开云体育

Jerry
According to my trusty book ,it saidsiF THE VOLTAGE DOES NOT DROP BELOW 5
VOLTS ON A 6 VOLT BATTERY OR 10 VOLTS ON A 12 VOLT BATTERY,THE BATTERY IS
SATISFACTORY. unquote
Bob

In a message dated 6/23/99 12:58:27 PM Central Daylight Time,
mboyink@... writes:

<<
I just called both 4WDH and Turner, neither one has ever heard of the T90
spacer kit (mentioned in Granville Kings Jeep Bible as a
slip-out-of-second-fix).

4WDH thought their small parts kit included whatever this spacer kit did.
Lets hope so! >>

Mike I bought the small parts kit from 4WDHardware and it did not contain the
mythical spacer. The only way I can see that this spacer would be needed
were if the synchronizers were bad or the front/rear bearing was bad.


Rick S (TX)

As usual Rick Grover is much more efficient that I am. I don't expect Rick's
web page to go anywhere, however I did still post the Warn OD Manual as I
promised. Rick's is much prettier than mine and I recommend using his. Mine
will still be there, tied to the Pickup FAQs.



Rick, Nice job.

Rick S (TX)

Friends,

I found a Hallmark Card today, in their "Impromptu" section...

It's a pic of a very little boy in a jean jacket, at the
wheel of either a CJ-7 or a Wrangler. It's a closeup pic.
Kinda cool. The door and windshield hinges, along with the
flat windshield tell us it's a Jeep.

The inside is blank, so you can give it on any occasion. I am giving
it to my wife, letting her know not just boys get their toys. :) She
gets hers tomorrow.

Leaving in the AM for the surprise trip to the ice skate factory. My
wife will be getting those long awaited custom skates thanks to the
Jeep parts sales. Weather permitting, we fly in my buddies private
plane. Weather not permitting, sore fanny by the end of the day.

Take care,

Dave

From: Reed Cary <recary@...>
Mike, I think one or two West Coast sources were mentioned, the last time
this came up. Could go
to the archives I suppose.

Reed (CA)

Biting my tongue on the functionality of the archives...would someone be so
kind as to re-post the sources Reed speaks of?

Mike Boyink
Holland, MI
1966 CJ5
1983 6.2 GMC Rally Van (towdog)


v

At 09:40 AM 6/23/99 -0700, you wrote:

<snip>

Two paragraphs later, my question: If you had to do
some bodywork directly over some of the spotwelds, how
could you make it not stand out? To see a row of
spotwelds stop and start up again can look kind of
funny.

I have similar yet different problem. Some PO apparently got a new toy in
the form of a rivet gun and thought that this was just the neatest thing
invented by man since fire.
This dude riveted EVERYTHING!!!

One of the worst places he attacked was the left rear quarter panel. He
replaced this and used about 100 rivets to install it. There is a double row
of rivets that follow the wheel well, down along the bottom of the panel
right up along the top!

Sorry but looks a little more then just "rustic".

Someone suggested spot welding each one then grinding them down. Any other
ideas?

Kendal Jackson
--It might look like I'm doing nothing, but at the cellular level I'm
really quite busy--

Yeah, sorry about that (and the wasted band width) Will get it right in the future.

Reed (CA)
===



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--- Mike Boyink <mboyink@...> wrote:

From: Mike Boyink <mboyink@...>

I just called both 4WDH and Turner, neither one has ever heard of the T90
spacer kit (mentioned in Granville Kings Jeep Bible as a
slip-out-of-second-fix).

4WDH thought their small parts kit included whatever this spacer kit did.
Lets hope so!

Mike, I think one or two West Coast sources were mentioned, the last time this came up. Could go
to the archives I suppose.

Reed (CA)
===



_________________________________________________________
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I just called both 4WDH and Turner, neither one has ever heard of the T90
spacer kit (mentioned in Granville Kings Jeep Bible as a
slip-out-of-second-fix).

4WDH thought their small parts kit included whatever this spacer kit did.
Lets hope so!

On another note, I also ordered the side-body "Jeep" stickers for my dad's
repainted Wrangler. $8.75 *each*! Wonder how much of that is trademark
payoff....

Mike Boyink
Holland, MI
1966 CJ5
1983 6.2 GMC Rally Van (towdog)

From: Bill Lagler <wbl@...>

AFAIK this only happens to swapped in V6's, not the factory
installed ones. The problem is with the direction of the
oil filter mount. From memory (maybe not quite right) the
OEM V6 has the filter coming off the right front corner
of the motor at about a 45 deg angle but level. Most of
the car engines have the filter pointed more straight
forward, 30 deg maybe, and angled down, right at the front
pumpkin. Hit a good bump and suddenly you're pumping your
oil on the ground.

Hmmm..the first V6 swapped into my Jeep I'm pretty sure was a car motor (it
had a 1bbl carb and didn't all the Jeep V6's have a 2bbl?). The oil filter
on that was level, as is the one on my current V6 which is a Jeep V6.

Could this be a 198 V6 vs a 225 V6 thing??

Regardless, it always makes for a fun cleanup after an oil change...:)

Mike Boyink
Holland, MI
1966 CJ5
1983 6.2 GMC Rally Van (towdog)

Yes, a thanks to Landon and Rick Grover for scanning the Warn OD manual and putting it up on the
web.

I don't have an OD yet. Been looking for one for some time. And now, when I am suddenly offered a
good one and at a good price, I don't have the cash (I know - sob, sob) But I will keep the manual
on file for some other day. (No you can't have it. It was an offer off the list by someone who
could use it, but doesn't need it right away - hasn't started his resto.)

Reed (CA)


===



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I think maybe that's what Chuck did, problem is the V6/V8 to T90 requires
an adapter that's 2.5" thick and moves the engine forward to far.

That is what I used, but I also moved the trans x-member forward 1.5" for
firewall clearance. If I hadn't moved it (and maybe I need to move it back)
I would have had to dimple the firewall.
_________________________________
Chuck Pedretti MCSD, MCSE
Consultant
Magenic Technologies
mailto:chuckp@...
_________________________________

(46 CJ)
_________________________________

Arne Anderson wrote:

From: Arne Anderson <[email protected]>

I have no idea if this is possible and doesn't have much to do with this thread
but it does have to do with a 225/231 so here goes. When and if I am going to
put a V-6 in my 2A my intention was to leave the transmission and t-case alone
as to not disrupt my drive shafts and do modifications elsewhere. I don't know

I think maybe thats what Chuck did, problem is the V6/V8 to T90 requires
an adapter that's 2.5" thick and moves the engine forward to far.

about the layout of the V-6 but given the fact that there is only 3 cylinders
per side I think this would provide adequate clearance at the axle. Of course
the other problem is firewall but I was just hoping that would work out and
lastly the steering I was hoping could be routed acordingly. Just my thoughts

With the V6 positioned right the original steering fits without mods.
The firewall requires a small mod just like the factory CJ5 V6.

of which I don't even know if it is possible. My other thought since I have
never seemed to run out of power on the trail is a suped up f-head. Like a
performance cam from clifford which widens the torque range, a header, the weber
I currently have, perhaps port and polish the heads, and throw on an electronic
ignition. Who knows so many options?!

Built to the max the 134 will never match the power of a stock V6, just
to big of a difference in cubic inches.

Bill
47cj2a

Perhaps you should give Advance Adapters a call. They've always been
extremely helpful to me.

Jerry

I'll take a look at my jeeps tonight and try to get
some measurements.

could you check the measurement of the pulley (crank) center vertically from
the front round x-member on the 2a? This will tell me the most as far as
where I am at for height.

Thanks for all the help - stupid questions getting quality answers.

BTW I posted the same question on the parts Mike BBS (AA's suggestion for
help)

Question: I am completing my swap of a Buick 231 into a 46 cj2a using AA
trans adaptor to the stock T-90 as well as their buick motor mounts. Their
directions are vauge at best - suggesting moving the motor to the drivers
side 1.5" and 1.5" forward - the side movement would results in their motor
mount on the passenger side being too short. I chose to center the motor in
the frame (moving it 1.5" to the passenger side) and moved it 1.5" forward).
The motor is mounted level front to back. I am running a 2.5" lift and there
is only 4" of clearance between the crank pulley and the 1st point of
contact on the axle. Any suggestions?

His response: "The reasons for moving the engine to the left is for
driveshaft(starter) and diff clearance (pan).Your engine is also very low in
the chassis, you are not going to lineup on the radiator very well. Have you
thought of starting over and doing some fabrication on the mounts, I have
installed the AA mounts without having to do this, maybe you don't have the
correct ones. The ones I use utilize the stock Buick mount (insulator).
Mike"

Unfortunately although he recommends starting over he gave no usefull info
on how to fix the problem - about as useful as AA's conversion guide.


_________________________________
Chuck Pedretti MCSD, MCSE
Consultant
Magenic Technologies
mailto:chuckp@...
_________________________________

(46 CJ)
_________________________________

Gary
Taken from excerpt of Beachwood Canvas cat.:
Cj5, Late cj3b Curved more modernfront bucket seatswith no seat backs or
bottom pan,Front seat springs are integral part of frame: uses early cj3b
wide 15 inch high upper rear seat: orignal coverscovered entire front
seat upper portion
Late cj3b and cj5 rear seats had full size cushions and covers: Lower
holes are drilled all around the tube perimeter. This might help you.
Bob

At 10:08 AM 6/23/99 -0700, Reed Cary wrote:

From: Reed Cary <recary@...>



--- "K. R." <kr98664@...> wrote:

From: "K. R." <kr98664@...>



--- Reed Cary <recary@...> wrote:

From: Reed Cary <recary@...>



--- Merl <hollowel@...> wrote:

This stuff doesn't hide bodywork imperfections
near as well as flat, but it should be a lot

easier to keep clean.

Know what you are saying here, Merl. But just on a
point of taste (not relating to what you've
said) I like the old roughness of a jeep body. I
made a point of *not* bondo'ing the spot welds,
for example. Body people like to "skim" the body,
thus removing all these small imperfections.
My feeling is, hey it's a jeep and that primative
character is part of it.

My $0.02,

Reed (CA)
===

Ah, yes, now Vern enters the equation:

I, too, am somewhat partial to all the spotwelds, etc.
In the course of my crimes against autobody repair, I
got to wondering about these original marks.

Specifically, I did some minor repair to the top edge
of one of the fenders. After I got it all nice and
smooth, I realized I had faired over some but not all
of the spotwelds. It was quite noticeable when wet
with primer. I ended up letting it dry, and removed
some of the filler over the spotwelds so it wasn't so
obvious.

Two paragraphs later, my question: If you had to do
some bodywork directly over some of the spotwelds, how
could you make it not stand out? To see a row of
spotwelds stop and start up again can look kind of
funny. I'm not real picky about the bodywork, and
expect to get this jeep somewhat beat up and
scratched. But I do like to keep from drawing
attention to my obviously amateur bodywork. I had
even experimented sanding small circular depression to
match but it looked even worse.

Vern, seems you have a new angle on everything. Dunno. My jeep had been

in some previous

accidents, and I discovered several areas filled with lead. I don't know

when this dates from, but

I wasn't about to mess with it. Inside they had used (I don't know what

it's called) the pointed

end of a welder's slag hammer, to drive out the panel. Very unsightly. But

hey, if not original

it's antique! And of course the lead covered some of the spot welds

formerly visable on the

outside. Guess I just thought "it ain't my fault, and there's nothin I can

do about it".

Maybe you should think about like the traditional fencers in France, who

would rub salt in the

wound just to make a scar, which they could proudly display.

Reed (CA)
===



_________________________________________________________
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Get your free @yahoo.com address at

------------------------------------------------------------------------
_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/
WillysTech

NEW! Parts Buy/Sell/Swap Board

Vehicle FAQ Sheets

Parts Resource List

_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/

i got the parts i needed so no more e-mails please

At 10:08 AM 6/23/99 -0700, Reed Cary wrote:

From: Reed Cary <recary@...>



--- "K. R." <kr98664@...> wrote:

From: "K. R." <kr98664@...>



--- Reed Cary <recary@...> wrote:

From: Reed Cary <recary@...>



--- Merl <hollowel@...> wrote:

This stuff doesn't hide bodywork imperfections
near as well as flat, but it should be a lot

easier to keep clean.

Know what you are saying here, Merl. But just on a
point of taste (not relating to what you've
said) I like the old roughness of a jeep body. I
made a point of *not* bondo'ing the spot welds,
for example. Body people like to "skim" the body,
thus removing all these small imperfections.
My feeling is, hey it's a jeep and that primative
character is part of it.

My $0.02,

Reed (CA)
===

Ah, yes, now Vern enters the equation:

I, too, am somewhat partial to all the spotwelds, etc.
In the course of my crimes against autobody repair, I
got to wondering about these original marks.

Specifically, I did some minor repair to the top edge
of one of the fenders. After I got it all nice and
smooth, I realized I had faired over some but not all
of the spotwelds. It was quite noticeable when wet
with primer. I ended up letting it dry, and removed
some of the filler over the spotwelds so it wasn't so
obvious.

Two paragraphs later, my question: If you had to do
some bodywork directly over some of the spotwelds, how
could you make it not stand out? To see a row of
spotwelds stop and start up again can look kind of
funny. I'm not real picky about the bodywork, and
expect to get this jeep somewhat beat up and
scratched. But I do like to keep from drawing
attention to my obviously amateur bodywork. I had
even experimented sanding small circular depression to
match but it looked even worse.

Vern, seems you have a new angle on everything. Dunno. My jeep had been

in some previous

accidents, and I discovered several areas filled with lead. I don't know

when this dates from, but

I wasn't about to mess with it. Inside they had used (I don't know what

it's called) the pointed

end of a welder's slag hammer, to drive out the panel. Very unsightly. But

hey, if not original

it's antique! And of course the lead covered some of the spot welds

formerly visable on the

outside. Guess I just thought "it ain't my fault, and there's nothin I can

do about it".

Maybe you should think about like the traditional fencers in France, who

would rub salt in the

wound just to make a scar, which they could proudly display.

Reed (CA)
===



_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at

------------------------------------------------------------------------
_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/
WillysTech

NEW! Parts Buy/Sell/Swap Board

Vehicle FAQ Sheets

Parts Resource List

_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/

i got the parts i needed so no more e-mails please

--- "K. R." <kr98664@...> wrote:

From: "K. R." <kr98664@...>



--- Reed Cary <recary@...> wrote:

From: Reed Cary <recary@...>



--- Merl <hollowel@...> wrote:

This stuff doesn't hide bodywork imperfections
near as well as flat, but it should be a lot

easier to keep clean.

Know what you are saying here, Merl. But just on a
point of taste (not relating to what you've
said) I like the old roughness of a jeep body. I
made a point of *not* bondo'ing the spot welds,
for example. Body people like to "skim" the body,
thus removing all these small imperfections.
My feeling is, hey it's a jeep and that primative
character is part of it.

My $0.02,

Reed (CA)
===

Ah, yes, now Vern enters the equation:

I, too, am somewhat partial to all the spotwelds, etc.
In the course of my crimes against autobody repair, I
got to wondering about these original marks.

Specifically, I did some minor repair to the top edge
of one of the fenders. After I got it all nice and
smooth, I realized I had faired over some but not all
of the spotwelds. It was quite noticeable when wet
with primer. I ended up letting it dry, and removed
some of the filler over the spotwelds so it wasn't so
obvious.

Two paragraphs later, my question: If you had to do
some bodywork directly over some of the spotwelds, how
could you make it not stand out? To see a row of
spotwelds stop and start up again can look kind of
funny. I'm not real picky about the bodywork, and
expect to get this jeep somewhat beat up and
scratched. But I do like to keep from drawing
attention to my obviously amateur bodywork. I had
even experimented sanding small circular depression to
match but it looked even worse.

Vern, seems you have a new angle on everything. Dunno. My jeep had been in some previous
accidents, and I discovered several areas filled with lead. I don't know when this dates from, but
I wasn't about to mess with it. Inside they had used (I don't know what it's called) the pointed
end of a welder's slag hammer, to drive out the panel. Very unsightly. But hey, if not original
it's antique! And of course the lead covered some of the spot welds formerly visable on the
outside. Guess I just thought "it ain't my fault, and there's nothin I can do about it".
Maybe you should think about like the traditional fencers in France, who would rub salt in the
wound just to make a scar, which they could proudly display.

Reed (CA)
===



_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at

I have no idea if this is possible and doesn't have much to do with this thread
but it does have to do with a 225/231 so here goes. When and if I am going to
put a V-6 in my 2A my intention was to leave the transmission and t-case alone
as to not disrupt my drive shafts and do modifications elsewhere. I don't know
about the layout of the V-6 but given the fact that there is only 3 cylinders
per side I think this would provide adequate clearance at the axle. Of course
the other problem is firewall but I was just hoping that would work out and
lastly the steering I was hoping could be routed acordingly. Just my thoughts
of which I don't even know if it is possible. My other thought since I have
never seemed to run out of power on the trail is a suped up f-head. Like a
performance cam from clifford which widens the torque range, a header, the weber
I currently have, perhaps port and polish the heads, and throw on an electronic
ignition. Who knows so many options?!

arne