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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "jvswan" <jason@v...> wrote:
Check out the one that Little Machine Shop offers for $99.00 from
T.S. Engineering, it is a nice cam action quick change tool post.

Lee Brown

Hi:

I've just joined the list and I have found many comments touting

the benefits of

a quick change tool post. Being on a limited budget, though, I was

wondering

if the model sold by Harbor Freight

(

Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42806) is worth the $85. Has anyone

tried the

set? Any problems? It appears to come with some great attacments

and

tools. I hate to do things on the cheap, but there are other tools

I need, and

money is limited. Any comments or suggestions would be really

appreciated.

Thanks,

Jason Swan

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "jvswan" <jason@v...> wrote:
Check out the one that Little Machine Shop offers for $99.00 from
T.S. Engineering, it is a nice cam action quick change tool post.

Lee Brown

Hi:

I've just joined the list and I have found many comments touting

the benefits of

a quick change tool post. Being on a limited budget, though, I was

wondering

if the model sold by Harbor Freight

(

Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42806) is worth the $85. Has anyone

tried the

set? Any problems? It appears to come with some great attacments

and

tools. I hate to do things on the cheap, but there are other tools

I need, and

money is limited. Any comments or suggestions would be really

appreciated.

Thanks,

Jason Swan

Mike,
Not really, I have two different editions and they are pretty much
the same, except the CNC part.

Jerry

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., Jerry Smith <jfsmith@a...>
wrote:

Mike,
You might want to get a copy of Machining Fundamentals

John R. Walker

I got mine on www.half.com for about $16.00, I found the companion

workbook

for $5.00 there also. Got lots of pretty pictures and high school

level tests.

You may want to find a semi retired machinist and offer to

sweep

his floors, after a bit, you will be invited to help in some really

amazing

things.

Jerry

Thanks for the tip. There are a ton of walker books available. Does
the edition matter. Thanks again.
mike

Mike,
You might want to get a copy of Machining Fundamentals John R. Walker
I got mine on www.half.com for about $16.00, I found the companion workbook for $5.00 there also. Got lots of pretty pictures and high school level tests.
You may want to find a semi retired machinist and offer to sweep his floors, after a bit, you will be invited to help in some really amazing things.

Jerry

Please recommend some books
I am having trouble threading
thanks
mike aita

Still believe that the USA is the country of unlimited opportunities.
Would be happy to get a real advice from professionals in the
International Cargo Transportation Business while I'm establishing my
small agency in Maryland.
Dmitriy
info@...

I've got one. It's nowhere near as nice as an Aloris, but, it
works.
To get useable height adjustment, the top of the compound has to
be lowered about 3/16", either by milling the plinth down or by
milling the bottom of the pivoting part of the compound. There are
details on the 7x10 site.
The tool holders are non-standard. Other QCTPs have the opposite
gender dovetail on the tool holder. If you want more holders, you
have to either make them or try to buy them as repair parts.
Under knurling (or parting) pressure, the base tends to rotate
enough to keep the tool from working. Chalking the bottom is enough
for parting; I think a scissors style knurl is probably going to be
the right fix.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "jvswan" <jason@v...> wrote:

Hi:

I've just joined the list and I have found many comments touting

the benefits of

a quick change tool post. Being on a limited budget, though, I was

wondering

if the model sold by Harbor Freight

(

Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42806) is worth the $85. Has anyone

tried the

set? Any problems? It appears to come with some great attacments

and

tools. I hate to do things on the cheap, but there are other tools

I need, and

money is limited. Any comments or suggestions would be really

appreciated.

Thanks,

Jason Swan

Hi Jason,
I have this QCTP set bought about 6 months ago(from
) and I am very happy with it

Regards
Ken
/ /
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&#92; &#92;'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''||
&#92; &#92;

From: "jvswan" <jason@...>
Reply-To: 7x12minilathe@...
To: 7x12minilathe@...
Subject: [7x12minilathe] QCTP question
Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2003 17:47:07 -0000

Hi:

I've just joined the list and I have found many comments touting the
benefits of
a quick change tool post. Being on a limited budget, though, I was
wondering
if the model sold by Harbor Freight (
Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42806) is worth the $85. Has anyone tried the
set? Any problems? It appears to come with some great attacments and
tools. I hate to do things on the cheap, but there are other tools I need,
and
money is limited. Any comments or suggestions would be really appreciated.

Thanks,

Jason Swan

_________________________________________________________________
Overloaded with spam? With MSN 8, you can filter it out



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi:

I've just joined the list and I have found many comments touting the benefits of
a quick change tool post. Being on a limited budget, though, I was wondering
if the model sold by Harbor Freight (
Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42806) is worth the $85. Has anyone tried the
set? Any problems? It appears to come with some great attacments and
tools. I hate to do things on the cheap, but there are other tools I need, and
money is limited. Any comments or suggestions would be really appreciated.

Thanks,

Jason Swan

The barbell weight wasn't an original idea! I used a 2 1/2# one
from Walmart; it was cheap & had the least amount of detail cast in.
I'd expected it to warp when the "skin" was machined off, it did, but
not when both sides were faced; turning the outside to finished
diameter was the stress unlocker. Next time, I'll rough machine all
the surfaces before finishing any of them.
The other nuisance was from bolting it directly to the spindle.
Without a face plate to act as a dust shield, the illuminated power
switch collected enough fine, conductive swarf to not turn off! The
lathe would keep running at minimum speed, increasing the speed would
draw enough more current to let it turn off.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote:

Hi Roy,

Thanks for the input. Glad to hear you were able to reach near

the

backplate using overhang without too much chatter. After thinking
about it some more I made the chuck with about 1 inch protruding.

My

thought is that if it doesn't work out this way I'll make the mods
you suggested and re-work the chuck to make it shorter -- I found
making the steep taper was fairly easy and shortening the chuck

just

requires more passes with the boring bar.

I thought your use of a barbell weight for a backplate was very
interesting. I tend to make most things from "found" material and
interestingly the collet chuck is made from the bar of a barbell;

it

had a raised part to which I added a thread with the idea of making

a

large nut to fit this thread for collet chuck extraction. I used

16

threads per inch which, now that I look at it, seems like it may be

a

finer thread than would normally be used for this application.

(This

was my first try at threading and it went surprisingly well.) If it
doesn't work out I'll turn it down a bit and use a coarser thread.

The taper attachment is from a pdf file at mlprojects:

LongTaper.pdf.

I added some pictures and notes about my minilathe adaptation of

it

on my site:

The taper attachment remains a work in progress. I'm watching the
landfill for a better piece of angle iron; once I find that I'll

move

the arms toward the chuck a bit and add braces from the arms to the
lathe legs to make it more rigid. It works but the taper it

produces

isn't perfect because of flexing in the mount so I end up finishing
the tapers with a file to get them to fit properly. This isn't a
fault in the taper fixture design, rather a fault in my
implementation and the materials I used.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@y...> wrote:

Which taper attachment did you make?
The motor enclosure can be modified to clear the carriage & an
extension shaft made for the handwheel to allow the carriage to
travel closer to the HS. When I made a chuck mounting plate from

a

barbell weight, I bolted it directly to the spindle & used tool
protrusion & the compound to reach. Chatter was less of a

problem

than I'd expected.
For both rigidity & work length, I'd keep collet protrusion as
short as possible. The Loctite should work fine, degrease the
threads thoroughly first; brake cleaner works well. Even if it

comes

loose, it'll be annoying, not catastrophic.

Roy

Hi Roy,

Thanks for the input. Glad to hear you were able to reach near the
backplate using overhang without too much chatter. After thinking
about it some more I made the chuck with about 1 inch protruding. My
thought is that if it doesn't work out this way I'll make the mods
you suggested and re-work the chuck to make it shorter -- I found
making the steep taper was fairly easy and shortening the chuck just
requires more passes with the boring bar.

I thought your use of a barbell weight for a backplate was very
interesting. I tend to make most things from "found" material and
interestingly the collet chuck is made from the bar of a barbell; it
had a raised part to which I added a thread with the idea of making a
large nut to fit this thread for collet chuck extraction. I used 16
threads per inch which, now that I look at it, seems like it may be a
finer thread than would normally be used for this application. (This
was my first try at threading and it went surprisingly well.) If it
doesn't work out I'll turn it down a bit and use a coarser thread.

The taper attachment is from a pdf file at mlprojects: LongTaper.pdf.
I added some pictures and notes about my minilathe adaptation of it
on my site:

The taper attachment remains a work in progress. I'm watching the
landfill for a better piece of angle iron; once I find that I'll move
the arms toward the chuck a bit and add braces from the arms to the
lathe legs to make it more rigid. It works but the taper it produces
isn't perfect because of flexing in the mount so I end up finishing
the tapers with a file to get them to fit properly. This isn't a
fault in the taper fixture design, rather a fault in my
implementation and the materials I used.

John


--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "roylowenthal"
<roylowenthal@y...> wrote:

Which taper attachment did you make?
The motor enclosure can be modified to clear the carriage & an
extension shaft made for the handwheel to allow the carriage to
travel closer to the HS. When I made a chuck mounting plate from a
barbell weight, I bolted it directly to the spindle & used tool
protrusion & the compound to reach. Chatter was less of a problem
than I'd expected.
For both rigidity & work length, I'd keep collet protrusion as
short as possible. The Loctite should work fine, degrease the
threads thoroughly first; brake cleaner works well. Even if it

comes

loose, it'll be annoying, not catastrophic.

Roy

Which taper attachment did you make?
The motor enclosure can be modified to clear the carriage & an
extension shaft made for the handwheel to allow the carriage to
travel closer to the HS. When I made a chuck mounting plate from a
barbell weight, I bolted it directly to the spindle & used tool
protrusion & the compound to reach. Chatter was less of a problem
than I'd expected.
For both rigidity & work length, I'd keep collet protrusion as
short as possible. The Loctite should work fine, degrease the
threads thoroughly first; brake cleaner works well. Even if it comes
loose, it'll be annoying, not catastrophic.

Roy
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote:

In looking for projects which involve my recently completed taper
fixture, I have decided on a 3C collet chuck to fit the MT3 on the
minilathe -- this based on reading pdf files on the net.

As a newbie I immediately began making chips rather than carefully
planning how the chuck would be used. Now that I've made the taper
and have started working on the chuck itself, a number of questions
have arisen.

The pdf articles assume that the tool can be positioned right up to
the chuck backplate. The minilathe seems to expect the chuck to be
used for all workholding; when positioning more toward the

headstock

(as when using the collet chuck) the rear of the carriage contacts
the motor enclosure and the carriage handle contacts the

electronics

enclosure, this when the tool is about an inch from the backplate.
Greater overhang of the compound is one possibility for improvment
but I am concerned that this will increase tool chatter.

Should I make the socket so the end of the collet will be an inch

or

so from the backplate? My understanding of collets is that they

work

well partly because they are closer to the headstock - will this
extended collet chuck make my setup less useful?

For the closer my current plan is to turn and thread a short piece

to

fit the thread on the 3C and then thread/loctite this to a piece of
pipe and add a collar and handle to allow tightening. (The reason

I

don't plan to thread the pipe itself is that I get a poor finish on
some steel so I plan to use steel which takes a good finish for
contact with the collets.) Is this a reasonable plan? Will the
loctite stand up to this use?

John

I have a faceplate I bought with my lathe for just such a thing to
come along.
Many thanks for pointing this out.

Jerry

Follow the link from the mini-lathe.com home page

Frank Hoose

Plex (Methyl Methacrylate) is available in rod and bar. Try Rohm and
Hass acrylic or look for Lexan.

Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

In looking for projects which involve my recently completed taper
fixture, I have decided on a 3C collet chuck to fit the MT3 on the
minilathe -- this based on reading pdf files on the net.

As a newbie I immediately began making chips rather than carefully
planning how the chuck would be used. Now that I've made the taper
and have started working on the chuck itself, a number of questions
have arisen.

The pdf articles assume that the tool can be positioned right up to
the chuck backplate. The minilathe seems to expect the chuck to be
used for all workholding; when positioning more toward the headstock
(as when using the collet chuck) the rear of the carriage contacts
the motor enclosure and the carriage handle contacts the electronics
enclosure, this when the tool is about an inch from the backplate.
Greater overhang of the compound is one possibility for improvment
but I am concerned that this will increase tool chatter.

Should I make the socket so the end of the collet will be an inch or
so from the backplate? My understanding of collets is that they work
well partly because they are closer to the headstock - will this
extended collet chuck make my setup less useful?

For the closer my current plan is to turn and thread a short piece to
fit the thread on the 3C and then thread/loctite this to a piece of
pipe and add a collar and handle to allow tightening. (The reason I
don't plan to thread the pipe itself is that I get a poor finish on
some steel so I plan to use steel which takes a good finish for
contact with the collets.) Is this a reasonable plan? Will the
loctite stand up to this use?

John

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "bbftx" <bflint@a...> wrote:

Mike,
What kind of engineer were you?
I was a mech e and worked in the oil patch for a while.

I'm not from Milwaukee, but the least expensive place to get raw
material would be a local scrap yard or metal recycling place.

Look

for aluminum, brass, or mild steel you can scratch with a file.

If you there is some specific material you want, there are some
online places you can order small quantities from:
www.metalmart.com
www.onlinemetals.com
They are convenient in that you can get exactly what you want, but
you'll pay more for it.
Good luck
B Flint

I have worked in medical devices and electro optics
I'm still working on a medical device invention in the basement,
hence the need for a lathe and maybe a mill. In addition to AL and
brass, I'm looking for some UV light transmitting material i can
machine. Sheets are easy to find; I need a rod.
mike

Mike,
What kind of engineer were you?
I was a mech e and worked in the oil patch for a while.

I'm not from Milwaukee, but the least expensive place to get raw
material would be a local scrap yard or metal recycling place. Look
for aluminum, brass, or mild steel you can scratch with a file.

If you there is some specific material you want, there are some
online places you can order small quantities from:
www.metalmart.com
www.onlinemetals.com
They are convenient in that you can get exactly what you want, but
you'll pay more for it.
Good luck
B Flint

try LONDON TAP AND DIE COMPANY


DAVID WILLIAMS
BOLTON
ENGLAND
www.smartgroups.com/groups/PRE78BMW
davidalan@...