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Re: Master Cylinder

Reed Cary
 

What most of us "old timers" use(i mean the jeeps, not us)is the reprint of the Kaiser manual
titled: Service Manual, Jeep Universal 4WD, CJ-2A, CJ-3A, CJ-3B, CJ-5, CJ-6 & 2WD DJ-3A,
SM-1002-R6, 1965 Kaiser Jeep Corp.

I think it's available at most large parts houses. But, I must admit, I haven't looked too
carefully, to notice that there was a slightly different version.

Reed (CA)

--- Gary Parobeck <parobeck@...> wrote:
From: "Gary Parobeck" <parobeck@...>

Reed,
I have a Service Manual for JEEP Universal Series. It is # SM-1046 and
says1965 Kaiser Jeep Corp. mnow JEEP Corp on the inside cover. I just
purchased it a few months ago from Willys-Overland in Ohio. The brake
section in this manual is P and I still only find one assembly. Is there
possibly some place I am not looking??
Thanks,
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: Reed Cary <recary@...>
To: WillysTech@... <WillysTech@...>
Date: Tuesday, June 22, 1999 7:55 PM
Subject: Re: [WT] Master Cylinder


From: Reed Cary <recary@...>



--- Gary Parobeck <parobeck@...> wrote:
When I got my 63 CJ5 it was in pieces. Took three trips to get it home.
I am in the process of
restoring it and putting it back together. My current puzzle is the
master cylinder. It was
completely a part, the bushings, springs, etc were all gone. The rebuild
kit I have doesn't
include assembly details. My manual only includes the assembly for the
Double Safety Master
Cylinder. Mine is the old single cylinder that bolts to the frame under
the floor. I have it
together but have one part left over and I am not sure where it goes. It
is a small rubber
washer about 1" outside dia. 1/2" inside diameter and 1/8" thick. I
can't seem to find the
right spot for this and the assembly is packed in so tightly already I am
not sure if it is
required. Any help? Do any of you have an assembly drawing for this type
of cylinder?
Gary, you must be using the Haynes or Chilton manual. The reprint of the
Kaiser has two pictures
of it. (Sorry, unable to scan at present) I don't show anything like the
part you mention. And
it's been too long since I rebuilt mine to remember, what the seat, for
example was made out of
(The only possibility).

Reed (CA)


===



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FW: [WT] starter bushing removal, version 2.0

Richard Grover
 

Ahem! (excuse my fat fingers) "sedge"?????? I meant "wedge".

-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Grover
Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 1999 6:06 PM
To: 'WillysTech@...'
Subject: RE: [WT] starter bushing removal, version 2.0


You "can" or "can't" sedge anything under it???

That's the thing I popped out from the front, while trying to remove the
bushing.

Rick G. in AZ


-----Original Message-----
From: Arne Anderson [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 1999 4:59 PM
To: WillysTech@...
Subject: Re: [WT] starter bushing removal, version 2.0


From: Arne Anderson <[email protected]>

haven't really dug in to it officially just trying to get all the ideas
before
I dig in. What I did find is what seems to be a cap on the back side of the
bushing. Looks like it is pressed in but given the position and the tight
fit
of this cap I can wedge anything under it. Any other ideas would be great.
thanks

arne

Richard Grover wrote:

From: Richard Grover <grover@...>

My bell housing had a hole drilled through the lip, with a "slug"
press-fit
into the back. The slug popped out!

Rick G. in AZ


-----Original Message-----
From: K. R. [mailto:kr98664@...]
Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 1999 4:11 PM
To: WillysTech@...
Subject: Re: [WT] starter bushing removal, version 2.0

Dear Friends,

Another thought just hit me about the Hydro-Whacker I
mentioned earlier today. I've never had the starter
out so maybe this doesn't matter. But the forces
generated can be quite strong. I'm not sure what the
casting looks like where the bushing is mounted, but
use caution to prevent damage. I'd hate to hear a
reply that you broke a chunk off your bell housing.

Hoping I'm not too late,
Vern
48 CJ2A in Vancouver, WA
_
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WiWillys & Cheese

David H. Hatch
 

WiWillys [Wisconsin Willys fans]...

Raise your hand if your are from Wisconsin? 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 at
least! Boy oh boy is this list gonna be fun now!

How do you know a WiWillys Techer? They have a toy Jeep glued to
the top of their Cheesehead!

How do you tell a happy WiWillys Techer? They bugs their teeth
[windshield down].

It's a Wiwonderful day on this list!

Dave in the cave, Green Bay


Re: starter bushing removal, version 2.0

Richard Grover
 

You "can" or "can't" sedge anything under it???

That's the thing I popped out from the front, while trying to remove the
bushing.

Rick G. in AZ

-----Original Message-----
From: Arne Anderson [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 1999 4:59 PM
To: WillysTech@...
Subject: Re: [WT] starter bushing removal, version 2.0


From: Arne Anderson <[email protected]>

haven't really dug in to it officially just trying to get all the ideas
before
I dig in. What I did find is what seems to be a cap on the back side of the
bushing. Looks like it is pressed in but given the position and the tight
fit
of this cap I can wedge anything under it. Any other ideas would be great.
thanks

arne

Richard Grover wrote:

From: Richard Grover <grover@...>

My bell housing had a hole drilled through the lip, with a "slug"
press-fit
into the back. The slug popped out!

Rick G. in AZ


-----Original Message-----
From: K. R. [mailto:kr98664@...]
Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 1999 4:11 PM
To: WillysTech@...
Subject: Re: [WT] starter bushing removal, version 2.0

Dear Friends,

Another thought just hit me about the Hydro-Whacker I
mentioned earlier today. I've never had the starter
out so maybe this doesn't matter. But the forces
generated can be quite strong. I'm not sure what the
casting looks like where the bushing is mounted, but
use caution to prevent damage. I'd hate to hear a
reply that you broke a chunk off your bell housing.

Hoping I'm not too late,
Vern
48 CJ2A in Vancouver, WA
_
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weight '55

 

what is the/where can i find the weight of my '55 cj-5? thanks a bunch in
advance
oh yeah, and here's an update:
for anyone who's missed/forgotten, i trakced down my granfather's '55 cj-5
way up north, and have repurchased it and will rebuild it frame-up. it is
now at my camp (further north than i bought it, about 300+ miles) where i've
been testing it around the logging trails. as soon as i can get back up, i'm
bringing it home


Re: Newby: How will I know I have the proper rear seat ?

K. R.
 

--- TPGdirop@... wrote:
From: TPGdirop@...

I have recently inherited a 1957 CJ5 from my Dad. It
does not have a rear
seat and I have posted requests for an original one
just about anywhere I can
find on the net.

I have had several people say they have a seat that
"will fit". If I am going
to all this trouble, I would like to get a proper
one.

How will I know if it is the right seat? Are the
military ones the same as
the civilian ones (other than upholstery?) Can
anyone point me to books or
diagrams that show the proper seat and the correct
mounting hardware?

Am I crazy to think I can find one?
snip

Garry Brown
Columbus Ohio

A belated welcome to the list. I couldn't find my
copy this morning, but I know the Beachwood Canvas
catalog has some info towards the back that helps
explain which seats fit various model jeeps. They may
even have one, though their prices can be spendy. No
matter what, their catalog is a great reference
source. Their address is in the parts resource link
included with every WillysTech message.

Happy Hunting,
Vern
48 CJ2A in Vancouver, WA
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Re: Master Cylinder

Gary Parobeck
 

Reed,
I have a Service Manual for JEEP Universal Series. It is # SM-1046 and
says1965 Kaiser Jeep Corp. mnow JEEP Corp on the inside cover. I just
purchased it a few months ago from Willys-Overland in Ohio. The brake
section in this manual is P and I still only find one assembly. Is there
possibly some place I am not looking??
Thanks,
Gary

-----Original Message-----
From: Reed Cary <recary@...>
To: WillysTech@... <WillysTech@...>
Date: Tuesday, June 22, 1999 7:55 PM
Subject: Re: [WT] Master Cylinder


From: Reed Cary <recary@...>



--- Gary Parobeck <parobeck@...> wrote:
When I got my 63 CJ5 it was in pieces. Took three trips to get it home.
I am in the process of
restoring it and putting it back together. My current puzzle is the
master cylinder. It was
completely a part, the bushings, springs, etc were all gone. The rebuild
kit I have doesn't
include assembly details. My manual only includes the assembly for the
Double Safety Master
Cylinder. Mine is the old single cylinder that bolts to the frame under
the floor. I have it
together but have one part left over and I am not sure where it goes. It
is a small rubber
washer about 1" outside dia. 1/2" inside diameter and 1/8" thick. I
can't seem to find the
right spot for this and the assembly is packed in so tightly already I am
not sure if it is
required. Any help? Do any of you have an assembly drawing for this type
of cylinder?
Gary, you must be using the Haynes or Chilton manual. The reprint of the
Kaiser has two pictures
of it. (Sorry, unable to scan at present) I don't show anything like the
part you mention. And
it's been too long since I rebuilt mine to remember, what the seat, for
example was made out of
(The only possibility).

Reed (CA)


===



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Re: Master Cylinder

Terry Davis
 

Where can I get a reprint of the Kaiser manual? I have a 60 CJ5 and it would come in handy.

Terry Davis

Reed Cary wrote:

From: Reed Cary <recary@...>

--- Gary Parobeck <parobeck@...> wrote:
When I got my 63 CJ5 it was in pieces. Took three trips to get it home. I am in the process of
restoring it and putting it back together. My current puzzle is the master cylinder. It was
completely a part, the bushings, springs, etc were all gone. The rebuild kit I have doesn't
include assembly details. My manual only includes the assembly for the Double Safety Master
Cylinder. Mine is the old single cylinder that bolts to the frame under the floor. I have it
together but have one part left over and I am not sure where it goes. It is a small rubber
washer about 1" outside dia. 1/2" inside diameter and 1/8" thick. I can't seem to find the
right spot for this and the assembly is packed in so tightly already I am not sure if it is
required. Any help? Do any of you have an assembly drawing for this type of cylinder?
Gary, you must be using the Haynes or Chilton manual. The reprint of the Kaiser has two pictures
of it. (Sorry, unable to scan at present) I don't show anything like the part you mention. And
it's been too long since I rebuilt mine to remember, what the seat, for example was made out of
(The only possibility).

Reed (CA)

===

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Re: Ricky's New Toy

Richard Needham
 

I really hope all you sandblasters out there are wearing
resperators. Ever hear of silicosis !!!!!!!!

Richard cj2a Minnesota

From: Rick48CJ2A@...

Well guys, I went to Sears yesterday and bought a sandblaster. I had one
years ago, but I never had an air compressor to use it with so I got rid of
it. A friend of mine is moving this week to Houston, but won't have a place
to keep her air compressor until then. Being the nice guy that I am, I
volunteered to "store" it for her until she got situated. Needless to say my
"storing" the compressor required my purchasing the sandblaster to store with
it.

I brought it home and blasted an old rusty set of metal armrests. They came
out looking great with just about 5 minutes work. I love this thing. I
decided that I should post a few of the safety tips I discovered while doing
this.

1. Use a full face shield and goggles

2. Wear heavy leather gloves

3. Wear long sleeves and a hat

Set to 90 PSI this thing will cut through just about anything if left in one
place too long. After I blasted the armrests my wife decided it was time for
me to try it out on some old cast iron skillets we had. Man is this thing
fast. By then it was getting late and I thought the compressor might keep up
the neighbors so I shut things down and cleaned it all up figuring to start
on the truck this morning. As luck would have it the rain hasn't stopped all
day.

It being Father's Day and all my wife suggested that I take her shopping.
What the heck it was raining anyway. It certainly doesn't do the home life
any good to whine about such things and besides she wanted to go to Sears.
She went to women's clothing and I went to the tool department. After seeing
how great a job the sand blaster had done, I knew that the new compressor
would have to be coming for my Christmas present. I was looking at the
upright 30 gallon, 6 CFM at 90 PSI model for $299. I was certain that it
could be mine if I just threw enough hints Momma's way. As luck would have
it Momma came back from clothes shopping before I was done drooling over the
tools. I decided it was time to drop the first hint, "I want that compressor
for Christmas this year" (You have to specify which year you know). Subtle
don't you think. Momma took one look at it and said, "Are you sure. This
one's bigger and cheaper". What! I couldn't believe it. They had the floor
model of the $499 Professional upright 60 gallon, 9.5 CFM at 90 PSI
compressor on clearance for $219. Needless to say, I had Momma buy it for me
on the spot. Ain't married life grand. It only has a 90 day warranty but it
seems that if this stuff is going to go bad it usually does it in the first
few months.

Darn, Now I have to store 2 air compressors. :-)

Look how many other new tools I'll have to buy.

Rick S (TX)
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Re: New Member

Ronald L. Cook
 

Uhh, whots wit der someting. Ders gettin to be alot a dem cheeze heads
der.

All in fun--Welcome to the list Jerry. Do you already know one of our
more famous listers that hangs out in a cave somewhere in Green Bay? He
has a 2A and so does his son. If not, he will most certainly find you.

Lots of good help and info here on the WT List. Just put the question
up and you will get some kind of answer, usually correct.

Ron, Ia
43GPW, 51M38

Jerry Clough wrote:


From: "Jerry Clough" <jclough@...>

Hi. My name is Jerry. I live in Green Bay, WI USA. Recently I purchased
(after waiting for many years) my father-in-law's 47 CJ-2A. It is in very
good condition. The engine was rebuilt about 500 miles ago. I put in a new
battery and it now starts on the second try every time. The body is in so-so
condition. The frame is solid, but the tub is starting some rust-through.
Unlike most early CJ's, this one is mostly stock and unmodified. The only
non-original parts I know of are the roll bar and the welded shut tail gate.
The outside body is very scratched up from work and off-roading. I plan to
keep my CJ as unmodified as possible. I'm going to restore it to good
working condition, but not to show quality. I plan to keep it a work, off
roading, and running to town vehicle. The first thing I'm going to do is
tighten the VERY loose steering. Any advice on what is the best way to do
that? I haven't really examined the problem yet (I've only had it since
Sunday) so I don't really know where the play is coming from. Is there
something I should look at first? I really would appreciate the help! I'm
sure that as I keep making improvements to it I will be asking many
questions.

Jerry
--

To respond, try:
mailto:jclough@...

Also, check out


Re: tranny identify

Ross Cook
 

What most refer to as Saginaw is the car type tranny with an externally
mounted shifter. The SM420 is a top loader integral shifter design. It
should have SM420 cast in the side.

-----Original Message-----
From: rburk1@... <rburk1@...>
To: WillysTech@... <WillysTech@...>
Date: Tuesday, June 22, 1999 4:13 PM
Subject: Re: [WT] tranny identify


From: rburk1@...

According to the Tranny finders guide in the AA catalog, the SM 420 is
listed as a Muncie. No reference to a Saginaw. If I had to guess I
think it is probably a car type 4 speed. Also, the SM 420 was not made
after 1968, it was replaced by the SM 465.

Robert
53 Wagon (SM 465 sitting on garage floor)

On Mon, 21 Jun 1999 15:54:12 -0700 Arne Anderson
<[email protected]> writes:
From: Arne Anderson <[email protected]>

I am just curious if a GM Saginaw 4-speed is the same thing as a
sm420

arne
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Re: starter bushing removal, version 2.0

Arne Anderson
 

haven't really dug in to it officially just trying to get all the ideas before
I dig in. What I did find is what seems to be a cap on the back side of the
bushing. Looks like it is pressed in but given the position and the tight fit
of this cap I can wedge anything under it. Any other ideas would be great.
thanks

arne

Richard Grover wrote:

From: Richard Grover <grover@...>

My bell housing had a hole drilled through the lip, with a "slug" press-fit
into the back. The slug popped out!

Rick G. in AZ


-----Original Message-----
From: K. R. [mailto:kr98664@...]
Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 1999 4:11 PM
To: WillysTech@...
Subject: Re: [WT] starter bushing removal, version 2.0

Dear Friends,

Another thought just hit me about the Hydro-Whacker I
mentioned earlier today. I've never had the starter
out so maybe this doesn't matter. But the forces
generated can be quite strong. I'm not sure what the
casting looks like where the bushing is mounted, but
use caution to prevent damage. I'd hate to hear a
reply that you broke a chunk off your bell housing.

Hoping I'm not too late,
Vern
48 CJ2A in Vancouver, WA
_
------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Vehicle FAQ Sheets

Parts Resource List

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Re: Master Cylinder

Reed Cary
 

--- Gary Parobeck <parobeck@...> wrote:
When I got my 63 CJ5 it was in pieces. Took three trips to get it home. I am in the process of
restoring it and putting it back together. My current puzzle is the master cylinder. It was
completely a part, the bushings, springs, etc were all gone. The rebuild kit I have doesn't
include assembly details. My manual only includes the assembly for the Double Safety Master
Cylinder. Mine is the old single cylinder that bolts to the frame under the floor. I have it
together but have one part left over and I am not sure where it goes. It is a small rubber
washer about 1" outside dia. 1/2" inside diameter and 1/8" thick. I can't seem to find the
right spot for this and the assembly is packed in so tightly already I am not sure if it is
required. Any help? Do any of you have an assembly drawing for this type of cylinder?
Gary, you must be using the Haynes or Chilton manual. The reprint of the Kaiser has two pictures
of it. (Sorry, unable to scan at present) I don't show anything like the part you mention. And
it's been too long since I rebuilt mine to remember, what the seat, for example was made out of
(The only possibility).

Reed (CA)


===



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Warn OD manual

Ross Cook
 

Landen,
Thanks for the download. Whatever 9and 10 were supposed to be I didn't
get the attachments. Thanks
Ross


Re: starter bushing removal, version 2.0

Richard Grover
 

My bell housing had a hole drilled through the lip, with a "slug" press-fit
into the back. The slug popped out!

Rick G. in AZ

-----Original Message-----
From: K. R. [mailto:kr98664@...]
Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 1999 4:11 PM
To: WillysTech@...
Subject: Re: [WT] starter bushing removal, version 2.0

Dear Friends,

Another thought just hit me about the Hydro-Whacker I
mentioned earlier today. I've never had the starter
out so maybe this doesn't matter. But the forces
generated can be quite strong. I'm not sure what the
casting looks like where the bushing is mounted, but
use caution to prevent damage. I'd hate to hear a
reply that you broke a chunk off your bell housing.

Hoping I'm not too late,
Vern
48 CJ2A in Vancouver, WA
_


Re: starter bushing removal, version 2.0

K. R.
 

--- Arne Anderson <[email protected]> wrote:
From: Arne Anderson <[email protected]>

anybody have any tips on removing the starter
bushing from the bellhousing on a
l-head 134. Any suggestions are greatly
appreciated. Thanks

arne

Dear Friends,

Another thought just hit me about the Hydro-Whacker I
mentioned earlier today. I've never had the starter
out so maybe this doesn't matter. But the forces
generated can be quite strong. I'm not sure what the
casting looks like where the bushing is mounted, but
use caution to prevent damage. I'd hate to hear a
reply that you broke a chunk off your bell housing.

Hoping I'm not too late,
Vern
48 CJ2A in Vancouver, WA
_________________________________________________________
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Re: Introduction ...

 

Jordan,
My L-134 had 2 gaskets on the head as well when I pulled it off. I had
forgotten about it until you mentioned it. Turns out my head had a slight
warp in it and that was the previous owner's attempt to keep it from leaking.
It was actually working until I got curious and took it apart.

As for the tranny and transfer case. I would probably put a new set of
intermediate shaft bearings into the T-case while your there I would probably
throw a small parts kit rebuild at the tranny. Both of these jobs are easy
to do with a little pateince.

Rick S (TX)

In a message dated 6/22/99 3:56:04 PM Central Daylight Time,
franklin@... writes:

<<
1) When I pulled the head from the previously mentioned F-head, I found
two, count'em two, head gaskets neatly squashed in place. This made me
wonder, was the block or head planed?, was the extra gasket there for
piston to head clearance?, or did somebody forget to pull the old one?
I went to the "Service Manual for 'Jeep' Utility Vehicles" I got from
Orginal Reproductions but was unable to find mention of the crankshaft
to deck height or the piston to head clearance. Can I measure the block
or head some how to determine if they have been planed? At top dead
center where should the piston be in relation to the top of the block?

I need to find out if the block can be salvaged or if other option
must be considered.

2) Since I have the motor out and I thought now would be a good time
to evaluate the condition of the transmission and the transfer case.
Since the thing came to me in "not-running" condition, I don't know
if it squacked, werred, or made any other noise. I don't really want
to disassemble the things if I don't have to but can I get a sense of
the condition of the thing?

Thanks in advance ...

Jordan >>


Re: Introduction ...

Reed Cary
 

A belated welcome, Jordan.

--- Jordan Franklin <franklin@...> wrote:
I went to the "Service Manual for 'Jeep' Utility Vehicles" I got from
Orginal Reproductions but was unable to find mention of the crankshaft
to deck height or the piston to head clearance.
I don't recall seeing these measurement anywhere either. And I am undoubtedly running a high
compression engine, as the block has been decked twice. (You can tell if it has been decked at
least once by the lack of serial number on the waterpump boss)

I need to find out if the block can be salvaged or if other option
must be considered.
what else is wrong?

2) Since I have the motor out and I thought now would be a good time
to evaluate the condition of the transmission and the transfer case.
Since the thing came to me in "not-running" condition
The lock washer in the cylinder isn't exactly the sign of a careful mechanic. If this be the
owner, beware.

I don't really want
to disassemble the things if I don't have to but can I get a sense of
the condition of the thing?
Hahaha. It was precisely this philosophy and a desire towards perfection which lead me (and
undoubtedly many others on this list) down the path to take apart every nut and bolt: watch out!
<g>.

===



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Re: How do you remove the OD

 

I have a local auto/truck/tractor supply house (the old fashioned
kind) where I do a lot of business. They carry it. You can also order
direct www.amsoil.com
Rob
Date sent: Tue, 22 Jun 1999 12:22:09 -0700
To: WillysTech@...
From: Kendal Jackson <jacksoti@...>
Send reply to: WillysTech@...
Subject: Re: [WT] How do you remove the OD

From: Kendal Jackson <jacksoti@...>

At 08:56 AM 6/22/99 -0700, you wrote:
Next time you change the oil in the xfer you might try using the
AMSOIL 80/90. Expensive but seems to make things whisper quiet!
Rob
I have been searching high and low for this product. Where are you getting it?

Kendal Jackson
--It might look like I'm doing nothing, but at the cellular level I'm
really quite busy--

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Re: Painting

Todd Murray
 

At 04:01 PM 6/22/99 -0500, you wrote:
From: Merl <hollowel@...>

- Military paint is cheap. $30 per gallon. In effect I can buy 3-5
gallons of this stuff for the price of one gallon of "normal" paint.
- Intended use. I intend to take this thing into the bush and I'm
not going to baby it. Being able to use a matching color rattle can
to make the latest scratch or scrape less noticeable or less prone to
rust really appeals to my cheesier nature. (The military colors come
in matching rattle cans, the Gilespe brand has a very good match with
the color that comes by the gallon.)
Painting my Wagon is pretty far down the list, but you've got me intrigued
with the idea of using Military paint. Where can I buy it? What colors
does it come in? Is it enamel? Can you describe how you mix and spray the
stuff?

Thanks,

Todd