re: center to center
Paul W. Chamberlain
Frankie,
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For the lack of a better example, I'll try this one... Imagine you had a big 1" bolt, 12" long. You want to face the underside of the head, and turn the flats off the bottom 1/8" of the hex portion. You could hold the top portion of the bolt head in the chuck, and support the threaded end of the bolt at the tailstock. All of the work would take place within a 1" area near the chuck, but the between center space allows the full length handling of the project. Paul, Central OR lathechuck wrote: With all the talk about bed length, it seems to me the only space that matters is how much space you have between the work piece in a chuck and tool bit in the compound |
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Re: center to center
Paul W. Chamberlain
No...
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With the HF 7x10, the working distance with the chuck mounted is more like 8". They use the older convention of distance between tapered centers mounted at both the headstock and tailstock to get 10". Also, the headstock spindle bore would not take 1" stock for trying to hold the bolt by its shank with just the head exposed. The bore is just under 13/16", and some users have used a reamer to open it up to a full 13/16". Paul, Central OR franksjoy@... wrote: Retaining the same dimensions you gave, could you do it on a 7X10? |
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