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ScottM015@... wrote:

They make a lubricant called white lightning for bicycle chains it has teflon
in it.

You sure about this? I just read the White lightning FAQ and it said nothing about teflon. It said it was a wax based lube.
Regards
Bob

I checked the label and it does not give ingredients. My bottle is atleast
6 years old and the stuff is still liquid form. Would that indicate if it
were wax or not. I really thought the sales person said it had teflon but
there is nothing that says it. However the properties it describes being
able to shed off dust and dirt and being self cleaning does sound like what
I'm looking for the leadscrew. I may try it out and see what happens. Any
other ideas?

Scott

I may still have some in my garage and I will check the label to confiem
this..

Scott

They make a lubricant called white lightning for bicycle chains it has teflon
in it. The neat thing about this lubricant is that you apply it and in a few
minutes it dries. It is real slippery after it dries. Maybe this would work
for us on the leadscrew? They use this to keep dirt from sticking to the
chain links.

Scott

hello.
I am pretty happy with my new 7x12 mini lathe but was wondering
what size cuts others are making on cold rolled steel.
I've gotten used to making .100+ cuts on 2" CRS on the
backgeared South Bends. I still need to get to know this lathe but
it looks like I'll be lucky to do .020 on this mini lathe.

Regards,
Jacko

Also, the error is in the direction of removing less metal - it's
easy to take another pass with a small advance to final diameter. If
the early cut was too big, no amount of cutting will replace removed
metal.
These lathes have some flex; taking multiple passes without
changing the tool position will take another small cut or 2. If you
carefully measure, you'll probably find the flex, even on light cuts,
is bigger than the theoretical error of the pseudo-inch dials.

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Frank Hoose" <fhoose@y...>
wrote:

Here's an example, which will hopefully make it more clear why the
small error of the dials is usually insignificant:

Suppose you want to turn a 1/2" diameter rod to .475" in dia. You
start by making a shallow turning pass to get a reference surface.
Let's say you measure it with your dial caliper and it is
now .497" dia. so you need to remove .497-.475" or
.022. So you will need to advance the cross feed by
11 divisions (reducing the radius by .011 will reduce
the dia by .022). To be safe, you advance by 9
divisions, then stop and check the diameter again.
Let's say it is now .477. For your final finishing
pass you advance the cross feed by 1 division reducing the diamer
by .002 to .475. The error of the dial for this small adjustment is
negligible - less, in fact, than the inherent
precision of the lathe.

The only time the error would be significant is if you advance the
dials by a full turn or more without rechecking the diameter by
measuring.

Suppose you needed to remove, say .240 and counted off 3 full
turns of the dial (.120) without taking another
measurement. Since the error for each full turn of the
dial is .040 - .03937 = .00063, the total error would
be .00189 or nearly 2 thousandths. In
practice, as you approach your desired diameter, you
would stop the lathe and measure the actual diameter,
then turn the dial by just a few divisions as needed to
reach the final diameter. With careful technique you should be able
to get the final diameter accurate to .001".


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Frank Hoose <fhoose@y...>

wrote:

Don't be overly concerned about true inch leadscrews.
The main (threading) leadscrew on the 7x lathes is
true inch. The cross feed and compound are 1mm pitch
with the calibrated wheels having 40 divisions. The
margin of error is very small (each rotation of the
handwheel is actually .03937 inches instead of .04000
inches and a single division is thus .000984 inches
rather than .00100 inches). Since you will no doubt
measure your work with "inch" measuring tools, the
error becomes negligible.

Frank Hoose



--- roylowenthal <roylowenthal@y...> wrote:

There's some comparisons here:

Some of the confusion about bed length may come
from the tailstock
not being able to seat a standard dead center unless
the ram is
extended an inch or so. Also, the headstock taper
is a bit
undersize, causing the center to stick out farther
than it really
should.
IIRC, there's a 9x20 group.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@...,
haplesstechnoweenie
<haplesstechnoweenie@c...> wrote:

I also was thinking of getting one of these

machines. I am
currently trying

to figure out if I want one of the 9x20 lathes or

7xX. Wonder if
anyone in

this group has purchased one yet. I would love to

hear a
compairison

between it and the 7x12. I love the idea of true

inch lead
screws. I would

like to have the 9x20 in true inch. Any thoughts

on this will be
much

appreciated.

Ben

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I converted my mini mill to belt drive, eliminating the nylon gears,
and converted "Z" axis rack control to acme screw control, for more
precise operation. Have all parts from conversions, NEW PARTS,
GUARANTEED, to sell. What is internet site best to advertise/sell
them. gears are same as on mini lathe. email me
jsullivan1051@.... Best, Jack

Here's an example, which will hopefully make it more clear why the
small error of the dials is usually insignificant:

Suppose you want to turn a 1/2" diameter rod to .475" in dia. You
start by making a shallow turning pass to get a reference surface.
Let's say you measure it with your dial caliper and it is
now .497" dia. so you need to remove .497-.475" or
.022. So you will need to advance the cross feed by
11 divisions (reducing the radius by .011 will reduce
the dia by .022). To be safe, you advance by 9
divisions, then stop and check the diameter again.
Let's say it is now .477. For your final finishing
pass you advance the cross feed by 1 division reducing the diamer
by .002 to .475. The error of the dial for this small adjustment is
negligible - less, in fact, than the inherent
precision of the lathe.

The only time the error would be significant is if you advance the
dials by a full turn or more without rechecking the diameter by
measuring.

Suppose you needed to remove, say .240 and counted off 3 full
turns of the dial (.120) without taking another
measurement. Since the error for each full turn of the
dial is .040 - .03937 = .00063, the total error would
be .00189 or nearly 2 thousandths. In
practice, as you approach your desired diameter, you
would stop the lathe and measure the actual diameter,
then turn the dial by just a few divisions as needed to
reach the final diameter. With careful technique you should be able
to get the final diameter accurate to .001".

hello.

Was just cleaning and lubing a new 7x12 as per the
mini-lathe.com site. In that site, they use lithium grease on the
dovetails and lead screws.

Isn't this a bad idea? Wont the chips stick? What lube do you
all recomend?

Thanks for any info.

jacko

Try www.mcmaster.com

Aw shucks... why didn't I think of that? That dead center was probably grinning at me all along! Thanks

* REPLY SEPARATOR *

On 5/4/2003 at 4:18 AM roylowenthal wrote:

Use a dead center or a high-bucks live center that doesn't have a
large diameter bearing housing. With a carbide tipped dead center,
it doesn't take much pressure to steady the work. A follow rest also
works, but can be a nuisance to use.

--
Regards,
Rich
========================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@...


========================================

Not sure if this is of any help:





Frank Hoose


--- pyapster <pyapster@...> wrote:

hi

can anyone suggest a site that explains how to set
up and use a
vernier height gauge? appreciate any help.

Peter



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Don't be overly concerned about true inch leadscrews.
The main (threading) leadscrew on the 7x lathes is
true inch. The cross feed and compound are 1mm pitch
with the calibrated wheels having 40 divisions. The
margin of error is very small (each rotation of the
handwheel is actually .03937 inches instead of .04000
inches and a single division is thus .000984 inches
rather than .00100 inches). Since you will no doubt
measure your work with "inch" measuring tools, the
error becomes negligible.

Frank Hoose



--- roylowenthal <roylowenthal@...> wrote:

There's some comparisons here:

Some of the confusion about bed length may come
from the tailstock
not being able to seat a standard dead center unless
the ram is
extended an inch or so. Also, the headstock taper
is a bit
undersize, causing the center to stick out farther
than it really
should.
IIRC, there's a 9x20 group.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@...,
haplesstechnoweenie
<haplesstechnoweenie@c...> wrote:

I also was thinking of getting one of these

machines. I am
currently trying

to figure out if I want one of the 9x20 lathes or

7xX. Wonder if
anyone in

this group has purchased one yet. I would love to

hear a
compairison

between it and the 7x12. I love the idea of true

inch lead
screws. I would

like to have the 9x20 in true inch. Any thoughts

on this will be
much

appreciated.

Ben

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<<<<<<<<The idea of scrap yard material isn't

a bad one. Let me know if you find a good cheap source. >>>>>>



i use local scrapyards all the time, our local one always has plenty of
brass and aluminium offcuts and sells by the pound[
weight] i know him well and he just lets me sort out what i want, pay and
take it away.

There's some comparisons here:

Some of the confusion about bed length may come from the tailstock
not being able to seat a standard dead center unless the ram is
extended an inch or so. Also, the headstock taper is a bit
undersize, causing the center to stick out farther than it really
should.
IIRC, there's a 9x20 group.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., haplesstechnoweenie
<haplesstechnoweenie@c...> wrote:

I also was thinking of getting one of these machines. I am

currently trying

to figure out if I want one of the 9x20 lathes or 7xX. Wonder if

anyone in

this group has purchased one yet. I would love to hear a

compairison

between it and the 7x12. I love the idea of true inch lead

screws. I would

like to have the 9x20 in true inch. Any thoughts on this will be

much

appreciated.

Ben

Use a dead center or a high-bucks live center that doesn't have a
large diameter bearing housing. With a carbide tipped dead center,
it doesn't take much pressure to steady the work. A follow rest also
works, but can be a nuisance to use.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Richard Kleinhenz
<woodnpen@o...> wrote:

When you mount a (fairly standard, from HF) live center in the

tailstock, and have a small diameter workpiece, how do you arrange
your tooling to be able to turn it? I have a TS Eng. QC toolpost.
The large body of the live center prevents me to get close enough
with the tool. If I extend the tool out, naturally it just flexes.
I use a 5/16" indexable tool from LMS, the cheapie version. The
workpiece is 3/8" or 1/2" steel rod. I think I read if you have more
the 2-3 diameters extending from the chuck, you need to support the
end. So anything over an inch or so needs support.

Do I need to use a different tool holder for this type of work?
t
--
Regards,
Rich
========================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@o...


========================================

I bought one a couple of months ago. It works very well. The digital
readout has been very handy and their cam-lock tailstock is great.
I certainly would recommend one.

There is something to be said for a large tool bit (1/2" in our case)
clamped to the top slide in the British style with a rocker style clamp
and a stack of shims on the other side! Room and rigidity.

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

When you mount a (fairly standard, from HF) live center in the tailstock, and have a small diameter workpiece, how do you arrange your tooling to be able to turn it? I have a TS Eng. QC toolpost. The large body of the live center prevents me to get close enough with the tool. If I extend the tool out, naturally it just flexes. I use a 5/16" indexable tool from LMS, the cheapie version. The workpiece is 3/8" or 1/2" steel rod. I think I read if you have more the 2-3 diameters extending from the chuck, you need to support the end. So anything over an inch or so needs support.

Do I need to use a different tool holder for this type of work?
t
--
Regards,
Rich
========================================
Richard Kleinhenz
mailto:woodnpen@...


========================================

For external threads, Fowler (IIRC), makes a micrometer attachment
consisting of 2 triangular prisms with little elastic thingies that
hold them to the micrometer spindle & anvil. Each prism has 3
different sized flatted points, so they'll fit a wide thread range.
The set comes with a set of tables to convert measured size to
equivalent thread dimensions. They work best with a non-rotating
spindle micrometer.
There also used to be a single triangular prism, again with
different sized flatted points, that SPI made. It didn't mount to
the micrometer - it has a little wire handle.
Owning both of these gems, I usually go for the wires & lump of
modeling clay!

Roy

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "mikeaita1" <aita1@a...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Richard Albers"
<rralbers@j...> wrote:

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "mikeaita1" <aita1@a...>

wrote:

thanks everyone for helping
i finally cut some respectable threads today
mike aita

Congrats! I know how elated I felt when I first cut something

that

looked as good as "the pictures in the book". :-)

Of course, you realize that few items really need the precision

of

single-point cut threads (few of mine, at least). I just cut

threads

that way because I CAN!

Do you have any unthreaded round stock left? ;-)

RA

Actually I cut 9/16 12 coarse threads for a fixture i need for an
invention i am working on. the coarse threads are very forgiving.
A remaining issue is knowing when the threads are deep enough.
Taking the tailstock off to try the nut is NOT the way to go,
although with a coarse thread I found I could realign the setup.
Putting the fine edge of a caliper in the threads seemed to work

for

coarse threads.
Seems like some simple attachments to the caliper could be made to
work for fine threads and even internal threads. Is such a thing
offered for sale or do I need to make it?
Thanks again for your help.
mike