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# of starts per hour, and the state between starts are also significant issues. Every time you start a motor, until the motor is up to speed, you are adding a big bunch of heat energy into the windings and steel. Roughly 3-10 times what you get at full load. {yes the current is probably 6x or less, but most of the input power at load is being turned into output power at the shaft, at startup 100% of the input power is turning into either heat, or noise, OTOH not all of that current represents real power, some is “reactive power”} You also have NO airflow at that point, so no cooling. So if you start and stop the motor, all of that heat has to work its way out through the case of the motor. If you start and let it run unloaded for a while, the internal (or external) fan draws air over the motor and through the windings cooling them significantly faster, which means the insulation never gets as hot. And heat is the enemy of insulation life. In big motors you might be limited to 3 starts in an hour. Really big motors that might be two or three in a day. The typical rule of thumb is a 10 deg C rise in average temperature, cuts your expected equipment life in half. Alans comment on the motors is spot on. Absent any certification, you have no idea what (if any) of the numbers on the nameplate are realistic. R James (Jim) Klessig P.E. | Senior Power Systems Engineer | Electrical Reliability Services, VERTIV jim.klessig@..., jim_klessig@... 1876 Gwin Rd, Mckinleyville | CA | 95519 | USA | Cell (707) 497-9611 | eFax 614-410-0653

Hi Guys I've revised the documents on 'Fixing vertical squareness...' and "Buying a used 4x6...' and they ARE added to the Files section. If you're in the habit of copying docs to your home drive then pls download the new versions as they're quite different.

Those overload relays are intended to be used with an external contactor that actually controls the motor I would not really want to use that overload contact to control any motor drawing over ~1.5A @ full load. Even then for proper sensing you ought to run your current through all three legs. In particular I would not use this one, since the design is intended to have the realy mount directly into the contactor. The three “legs” coming out the top are not terminals and there is no way for you to connect to them. They are intended to slide into the contact terminals of a matching contactor. Also this rather suspiciously does not show you the FRONT of the relay, where the real manufacturer of those images is, and I suspect you would actually get something rather lower in quality. Here is an image that shows that style of relay as it is intended to be used. https://www.eaton.com/SEAsia/ProductsSolutions/Electrical/ProductsServices/AutomationControl/MotorControlProtection/OverloadRelays/index.htm Here are a couple more suitable type solutions https://www.amazon.com/Manual-Motor-Starter-Knob-10A/dp/B001V9TDPM/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=motor+starter+iec&qid=1612205644&s=hi&sr=1-12 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DBSJ6PS/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=Xwo61nJyyaiTbRflXhJ6EQ&hsa_cr_id=5607354140201&pd_rd_plhdr=t&pd_rd_r=efe199ae-1e7b-47fb-a8ee-7e23e595b8b5&pd_rd_w=nApJr&pd_rd_wg=LXnTl&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_0_img no endorsement intended. These are probably not UL or anyone else listed, but is a reputable manufacturer. {If that is actually what you get} Notice its price tag, and you would still need an enclosure. R James (Jim) Klessig P.E. | Senior Power Systems Engineer | Electrical Reliability Services, VERTIV jim.klessig@..., jim_klessig@... 1876 Gwin Rd, Mckinleyville | CA | 95519 | USA | Cell (707) 497-9611 | eFax 614-410-0653

Hi guys, Here’s a picture of the hydraulic downfeed cylinder I’ve just finished. i saw it on Halligans YouTube channel, I had been thinking about building one for a while. The design is from Machinists Workshop magazine. I got a copy of the mag, volume 28, number 5, & volume 29 number 2 with a follow up article which contains ideas that Halligan included from input from guys who viewed his videos. You could possibly build it with out the magazines but I figured I’d make less stuff ups with something to follow! I haven’t used it in anger yet, but after getting, I hope, all the air out it works well! Cheers Kerrin

As an alternative to making or buying new parts to go under the tension knob, you can also use a die grinder and files to spotface the area around the hole to make it perpendicular to the hole axis. Kurt Laughlin

I was dumb enough to accept when Joe offered to make me an owner of the group. ;) Enough people have said they'd kick in $5 to keep the group going, and have more space, that I've gone ahead and upgraded. I fronted the $220 (not $200 as I thought it was) for the upgrade. Once my payment processes, we'll have 20gb of space for documents, photos, and attachments. If you want to help me out, my PayPal address is wmrmeyers@... I can afford to pay $5, myself, so I need 43 donations of $5 via PayPal Friends and Family, or enough to cover the fees they charge if you don't want to do F&F. This gives us a year we don't have to worry too much about this, at least! Bill in OKC

Bill in OKC, I did have another individual step up and I’ve elevated him to Moderator. His name is Mike and I’ll let him chime in if he chooses to do so. Are you interested in becoming a Moderator? If so, let me know. In the meantime, I poked around a bit (dangerous thing to do, at least for me) and discovered that there was no restriction on the size of photos that could be uploaded. I took the liberty of setting a 1024 x 1024 size temporarily. We still need to address the elephant in the room, namely, do we need to poll the members (over 4,000) to see if enough donations can be collected to cover the $220.00 fee to upgrade the group or do we want it to remain “free”? If the group wishes to remain “free”, there’s going to have to be some serious “weeding” to do to the photos section, to reduce the size. I’m open to suggestions or solutions. Regards, Joe Melhorn Sahuarita, AZ 85629

Hi all Dave made several pleas for how to add photos and I find can't add Documents to the files section either. I said in the last msg about the Fix for Vertical Squareness' document I attached that I HAD added it to the files section, as that was going to be my next action and I'd done it before (last time in April), That was before I found I COULDN"T add it. Now Dave's new photos, that several members admired enough to msg back, are gone and if you didn't download the Fix... ' file its gone too I'm pretty sure its systemic so I sent the message below to the 'Help' email address on the home page Topic: 'Cant add photos or files' Message: ' I believe this is a software glitch as I was able to do it (last time April’20 for a File) Now the ‘+New’ button (in the Files section) delivers no dropdown box so you can’t proceed. There is now no facility to add new photos to existing albums, just to add new Albums . Photos and Files will attach to a message, and can be seen and read by other, but only temporarily and then they disappear. Photos also appear in a ‘Photos Attached to Messages” album but that’s only temporary too. You can create a new album as I did (Test album – to test whether can create a new album 10Dec20), and its open to all members to add to, BUT access to the ‘+Add Photos’ button is denied with a red circle slashed across. These functions are important to to operation of our group, pls help – John Vreede' Can some of you pls try to add a photo to that Test Album (very first one in the Photos section) and report back whether or not you could add to it,(maybe some people have access, but I suspect not). If the Moderator is watching this can you chime in too pls Thx - jv

John Vreede updated the album Test Album: Testing whether can create a new album 10Dec20

Hi all Here is the document as promised. Its posted in the Files section of the site too. Its long (17pgs!) and detailed, and should enable anyone to get their saw to cut vertically square. I apologise in advance if its too detailed for experts but this is for newbies too. This problem has defied being able to be fixed until now so I think background and detail is appropriate - jv

I've been trying to download pictures to the Photo Section. I can create a folder for my pictures, but I'm not allowed to download any. I just get a red circle with a slash through it when I hover above the soft key. I have tried this both on my PC and on my iPad. I get the same results. Can someone tell me what I'm doing wrong? Dave

Dear Group! I have been cutting and TIG / MIG welding ferritic steel tube steel successfully for several years, and I am now ready and very eager to finally strike an arc on stainless steel. The tube steel material I can envision working with is from 1/2" X 1/2" through 2" X 2" stainless tube steel with wall thickness from about 0.043" through around 0.13". Can I please get advice on the blade teeth / inch, saw blade speed and down force. My band saw only has a spring to sort of control down force, so I will be lowering the blade onto the material by hand and by feel only. I have an Harbor Freight 4" X 6" bandsaw that has served me very well on ferritic steel, and I want to be sure that I have a good idea for safely cutting stainless tube steel so I don't go ruining my blade before I blink an eye. And even worse - not know why it happened. Please help me by providing me with your advice on this subject. Thank you very much! John Hayden 开云体育 Links: You receive all messages sent to this group. View/Reply Online (#15468) | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute This Topic | New Topic Your Subscription | Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [johnjhayden@...] _._,_._,_

dpidwerbecki@... updated the album Dave P's Mods: This is a folder of the modifications that I did to my 4x6 bandsaw. I bought this bandsaw very used for $20. I've been trying to make it as good as or better than new.

I am new to this group and I just purchased my first 4 x 6 band saw. I purchased a fairly old band saw and I'm going through it to make it work right. The band saw is quite old, I think. It has a green paint, made in Taiwan, has no maker mark, and I believe, from the serial number, it could have been made in about 1983. I welded a new blade for it, cleaned it up, rewired the motor (now a Dayton 1/3 HP motor) so t is running the correct direction, changed the gear box oil, and adjusted the main pulleys, non moving vise jaw, and blade guides it so it will cut true. I also have been trying to adjust the down feed tension spring and realize that I need to make a hydraulic down feed. QUESTION: How do you measure "cut true?" I have been doing the following: 1. Cut a small piece of 1" diameter low carbon steel bar. 2. Rotate the bar and cut another piece 3. Measure the thickness of the piece multiple locations around the bar with a micrometer 4. Subtract the minimum reading from the maximum reading. I have measured max-min thickness of about 0.005" on my 1" bar sample. The main source of the variation is due to misalignment between the two blade alignment guides. I think that this can be improved by having a hydraulic down feed. I am also thinking of removing the flimsy legs and mounting the saw on a shop cart which has two trays below the saw for metal storage. Is this how you measure "cut true" on your saw?

I just wanted to share the mods I did for my 4x6. The blade brush wheel is made with a 1-1/4" wire brush wheel with 1/4" ID bore, 1/4" mini pillow block bearing, 1/4" x 1" long shoulder bolt, and a plastic spacer I turned on my mini lathe. The mounting bracket is made from a piece of sheet aluminum I had laying around. I painted it black after it was completed. When I was testing it out, I mounted the pillow block to the bracket with sheet metal screws which were later replaced by #10 machine screws, washers, lock washers and nuts. I cut aluminum a lot and It works very well at removing chips that get stuck in blade. The other blade brushes keep most of the chips from getting on the guide bearings and pulley. They are made from plastic wire brushes, mounted with metal strips and held by rare earth magnets. The pulley brushes are made from small brass wire brushes mounted to some 90° brackets that I bent open to about 150° and are also held by rare earth magnets. Using magnets allows me to flip the brushes around easily as they wear. All of these brushes might seem overkill, but the brushes that wipe the sides of the blade don't do well at removing chips from the teeth, hence the brush wheel. I can say the inside of the saw is staying about 90% cleaner than it was without them. The chip pan is a plastic mud pan from Home Depot. It had two black metal strips in it that are for scraping the mud from your mud knife. I cut these and used them for mounting the pan. It's mounted using screws already on the saw for the lock pin and power cord brackets on the inside. I used the slot in the chip pan to hold a piece of aluminum sheet to cover the area leading to underneath the saw, which allow the chips to fall through into the pan. I will add all of these pics to a folder in photos section, under Rob M.

As the subject says, we are small bandsaw maker from Taiwan and just wondering what will be the best size and purpose for all of you to use the vertical cutting table? Below is the current design for our product RF-128, it is not so perfect for normal users like you guys, some of customer even says it is too soft, just a thin plate looks like funny thing... Size is about 24x24cm, a black color of thin plate install on the roller guide Support unit is underneath A bit curved if slight push it or have any small loading We would like to know what is your ideal dimension for this table? and what tasks you often to do with this vertical table? Share with us your comments here!! Appreciate~~ #vertical table #RF-128 Vertical cutting #Vertical cutting table #4x6 vertical cutting

Anyone know of a good source of replacement blade guide bearings? The ones on my saw have gotten very noisy. The bearing spindle has an eccentric for adjustment. With an internal hex for allen wrench. Do all of the import saws use this type of guide bearing?

The following files have been uploaded to the Files area of the [email protected] group. /HorizVert-Band-Saw-Circa-1983.pdf By: Terry Lund Description: Generic Bandsaw Mfg 1983, Serial # 000756 Made in Taiwan. Omitted scanning p 2 Safety Rules for All Tools and pp 19-20 "cartoonish" Safety Rules for Stationary Power Tools. I can scan those if anybody needs them for a complete copy.