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Jay, This is one "metalshaper"s videos, covering a crankshaft installation. He has another one that covers the rear seal issues, using the "rubber" ones, as compared to the rope one that is covered

Going to pull the engine back out and go through it again. [email protected]> wrote:

Did you check clearance with plastigage? Also, did any of the main caps get swapped to the wrong position? They're align honed at the factory and cannot be mix up. They can be checked with mics and

Jay, Were you able to isolate the problem by removing the rear seal, for example, to see how it behaved with withe the front and rear mains tightened? Probably the problem is still there. If so,

Hi Dan, Very repairable and does not look horrible. But again, it needs to be magnafluxed to look for any cracks and then machined as it is a used crank. I have not looked but if replacement

Lew, The setup with Kaiser, or Clegg being another option, is both charge a deposit and want your old crank to redo. Though I'm no expert, I expect the repair would require welding and re grinding.

Hi Dan et al, If the crank is good and checks out with no cracks, then why replace it. If it has a lot of miles on it, it will need to be turned for oversize bearing. The same can be done with

If it fails again, take it to a glass shop. I'm pretty sure they would apply some urethane in it for you for free. (Maybe stop I at a truck tire shop and see if you could get a little piece of truck

It might be a whole lot easier to use a speedy sleave

Is this an on going thread as I haven't seen earlier stuff, but I am dealing with an F134 crankshaft issue my self. Had the block machined and crank+cam polished and put it together. The crank will

???????? Back when I was still in 'single digits' my Dad and his brother swapped the flat head from his '42 GPW and replaced it with an 'F' head engine. That necessitated a hole being cut in

Going ahead with the crankshaft replacement, in order to get a non corroded surface for the rear main seal. With good help, the engine is out. Looked for other issues, fortunately, the valves look

How to seal the actuator up?? It seems likely that the diaphragm will fail again, so bending the circumference flange back to the factory sealed position might be unwise.? Instead, I made up six

I had no luck with Special Interest Auto. Here's the simple repair of the leaking diaphragm using an ancient bike inner tube repair kit.? How long will it last; how long until the next failure of

Hello community, I have been around the group for a while. I am putting back together an F134 and I am missing the oil pick up tube and screen. Any7 body has an extra one that you are willing to part

Jim, I'll contact them, thanks. Until then, here's a look inside the actuator - not difficult to open with a small screw driver and then wire cutters.? It seems the very simple rubber diaphragm that

Try Special interest Auto Rockwell TX. 800-634-2469 Did mine…works perfect

The spiral bevel axle has 2 grease seals on the axle, the inner is at the end of the axle tube behind the bearing and the outer seals on the wheel hub. The axle splined end mates with the axle gear

maybe useful, in the archive at groups.io, there are 60-70 posts about timkin axles. Dan