??? ??? I learned the first time I had to machine cast iron that it was a whole different ball game . I won the game , but wouldn't have without all the info I got online .
animal
I started cutting both cast iron and A36 before 1970.? I did not know any better.
?
Roy
5:45pm? ?
I like the Carbide Depot insert identification page as a quick reference:
?
? < https://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-insert-d.htm >
?
Roy
When ordering if get a larger radius for better finish.?
A sharp end will cut better but finish is more like threading?
Dave?
|
??? ??? I learned the first time I had to machine cast iron that
it was a whole different ball game . I won the game , but wouldn't
have without all the info I got online .
animal
On 1/9/24 5:03 PM, davesmith1800 wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
If working for some one else I love Insert tooling . I paying for
cutters most time they got HSS.?
I did work in A36 you can sharpen the cutter to deal with A36.
I also did work in class 45 cast iron. The first cut was with
insert.? Casting before the can have hard parts and insert was
easier to replace and less down time.
In roller boxes I used insert only
Cut off always HSS it shap for needs of cutting bar stock
Dave?
|
I like the Carbide Depot insert identification page as a quick reference:
? < https://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-insert-d.htm >
Roy
|
If working for some one else I love Insert tooling . I paying for cutters most time they got HSS.?
I did work in A36 you can sharpen the cutter to deal with A36.
I also did work in class 45 cast iron. The first cut was with insert.? Casting before the can have hard parts and insert was easier to replace and less down time.
In roller boxes I used insert only
Cut off always HSS it shap for needs of cutting bar stock
Dave?
|
??? ??? What I really liked is how he explained why the HSS tool
cut better . A lot of folks can't get past the fact that with
these super small & sharp inserts with the tiny tip , yer
really just threading @ 200 TPI when yer chasing a finish with
them though that wasn't the plan? .
animal
On 1/9/24 4:06 PM, Charles Kinzer
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
That is a VERY good video
that shows how far you can go down the rabbit hole with
inserts.
I found it amusing that he
got the best finish (shown at about 27 minutes into the video)
with a ground HSS tool and not an insert.? I have recommended
that on this group more than once as the best path to a good
finish and not use inserts for that.? On larger, more
substantial, more rigid lathes using larger inserts, it is
entirely different story.
If you don't want to get too
involved in the morass of inserts, usually, sources for
hobbyists with mini lathes (like Little Machine Shop and
ArcEuroTrade) sell a small subset of the universe of inserts
that somebody has decided are "good enough" choices.
Surface finish depends on a
lot of things, but some of the key ones are machine and tool
bit rigidity (not so good on mini lathes), tool bit radius
(usually not sufficient on the rather small inserts used with
mini lathes), and feed rate (usually too fast on a mini lathe
unless it has been modified to be slower).? The "low hanging
fruit" to get a better finish on a mini lathe, in my opinion,
is to grind your own HSS tool bit with a broad radius.
I have a larger lathe in
which I have used inserts a lot.? But almost never in the mini
lathe.? Then again, I'm very comfortable with grinding tool
bits, perhaps because over a half century ago I was taught
that as a fundamental part of learning machining.? On the
other hand, it is nice to just pop in a fresh insert (or
rotate one to a fresh edge) which is really fast.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Tuesday, January 9, 2024 at 03:24:00 PM PST, mike
allen <animal@...> wrote:
This guy deserves a drink , no several after
all the work that went into
being able to make this tube .
animal
|
Absolutely indispensable information!
I am so grateful this gentleman decided to tough it out and then explain it all in layman's terms.
I saved it to my favorites to refer to in the future, gave it a thumbs up, left a comment thanking him and subscribed.
Thank you also Animal for posting it here for us.
Sent from ProtonMail, Swiss-based encrypted email.
Sent with Proton Mail secure email.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Tuesday, January 9th, 2024 at 3:23 PM, mike allen <animal@...> wrote: This guy deserves a drink , no several after all the work that went into
being able to make this tube .
animal
|
That is a VERY good video that shows how far you can go down the rabbit hole with inserts.
I found it amusing that he got the best finish (shown at about 27 minutes into the video) with a ground HSS tool and not an insert.? I have recommended that on this group more than once as the best path to a good finish and not use inserts for that.? On larger, more substantial, more rigid lathes using larger inserts, it is entirely different story.
If you don't want to get too involved in the morass of inserts, usually, sources for hobbyists with mini lathes (like Little Machine Shop and ArcEuroTrade) sell a small subset of the universe of inserts that somebody has decided are "good enough" choices.
Surface finish depends on a lot of things, but some of the key ones are machine and tool bit rigidity (not so good on mini lathes), tool bit radius (usually not sufficient on the rather small inserts used with mini lathes), and feed rate (usually too fast on a mini lathe unless it has been modified to be slower).? The "low hanging fruit" to get a better finish on a mini lathe, in my opinion, is to grind your own HSS tool bit with a broad radius.
I have a larger lathe in which I have used inserts a lot.? But almost never in the mini lathe.? Then again, I'm very comfortable with grinding tool bits, perhaps because over a half century ago I was taught that as a fundamental part of learning machining.? On the other hand, it is nice to just pop in a fresh insert (or rotate one to a fresh edge) which is really fast.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Tuesday, January 9, 2024 at 03:24:00 PM PST, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:
This guy deserves a drink , no several after all the work that went into
being able to make this tube .
animal
|
This guy deserves a drink , no several after all the work that went into being able to make this tube .
animal
|
Re: to oil or not to oil, that is the question
I don't know where you guys live, but in my basement shop the temperature is constant within +/- 10 degree or so. My only environmental problem is humidity in the warmer months, which I keep at bay with a dehumidifier.
I have a mini-lathe, a mini-mill, an 11" Logan lathe, and a South Bend shaper. The shaper has a built-in oiling system (which was a pain to get right when I was restoring the shaper, but is nice to have now).?
On all of them I used to use cheaper stuff,? but now I use Mobil Vactra #2. It's about $50 a gallon, but a gallon will last you for years, so why not use the best?
Mike Taglieri?
here
i was a factory maintenence mechanic for 20 years
the other thing i do for my lathe is keep a small fan over it
it runs 24/7 365
my "shop" has no environmental controls
bare steel will rust while i'm cutting
oil will mix with the humidity and turn gummy
Sounds great if your in Hawaii.?
Where I live heat is problem we get up to 114¡ãF .? Oil will run off even 180wt.?
I know most just think oil as a rust protection but it to keep from no metal to metal contact with film.??
Dave
|
Re: to oil or not to oil, that is the question
here
i was a factory maintenence mechanic for 20 years
the other thing i do for my lathe is keep a small fan over it
it runs 24/7 365
my "shop" has no environmental controls
bare steel will rust while i'm cutting
oil will mix with the humidity and turn gummy
Sounds great if your in Hawaii.? Where I live heat is problem we get up to 114¡ãF .? Oil will run off even 180wt.? I know most just think oil as a rust protection but it to keep from no metal to metal contact with film.?? Dave
|
Re: to oil or not to oil, that is the question
??? ??? Dick , are ya sealing the wooden handles with the
paraffin ??
thanks
animal
On 1/9/24 5:29 AM, OldToolmaker via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
The generic for paraffin available locally in all Walmart stores.
It is ordinary mineral oil. Used by wood turners and fine
woodworkers. I use it on wood knife handles.
Also wood carvings.
Dries once absorbed. Easy to apply with cloth rag.
Dick
|
??? ??? Good eye Ralph , I didn't notice the chuck in the pic .
animal
On 1/9/24 7:53 AM, Ralph Lehotsky
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I would suggest that you remove the 3-jaw chuck and use a dead
center that has the same taper as your headstock (usually MT3 on
mini-lathes). Similarly on the tailstock (usually MT2).? You've
already shown that there is a misalignment with the chucks, but to
adjust the tailstock, I would use dead centers that fir the
tapers. Then adjust the tailstock accordingly.? Hopefully, the
headstock spindle is aligned with the ways.
ralphie
|
Re: to oil or not to oil, that is the question
On Tue, 9 Jan 2024, davesmith1800 wrote: More should be said about lubrication on lathes and mills.?
Lubrication make the lathe and mill last for every.? here here i was a factory maintenence mechanic for 20 years the other thing i do for my lathe is keep a small fan over it it runs 24/7 365 my "shop" has no environmental controls bare steel will rust while i'm cutting oil will mix with the humidity and turn gummy
|
Re: to oil or not to oil, that is the question
For these small lathes, just about anything used for lubrication will suffice.? For example, some buy expensive way oil, but they could use just about anything.? The reason is that the forces, and in most cases the frequency of use, are rather trivial on a machine this size, and even more so for the average hobbyist who may seldom use it.? The goal of rust prevention is typically a larger issue.
On a larger lathe in an industrial 24-7 machining situation at high speeds, high forces, and trying to get every last bit of performance out of a machine, using proper products at proper intervals becomes very important.? But not really for these little machines.? Just to anything to keep the moving parts from getting bone dry, and keep the surfaces coated with something to prevent rust, and you'll be fine.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Tuesday, January 9, 2024 at 09:47:13 AM PST, davesmith1800 <davesmith1@...> wrote:
More should be said about lubrication on lathes and mills.?
Lubrication make the lathe and mill last for every.?
Dave?
|
Re: to oil or not to oil, that is the question
More should be said about lubrication on lathes and mills.?
Lubrication make the lathe and mill last for every.?
Dave?
|
Re: to oil or not to oil, that is the question
Paraffin is found in canning.
Mineral oil is found in pharmacy?
I have both on my bench with other oils.
20w and 68w oil is automobile section
Cutting oil at hardware store
The only oil I can not found at local store is Way Lub.? I use on lathes since 1976?
Dave?
?
|
Re: A Great Bit of Craftsman Machining
Never had a Real Bull, but have come to the conclusion they are better than SIEG (certainly with the SIEG's I have had).
Couple of things - Possibly not completely factual - they appear to use 4 bolts for the headstock, may induction harden the ways, rectangular (vs "H"") cross-slide, ball oilers.? ?Bed extension kits (see Amadeal) come fully drilled for easy installation.
The latter may (who can say) mean Real Bull has a jigged-up process to get all the lathe holes dimensionally correct on production lathes and kits.
--
Lone Tree, Colorado? ?USA
|
I would suggest that you remove the 3-jaw chuck and use a dead center that has the same taper as your headstock (usually MT3 on mini-lathes). Similarly on the tailstock (usually MT2).? You've already shown that there is a misalignment with the chucks, but to adjust the tailstock, I would use dead centers that fir the tapers. Then adjust the tailstock accordingly.? Hopefully, the headstock spindle is aligned with the ways.
ralphie
|
Re: A Great Bit of Craftsman Machining
Lucky me. All oil fittings came on the lathe as new. Cross slide, tail stock and lead screw bushings. Thank you Real Bull
On Mon, Jan 8, 2024 at 8:20?PM Arthur Coe < acoe@...> wrote:
Between this and the video - got it!? Thanks.
On Monday, January 8, 2024 at 04:53:34 PM PST, OldToolmaker via <old_toolmaker= [email protected]> wrote:
Arthur,
The spring ball oil fitting is installed only in the saddle casting , never in the ways. A small pilot hole for the oil port is drilled through the casting and then tapped the appropriate size. The ways get oiled when the pump oil can is seated squarely on the fitting and a squirt of oil is shot into the fitting.
The fittings can also be on bushings that require oiling.
Indispensable on many applications.
Dick
|
Re: to oil or not to oil, that is the question
The generic for paraffin available locally in all Walmart stores. It is ordinary mineral oil. Used by wood turners and fine woodworkers. I use it on wood knife handles.
Also wood carvings.
Dries once absorbed. Easy to apply with cloth rag.
Dick
|
davesmith1800
Ralph Lehotsky
OldToolmaker