开云体育

Are they 2 wheel drive?

----------

From: Tea Herb Farm <therbfrm@...>
To: willystech@...
Subject: [WT] [Off Topic] Land Rover's Cheap!
Date: Friday, June 25, 1999 3:05 AM

From: Tea Herb Farm <therbfrm@...>

Since Willys inspired the creation of Land Rover this is not really too

off

topic. Note the flat grill and fenders and that hood looks familiar

too!!!

MVP
'53 Wagon 4X$

_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/
TEA HERB FARM
Browse Our Secure Online Seed Catalog
0ver 4000 Seeds -- 750 Dried Herbs

2332 Tea Road
Tea, Missouri, USA 63091-1819


MAILTO:therbfrm@...
PHONE-(573)437-3053 FAX-(573)437-3053
_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/


------------------------------------------------------------------------
_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/
WillysTech

NEW! Parts Buy/Sell/Swap Board

Vehicle FAQ Sheets

Parts Resource List

_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/

HERE IS THE PICTURE OF MY JEEP THAT I FINALLY GOT DEVELOPED

_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/
WillysTech

NEW! Parts Buy/Sell/Swap Board

Vehicle FAQ Sheets

Parts Resource List

_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/

_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit

--- Rick48CJ2A@... wrote:

John, My small parts kit only included the balls as well. I think it would
be kinda hard to damage the spring. I hope to get to this tonight.

Isn't that kind of wierd? The manuals all say to replace the spring. It's not the balls which
wear out.

Reed (CA)
===



_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at

Jordan, I have to say I'm sorry for not following this thread carefully from the beginning.

--- Jordan Franklin <franklin@...> wrote:

I did a little measuring and comparing specs based on the
information posted by Robert Wolfe and others. Bearing in
mind I only have a dial caliper and a shaky hand but here goes.

My block has a single "A" by the second and third cylinders and
a pair (sort of like "A A") next to the first and fourth.

The crankshaft connection rod journals measured 1.918, 1.1918, 1.923,
and 1.920 in that order.

One would hope the "1.1918" was a typo.

The manual indicates 1.9375 as the spec.

If my math doesn't fail that means I am somewhere near 0.020" under.
Assuming some wear that would jive with the quoted code.

Well, you could easily be off on the measurements, but .020" under would be 1.918" (assuming it
was reground to the top of the tolerance). And the wear is not going to *increase* the diameter.

The main bearings measured 2.295", 2.304", and 2.303" from front to
back. The book spec is 2.333" to 2.334". This would be something
like .038" or 0.029" under sized.

OK, so the front is .040" under, and the other two are .030" under.

Again I would like to explain

0.010" of the undersize as the original machining and the rest as
wear (maybe wishful thinking).

.020>.030 under, from wear?

I also measured the cylinder bores and they are all within a few
thousandths of the spec of 3.125 the worst is 3.132. This based
on the code would agree with the adsence of "B's".

You mean the absence of any mark, don't you? BTW, how were you measuring the bores, from the top?
If so, remember the lands at the top show no wear, as the rings don't reach them.

Based on the code I've haven't figured the "A A" thing, but maybe
that's just a second punch to make sure the mark was readable.

No. You wouldn't stamp another along side.(unless perhaps in some 3rd world country) You put the
stamp back into it's original position, and hit it again.

Well, just a little observational data to further the discussion.

As I said above, I haven't followed your thread, so I don't know what you're up to. But if you
are considering really finding out the condition of your engine, you can't do it with a pair of
calipers.Particularly inside measurements are easily off, just by not getting the tips perfectly
parallel with the bore . . you need at least the appropriate mikes and a set of telescoping
gauges. And even then, telescoping gauges are difficult to measure accurately with, unless you
have some experience using them.

I hope I'm not sounding hypercritical of your attempt. It is only meant to explain, and help in
your endeavor,

Reed (CA)


===



_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at

From: Paul & Judy Kiel <lupa@...>

I just bought a 1955 Willys pickup, I'm interested in knowing other people
with pickups for information on whether to restore or convert it to a 4x4
off-road machine. The pickup is in about 90% original condition with all
good condition parts, but it has a V-8 motor. I'm still researching the
V.I.N. numbers as well as planning an attack strategy.

I made the mistake of buying a 1972 Jeep C-J 5 without research, it cost me
a lot of money and even more time, but the results were worth the effort. I
would just like to get more info and sugestions before I "Dive In"!

Thanks - Paul

Is the basic question then about how much effort it will take to make
the truck an 'off-road machine'? If you've already built up a CJ5 then
you should know most of the issues, the rest is dependent upon what you
want out of it.

Here's a quick list:
.......
The stock T90 three speed will not survive long behind the V8 if driven
with vigor. Many options are available, depending upon what you want.

The axles/brakes will work for you, to a point. For hard driving you
will want to upgrade both.

The xfer will work, has low gears, but is not as strong as some other
options

The suspension can be left alone or replace the springs to match what
you want.

The stock steering has some advantages, but a move to power may be
desired.

......
That's a bit more than what you'd have to do with a later model
Chevy/Ford/Dodge pickup but it's not that much and they aren't without
their issues as well (ugly being the biggest one).

You can do these things wholesale, or over time; especially if it's a
solid runner now. Then you can toss another axle under the front in a
weekend and do the next step months later. My rig was not when I got it
(came as yours -- stock except for the SBC) but I got pissed of
constantly dealing with all the little problems it had so I tore it to
the frame and have been slowly putting it back together. I've been able
to slowly aquire the needed parts by watching for the deals and plan on
putting together a solid machine without an excess of money (time's
another issue -- but that's mostly a factor of my lifestyle). Just for
reference I'm working toward a rig with a Chevy 350 and SM420 tranny,
the model 18 xfer/Warn OD/PTO, D44 front D60 rear, power brakes and
steering, PTO winch, and I've sadistically decided to put coils/4-links
on both ends. If I dropped the tranny/xfer for an SM465/NP205 I'd have
a bullet-proof rig with less thought but less personality.



--
========================================
Jeff Gent, jeffgent@...
----------------------------------------

I got hit is the head with the one ball I could get out. I'm still looking for it. I have been told rails have an interlock. I'm trying to move them to get the other ball and spring out. I have friend coming over this afternoon to show me how. He said it was not a problem so I should have it done this afternoon. I'll let you know. Thanks again for the instructions. By the way balls came in the small parts kit but springs didn't.

John D. (OK)
M-38

Only since it was a recent topic on the list:



Don't go overboard. I don't know what the current price is.

Reed (CA)
===



_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at

On Fri, 25 Jun 1999, Paul & Judy Kiel wrote:

I just bought a 1955 Willys pickup, I'm interested in knowing other
people with pickups for information on whether to restore or convert
it to a 4x4 off-road machine. The pickup is in about 90% original
condition with all good condition parts, but it has a V-8 motor. I'm

Since it already has a non-original engine in it, you may as well do
whatever you want with it.

If you have a 4WD pickup, there's not much to do to make it
off-roadworthy. :} If you have a 2WD, you will have much more work. What
sort of conversion are you planning?

The pickups aren't as nimble as the CJs, but then, you can carry a lot
more stuff in them.

My 51 has the wicker headliner.....

although it is now in pieces and i am looking for a replacement.........

I live in Arizona and I'm still dreaming finding the motherload of rust free
Willys. I think that Arizona had less than a million people during the
years of Willys production. There are a few that were purchased here, but
not anywhere near the number in other parts of the country. Most of those
I've found look like they came into the state long after AMC ate Kaiser. My
pickup is from California and my wagon is from New Mexico!

Rick G. in AZ

I think the wicker inset panels were factory on some models. I can't
remember where I learned that.

Rick G. in AZ

In a message dated 6/25/99 7:00:22 PM Central Daylight Time, recary@...
writes:

<<
I would try to scan the section tonight, Rick, but my scanner son is out of
town. I have a
hand-held scanner - but......(You're not gonna believe this! This machine
was a hand-me-down, with
all of the software included. I can't figure out more that a little bit of
it. And with Corel
Photo, I can't figure out how to get out of it, or do anything right in it!
The menu bar doesn't
come up, so I end up having to use Control-Alt-Delete, to get out.

I'll give it a try though.

Later,

Reed >>

Great Reed, That would be a big help. Thanks

Rick

Mark,
Do you think it would be possible to include in the introduction, a list of
popular sites and the FAQs.

Rick

DDDservice@... wrote:

From: DDDservice@...

As far as safety chains are concerned, IMHO what you really need to protect
against is ball/coupler or ball/hitch separation. This is probably the most
common point of tow bar failure. Both of which are handled by tow bar to
hitch safey chain. My particular solution is actually a 12' towing chain
which is looped between vehicles during towing. After towing, it gets stowed
back in its bag so it can be used for other purposes (like winching out).
As far as the stowed position, can't you just add a hole to the tow bar
bracket and tow bar to use a hitch pin to hold in the 90 degree position?

On my 2A I have three chains, one welded to the towbar that hooks to
the tow vehicle, and two that drape from around the Jeep's shackles to
the tow vehicle. I know the shackles aren't the best place for them,
but I feel safer with something else on the jeep attatched just in case
the bumper comes off. The tow bar will not stay on the jeep while its
not in use due to the way it was made (home built and bullet proof).

My M38A1's tow bar has bolts that go through brackets on the bumper
so that it folds up when not in use. One side of the passenger side
bracket is taller than the others with a hole that will accept a
pad-lock that goes through the tow bar and bracket. The pad-lock
not only holds the tow bar up when not in use, but also keeps it from
being stolen (or used by someone else to tow my Jeep away).
--

"Never pound on the threaded ****
end of *anything*!" ** **
** mailto:hollowel@... **
Merl ****

Daniel,
I like the way the roll cage is done. Did you do it yourself or is it store
bought.

Rick S (TX)

In a message dated 6/25/99 5:33:16 PM Central Daylight Time, recary@...
writes:

<<
Isn't that kind of wierd? The manuals all say to replace the spring. It's
not the balls which
wear out.

Reed (CA) >>

Unfortunately Reed, neither of my manuals say anything about the tower at
all, so they don't say to do this (at least not where I could find it).

Both of the balls in my tower assembly were galled from being dragged through
gritty grease (The dust covers were missing).

With the force required to put those springs back in I can't imagine that
they were bad, but they weren't put on a spring tester either so it's
possible they were weak. Of course I wouldn't have any idea what the proper
pressure for them would be. If I had new springs on hand I would certainly
put them in, but I wouldn't let it keep me from putting it back together if I
didn't have new ones.

If you have procedures for rebuilding the tower assembly I would love to see
them. That is exactly what I have been looking for to go with the T-90
rebuild kit. As I said before, I'm not an expert on T-90s and I'm always
open to new inputs.

It is weird that the balls aren't supposed to wear out but they are included
in the small parts kit and the springs that are supposed to wear out are not
included. Hmmmm.

Rick S (XT)

I did a little measuring and comparing specs based on the
information posted by Robert Wolfe and others. Bearing in
mind I only have a dial caliper and a shaky hand but here goes.

My block has a single "A" by the second and third cylinders and
a pair (sort of like "A A") next to the first and fourth.

The crankshaft connection rod journals measured 1.918, 1.1918, 1.923,
and 1.920 in that order. The manual indicates 1.9375 as the spec.
If my math doesn't fail that means I am somewhere near 0.020" under.
Assuming some wear that would jive with the quoted code.

The main bearings measured 2.295", 2.304", and 2.303" from front to
back. The book spec is 2.333" to 2.334". This would be something
like .038" or 0.029" under sized. Again I would like to explain
0.010" of the undersize as the original machining and the rest as
wear (maybe wishful thinking).

I also measured the cylinder bores and they are all within a few
thousandths of the spec of 3.125 the worst is 3.132. This based
on the code would agree with the adsence of "B's".

Based on the code I've haven't figured the "A A" thing, but maybe
that's just a second punch to make sure the mark was readable.

Well, just a little observational data to further the discussion.

I also basically reinstalled the crank and the number one piston
(without the rings) and run thing to top dead center. The head
of the piston was level with the deck of the block, is this normal?
It did occur to me that I did not torque the main bearings after I
had things back apart. Based on the chamber design in the head this
could work, but it does seem a bit dicy.

Thanks again for the input ...

Jordan
'54 Pickup

In twenty years of Jeep driving I've been pulled over probably half a
dozen times for driving with the windshield down, but NEVER givin a
ticket.

Mr. Officer: "Are you aware, Sir, that it is illegal in Michigan to
drive a 4 wheeled vehicle on public roads without a fixed windshield in
front of your face?"

Frank: "Why no, Officer, I thought it was OK as long as I was wearing
eye protection, and since my eyeglass count when I'm on a motorcycle I
though it was OK."

Mr Officer: "I'm sorry, sir, but if you do not have a windshield, you
must have eye protection, and a helmet."

Frank: " A helmet?! That seems pretty silly, but if that's the law, I
guess I'd better put the windshield back up."

Mr Officer: "Thank you sir, Oh, by the way, what year is this Jeep?"

This is usually how it goes and I get off with a warning. Eye
protection I can understand, and I'd never drive in "bugs-on-teeth" mode
without it, but how dorky would you feel driving your Jeep wearing a
helmet? Sheesh....

Frank (MI)

In a message dated 6/25/99 3:39:38 PM Central Daylight Time, lupa@...
writes:

<<
I just bought a 1955 Willys pickup, I'm interested in knowing other people
with pickups for information on whether to restore or convert it to a 4x4
off-road machine. The pickup is in about 90% original condition with all
good condition parts, but it has a V-8 motor. I'm still researching the
V.I.N. numbers as well as planning an attack strategy.

I made the mistake of buying a 1972 Jeep C-J 5 without research, it cost me
a lot of money and even more time, but the results were worth the effort. I
would just like to get more info and sugestions before I "Dive In"!

Thanks - Paul
>>
Paul, The most important thing to do with your truck is to have fun. For
more info you can check out the following sites.






Have fun reading and what ever you do, have lots of fun with your truck.
Welcome to the list.

Rick S (TX)

I come back from a 300 mile round trip to the sand dunes, flat towing my
CJ-5, and I find a thread about tow bars!

For safety chains I loop a large tow chain through the front shackles
and through the loops on the hitch, that way the tow bar or the ball can
fail and you have a fairly wide connection to the Jeep to get things
under control and stopped. It's just my opinion, but it looks like a
pretty good set up, that (thank heavens) I've never had to test!

I can't help you on the tow-bar stowage; I take mine of when not in use.

My CJ-5 isn't a Willys, but it sure was fun roaring around on the dunes
today (Mike Boyink knows what I'm talkiing about :o) ). At least it
was fun until the steering shaft to steering gear coupler broke.
Yikes! Good thing I towed it there!

Frank (MI)

'47 CJ-2A
'63 6-230 4WD
'63 J-200 Gladiator
'64 Wagoneer (Organ Donor)
'76 CJ-5 Renegade V-8

"When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt."
-Henry J. Kaiser