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(No subject)
Reed Cary
Welcome Jim;
Plenty of 2As on this list. So many I can't count them anymore. Plenty of advice, too. So just give a holler. Reed (CA) --- CJ2A1947@... wrote: From: CJ2A1947@...=== _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at |
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Re: How do you remove the OD
Ross Cook
Rick,
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Is the output shaft from the tranny still attached? -----Original Message-----
From: Rick48CJ2A@... <Rick48CJ2A@...> To: WillysTech@... <WillysTech@...> Date: Saturday, June 19, 1999 9:51 PM Subject: Re: [WT] How do you remove the OD From: Rick48CJ2A@...can pull the planetary gear and separate the T-case from the tranny. I'm not18. My question is will the intermediate shaft and gear from the model 20 workfor my truck.one in it. What I discovered is that if it has been sitting then theplanetary gears are froze up. Also the shaft may be stuck in the housing. Theshaft is supposed to slide out. That is if you have removed all the retainers.to tap on the spacer that is behind the nut to get the shaft out. I'll haveto go look at it to remember exactly how it all came out. |
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Re: cj2 tires/overhaul/introduction
Reed Cary
Ron;
What are you doing running the 7.00x16s on the GPW. I was almost positive the M-38 ran those, from stock? Reed (CA) --- "Ronald L. Cook" <rlcook@...> wrote: From: "Ronald L. Cook" <rlcook@...>=== _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at |
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Re: CJ-2A Axles
Reed Cary
David:
Firstly, somebody is pulling your leg about the CJ-4. Only one is known to exist. Check out the 3B site for details. As for the best axle u-joints, that is a matter of opinion. I have seen (someplace) an opinion that the Spicer Cardon (common u-joint) is absolutely the best, bar none. THe other two, the Rzeppa and the Bendix are early constant-velocity types (at least I think they are). The Rzeppa seems to be close in design to those used on VWs and other front wheel drive vehicles w/ a transaxle. I have the Bendix type on my '51 3A, and have no complaints. So what can *I* say? Reed (CA) --- David Best <dbest@...> wrote: Anybody got an opinion on rzeppa joint axles Vs. u-joint axles in early Jeeps? I've got a=== _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at |
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Re: cj2 tires/overhaul/introduction
Ronald L. Cook
Ed,
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I would stick with the 6.00X16 NDT for two reasons. Clearance and power. That is the size the little four banger was designed to turn. Bigger is just hard on clutches, transmissions, x-fer, you name it. I happen to have 7.00X16 on my GPW at the present and it really doesn't like them. I am geared a little higher than you, but I still think the 6.00 is a more suitable size. If you do decide to sell the little Willys, give this Iowegian a chance. Ron, Ia 43GPW, 51M38 Ed Dyvig wrote:
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Re: How do you remove the OD
Ross Cook
I very recently went through the same problem. First, get yourself a
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picture of the parts break down. If you have an old AA catalog there's one in it. What I discovered is that if it has been sitting then the planetary gears are froze up. Also the shaft may be stuck in the housing. The shaft is supposed to slide out. That is if you have removed all the retainers. Degrease the heck out of it so you can see everything. I wound up having to tap on the spacer that is behind the nut to get the shaft out. I'll have to go look at it to remember exactly how it all came out. Remember the brass hammer? Use a brass drift pin. Remember what Merl says? "Never beat on the threaded end of anything". -----Original Message-----
From: Rick48CJ2A@... <Rick48CJ2A@...> To: WillysTech@... <WillysTech@...> Date: Saturday, June 19, 1999 12:40 PM Subject: [WT] How do you remove the OD From: Rick48CJ2A@...tell me the secret to getting it off. I will not use force. I read the factorya certain position? Patiently waiting. :-) |
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Re: (WT)302 in willys
Landen Schooler
Geno Hacker wrote:
Well if you go ahead and do this, you'll be needing a parts source for your D25 and Timkin axles... In short....don't do it. Landen Schooler |
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drive line noise
I just put new springs on my 49CJ3A. A1" lift was built into the springs but
it gave me a full 2" lift over the worn out stock springs. My problem is when driving it and coasting the drive line makes a lot of noise. I have all new ujoints and I put in a 1degree shim to tip the axel up incase the ujoint angle was too great with the lift. Nothing has help. To make the noise I need to be going over 30MPH and then put the tranny on neutral, or let off the gas slightly. If I fully let off the gas so the engine is slowing the vehical the noise goes away. Also if I stall on the power there is no noise. I have checked the slinger on the rear drive shaft for rubbing and found some on the back side by the seal. I made a shim to place the yoke out farther to give more space for the slinger but this has not helped. P.S. I have removed the from drive shaft and have lockout hub, this should eliminate the front end. Greg Chanhassen CJ3A |
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Re: How do you remove the OD
RGGRAY
Rick,
Is this a contest? To remove the OD unit from the transfer you must remove the cover on the back of the OD unit, remove the cotter key, remove the nut. After doing this, if the other five bolt are that mount the unit to the transfer have been removed. the unit will slide back off the shaft.... Rick/cc ---------- From: Rick48CJ2A@...to come off. I removed the 5 bolts around the case and then the shiftertell me the secret to getting it off. I will not use force. I read thefactory installation instructions (very poorly written) and they don't mentionany kind of retainer, so what gives? Does the OD selector shaft have to bein a certain position? Patiently waiting. :-) |
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Re: Pickup tailgate nuts was (6 Volts Signal Flashers/PU Tail Gate Tip)
Rick,
I had a similar problem with the captive nut on the other side of the truck. When I would turn the bolt the nut would turn with it. Again I turned to duct tape and pvc pipe. Materials: Open end wrench that fits the (non)captive square nut, I think it was 1/2 inch. Lots of duct tape 1/2 pvc irrigation pipe - about 15 inches long. Flash light Helper to tease you as you get frustrated. Optional: a dark place to work so you can "see the light". The Tool: Find the proper size open end wrench (1/2 inch?), put it half way in the 1/2 pvc pipe. Too keep the wrench from moving around cut some wood shims (wedge shaped) and tapped them between the wrench and the pvc pipe. Put the shims on one side so the wrench is closer to one side of the pvc than the other. Use a liberal amount of duct tape around the mid section of the wrench and the pvc to secure the wrench in place. The Procedure - (a patient helper may be needed.) Also, marinate the nut and bolt in your favorite liquid wrench solution for a few days. Feed the "tool" down the tail gate shaft. By having the wrench further to one side of the pvc you can try different angles of attack. Look down the shaft to see the nut. This is where a dark place to work and a flashlight comes in handy. Shine the flashlight down the shaft so you can see when the nut lines up with the wrench. Like fishing, you either hook up immediately or it takes forever use the "WT Force" to feel when the wrench is on the nut. Once you hook up, have your trusty assistant use a socket drive to remove the bolt. Try to refrain from swearing each of the 27 times the wrench slips off the nut. You will find by pushing the pvc pipe in different directions you can get better leverage. I tried doing this by my self for an hour. I would get the wrench on the nut and then try to move down and turn the socket drive. Either the wrench would slip off or the socket would pop off. Actually, this is how I broke the first one off and started the other process. One other method I thought of as a last resort, slide a metal pipe in there, use a 8 pound sledge and break the nut off of the captive. But then, the little voice said, "do it right the first time". Good luck, If my directions are unclear let me know. I bet Vern could make us all a professional tool as described above that would allow the interchange of various end pieces for working in restricted places. :) Jim 56 PU L6 226 CA |
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Re: Digest Number 429
Don Miller
Help! Can a T86 transmission replace my defective T90? The T86 is from my
parts CJ5 V-6 and the T90 is in my CJ3B. I also have the bell housing , engine, and transfer case from the CJ5. Maybe the best solution is to put V-6 and all in CJ3B. V-6 is froze up (lack of use) and Hurricane run very well. Appreciate any comments. Thanks Don in Burlington NC ---(0)IIIIII(0)--- |
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(WT)302 in willys
Geno Hacker
I have a 49 Willys pickup with a Ford 302 in it. I have heard that you can
put 351 heads on it for more power. I know this might seem off subject but I was wondering if anyone knows how this will afect the low end performance. Any thoughts...comments? Thanks Geno Hacker - Arizona 49 4x4 pu _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit |
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Re: How do you remove the OD
In a message dated 6/19/99 7:12:13 PM Central Daylight Time,
rggray@... writes: << Rick, Is this a contest? To remove the OD unit from the transfer you must remove the cover on the back of the OD unit, remove the cotter key, remove the nut. After doing this, if the other five bolt are that mount the unit to the transfer have been removed. the unit will slide back off the shaft.... Rick/cc >> Ok Rick, I'm puzzled by this. What is holding that shaft to the planetary gear assembly? I was of the impression that the planetary gear bolted onto the tranny main shaft in place of the output gear and that the OD slid into the planetary gear assembly. The installation instructions never mention installation of the second cover or the nut and cotter pin so I assumed that these were only removed for rebuilding the OD. When looking at the IPB I can't find anything that looks like it would hold the shaft in the planetary gear assembly. Rick S (TX) |
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Re: How do you remove the OD
MVP,
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I'm going to try this tomorrow and see what happens. Thanks. In a message dated 6/19/99 8:08:45 PM Central Daylight Time,
therbfrm@... writes: << Rick: My 1986 Warn OD came w/ a tag attached to the shift selector on the OD that read that the OD should be installed w/ the OD disengaged (rod pushed all the way in on the OD unit). I would assume the same is true for the removal. You might have to pull and twist the unit at the same time after you have removed the 5 bolts that mate the transfer case and OD unit to get the unit removed. Be careful to pull straight back and twist so you don't bend the oil supply tube. Then you just remove the the nut and retaining clip to remove the planetary gear assembly from the T-90 output shaft. >> |
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Re: How do you remove the OD
Ross,
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Everything moves and operates as advertised, so I don't thing it's frozen (good thought though). We just need to get the thing off of there so we can pull the planetary gear and separate the T-case from the tranny. I'm not sure we will rebuild the OD. Let's just suppose for a moment that we get the OD off. The next thing we want to do is disassemble the T-case and try to mix its parts together with some parts from a Model 20 to make one good one. Let me explain in a little more detail 1. We have a Model 20 with 26 teeth that has perfect gears and has a 1 1/4" intermediate shaft. 2. We have a Model 18 that also has perfect gears but has a 1 1/8" intermediate shaft. From what I have been told the Model 20 and Model 18 cases are interchangeable. So we want to build the 1 1/4" model 20 case as a model 18. My question is will the intermediate shaft and gear from the model 20 work in this case with the model 18 gears. It looks like it will work but I was hoping that this wasn't unbroken ground here on Willys Tech. If we can make all of this work, we will have a 1 1/4" model 18 that will work with the 26 tooth OD and I will get a spare 29 tooth out to the deal for my truck. If we can sort all of this out we should have a t-case rebuilding day at my house in a few weeks and maybe even a rebuild guide written. I'm getting closer to making that Missouri trip happen every day. :-) Rick S (TX) In a message dated 6/19/99 9:13:07 PM Central Daylight Time,
rc2ls@... writes: << I very recently went through the same problem. First, get yourself a picture of the parts break down. If you have an old AA catalog there's one in it. What I discovered is that if it has been sitting then the planetary gears are froze up. Also the shaft may be stuck in the housing. The shaft is supposed to slide out. That is if you have removed all the retainers. Degrease the heck out of it so you can see everything. I wound up having to tap on the spacer that is behind the nut to get the shaft out. I'll have to go look at it to remember exactly how it all came out. Remember the brass hammer? Use a brass drift pin. Remember what Merl says? "Never beat on the threaded end of anything". >> |
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Re: Wonka
bmagee
SHES ALIVE SHES ALIVE
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after sitting 27 years she has 40 lbs oil pressure and purrs like a kitten let the WONKA on the road! -----Original Message-----
From: bmagee <puttpirate@...> To: WillysTech@... <WillysTech@...> Date: Saturday, June 19, 1999 10:28 AM Subject: Re: [WT] Wonka From: "bmagee" <puttpirate@...>ill sendfor taken27 years and had a tree growing between the bumper and grill! It has dieme two years of jaw'n with the original owner to have him part with her,allthe locks work, the keys etc all chrome is on her, i had to air one tirehim, orderedhard, pushed the starter button and she turns over clean ( actually had all the new plugs points ect from napa and plan on starten her thisin |
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Re: How do you remove the OD
Kendal Jackson
Rick,
If you promise to let me have the OD I will make a deal with the devil to get it off for you ;-) (just kidding....really) At 01:38 PM 6/19/99 EDT, you wrote: From: Rick48CJ2A@...Kendal Jackson --It might look like I'm doing nothing, but at the cellular level I'm really quite busy-- |
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