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In the last message I mentioned the excellent phone support from Rustoleum concerning their high temperature paint, where they wanted to make a paint job work, but causing a domestic issue with use of

Dan, I salute you for doing your best to bring the heart of your old Willys back to life. Of course, as Donald Rumsfeld pointed out all those years ago, in any endeavour there are “Known knowns",

So, not remembering what I shared before, so going to repeat some. Have a bad case of scope creep. The original desire was to fix a leaky rear seal situation. The crankshaft was rusted/corroded

Not seeing any other answers, here's mine- if you were here in Eugene, OR, there would be a choice of three auto electric shops you could choose from. I am guessing that there are (still) similar

I have a 1957 station wagon converted to 12v. I would like to keep the old stater that went toes up. Any recommendations where I can send it for rebuild?

Please remove my flatfender@... <mailto:flatfender@...> from you contact list. My new email address is dan.flatfender@... <mailto:dan.flatfender@...> . The old address

Update, I got the new seal and I can turn the engine over by hand with the plugs out with 40 lbs pressure but my starter will not turn the motor over. I think my next move is a gear reduction from

Well if you had been a year earlier I had a decent one that I tried to sell for years but I made it into a work bench last winter.

That very good news Gavin! Let's hope you can find a "new" tailgate... I had mine repaired with new lower sheet metal and stainless steel hinge.? Repairing the tailgate bottom wasn't difficult

After a 26-year nap, my grandfather's 62 Willys Wagon fired and ran this past weekend. We are still working on the brakes, permanent fuel setup, and getting it to idle. I am looking for a good used

Jay, That's great news. It is very likely that KW sells the Best seals as part #800099, and they will probably work well, provided that they are recent stock. The KW parts folks do not want to

Ok I think I have it. It's the rear seal took it out and put the race in with out one and it turned freely. Am I safe to get one from KW as ebay ones are too thick and so is a

Yes I've done that and as I add each part it gets stiffer. The main issue is the valves and cam. Today I'm going to pull the head and remove an exhaust valve and intake vsl e to see if the machinest

The crankshaft should indeed turn easily before the pistons and timing gear are installed. The main bearing caps aren't interchangeable, and need to be installed the right way around. Three main

Jay, Beyond my expertise, but here goes. If you watch the Metalshaper videos, there are some things shown that may provide ideas. One is that the crankshaft should turn quite easily by hand before

The machine shop only bored out the cylinders 30 over, did valves and polished cam and crank. He assembled the valves in the head but that was it. I put it back together. I've tried 2 sets of crank

Jay, Hope you will get a better answer than this. If you look at your Kaiser Willys catalog, page 248, know you've been there- look at the pictures for line 18/19-the exhaust valves for both the

So an update to my F134 having issues with needing too much pressure to turn it over. I pulled the engine again, and through extensive tril and error found that I can turn it over by hand wit 38 ftlbs

OK, have one of the original paint job, the guy is my painter friend, now he's 71. [cid:0045d00a-b45e-4691-956d-11bda567598b] This is a scan of a dusty slide, so the marks on the white paint are

Ok stories like this NEEDS PHOTOS! wrote: