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What I see as the problem with the razor blade idea is that it is
dependent on the shape of the tip of the tool cutting the thread. Any
wear and you are getting off in diameter. And if you were cutting a ASME
thread rather than a sharp Vee thread you would have another difference
to contend with. I believe that there are thread wire sets that hold onto
the calipers for easy measurment of the most critical dimension. However
if you can cut one to fit and measure it in a consistant way then
subsequent ones should trach that measurment.

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "phrak9" <phrak9@y...> wrote:

I found a cheapo knurler on micro-mark.com for less than $14.00

shipped. Not a big

investment if it turns out being lame. I can post the findings if

there is interest.

--Eric

Part # 82771 DIAMOND PATTERN KNURLING TOOL

eric
please let me know what you learn
mike

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., William A Williams
<bwmsbldr@j...> wrote:

< Seems like some simple attachments to the caliper could be made

to

work for fine threads and even internal threads. Is such a thing
offered for sale or do I need to make it? >

Thread wires?

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

yes thread wires will work
but i am looking for something simpler
for the thread I'm cutting, 9/16 12, shoving in the blade parts of
the caliper gives a number of about .475 for adjacent minor diameters.
Sure enough, when i cut the second one today down to that number, the
nut fit perfectly.
if i attached 2 razor blades to the jaws of the caliper, and knew the
numbers for even fine threads, I'd know just when to stop cutting.
mike
engineering on the least action principle

I found a cheapo knurler on micro-mark.com for less than $14.00 shipped. Not a big
investment if it turns out being lame. I can post the findings if there is interest.

--Eric

Part # 82771 DIAMOND PATTERN KNURLING TOOL

My first stop, however, out of stock :(

< Seems like some simple attachments to the caliper could be made to
work for fine threads and even internal threads. Is such a thing
offered for sale or do I need to make it? >

Thread wires?

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Richard Albers"
<rralbers@j...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "mikeaita1" <aita1@a...>

wrote:

thanks everyone for helping
i finally cut some respectable threads today
mike aita

Congrats! I know how elated I felt when I first cut something

that

looked as good as "the pictures in the book". :-)

Of course, you realize that few items really need the precision of
single-point cut threads (few of mine, at least). I just cut

threads

that way because I CAN!

Do you have any unthreaded round stock left? ;-)

RA

Actually I cut 9/16 12 coarse threads for a fixture i need for an
invention i am working on. the coarse threads are very forgiving.
A remaining issue is knowing when the threads are deep enough.
Taking the tailstock off to try the nut is NOT the way to go,
although with a coarse thread I found I could realign the setup.
Putting the fine edge of a caliper in the threads seemed to work for
coarse threads.
Seems like some simple attachments to the caliper could be made to
work for fine threads and even internal threads. Is such a thing
offered for sale or do I need to make it?
Thanks again for your help.
mike

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "mikeaita1" <aita1@a...> wrote:

thanks everyone for helping
i finally cut some respectable threads today
mike aita

Congrats! I know how elated I felt when I first cut something that
looked as good as "the pictures in the book". :-)

Of course, you realize that few items really need the precision of
single-point cut threads (few of mine, at least). I just cut threads
that way because I CAN!

Do you have any unthreaded round stock left? ;-)

RA

Beware the Little Machine Shop knurling tool. They are a great
supplier and offer many quality items but the knurling tool is not
one of them. I purchased one several months ago. I recently had
occasion to use it to knurl some aluminum broach handles. The first
problem was the knurls. They were very poor quality and would not cut
regardless of pressure. I threw them away and replaced then with some
quality wheels from another supplier. The new knurling wheels were
good but when I applied enough pressure to effect a knurl the arms
would bend. I will be making a new sturdier tool. This is not meant
to denigrage Little Machine Shop as I think they run an excellent
business. I did not return the tool because it was inexpensive and
reshipping is a hassle.

Les

thanks everyone for helping
i finally cut some respectable threads today
mike aita

thanks everyone for helping
i finally cut some respectable threads today
mike aita

Hi Mike,

I too just bought a "Homier" 7x12 mini-lathe, 'live in WI. near
Madison. I'm currently working as a biomed tech in Madison, but have
experience in various other areas of engineering including prototype
machining using full scale lathes and milling machines.

I also just bought an x-y table for my drill press, I'm hoping to use
my drill press as a mini-mill engine for the small amount of machining
until I can afford to buy a true mill (someday).

I'm not sure where to buy materials yet, other than seeking materials
from local machineshop sources. The idea of scrap yard material isn't
a bad one. Let me know if you find a good cheap source. I know of one
company in Janesville that sells raw stock, but I'm sure around Milw.,
you will be able to find something in the yellow pages.

Don

Little machine shop..Chris Wood
Max

Eric,
How much? Got a picture?

Jerry

Anyone have any suggestions on who sells a scissor knurling tool for a
speedway mini lathe? I have a TS engineering QC toolpost on the lathe

--Eric

I also was thinking of getting one of these machines. I am currently trying
to figure out if I want one of the 9x20 lathes or 7xX. Wonder if anyone in
this group has purchased one yet. I would love to hear a compairison
between it and the 7x12. I love the idea of true inch lead screws. I would
like to have the 9x20 in true inch. Any thoughts on this will be much
appreciated.

Ben

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MONDAY: NOON - 7 PM TUESDAY: NOON - 7 PM

I don't think my first post made it.
Go to....
to see the coils I've built with my 7x12.

Matt

Hi

How's the fit and finish on that machine? I was thinking of getting
one.

Thanks, Frederick C. Wilt

The actual reference surfaces are the face of the spindle and the
outer dia. of the spindle nose; the outer dia. of the spindle is not
a reference. IIRC, the mini-lathe.com and/or littlemachineshop.com
sites have alignment measuring/adjusting procedures.
It's very easy to get measurement errors in the under .001" range -
everything flexes & sticks enough to make technique critical.
(Another area where you have to screw it up to learn how to do it
<g>) Assuming good meaurements, bearing preload may be the cause.
On the left end of the spindle, there are 2 locknuts; loosen the
outer one, tighten the inner one until the spindle doesn't deflect
under moderate longitudinal pressure in either direction, yet still
turns freely. After tightening the outer locknut against the inner
one (you do have 2 hook spanners, don't you?), repeat the
measurements & adjustments until it comes out right after the outer
nut is tightened (it pushes the inner nut away from the adjustment
point.) [Bicycle shops are a source for thin hook spanners.]
Alternately, since Micro-Mark charges a princely sum for their
merchandise, call customer service and make it their problem.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roycetool" <royce_martin@e...>
wrote:

Hi to all!

New here [and to machining] and having a great ime learning a new
craft.
I got a 7x14 from MicroMark. Lots of small problems, but my big

one

is spindle runout. I am getting just under .001" of runout on the
face of the spindle AND on the outer diameter! Of course, this

means

that turning anything true is almost impossible.
Anyone have any knowledge/suggestionson this one?

Thanks.